Following the rebirth of this board
Ingo and zaza, both great engineers and always wonderful graphics!
Respect gentlemen
Following the rebirth of this board
Ingo and zaza, both great engineers and always wonderful graphics!
Respect gentlemen
Quoted from german-pinball:The manual is very misleading here:
Yes, the wire colors assume it is 20V + GND but it is motor drive as we know
Quoted from german-pinball:I would prefer, to connect them as shown in post #90, but there are many ways, to connect the LEDs:
I have an unfounded preference for the "DUO LED 2 Pin" choice, maybe because the LEDs are directly on the motordrive and share one resistor.
duo led.jpg
Quoted from Thor-NL:Respect gentlemen
thanks !
Quoted from zaza:Yes, the wire colors assume it is 20V + GND but it is motor drive as we know
I have an unfounded preference for the "DUO LED 2 Pin" choice, maybe because the LEDs are directly on the motordrive and share one resistor.
duo led.jpgthanks !
Thanks for prooving ... I think, in the final version I will go with the Duo-LED.
This is amazing. thank you so much for the work on this!
I find myself extra careful on that third trunk hit, so much so I try to catch the ball and wait it out for the spin. It doesn't do it every time, but I don't want to jeopardize a good game (I have so few) with a mistake. This update/upgrade is so needed and so very appreciated!
Quoted from german-pinball:Here is the man, who alone has to get all honor - LEON from belgium (RIP) - the best pinball-expert ever and one of the nicest persons I ever knew.
http://www.flippers.be/leon_borre.html
I did not know he passed away....huge loss.
Quoted from wimpinball:I'll take 5 pieces .
Add me also on the list please .
Quoted from MSN22:I will take one please
From now on, I will update the list in post #93.
Here's a thought...
What about adding a couple connectors that could have some form of lighting attached in the future?
Perhaps someone whats to hook up a LED spotlight or strobe that would illuminate or flash when the trunk is rotating or when the eddy sense a hit?
Nice to have a 'mod' that fixes improper behavior ... even better if the mod also offers cool enhanced effects for those that chose to implement them in the future.
I think it could be pretty cool to mound a strobe/flasher beneath the playfield shining into the weldment beneath the trunk that flashes when the trunk is rotating...
-Brian
Quoted from bstyles:Here's a thought...
What about adding a couple connectors that could have some form of lighting attached in the future?
Perhaps someone whats to hook up a LED spotlight or strobe that would illuminate or flash when the trunk is rotating or when the eddy sense a hit?
Nice to have a 'mod' that fixes improper behavior ... even better if the mod also offers cool enhanced effects for those that chose to implement them in the future.
I think it could be pretty cool to mound a strobe/flasher beneath the playfield shining into the weldment beneath the trunk that flashes when the trunk is rotating...
-Brian
Nice Idea similar to the Bigfoot spotlight Mod on WH20 ! Well guys I know you have been doing a lot of work on the board so far with many updated changes .What do you say to adding a mod to it?
Quoted from bstyles:Here's a thought...
What about adding a couple connectors that could have some form of lighting attached in the future?
Perhaps someone whats to hook up a LED spotlight or strobe that would illuminate or flash when the trunk is rotating or when the eddy sense a hit?
Nice to have a 'mod' that fixes improper behavior ... even better if the mod also offers cool enhanced effects for those that chose to implement them in the future.
I think it could be pretty cool to mound a strobe/flasher beneath the playfield shining into the weldment beneath the trunk that flashes when the trunk is rotating...
-Brian
If someone could ask the pinduino people, what signals should be leaded out - there are not many here, motor cw, Motor ccw, Row, Column. I never played with the pinduino.
Something like this??
Quoted from bstyles:Here's a thought...
What about adding a couple connectors that could have some form of lighting attached in the future?
Perhaps someone whats to hook up a LED spotlight or strobe that would illuminate or flash when the trunk is rotating or when the eddy sense a hit?
Nice to have a 'mod' that fixes improper behavior ... even better if the mod also offers cool enhanced effects for those that chose to implement them in the future.
I think it could be pretty cool to mound a strobe/flasher beneath the playfield shining into the weldment beneath the trunk that flashes when the trunk is rotating...
-Brian
or run a shaker motor?
-c
Quoted from german-pinball:If someone could ask the pinduino people, what signals should be leaded out - there are not many here, motor cw, Motor ccw, Row, Column. I never played with the pinduino.
Something like this??
additional outputs.JPG
I'm one of the pinduino guys (and on the order list for this board -- very nice work!)
The pinduino supports two basic designs for controlling LEDs:
1. Addressable LEDs (DIN, +5V, GND)
2. RBG LEDs (+12V, R, G, B) Note: RGB are just connections to GND.
For the former, you'll need a microcontroller (Arduino) to send data to the addressable leds; for the latter, some way to control ground (we just TIP122 transistors that are controlled by an Arduino.
For your setup, you may just want to have a +5V (or +12V) and a GND that is controlled by a transistor that is triggered when the motor moves. (Or two, for when the motor moves CW or CCW).
