Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Arcadegarage.
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Hey guys,
Was disassembling the trunk because it was giving me crap. Was moving slowly but then through the tests would go faster and faster. Replaced the opto interruptor and regreased the gears.
LED7 and TP1 are out but no fuses are blown. Cannot get 12V to play the game.
There was one connector under the trunk under the pf that I couldn't find the other part to. Is it supposed to be left disconnected?
Any thoughts? Thanks.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:If you disconnected things under the playfield, I would expect this as you have row(s) or column(s) disconnected. It will be just like having a wire broken in one row, where it would register all the switches in that row even when you hit one switch. Kinda like having a floating ground.
Just to clarify, we didn't start to tear down the trunk until after we did the trunk tests. At first the trunk was crawling and not progressing to turn in certain directions. I just kept pushing the buttons and testing it further and, as I did, the trunk became more free. So, we started to disassemble it so we could lube the gears a bit. Did that. When we reassembled and plugged everything back in, no 12V and the message on the DMD appeared.
Quoted from RVH:This connector is not used.
Thanks for the visual. That's exactly what I was looking for. We were thinking that maybe we just accidentally left something unplugged and when we saw that lone connector and couldn't find the other side I figured I'd ask. Great, now we can rule that out.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Is J112 disconnected or F116 fuse blown?
Did you replace BR5 or C30? If so, you probably have a damaged trace or feedthrough between them.
J112 is fine, F116 is good. I did not replace BR5 or C30. Guess you can't really test those without pulling the board?
This problem also started out of the blue. We hadn't even touched the backbox when the message appeared about the 12V missing. We were only working on the trunk under the pf.
So, is the next step to test or replace the bridge and cap?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Sure, I'll try and get some pics for ya. From what I remember the bridge and cap look ok from the parts side...didn't look at the solder side. Black cap (no bulging or leaking), grey bridge. Nothing bent or visibly broken. Haven't even touched that area of the board before.
Strange how one fuse blew and knocked out LED5, but I replaced it and things are fine.
If I remember correctly, and I can double check, there was no voltage at TP1. Definitely less than 5V for sure.
Don't think it could be a trace problem because we weren't in the backbox at all recently within the past several months. Haven't ever done repairs on that board.
I've had the game for probably 3 years and never really played it because the trunk has never fully worked. I thought replacing the cracked opto interruptor and installing a new Great Lakes modular opto board would do it but the trunk still has issues. That's why we took it apart and lubed the gears. Everything moved freely inside the gearbox and we didn't see any cut wires anywhere. The shaft looked good also. No visible damage. Things spin freely. Was hoping to do another trunk test when reassembled but now that 12V problem showed up.
The common denominator is us disassembling the trunk. The game worked fully before we touched that minus the trunk having spinning problems.
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Philadelphia, PA