Left flipper was weak and I was getting a test error with the left EOS switch not firing. It looked pretty fried and I had the parts to rehab the flipper anyhow, so I did. I am almost 100% sure I put the wires back correctly (also checked with the right EOS and it was correct) and I'm still getting no EOS in the switch test. As far as I can trace the wires they are fine, so are we looking at something further back on the main board?

Let me also note that the backbox GI isn't working on this game. I've replaced several components already on the board and still haven't resolved the issue. I don't know if it is possible I damaged anything but if this is of help I can pull up the schematics and figure out what I've replaced so far. I am pretty sure at least both triacs for the backbox (along with their diodes). I also replaced J120 and J121 as they were fried, along with the main power plug (forget which one that is). Had to do a through hole jumper on that one, oh boy. This board has had some work on it, in other words. Most was done supervised or directed by a seasoned tech so it's fairly solid. My next step on the GI was to confirm continuity between the components I replaced but I haven't pulled the board again yet. Really more concerned about the EOS.

Thanks!

AH makes sense, thanks!

Ok, so that was good fun.. found that the wire from the left EOS was disconnected at the right EOS, soldered up and good to go. Now, one of the reasons I rebuilt was because the left flipper was weak and it still is pretty weak. It's hard to get the ball up the right ramp and it goes really slow around the orbit. What would be left after replacing the bushing, switch and coil sleeve? It would seem all that is left is the linkage and the coil. The whole thing was just pulled apart and it looked ok but I don't know how much slop should be in the linkage. From what I keep hearing is that a coil either works or doesn't. The right flipper, btw, is nice and strong.

To add some more detail, I just adjusted the EOS switch to make sure it was in alignment, so that isn't it. I also paid close attention to the difference between left and right flippers. The right definitely has a "snap" to it and really hits hard all through the stroke. The left has significantly less snap and more of a slow "push" of the ball off the flipper. The ball rolls off the end of the flipper pretty easily since there is no snap to it.

The "piston" of the linkage didn't seem all that worn and the "end cap" didn't seem mushroomed or deformed at all.

Thanks, I'll swap the optos

Ok, confirmed not the optos.

When you say mechanical, do you mean the linkage? I don't mind replacing them both, just so long as it makes sense.

For DC, could you tell me which lugs to test and how? I know it's high power there so I'm leery.

Thanks, ordered link rebuild kit and I'll test DC volts.

So I bought and installed the rebuild kit, everything looks good even got a new flipper bat. Mech moves cleanly, sleeve is installed the right way, spring has good tension. However, the flipper still has about the same quality of flip as it did before. I can barely, if I catch it on a roll, hit the right ramp successfully (with enough power).

I searched for coil testing voltages and didn't find much on that subject.. lots on testing coils with the power off. Am I testing with the flipper depressed? I assume that is the "hold" voltage which isn't in question? So is it just a "blip" of voltage when the coil fires? I am going to play around and see what I can do, but any more info would be great.

Following up here, the power issues is that the wrong coils were installed by the PO. Red wrapped coils were installed whereas blue wrapped are specced.

Thanks for the reminder.. I just couldn't remember the numbers off the top of my head Yeah, I ordered by number in the manual.