Friendly Bump for the best trunk boards
get one before they sell out
(Topic ID: 135409)
Linked Games
Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995
Topic Gallery
Hartford, WI
Hi Ingo
I just paid you $64.00 through pay-pal, for the Trunk Opto-Board With Leon Integrated (Complete & Soldered).
My original post was #22 saying that I wanted one, but I had to wait because of multiple surgeries to my eye. THANKS for doing these! I can't wait to get mine. Take care.
Dan
Quoted from pinfrank76:Sorry for spamming......already found the answer in another thread!
The connector is one that is not used in the game. That's why I couldn't find another connector to plug it into
Cheers.
That baffled me, too ... I had pictures when I took mine apart to remove one of the ramps, but didn't have that connector in the picture so wasn't completely sure. Thanks for the clarification! I wasn't motivated enough to search. 
Edit: Oh, and thanks Ingo! Look forward to the board! Although, funny enough, since I've cleaned everything up, degreased, lubed, tightened, etc., I haven't had a single trunk failure in weeks. I used to have to avoid the trunk during multiball to get around this problem.
If you put the wire harnesses he provides with the black caps on the board as in post #386, it's impossible to screw up from there. The only tricky part is that you need a molex pin extractor in order to get the wheel over the wires.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-trunk-error-leons-fix-anyone-done-this/page/8
Toronto, ON
Quoted from Starwriter:If you put the wire harnesses he provides with the black caps on the board as in post #386, it's impossible to screw up from there.
The connectors on the wire harnesses provided by Ingo are also keyed too also making it impossible to screw up too.
Quoted from gliebig:What post are installation instructions on?
In a hurry a made some instructions especially for gliebig, so to speak the "gliebig-version"
Please take this picture as a starting point:
perfect_installation_Trunk_Opto_+_Leon_(resized).JPG
INSTALLATION OF THE NEW TRUNK OPTO BOARD
1.)
TURN MACHINE OFF!!!
2.)
Locate the trunk assembly under the playfield.
3.)
Then Unplug the cable from connector J1 of the trunk opto board.
4.)
Next unplung the cable that is going through the trunk shaft.
UPDATE: Installing the trunk opto board requires a molex 0.062" extraction tool, e.g.
this https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W-HT-2285
or
this https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Remover-Computer-Extractor-Sleeving/dp/B0094MIS9U
because there is a 2 or 3 pin connector that won't fit through the shaft of the interuptor wheel. You extract these pins from the connector and it will slide through and then once you install new board thread it back through and pop back into the connector (update text by mwong168 - thanks Michael).
5.)
Locate the black plastic or aluminium opto interruptor disc.
6.)
Then carefully look at the opto interruptor disc and locate the slot in the interruptor disc.
7.)
Remove the set screw #8-32 x 1/2".
8.)
Remove the opto interruptor disc.
9.)
Loosen the 4 nuts #8-32, that hold the trunk opto board. Take care, that you do not loose the 4 flat washers under the nuts. Take out the trunk opto board.
10.)
Install the new trunk opto-board or the combo-board in its place.
11.)
Put in the 4 flat washers and the 4 nuts and tighten the nuts.
12.)
Put the opto interruptor disc back in its place and tighten the set srew. The slot in the interruptor disc must be in the same position as before – see step 6.).
13.)
Then plug in the connector to J1 of the trunk opto board and also plug in the connector of the cable, that is going through the trunk shaft.
14.)
Turn machine on. Now 5 green LEDs should be lit (the green LEDs near the corresponding opto show power and health of the infrared LED inside this optocoupler). Also one red LED should be lit at the opto, where the slot in the interruptor disc is (the red LEDs show the output status of the photo-transistors in the optocouplers).
15.)
Then go to test menu and there to the trunk test page. Advancing the trunk, it should stop every 90° and the then the next red LED should light.
16.)
Have fun with your new trunk opto board.
INSTALLATION OF THE "LEON"-BOARD
1.)
Unplug the harness from Motor Driver PCB J2 (this harness goes to the motor)
2.)
Plug this harness into connector J2 on the Leon Board.
3.)
Take the with the board provided harness with the 2 wires (red/black). Put the side with the black plastic into connector J2-N of the Leon-Board. Put the other side of this harness into J2 of the Motor-Driver-PCB.
4.)
Unplug the harness from Eddy Sensor PCB J1 (this harness comes from the CPU-Board). See a photo of J1 ond the eddy Sensor PCB here: https://images.pinside.com/8/d3/8d36ac55dd365ecca203554020276055a3e3c386/resized/large/8d36ac55dd365ecca203554020276055a3e3c386.jpg
5.)
Plug this harness into connector J1 on the Leon Board.
6.)
Take the with the board provided harness with the 4 wires (green/green/black/red). Put the side with the black plastic into connector J1-N of the Leon-Board. Put the other side of this harness into J1 of the Eddy Sensor PCB.
