Twin Falls, ID
Just picked up a Tommy that needs a good shop job.
Does anyone have a scan of the plastic that goes around the Union Jack VUK.
I would really like to try my hand at making that new plastic. It's pretty trashed.
Many thanks!
(Topic ID: 34603)
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The Who's Tommy Pinball Wizard
Data East, 1994
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Adelaide
I've done both - made my own and also got a nice one from pinball universe. The new one will crack immediately if you don't trim it down to add some clearance. on the attached picture, you need to widen out the inside an 1/8" or so. See where I very quickly scribbled green on the 2nd attached picture. The ball coming up through the VUK hits here and cracks it. Hits from a ball off the flipper are much less of a problem as long as the correct post sleeves are used. if you're worried about those you can add large washers for protection there.
This scan came from a guy on RGP, If they let me know I'll attribute it, just can't remember their handle right off.
this thread tells how I made my own quick and dirty replacement with clear acrylic and the art printed on photo paper:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121795.0.html
Thanks for the artwork TopJimmy and thank you for the offer Capt.
I think this will work fine. Will probably make a pattern of the plastic as you did and route several for spares.
Yours looked good Top but I think I'll try my hand at some water slide that may have a little more translucency, (if there's even a lamp under this plastic). I'll try your other suggestions to help minimize the possibility of breakage.
Just got this Tommy and haven't even plugged it in. Haven't even brought it home, it's sitting in my office at work. Don't have room at home until I move something out.
This Tommy Has some burnt wiring (GI I think) and some other minor issues. I can't wait to get it home so I can work on it.
In the mean time I'll pull this plastic, make a new one and when I clear the playfield to shop it the new plastic will be ready to go on.
Thanks for your help.
Mike
as long as it has the blinders and they work, everything else is workable. Even if the blinders don't work, but all the pieces are there, your good to go.
I think I lucked out getting Tommy with working blinders. Fully operational but do need adjustment.
( just to clarify, played a game at the previous owner's, have not plugged it in since I've owned it)
I probably would have passed on the purchase if the blinders had been removed.
I've never owned a Tommy with missing blinders, but seems everyone else runs into it. I don't understand why people would pull them out in the first place? if they start screwing up, unplug the little board and be done with it. WTF?
The thing I like about the one that Pinball Centre sells is that it combines two plastics into one. When installed, I think it looks quite a bit better than the two separate plastics that originally came on the game.
To the OP,
If you're interested, I think I have an original NOS one lying around. You can have it for the cost of shipping.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:I don't understand why people would pull them out in the first place? if they start screwing up, unplug the little board and be done with it. WTF?
I've never understood this either.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:I've never owned a Tommy with missing blinders, but seems everyone else runs into it. I don't understand why people would pull them out in the first place? if they start screwing up, unplug the little board and be done with it. WTF?
Pinball life now sells a repro board for the blinders so definitely no need to pull them.
yea, but they pull the whole unit, which doesn't make any sense. Most people that don't have blinders, don't have the fins.
There are no lights under this plastic so the opaque paper really doesn't matter, but waterslides will make a nicer end product for sure. I don't think you can print white on a waterslide so you may have to put paper underneath it to get the white areas anyway.
Mstire: On your burned GL - look out for those wires to be cooked for the first inch or so of their length. I redid the connectors keeping as much wire as possible, and the first time I plugged it in the wires were brittle and broke off the back of the connector. I cut another inch off and got back to good wire. There was plenty of length in the harness overall to do this. I had some traces on the connector that looked dodgy so I jumpered over to the relay pins with some 18 ga hookup wire on the back of the board. Seems to run cooler now.
Resolution wise the scan above is sufficient. I printed it on my nothing special kodak inkjet and it is indistinguishable from the original plastics in terms of detail and resolution. the size is dead nuts as well. I had an original plastic to compare to.
This is the part I bought as a replacement - better deal if you're stateside. Good service, good price. I also got their Tommy specific cab touch up paint which I haven't tried yet.
http://www.pinballuniverse.com/tommyparts2.htm
Gweempose: Do you have a pic of the two separate VUK plastics? I haven't seen that before.
TopJimmy, I read your post on the link you provided about the GI lights. It's helpful to know ahead of time about the brittle wires. I won't be be able to pull the power supply out for a while. It looks like it's already been messed with. If the traces are messed up I'll consider just getting a new power supply and replace all the questionable connectors.
Gweempose was generous enough to offer his spare plastic to me.
Quoted from gweempose:If you're interested, I think I have an original NOS one lying around.
I'm still going to follow through with making some spares just for the challenge and someone else might need one some day. I can return the favor.
I think I would make a would pattern like you did. Rough cut several plastic pieces, double stick tape them together with the wood pattern and route them to size. From there I should be able to flame polish the edges.
Since my laser printer does not print white why not print this on the clear water slide in reverse and put it on the backside of the plastic? Then spray white over the top of that.
Mike
Quoted from TopJimmyCooks:Do you have a pic of the two separate VUK plastics? I haven't seen that before.
This is the way the game came from the factory. There is the VUK plastic, and then a small yellow plastic that mounts adjacent to it. Here are a couple pics I grabbed off HEP's site:
Tommy_VUK_plastic_#1.jpg Tommy_VUK_plastic_#2.jpg
The reproduction plastic that Pinball Centre sells combines both of these into a single piece. I personally think it looks much better this way:
Ok, I've got the two piece as well. The replacement from that pinball universe link is the two piece style also. The single piece version is a nice mod.
Mstire - Spraying white over the backside once the decal is on is a good way to go. same idea as screen printing then. Good idea.
because they probably had another mounting post there, or another piece was bolted on top of it to maybe stop stuck balls.
Refering to the extra hole.....
Quoted from CaptainNeo:because they probably had another mounting post there, or another piece was bolted on top of it to maybe stop stuck balls.
Every picture I've looked at has that hole with nothing in it.
Gweempose, great shot of that plastic. If I make this plastic I think I'd like to see a little radius on that sharp inside corner. I think it would reduce likelihood of breakage at that point. Not to mention a router bit is not going to make that sharp a corner.
Mine looks like it has the clear plastic protector but the broken plastic may be glued on top of it pretty much rendering that one useless..
Mike
i'm saying early in setup, they may have had a plan for it, but the art files and cutters, left it in. I like the one solid piece better as well. I may install the one I have into mine.
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