Charlottetown, PE
I'd like to do this, but the instructions are a little sparse. There's no part number for the relay or the little bread board he uses, so I'm not sure what they are. Anyone done this and have more detailed instruction?
(Topic ID: 135409)
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Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995
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Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:What Leon writes is right, I'v had a few theatre's with this behaviour.
Though the pinbits auto eddy boards seem to solve it often too.
It says that's for outlanes, but does not work on the trunk.
I figured out the answer to my original question though. I can zoom in on his picture in the article, and was able to pick the part number for the relay off the part. I ordered a 2 pack of the relay for 8 bucks all in on ebay. And then I ordered a small pack of bread boards, so I should be able to build this thing (actually, 2 of them) for 15 bucks all in. 
Which is awesome, it bugs me when the trunk gets weird.
2 weeks later
Hey, this thread really took off since I thought it was resolved. A specific board, that's awesome, German-Pinball. And I love that the required parts are labelled on the board! Any idea on the cost of the product?
Thanks,
Evan
Awesome, sign me up for one too, then. I'll keep the parts I have already ordered as spares.
Thanks,
Evan
Quoted from bstyles:Don't have problems with my ToM now, but if you all are telling me there is a common problem, then perhaps it's only a matter of time.
In that case, I'll take one just to keep as a spare, since ToM won't be leaving my lineup anytime in the foreseeable future..
Quoted from german-pinball:As there are so many interests, I have decided, to finally let produce professional boards. But at first, I will etch this weekend the prototype and send it to "canea" for testing.
The more boards I let produce, the lower the costs for each pcb:
10 pieces / 12,00 USD/each
20 pieces / 6,00 USD/each
30 pieces / 5,50 USD/each
50 pieces / 3,60 USD/each
The rest are the molex connectors, the relay and 1m=42,5inches wire.
Depending on how much pcbs I let produce, I think, the price for ALL parts will be about 12-18 USD.
As far as I see, we now have 10 intersted people - 20 would be good, then the price for each pcb is the half compared to 10.
If I ship the spare board only, you should take yourself care about to get the parts with, but have extra shipping costs from the parts distributor or so. Best would be, I get all parts, so the set is complete and I ship as a DIY-project or complete assembeld, as desired.
- Ingo
PS.:
What is with the control-LEDs? Are these desired??
How thick are the wires, AWG20 ????
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from jsa:I'm still wrapping my head around this one. That being said, we all love easter eggs, so don't hold back if you can figure out how to put one in.
He's referring to the Volkswagen scandal, where they built cheats into the emissions tests.
3 weeks later
Quoted from german-pinball:You are in the list ... before I do not tell it is not to late ... the boards are already on the way to the US (canea) for testing ....
Any feedback yet?
3 weeks later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ball gets trapped to the left of the trunk:
...
I've never once had a ball jam between trunk and post. But I'm seeing a lot of people post about this. My machine has a mod, I don't know who put it in or when. But it is a metal guide rail around the posts. No ball jams ever. I'll take a pic and post it later.
1 month later
To anyone who has already installed this, to remove the existing board, is it just a matter of removing the 4 lock nuts, and loosening the set screw on the trunk axle?
2 months later
Finally got my molex pin removal tool and installed this board. The instructions in post #458 were excellent! Thanks Ingo!
Quoted from Goalie:So I just installed mine and now the trunk doesn't sense any hits at all. ?
Did you double check all the connections per the instructions?
Also, is the opto calibrated? Mine would never stay calibrated until I glued the dial after setting it (probably not good advice).
Look at rhe board near the trunk opto, with a little dial that can be turned with a small Phillips screwdriver, turn it one way until the red light comes on, and then turn it the other way until the red light *just barely* turns off.
Quoted from Goalie:I got it figured out. It works now, not seeing any more issues. Thanks
What was happening?
1 month later
Quoted from littlecammi:... But since you have to pass the wires through everything, might as well bulletproof the trunk by replacing the gearbox (available with oversized motor from Pinball Resource) and opto interrupter (aluminum interrupter available from Marco) at the same time...
Jeebus. You'd have to have pretty deep pockets to spend $325 on parts that don't need replacing.
5 months later
Quoted from nibre:I have installed the "Trunk opto-board with Leon integrated" but occasionally the trunk gets stuck in a position between two correct positions (see image). The trunk test works as it should. Any suggestion what to do?
Is your opto interrupter ring damaged / cracked or is it loose? I could see this causing issues with trunk position.
1 year later
Hmm, I've had balls bounce out before, but not since installing my trunk board. Did the short kill your board, or was it ok after removing the ball?
3 weeks later
Has anyone run a trunk test with Ingo's board in place? I'm trying to troubleshoot some gremlins in my TOM, which include the trunk occasionally going non-responsive to hits until I restart the machine. I ran a trunk test and while the trunk moves and stops perfectly, it's not reporting switches or position correctly. I'm wondering if this is just a result of the special board, or if it's somehow a wierd clue to my pin misbehaving.
Quoted from german-pinball:Not normal.
Check your connection to the board.
Check, if your 12V digital are ok.
12V is reading 14.4V, which I think is ok. I think the trunk test is a red herring. After fiddling with it for a bit, I think the trunk registers the position, then overshoots by about 1mm, and the rest of the software is too slow to react to this so I never see results on the DMD. If I rotate the interupter with my finger back that 1mm, I see the registration on the test. I would bet I have an aging connector(s) at the MPU / driver board level affects the eddy sensor and trunk hit sensor.
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