Overall, it adds a bit of complexity to your design and I'm not sure if it is worth it. Someone could easily just tap the motor power and hook up an LED. Or intercept the the eddy sensor switch using the SwitchShield by: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/always-wanted-to-build-your-own-pinball-lightmod#post-1981363
Then again, the integration would be nice too.
Great little mod! Please add me to the list. I'll take a fully assembled one (or DIY with all parts).
Quoted from lyonsden:I'm one of the pinduino guys (and on the order list for this board -- very nice work!)
The pinduino supports two basic designs for controlling LEDs:
1. Addressable LEDs (DIN, +5V, GND)
2. RBG LEDs (+12V, R, G, B) Note: RGB are just connections to GND.
For the former, you'll need a microcontroller (Arduino) to send data to the addressable leds; for the latter, some way to control ground (we just TIP122 transistors that are controlled by an Arduino.
For your setup, you may just want to have a +5V (or +12V) and a GND that is controlled by a transistor that is triggered when the motor moves. (Or two, for when the motor moves CW or CCW).
Overall, it adds a bit of complexity to your design and I'm not sure if it is worth it. Someone could easily just tap the motor power and hook up an LED. Or intercept the the eddy sensor switch using the SwitchShield by: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/always-wanted-to-build-your-own-pinball-lightmod#post-1981363
Then again, the integration would be nice too.
Thanks for explaining that.
I could lead out the signals from the motor and from the eddy-sensor switch to connectors if desired. These signals must be processed anyway by pinduino and/or pinlightshield and/or switchshield.
As lyonsden explained, if your want to "tap" the eddy-switch, you have to grab the signal there anyway, so an extra connector would only give the possibility to "tap" the signal easier.
Now to the motor signal. These signals also had to be processed anyway by pinduino and/or pinlightshield and/or switchshield. So it makes much more sense, to tap the motor power. For this, it would make sense, to add an extra connector, where you can connect your own built LED-cable, that lights depending on the direction of the motor. This cable is pretty easy to build.
But pics say more than words:
So what do you all think?
Quoted from german-pinball:Thanks for explaining that.
I could lead out the signals from the motor and from the eddy-sensor switch to connectors if desired. These signals must be processed anyway by pinduino and/or pinlightshield and/or switchshield.
As lyonsden explained, if your want to "tap" the eddy-switch, you have to grab the signal there anyway, so an extra connector would only give the possibility to "tap" the signal easier.
Now to the motor signal. These signals also had to be processed anyway by pinduino and/or pinlightshield and/or switchshield. So it makes much more sense, to tap the motor power. For this, it would make sense, to add an extra connector, where you can connect your own built LED-cable, that lights depending on the direction of the motor. This cable is pretty easy to build.
But pics say more than words:
LEON TOM light effects.JPG
So what do you all think?
That's an excellent idea. Just leave a spot where someone could easily add a header to tap into the signal.
Quoted from lyonsden:That's an excellent idea. Just leave a spot where someone could easily add a header to tap into the signal.
What connectors should be best for that? I would prefer these ones (NOT headers). pitch is US-standard 200mil (5,08mm):
Has the advantage, if you want to build your own cable for cw/ccw-LEDs, you do not need to crimp and do not need an additional housing, only a bit wire, 2 LEDs, a resistor and soldering iron.
Same for the row + column sigal fromm eddy-switch.
Or I will only make the holes in the PCB - universal - in pitch of 200mil and 100mil so that you can use my 2-pole terminal or a standard Molex-header.
What do you think?
Quoted from german-pinball:What connectors should be best for that? I would prefer these ones (NOT headers). pitch is US-standard 200mil (5,08mm):
http://www.reichelt.de/RIA-Stecksystem/AKL-057-02/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=5754&ARTICLE=36615&SEARCH=akl%20057-02&OFFSET=16&WKID=0&
Has the advantage, if you want to build your own cable for cw/ccw-LEDs, you do not need to crimp and do not need an additional housing, only a bit wire, 2 LEDs, a resistor and soldering iron.
Same for the row + column sigal fromm eddy-switch.
Or I will only make the holes in the PCB - universal - in pitch of 200mil and 100mil so that you can use my 2-pole terminal or a standard Molex-header.
What do you think?
Final PCB could look like this (now all through-hole parts and the board is smaller due to double-sided layout):
Quoted from german-pinball:What connectors should be best for that? I would prefer these ones (NOT headers). pitch is US-standard 200mil (5,08mm):
http://www.reichelt.de/RIA-Stecksystem/AKL-057-02/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=5754&ARTICLE=36615&SEARCH=akl%20057-02&OFFSET=16&WKID=0&
Has the advantage, if you want to build your own cable for cw/ccw-LEDs, you do not need to crimp and do not need an additional housing, only a bit wire, 2 LEDs, a resistor and soldering iron.
Same for the row + column sigal fromm eddy-switch.
