add me to the fully populated board list please.
(Topic ID: 135409)
Linked Games
Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
1 month later
3 weeks later
Quoted from CraigC:You have the wrong post. Should be a metal sleeve post without rubber. I never have issues and my game is dead nuts level and at 6.5
20151105_192121.jpg
This is the correct post as you have it in the picture no rubber on it. My game is HUO and its exactly the same. The mini post with the rubber is not factory.
Ball gets trapped to the left of the trunk:
This was an issue early on.
The correct fix as per the factory hand out was to remove the screw from the T-nut next to the bare post.
Then add a new hollow stainless post through the T-nut from the top with a long screw and washer.
Then apply a nut on the end of the new longer post screw under the PF.
You can then put a rubber on the new post as it should look similar the existing one under the ramp edge.
If you get a hollow post with a notch for a rubber it will absorb most of the shocks and not bend.
You have to use a metal post, as a screw with a rubber sleeve, will not last under repeated hits from the ball.
If I get a chance Ill upload a photo if needed or you can email me.
Quoted from EvanDickson:I've never once had a ball jam between trunk and post. But I'm seeing a lot of people post about this. My machine has a mod, I don't know who put it in or when. But it is a metal guide rail around the posts. No ball jams ever. I'll take a pic and post it later.
The ball can get past the post under the ramp during an aggressive game.
The trunk turns which leaves a tiny amount of space between the post and trunk.
If a ball hits exactly this area at exactly the right time, the trunk will actually help move the ball into the area and it will not come out even if the trunk moves back and forth.
One would think that this would be a rare occurrence, as it would have to be an exact precision event.
I have had it happen quite a few times, and have seen balls trapped there on route when the games were in the field.
I have seen the wire mod, it indeed fixes this problem. So does the added post. The wire looks cooler though.
I thought the added post would change the dynamics of the game and get more bounces straight down the drain, but this is not the case on my game at least. It plays much the same and no more ball traps, and it was a cheap 10 min fix.
5 months later
Quoted from jsa:Asking this here, because of all the trunk experts: Can anyone think of a reason why, when lock is lit, the a ball sent into the trunk via the center loop might not register as a locked ball? This is an intermittent issue, as if I try again, it locks the ball. Either way, it just pops back out the trap door. Note that the trunk registers hits for illusions/etc. without any issue consistently.
Dirty/failed switch or opto.
4 months later
Quoted from dudah:Have a problem with mine. Under the trunk test the game is reporting a trunk error. In trunk test, trunk barely moves.
Looking under the game, the motor is stuck powered on trying to go counter clockwise (perspective from the underside of the playfield). I unplug the motor cable from the Leon board and rotate it with my hand. All optos register in switch test and trunk test. Trunk eddy registers. Opto interruptor set screw is in the indentation in the trunk post which aligns with the trunk hole at the top. As soon as I plug the motor in it tries to go CCW and never stops on any opto.
No matter what I do, whenever I plug the trunk motor in, it rotates counter clockwise. I plug the motor directly into the motor controller board and it still wants to rotate CCW. The LED on the motor controller board is always on. Try rotating the interruptor to each opto to see if it will stop and no dice. As soon as I plug the motor board into the Leon board, I hear the relay click and the red one LEDgoes on for a split second then turns off and the green LED stays lit. Never had this issue before. Any ideas?
Based on the latter, perhaps it's a bad motor controller? I noticed there was a tiny scratch at the top of the 14 pin IC, but nothing that should affect it. And again, before I put in the Leon board, had zero trunk issues.
Put the old board back in and see if the problem persists? Check the condition of all/any IDC connectors.
3 months later
Quoted from NeilMcRae:anyone heard from Ingo- want to order one of the boards, anyone got an email for him?
many thanks & happy new year.
Neil.
see post 580 above in this thread.
1 year later
Quoted from UltraPeepi:The board was not damaged. F116 blew. After replacing the fuse, everything works fine. I am definitely going to address this. I am not convinced that this won't cause a more significant problem if it happens again.
Just something for everyone to be aware of.
I am going to put two screws, and a band to keep the ball in the subway. I'll take a picture when I have it installed.
It's kind of a hack, but that ball isn't coming back out of that subway any more.
I can see how the cut-out for the trunk eddy sensor can allow the ball to escape from the subway.
What about installing a piece of acrylic over the eddy sensor cutout in a way as to keep the ball from escaping?
A small piece would do it. and maybe less of a hack.
6 months later
8 months later
Quoted from harryhoudini:For someone just joining this thread with a TOM that works can you explain all of the various boards and items in this thread?
From what I understand, Ingo's board replaces the original trunk control board that manages the movement of the trunk?
I saw the auto eddy boards (which I think work for the outlanes and trunk) here: http://tanglestech.com/Smart-Eddy-Board--a-re-designed-“Eddy”-proximity-detector-for-Theatre-of-Magic-Scared-Stiff-Road-Show-and-STTNG_p_12.html
Not sure if this is something that would also be needed: http://tanglestech.com/DC-Motor-Control-Board--Replaces-A-16120_p_17.html
It sounds like if my eddy boards start having problems with the pots those can just be replaced. Or I can go with the auto eddy board posted above. If the trunk has problems moving then the Ingo board would be used for that.
I want to get any parts which may be hard to come by later so I'm considering ordering one of the Ingo boards just to do that. I also have the replace the old plastic interrupter (I have the metal one) so maybe swapping out this board is good at the same time?
Thoughts on what to get (and hold on to just in case) and anything to do now (even if the game is working properly)?
I also have the updated ROM that does the outlane save (when the magnet fails to grab the ball), is that the same code version we are talking about that handles the door open/close reset trunk for tournament play?
You absolutely want the auto-eddy boards for the outlanes and the trunk.
They respond faster and need no adjustment ever.
The replacement trunk opto board has to do with a problem of the trunk malfuntioning if it is hit while its running.
This happens a lot during multiballs.
You get a trunk error that once cleared goes back to normal
The trunk will just stop. and not operate again until its manually turned and the game power cycled.
This is especially annoying with games on location, the trunk is always dead.
The trunk logic is enhanced to fix several problems with the unit.
The Ingo board is also more robust and quicker responding, with more accurate optics.
1 year later
1 month later
Quoted from JustEverett:Nevermind on the eddy board compatibility. I just found in the manual, and they have it listed as a replacement for both parts.
Its supposed to be faster responding with a little bit better accuracy than the pinbits.
I have the pinbits sets, I havent tested the AU one yet.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Manteca, CA
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballinreno.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