7.)
Ready – enjoy your new board.
You cannot do anything wrong, all connectors are coded!!! MACHINE ALWAYS OFF WHEN WORKING UNDER THE PLAYFIELD!!!
The installation must look same as in the perfect installation by Canea in the photo above.
.
Hope, that helps.
Almere
I received my board sometime last week and just opened it.
EXCELLENT job soldering and populating components.
This 7 day work schedule is killing me but looking forward when I get the time to install it.
Damn nice work!
Finally got mine installed tonight. I started testing things out, and the trunk was acting all stupid. Stopping at wrong angles, stopping altogether (like what the Leon fix is supposed to fix), etc. I started taking video with plans of posting it after my troubleshooting. In the end, it was that the opto interrupter was a little crooked on the trunk shaft. It was in the right spot, but just not parallel to the board. I then looked closer and the opto interrupter is actually cracked (you can see it in the picture below). I guess that it is time to get a new one. Wasn't planning on another $35 part (mine is plastic, and I couldn't find any anywhere, and the metal ones should last longer anyway).
So it was leveled out, and is now working correctly despite the crack (FYI, the crack was there before I started tightening the set screw, but at first I thought that it was just a "flex cut" since the one side that I was looking at was fairly straight. Apparently not. Anyway, the board seems to work great. I didn't do the test that would cause the trunk to normally shut down, but will do that in a day or so (had to get cleaned up quick to go to dinner at the time). Anyway, another install picture....
New board in place
Kouvola
UPDATE:
On 11. Febr. 2016 I shipped to the following persons:
flugs
pinballinreno
MikeHogue
CHighfill
Malibu-SS
burtcam
PinballHelp
jk
marcelmagic
okletsgo
orbian
Skarv
PinBallMagician
krunch
meSz
Still 14 of the very latecomers open, will ship next week and then the list is completly shipped.
Good job, German-pinball. Your dedication and hard work with the opto and relay boards is beyond all comprehension.
I recently bought one Theatre of Magic and I'm currently surveying the machine. I had a few issues needed cleaning up on the opto board, and I've experienced that dredded trunk freeze too. Things I did to stabilize the trunk was tightening the nuts around its shaft adding a spring washer, also I mind to center the opto-board properly when mounting it (there's a millimeter of tolerans), and I slightly enlarged the notch in the interruptor-wheel for the sensors to pick it up easier. I've also mounted a simple switching relay on the trunk sensor, I've got this Pinbit Auto Eddy board, to cut the sensor while the motor is spinning. Now I'm only waiting to play the hell out of my ToM to see how it works in practice. I have a few concerns about the fact that the Auto Eddy is an automatically adjusting sensor, which would make it prone to a certain time of adjustment right after sensor re-activation when the motor stops spinning.
I understand that your Leon board basically does the same thing, switching the sensor off while motor is in action. So I would very much like if you guys with the Auto Eddy trunk sensor would give your ToM a thorough testing, noting any deviant behavior in game, before and after any game (besides the fact that the trunk won't register any hits while spinning this time). I will today, and I will let you know.
Sorry I forgot to attach a picture of my fix, here it is:
Quoted from uncletom:Good job, German-pinball. Your dedication and hard work with the opto and relay boards is beyond all comprehension.
I recently bought one Theatre of Magic and I'm currently surveying the machine. I had a few issues needed cleaning up on the opto board, and I've experienced that dredded trunk freeze too. Things I did to stabilize the trunk was tightening the nuts around its shaft adding a spring washer, also I mind to center the opto-board properly when mounting it (there's a millimeter of tolerans), and I slightly enlarged the notch in the interruptor-wheel for the sensors to pick it up easier. I've also mounted a simple switching relay on the trunk sensor, I've got this Pinbit Auto Eddy board, to cut the sensor while the motor is spinning. Now I'm only waiting to play the hell out of my ToM to see how it works in practice. I have a few concerns about the fact that the Auto Eddy is an automatically adjusting sensor, which would make it prone to a certain time of adjustment right after sensor re-activation when the motor stops spinning.
I understand that your Leon board basically does the same thing, switching the sensor off while motor is in action. So I would very much like if you guys with the Auto Eddy trunk sensor would give your ToM a thorough testing, noting any deviant behavior in game, before and after any game (besides the fact that the trunk won't register any hits while spinning this time). I will today, and I will let you know.
Sorry I forgot to attach a picture of my fix, here it is:Relay_009_(resized).jpg
The problems you mention with the auto-eddy-board from pinbits do NOT exist. We do NOT cut the POWER to the auto-eddy-board, but instead cut the switch matrix ROW-line. This is discussed earlier in this thread and we changed the original Leon-design.
Others have a pinbits board too and do not have any problems.