Or I will only make the holes in the PCB - universal - in pitch of 200mil and 100mil so that you can use my 2-pole terminal or a standard Molex-header.
What do you think?
I'd just have standard holes to let someone attach what they want (standard header, your top choice, or solder wires to the board). I don't know how many people would use it, but I'd go for the simpler build with a lower BOM cost.
Thanks!!! I will think a bit about that. Cost are a few cents more, but I also think, that not many will use the signal, particularly the Eddy-signal. The motor-signal however is more interesting, because it will give a nice and very easy to make extra light-effect.
GREAT, my parts arrived today and I can complete the proto this evening and then it will go to canea.
By the way, here is the updated schematics (with coloured wires), so that we can see how it all works together:
Quoted from german-pinball:By the way, here is the updated schematics (with coloured wires), so that we can see how it all works together:
Looks great!
On the mod LED that you added, that illuminates with the trunk motor is running, is this 6 or 13v?
I could really see a flasher uplighting/strobing the trunk when it is rotating.
Quoted from bstyles:On the mod LED that you added, that illuminates with the trunk motor is running, is this 6 or 13v?
I could really see a flasher uplighting/strobing the trunk when it is rotating.
and....shaker motor trigger.....
-c
Quoted from CraigC:and....shaker motor trigger.....
-c
Now that is an interesting idea!
Put me down on the list for two of these boards. Assembled or as a kit, does not matter. Thanks for making this board available.
Will the final board incorporate all those jumpers into the traces on the rear?
Quoted from Eddie:Nice Idea similar to the Bigfoot spotlight Mod on WH20 ! Well guys I know you have been doing a lot of work on the board so far with many updated changes .What do you say to adding a mod to it?
And speaking of which, can we get a discount wh20 big foot board next
Quoted from canea:While we wait for Ingo's proto I made a quick video of the error as it appears in my game during Spirit Cards. Not sure if this error appears during other illusions, but I've never seen it on video before, so here you go. Action is at 1:25 if you don't want to listen to me babble and sorry for the crap quality video, ack.
» YouTube video
Is this what the Pinbits board fixes? I was going to order them for the outlanes but mine has started to doing this exact same thing recently as well.
If so, I'll take one for sure also!
Quoted from Spencer:Is this what the Pinbits board fixes? I was going to order them for the outlanes but mine has started to doing this exact same thing recently as well.
If so, I'll take one for sure also!
Pinbits simply offers Auto Eddy boards and Eddy sensor boards. If your game isn't registering trunk 'hits' then you need to adjust your eddy board and if adjusting it doesn't work, then you will need to replace the eddy sensor board and/or the eddy logic board.
The mod discussed in this thread solves a different problem.
The project goes on:
In the first prototype, we used Leon´s idea to cut the power-line to the eddy-board, while motor is running.
I had some great discussion with zaza and we wondered, if it wouldn´t be better, to cut the switch-signal instead of the power-line. Cutting the power-line could result in an unwanted pulse from the eddy-board, which could affect the switch matrix.
Therefore I have built a second prototype, where I cut the column-line, when the motor is running.
Here are the 2 different proto-boards:
first prototype
second (NEW) prototype
By the way, here are the cables, that will be provided with the final version:
To demonstrate you all, how it all works together and how the 2 different version work, I have built a little testcircuit to simulate all. The test-board looks as follows:
And here is a new VIDEO Leon´s Magic Magic trunk explained that shows both prototype-boards in action - please look that video - hope, you like it a bit.
The boards are on the way to CANEA now and in about 5-10 days, we will see them work in a real TOM
Small Digression:
Finally, I found the time, to build the new Trunk-Opto-Board. This board eliminates all design flaws made by Bally/WMS. I used the same reliable circuit, I have used on my TZ-Clock-Board. This new Trunk-Opto-Board is a complete new design and will never ever again cause the all known problems. Diagnostic LEDs for each infrared-LED and for each phototransistor/detector. I have developped the schematics a few years ago, but never found the time, to build a prototype.
The board is also on the way to CANEA now and in about 5-10 days, he will be the first, to also test this board in his real TOM. I think, CANEA will report after testing.
But pictures say more than words It was a lot of work, because I do not often build and etch double-layer boards.
Have fun
Well, I have to get back on my post in page 2. I had the problem a few days ago. It was.. annoying, but actually I was more frustrated by the credit dot that appeared than the trunk being disabled.
Quoted from FreeBee:Well, I have to get back on my post in page 2. I had the problem a few days ago. It was.. annoying, but actually I was more frustrated by the credit dot that appeared than the trunk being disabled.
That is the well known problem, when the trunk-opto-board does not work correct, because at least one of the optos is bad. The board in post #146 will sove this probelm forever.
1) Glad you changed the design to cut signal rather than power to the eddy. I was going to suggest that, but figured you must have already considered that.... Guess this is where you inser the saying about the "only stuipd question is the one not asked..."
2) Does the trunk opto board include the Leon's board logic? ie. a single board to rule them all?
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