(Topic ID: 222118)

ToM Issues

By PBatt

5 years ago


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  • 28 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by PBatt
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 5 years ago

    It is definitely the by product of do-it-yourself. But how else will I learn . . .

    I was replacing burnt out bulbs and cleaning my ToM. Once I was done, I restarted the machine and noticed that the Two upper lanes didn't work (the switches didn't detect the ball rolling over them), the Bumper Jet didn't fire and the two "bumper" just above the flippers do not kick the ball when hit. I have carefully inspected the wiring and I cannot find any broken wires. But now when I turn on the machine, it double feeds a balls into the plunger.

    I have attached two pics in case they help. I don't have an owners manual, but using the one I have found on line, does help me is understanding the the Test (T.1) results.

    I have read about the blown U20 (and I have 3 on order in case that's the issue). But I'd like to confirm, if possible, before I start removing and replacing chips (which I have done before on other devices).

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! My apologies if this has been covered. I tried to find out what I could before posting.

    Thank you!

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    #2 5 years ago

    First go into switch edge test to see if all of the associated switches register. Make sure you can hear the microswitch click when doing this. You might just need to make adjustments to the wire actuators.

    Usually when the game serves two balls, there is a switch issue in the trough or in the shooter lane. The troughs are optos, so you'll have to empty the trough, then drop one ball at a time into the outhole and see if all of the switches register as the ball rolls past all of the optos.

    #3 5 years ago

    Order sockets for U20 too, it's soldered on in your game.

    LTG : )

    #4 5 years ago

    For any associated non-working solenoids, go into solenoid test and cycle the test to make sure all associated solenoids fire. If they do it is probably a switch issue.

    #5 5 years ago

    Cool. Thank you. The switches do check out when tested. (T.1).

    #6 5 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Order sockets for U20 too, it's soldered on in your game.
    LTG : )

    Also ordered! Thanks!

    #7 5 years ago
    Quoted from FatPanda:

    For any associated non-working solenoids, go into solenoid test and cycle the test to make sure all associated solenoids fire. If they do it is probably a switch issue.

    Will do. I checked them before and they did fire.

    #8 5 years ago
    Quoted from FatPanda:

    First go into switch test to see if all of the associated switches register. Make sure you can hear the microswitch click when doing this. You might just need to make adjustments to the wire actuators.
    Usually when the game serves two balls, there is a switch issue in the trough or in the shooter lane. The troughs are optos, so you'll have to empty the trough, then drop one ball at a time into the outhole and see if all of the switches register as the ball rolls past all of the optos.

    Understood. Using Test T.1?

    #9 5 years ago

    When replacing the bulb was the game on or did you just shut it off and possibly short something? The capacitors hold power for a bit longer than you would expect and it is possible to short a switch row or column even with the power off.

    #10 5 years ago
    Quoted from PBatt:

    Understood. Using Test T.1?

    Switch edge test. Cant remember offhand which one that is. I edited my post above.

    #11 5 years ago
    Quoted from FatPanda:

    When replacing the bulb was the game on or did you just shut it off and possibly short something? The capacitors hold power for a bit longer than you would expect and it is possible to short a switch row or column even with the power off.

    Power was on . . .

    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from FatPanda:

    For any associated non-working solenoids, go into solenoid test and cycle the test to make sure all associated solenoids fire. If they do it is probably a switch issue.

    Checked. All work (fire when tested).

    #13 5 years ago
    Quoted from PBatt:

    Power was on . . .

    If the power was on, you may have shorted U20, as suspected.

    #14 5 years ago

    If you pull the main MPU, you might be able to see black marks on the backside. Do you have any experience with soldering/desoldering?

    #15 5 years ago

    When doing any work under the PF, make sure the power is off, if not already obvious

    #16 5 years ago
    Quoted from FatPanda:

    If you pull the main MPU, you might be able to see black marks on the backside. Do you have any experience with soldering/desoldering?

    Yes. Please explain what the MPU is. Is that the U20?

    Forgive I don't have an owners manual, so I am unable to identify some of the parts.

    #17 5 years ago
    Quoted from PBatt:

    Yes. Please explain what the MPU is. Is that the U20?
    Forgive I don't have an owners manual, so I am unable to identify some of the parts.

    My bad. No I have checked and yes I have experience soldering.

    #18 5 years ago
    Quoted from PBatt:

    Forgive I don't have an owners manual, so I am unable to identify some of the parts.

    Download a manual here : https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl

    CPU with U20 is the board in the head with batteries on it.

    LTG : )

    #19 5 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Download a manual here : https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl
    CPU with U20 is the board in the head with batteries on it.
    LTG : )

    Yup. I am using that one. The batteries are 3 AA in an separate battery holder. The board they are wired to is component side towards the other board.

    Is there any indicator that the u20 is bad?

    #20 5 years ago
    Quoted from PBatt:

    Is there any indicator that the u20 is bad?

    Shit not working.

    LTG : )

    #21 5 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Shit not working.
    LTG : )

    Confirmed. Shit not working!

    #22 5 years ago

    They are saying replace the component. You can take the board to local electronics repair shop.

    #23 5 years ago
    Quoted from Gunnut40:

    They are saying replace the component. You can take the board to local electronics repair shop.

    You mean the u20? I can remove and replace that. I didn't know if what I am describing is a u20 issue or something else.

    #24 5 years ago

    Have you pulled the fuse that controls the sling coils(above the flippers)? Does the game work the same when it pulled? It almost sounds like a bad mosfet. The game will not work right if it is fried. Try simple stuff first before hacking into your boards.

    #25 5 years ago
    Quoted from Gunnut40:

    Have you pulled the fuse that controls the sling coils(above the flippers)? Does the game work the same when it pulled? It almost sounds like a bad mosfet. The game will not work right if it is fried. Try simple stuff first before hacking into your boards.

    "Slings". Got it. Do you know where I can find the fuse list? What fuse goes to what components?

    Thank you for the suggestion. I do want to try everything else before I start soldering. What amperage are the fuses? I don't have any spares and will need to buy some.

    Thanks again!

    #27 5 years ago
    Quoted from PBatt:

    Do you know where I can find the fuse list? What fuse goes to what components?

    In the manual. You can get it in the link I provided in the 18th post.

    LTG : )

    #28 5 years ago

    F I X E D ! ! ! Surprise, surprise it was the U20. I ordered replacements from marcos (thanks Marcos) and it turns out the board was socketed. Remove and replace and we are 100%.

    Thank you all for your assistance.

    I'll most likely need your help again.

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