Flash
Williams, 1979The top flipper is weak and wont hold while button is pushed. The bottom flipper on the same button works fine. I just replaced the coil (SFL-20-300/30-800DC) with a brand new one and it's doing the same thing. I dont know if this matters but it has a Rottendog MPU327 board in it.
That picture looks different from mine. However, I found the switch on mine and it looks like a contact may have dropped off of one of the copper strips. There is actually a small hole in the strip where I believe a contact should go. I'm confused as to the best way to fix this. Maybe with a large drop of solder?
P1010093.JPG
P1010095.JPG
P1010094.JPGYes, the pix I'm showing are with upgraded mechs but the switching is the same.
Your switch that activates the upper flipper is broken and needs to be replaced. Steve Young sells the switch. You should probably just rebuild all the mechs including the EOS switches.
viperrwk
Sorry - should have been more explicit. From the page:
EOS Form A Switch
If your game has more than two flippers, the Upper Flippers are probably powered by a EOS FORM A Switch. Look at your game and see if your lower flippers have a stacked switch like A-8160.The stacked switch is a sandwich of the DE-180-5018+ EOS switch listed above and this EOS FORM A Switch SW-1A-183.
The SW-1A-183 is a high current switch like the DE-180-5018+.
The Flash manual calls it SW-2010-A. Marco sells this switch for $13.95.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-2010A
Steve Young calls this switch A-8160 (http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/wll-a8160.jpg) which is functionally the same as SW-2010-A. You get this switch from Steve by buying the DE-180-5018+ (pair of two for $5.74 - http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/de-180-5018+.jpg) and the SW-1A-183+ ($3.10 - http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/wll-sw1a-183+.jpg). The switch stack combination works out to be $5.97 from Steve (+ the cost of an extra EOS switch for a total of $8.84). He gives you the flexibility of buying the two switches separately, and charges you less money for the whole thing.
viperrwk
If I understand it correctly, when the flipper engages, the flipper crank will turn and hit the next to shortest metal blade on the double EOS switch causing the contact points on the shortest blades to open and causing the contact points on the longest blades to close.
Edit: I adjusted it that way and its now working fine.
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Jacksonville, MD
