(Topic ID: 51082)

TOM - Switch Matrix Column 6 dead ...what did I screw up?

By Rarehero

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

Hey guys - Column 6 of my TOM switch matrix isn't working...this takes out the slings, top lanes, and bumpers. Here's my guess to what may have caused it: I was switching out GI bulbs for LEDs...I was doing this from under the playfield by removing sockets (with the power on...yes, smack me). It's likely one of the sockets grazed a switch. So - if that's what indeed happened, what is it likely that I damaged? Switch diode or something on the CPU?

#2 10 years ago

You took out U20 on your CPU.

LTG : )

#3 10 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

You took out U20 on your CPU.
LTg : )

BLARGH! Well, I think I have some spares around here...

Though - I did just test the diode on the most likey spot where the grazing happened...and it was dead...so - fingers crossed, changing diode is cheap and easy.

EDIT:

YAY, U20 is socketed! I had a spare chip, put it in...all is working now.

Thanks Lloyd!

Are U20's always socketed or did i just get lucky?

#4 10 years ago

u20 cost 0.19 here each

Amount of people who read about this and still do it its crazy you can work with the machine on with #555's but not #44's

Well I get away with it

#5 10 years ago

Thanks for this thread, I have the exact same problem from doing the same thing.

Now.... what is a u20?

#6 10 years ago

u20 is the matrix column controller usually below the battery soldered or hopefully a socket already fitted tot he board.

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Are U20's always socketed or did i just get lucky?

Nope had this happen on my BSD, had to desolder chip, install new socket, then u20...

#8 10 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Are U20's always socketed or did i just get lucky?

On WPC-S and WPC-95 they are socketed by factory since they go out so much / so easily. On WPC they were not so if you see one socketed, it means that it was already replaced.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

On WPC-S and WPC-95 they are socketed by factory since they go out so much / so easily. On WPC they were not so if you see one socketed, it means that it was already replaced.

Sweeeeet...yay, I got lucky!

#10 10 years ago

Hey,

Just a quick bit of advice. I had the same issue on my TZ; had to replace the ULN2708A (I think that's the chip), and it wasn't socketed. If you're in there on an older game and changing the chip out anyhow, throw a socket in there. You have to do the soldering anyhow, and makes it easier if it happens again...

Luke

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from lukerp:

Hey,
Just a quick bit of advice. I had the same issue on my TZ; had to replace the ULN2708A (I think that's the chip), and it wasn't socketed. If you're in there on an older game and changing the chip out anyhow, throw a socket in there. You have to do the soldering anyhow, and makes it easier if it happens again...
Luke

Yup, I had a bad chip on a battery-leak damaged board. Definitely worth replacing it with a socket.

BTW - can anyone recommend a good cutter for those "close to the board" chips and such? I had one that was just OK...but it broke anyway. Would be nice to have the right tool handy for future repairs.

1 week later
#12 10 years ago

ULN2803A. These are easily found on Ebay or Pinball Life.

It's amazing the different ways that a flaky ULN2803A can manifest. (I had a bad ULN2803A appear like a ROW problem - go figure.)

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

...
BTW - can anyone recommend a good cutter for those "close to the board" chips and such? I had one that was just OK...but it broke anyway. Would be nice to have the right tool handy for future repairs.

Look for a cutter like this:
ebay.com link: Wiha 56818 Precision Electronic Diagonal Cutters Wide Pointed Head
There are also others to find, that are a bit cheaper, but this one is good.

- Ingo

#14 10 years ago

I have seen a lots of WPC89 games with sockets at U20. I am pretty sure this appeared in some games prior to WPC-S from the factory, but not all.

#15 10 years ago

eBay link doesn't work. Here's one from Hakko. You want the blades to be very narrow so they will fit between the pins on an IC.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP170-Micro-Cutter-16AWG/dp/B0000WT6FI/ref=sr_1_3

10 years later
#16 6 months ago

Thank you for this post. It just save me a big headache.

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