(Topic ID: 135409)

TOM Trunk Error - Leon's Fix. NOW AVAILABLE, SEE POST #225

By EvanDickson

8 years ago


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  • 807 posts
  • 215 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by gizmo33
  • Topic is favorited by 68 Pinsiders

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18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #128 Schematics Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #131 Prototype Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #133 Animated installation guide for prototype Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #145 Prototype photos & video Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #146 Trunk opto board prototype Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #210 PCB layouts Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #225 Opto board replacements, pricing, and shipping info Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #242 Opto Board PCBs Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #359 Photos of populated boards Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)

Post #372 Photo of installed board Posted by german-pinball (8 years ago)


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#118 8 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

If someone could ask the pinduino people, what signals should be leaded out - there are not many here, motor cw, Motor ccw, Row, Column. I never played with the pinduino.
Something like this??
additional outputs.JPG

I'm one of the pinduino guys (and on the order list for this board -- very nice work!)

The pinduino supports two basic designs for controlling LEDs:
1. Addressable LEDs (DIN, +5V, GND)
2. RBG LEDs (+12V, R, G, B) Note: RGB are just connections to GND.

For the former, you'll need a microcontroller (Arduino) to send data to the addressable leds; for the latter, some way to control ground (we just TIP122 transistors that are controlled by an Arduino.

For your setup, you may just want to have a +5V (or +12V) and a GND that is controlled by a transistor that is triggered when the motor moves. (Or two, for when the motor moves CW or CCW).

Overall, it adds a bit of complexity to your design and I'm not sure if it is worth it. Someone could easily just tap the motor power and hook up an LED. Or intercept the the eddy sensor switch using the SwitchShield by: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/always-wanted-to-build-your-own-pinball-lightmod#post-1981363

Then again, the integration would be nice too.

#124 8 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

Thanks for explaining that.
I could lead out the signals from the motor and from the eddy-sensor switch to connectors if desired. These signals must be processed anyway by pinduino and/or pinlightshield and/or switchshield.
As lyonsden explained, if your want to "tap" the eddy-switch, you have to grab the signal there anyway, so an extra connector would only give the possibility to "tap" the signal easier.
Now to the motor signal. These signals also had to be processed anyway by pinduino and/or pinlightshield and/or switchshield. So it makes much more sense, to tap the motor power. For this, it would make sense, to add an extra connector, where you can connect your own built LED-cable, that lights depending on the direction of the motor. This cable is pretty easy to build.
But pics say more than words:
LEON TOM light effects.JPG
So what do you all think?

That's an excellent idea. Just leave a spot where someone could easily add a header to tap into the signal.

#127 8 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

What connectors should be best for that? I would prefer these ones (NOT headers). pitch is US-standard 200mil (5,08mm):
http://www.reichelt.de/RIA-Stecksystem/AKL-057-02/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=5754&ARTICLE=36615&SEARCH=akl%20057-02&OFFSET=16&WKID=0&;
Has the advantage, if you want to build your own cable for cw/ccw-LEDs, you do not need to crimp and do not need an additional housing, only a bit wire, 2 LEDs, a resistor and soldering iron.
Same for the row + column sigal fromm eddy-switch.
Or I will only make the holes in the PCB - universal - in pitch of 200mil and 100mil so that you can use my 2-pole terminal or a standard Molex-header.
What do you think?

I'd just have standard holes to let someone attach what they want (standard header, your top choice, or solder wires to the board). I don't know how many people would use it, but I'd go for the simpler build with a lower BOM cost.

#130 8 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

By the way, here is the updated schematics (with coloured wires), so that we can see how it all works together:

Looks great!

#137 8 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

and....shaker motor trigger.....
-c

Now that is an interesting idea!

2 months later
#234 8 years ago

Thanks Ingo!

I just placed my order and looking forward to getting it. Double thanks for all the work in designing the boards and putting the payment down for manufacturing. It is a serious outlay of cash for the benefit of the pinball community.

3 weeks later
#323 8 years ago

Looking great! Do you happen to know when you might be shipping the kits (no rush)?

#327 8 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

As fast as possible, the first one will go out in 1 week and the last ones in about 2 weeks. I will give my best!!!!

Great to hear! Thanks for all you've done to make this happen.

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