Ed has the parts and tools you need. Size .156 - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

You need new connector, new pins in connector, and new pins on the board.

Once it started burning it will only get worse.

LTG : )

Fix J121 while you are at it. Somebody already hacked the right side.

LTG : )

You have no light bulbs on AND the connector is burning and getting hot?? Check the bulbs again. Are they perhaps really dim? If they are not on at all, then there may be a different problem. The heat is caused by current being drawn, but with no light bulbs illuminated, then where is that power going? You'll need to find that.

There isn't a different problem. Williams used connectors for GI ( backbox and playfield ) that weren't rated for the current going through them.

This is a known issue for a lot of games. New connector, new pins in connector, new pins on the board. In home use will last a very long time.

LTG : )

The two green wires on J121 pins 1 and 2 don't match the manual. Follow those wires to see what's going on there.

By the manual, you currently have female connector J121 attached to male connector J120 and vice versa. Ok because the connectors are wired in parallel, but heads up for when you get started. Do one pin at a time and you hopefully won't need the manual.

If you don't have a manual. Pinwiki has a chart for color positions on J120 and J121. You may not have as many wires but they go in the same spots.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

Study what phishrace posted about those two green wires cobbled in. As long as you are fixing this, may as well do it right.

LTG : )

there's no current being drawn. the connector burned when current WAS being drawn, causing it to fail. thus, no lights now.

I always go to GPE first but he was out of some of this stuff last time I looked. I ordered headers and housings from KsArcade.net last time. The cut to length headers are pretty handy.

This crimper was recommended as a good deal in another thread and it’s nice, much better than my cheap Waldom.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S

The pins for inside the connector. Get trifurcon ones. Buy a lot of them. So you can sit at a table and practice before moving onto the machine.

LTG : )

Replace those roasted GI connectors for sure, but keep an eye on them aftewards. It is possible for the header pins to have become damaged enough already that your nice new superior trifurcon connectors will also burn up over time. Check the connectors once or twice a year and see how they fare. If anything is overheating, you will need to replace the connector again plus the header pins. (Replacing the pins is a much bigger job--though still something nearly anyone can learn to do if they are willing to pay for the right tools.)

A previous owner hacked in a replacement battery... I have no idea what that thing is but it is easy enough to replace it with a normal 3x AA a remote battery pack. Whatever battery setup you use, get it off that board in case it leaks. (Lithium batteries are supposed to be leak proof and they haven't bitten me yet, but I still don't trust them 100%.)

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I would have NVRAM installed over a battery pack holder. No reason to have batteries in a TOM. There is not a midnight madness mode that depends on the real time clock in this game.