Quoted from german-pinball:cut the switch matrix ROW-line
No, I didn't cut the power, I tapped into the sensor leads. The problem with that is that every time the sensor disconnects it registers a 'trunk hit'.
Thank you for the info.
Ordered two single boards. It will be really nice not to have to worry about accidentally killing the trunk just because of hitting it at the wrong time, especially when making good progress on a high score. Thanks, Ingo, for making this available.
Quoted from german-pinball:Here is my schematic of the "Leon-Board":
Thank you very much GermanP. I see you break the white-green lead to the trunk hit switch. I rewired my relay switch to break the green-grey wire, and it works. I've been pounding my trunk now for a few hours and it hasn't changed direction when getting hit while spinning, nor has it freezed. So I think I'm OK with this fix.
I would have bought your awesome boards, and your tester board, if it wouldn't be for my original boards still being in working order. Also my ToM has some items that need additional attention.
Montech
Quoted from uncletom:Thank you very much GermanP. I see you break the white-green lead to the trunk hit switch. I rewired my relay switch to break the green-grey wire, and it works. I've been pounding my trunk now for a few hours and it hasn't changed direction when getting hit while spinning, nor has it freezed. So I think I'm OK with this fix.
I would have bought your awesome boards, and your tester board, if it wouldn't be for my original boards still being in working order. Also my ToM has some items that need additional attention.
Great you have been sucessful and I could help you with the schematics. It doesn´t matter, if you cut the row (as I did) or column (as you did).
1 week later
1 week later
Any update
Quoted from german-pinball:Still 14 of the very latecomers open, will ship next week and then the list is completly shipped.
Any update on the final shipment?
Hi guys,
it´s party time ...
The list in post #83 is complete. The last 11 boards have been soldered yesterday and will be shipped tomorrow.
All work is done now and I hope, you all have been lucky with the boards, the transactions and my work.
I thank you all so much for your patience, your cooperation, correspondence, assistance - simply all!!!
And - we should and will never forget LEON from Begium, RIP brother!!!!
- Ingo
Indeed, RIP Leon. That guy is a legend! I have one of his custom chips, for Atari pinball machines, that I found in an envelope wedged underneath my ToM. I learned about him trying to figure out the origin of the chip. We owe him a ton!
Also, excellent work Ingo. The boards are beautiful!
1 week later
Got my board yesterday...not sure when I'll get around to installing it.
Have to admit, that is one very professional looking board....I'm very impressed.
Good work Leon.....
Thanks for making this.
Finally got around to installing, very easy! Excellent board, Ingo!
I'm having a minor problem that I cannot duplicate regularly since installing the board. Sometimes, the trunk registers a hit even though the ball is nowhere near... This typically happens during a skill shot: for example, you shoot the ball and as soon as the ball leaves the plunger, the skill shot (trunk hit) registers.
I tried reseating/confirming connections, nothing obvious. The eddy sensor is a pinbit auto eddy. Any suggestions on what to check? Thanks!
Quoted from bhwolf:Finally got around to installing, very easy! Excellent board, Ingo!
I'm having a minor problem that I cannot duplicate regularly since installing the board. Sometimes, the trunk registers a hit even though the ball is nowhere near... This typically happens during a skill shot: for example, you shoot the ball and as soon as the ball leaves the plunger, the skill shot (trunk hit) registers.
I tried reseating/confirming connections, nothing obvious. The eddy sensor is a pinbit auto eddy. Any suggestions on what to check? Thanks!
Strange ...
You ordered the combo-board.
Try the following:
Ignore the "Leon-Part" of the board and plug the connector coming from the cpu-board directly to your eddy board and also connect the motor directly to the motor control board. This way, the Leon part is "dead" and has no function.
Clean the sensor inductor with isopropanol or so before, then test again and report please.
My board arrived in great condition. I thought it had gotten lost, because although it got to New York from Germany in only 3 days, it sat in the U. S. Customs office in New York city for 11 days before being finally released to continue its travel down to my location. We just have to be patient sometimes. But that's hard to do when waiting for a board that beautifully solves such an irritating software flaw.
Ingo ,
Have you sold all of the boards that you have made ?
Just asking mate ..as i should of also purchased a Trunk-Opto-Board
for a spare ...
Totally off tangent question. RoadShow can have a similar issue with the bulldozer blade. I wonder if this board could also address similar issues with it? Has this been asked or considered?
Finally got my molex pin removal tool and installed this board. The instructions in post #458 were excellent! Thanks Ingo!
Quoted from Goalie:So I just installed mine and now the trunk doesn't sense any hits at all. ?
Did you double check all the connections per the instructions?
Also, is the opto calibrated? Mine would never stay calibrated until I glued the dial after setting it (probably not good advice).
Look at rhe board near the trunk opto, with a little dial that can be turned with a small Phillips screwdriver, turn it one way until the red light comes on, and then turn it the other way until the red light *just barely* turns off.
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