Manchester, MI
+1, also interested. I'll be watching this with interest.
(Topic ID: 135409)
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Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995
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2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from german-pinball:By the way - there is NO german cheat-software built in our Leon-board - haha
http://www.nytimes.com/2015/09/19/business/volkswagen-is-ordered-to-recall-nearly-500000-vehicles-over-emissions-software.html?_r=0
I'm still wrapping my head around this one. That being said, we all love easter eggs, so don't hold back if you can figure out how to put one in. 
1 week later
Quoted from EvanDickson:He's referring to the Volkswagen scandal, where they built cheats into the emissions tests.
Yes, I was trying for humor but completely failed.
3 weeks later
Quoted from german-pinball:I could still need a bit of help.
Could please someone do some measurements with a tool as seen in the pic below (sorry, do not know the word for this tool in english) and measure the diameter of the opto-interruptor-wheel and the thickness of the material; is there a difference between an aluminium interruptor or a plastic interruptor?
Second, what is the exact diameter of the screw shown in pic2.
Many thanks in advance!!!!!!
The word you're looking for is a caliper. Unfortunately, I don't have one. Anyone else? They're pretty cheap ($15) so I could grab one if no one else has one handy.
Quoted from german-pinball:By the way:
Production will start in about 3-4 days
Congratulations, Ingo. This is amazing, the power of community and crowdsourcing. Can't wait to try out the boards in my ToM.
2 weeks later
Quoted from german-pinball:I think, as the final version, I will take "version2" (cut the signal line), because it´s the bit "cleaner" design and we have full compabilty with the original eddy board and also with the super pinbits auto-eddy-board.
Ingo, just to clarify, did you end up making this change to cut the signal line vs. power?
3 weeks later
Quoted from german-pinball:Naturally NOT, all necessary cable are sent with the boards. Not everybody has the proper tool, to press the wires into the connector. I use high quality connectors from ITW-PANCON. One side of the cables has a protection cap, this side of the cables has to be put in the connectors on the Leon-Board, so anybody has to care, what cable has to be put where.
That's beautiful, Ingo. Thank you for including the cables. You're a professional operation, indeed.
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from lyzanxia:My package just arrived. Installed it and worked perfectly!! Thanks Ingo!
Fantastic!
1 week later
Ingo, just received my boards today and couldn't wait to install it on my own machine. It's working exactly as it should. Thanks for building this and putting so much heart and soul into it!
Also, thanks to the rest of the community here who contributed, it's really a testament to what a community can do.
Leon, RIP man. Wish you could see this.
1 week later
Quoted from canea:To install the new opto board or the combo board, you need to take the plastic trunk off from the top of playfield and undo the 4 wires inside the trunk (not a clean way to do this unless you're super handy with molex extracters - it's easiest just to cut them and put them back together with electrical tape since you'll be cursing yourself the next time you're in there if you put them back together in a more secure fashion).
My only comment here is that you can also do the same thing on the other side of the wire, eliminating the need to remove the trunk. In my case, I used a molex pin extractor to push the pins out of the two molex connectors on the wiring coming out of the bottom of the trunk shaft, pulled the opto interruptor disk off (after loosening the allen screw) and then removed/replaced the opto board. I then pushed the pins back into the molex connectors and everything was clean. I'm not particularly handy with a molex extractor, it's just a narrow cylinder that you use to push the pin out, not too difficult. You could do it with a small micro screwdriver in a pinch.
Quoted from nickbuol:I know it is a 5 minute fix, but I also want to take the trunk gear box out and clean/regrease the gears while I am at it.
Ah, the United States Postal Service. Not exactly fantastic with logistics, though lately they've been better out here in California. Stiff competition.
I recommend using carb cleaner to help with the removal of the old grease. I washed all the parts/gears thoroughly then applied Super Lube.
1 month later
Indeed, RIP Leon. That guy is a legend! I have one of his custom chips, for Atari pinball machines, that I found in an envelope wedged underneath my ToM. I learned about him trying to figure out the origin of the chip. We owe him a ton!
Also, excellent work Ingo. The boards are beautiful!
2 weeks later
Quoted from ski1game2:Need to buy a "molex pin extraction tool". Anyone know what size is needed? When I called my local electronics supply, they said they had them but needed to know the size.
I got this one:
2 weeks later
Asking this here, because of all the trunk experts: Can anyone think of a reason why, when lock is lit, the a ball sent into the trunk via the center loop might not register as a locked ball? This is an intermittent issue, as if I try again, it locks the ball. Either way, it just pops back out the trap door. Note that the trunk registers hits for illusions/etc. without any issue consistently.
7 months later
I just donated a set to Free Gold Watch in San Francisco. They added a ToM and weren't using it in tournaments because of the trunk issues. I should have anticipated the cracked opto interrupter, but this will work for now. Once again, thanks 
german-pinball for the excellent work.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Radius118:Where to order one of these? I checked the usual suspects and came up empty.. Unless I missed it! :/
@german-pinball's board you order directly from him. If you're asking about the aluminum opto interrupter, you can get it from a number of places:
3 weeks later
Quoted from nightsearcher:Anyone remember where in this thread there was talk about Ingo's TZ clock board
Not sure, but:
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html
1 week later
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Just received mine and the tester. Everything worked great. Now to deal with the four wires that need to come out... for some reason mine had a smaller molex connector than the extractor tool everybody recommended. Debating on picking up yet another tool vs. just snipping the wires and adding some heat shrink.
I've found that a very small screwdriver can press in the metal tabs on each pin. Then you can slide it out. This isn't easy, but it works. Then, before putting them back, very slightly bend those tabs back out again so they will snap back into the connector.
8 months later
5 months later
Quoted from soren:One last comment on the mod. The rule changes are not that great, honestly.
I think we appreciate any work that's done to address issues on our games this long after their company is gone. I triggered the 1.4H bug that rebooted the game during a multiball on my highest score I ever had, so for the rest of us, bugs like that might be more useful than a tournament ROM, just sayin'... 
2 years later
Quoted from spikedbat:I’m experiencing the trunk issues with my TOM.
Just stops turning after so long until I restart the pin.
Are the fix boards still available??
The board here comes in two flavors, one that replaces the whole board and one that just is an add-on to fix some of the behavior. If your trunk is experiencing problems like that, it could be due to the cylinder/sensor being out of alignment or getting loose or cracked, or an opto-switch on the board going bad or dirty. This originally was a black circular piece that trips these sensors as it turns.
Check that out and fully understand what's wrong. Obviously you can replace the board but if the problem is mechanical it won't necessarily help. The board kicks ass though.
Quoted from spikedbat:I don’t believe I have mechanical issues. Works fine. Just after so long and on multiplayer games it stops turning.
I’m guess I probably just need the ad on but I’d consider both. How do I find them?? Anybody still selling the board fixes?
Here:
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