Hi (pbm3 and) currieddog
want to read this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-toledo-will-not-recognize-ball-drain#post-4014459 - and the following post-14 (You may have to make You an copy (down) to Your computer). Greetings Rolf

Hi pbm3
we must keep apart: Everybody would like to see an good copy of Toledo in ipdb --- You are troubleshooting on an specific problem. In post-3 I showed the link to the partial schematics (I at the time have put together from pinside-snippets --- don't get fooled - here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/toledo-stuck-on-ball-1#post-2795748 CLICK on the PDF in the post - and You will see SIX pages --- I then put the stuff together.

I think currieddog is giving tips - and when he needs more of the schematics: He will ask You. In general: A picture taken with an mobile-camera with good resolution: We can use for troubleshooting --- not an good idea is "one mobile-phone-picture covers the whole schematics". Greetings Rolf

Hi pbm3
I refer to the JPG You show in post-8: Top is top, right is righthand-side. Your schematics (JPG) has the long side "top-down" - You did hold Your camera "long side of camera-viewer top down". Please hold Your camera turned 90 degrees (long side of camera-viewer covers short side of the paper-schematics) - then take some pictures of the missing parts (see my PDFs here (You may have to copy-down to Your computer to be able to look-at)). The quality of the (then) made pictures by You will be good (enough) so I can take stuff from Your pictures (adjust size, maybe turn some degrees) and insert into "my JPG-schematics" - and we finally get an complete Toledo-Schematics we can use in pinside (we do not donate to ipdb as it is not our stuff).

My first PDF shows "marked red": Important, missing areas --- my second PDF shows "marked green": Top-down (remember the orientation, post-8) I could draw missing stuff using the JPG You show in post-8 --- "marked orange": A bit on the right is missing --- please show an picture so I can draw the missing stuff.

Troubleshooting - by the way: Did You try what currieddog suggested in his post-4 ? Greetings Rolf

P.S.: The PDFs I show here in pinside are (rather) low quality - but this means: NOT MB of data uploaded.

aToledo-pinside-Tot-suppl-in-progress-01-orpalis.pdf

aToledo-pinside-Tot-suppl-in-progress-02-orpalis.pdf

Hi pbm3 +
this post is not about troubleshooting - its about schematics.
I will do some work in paintnet on Your PDF - getting rid of the huge margins - let paintnet do some "freshen-up". I then will send "my work" to You so You can donate YOUR schematics to ipdb.

It will take some time until ipdb shows a donation. Lately I read "want to look at what ipdb is doing ?" --- here http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl - all the way down, to the right "Database Change Log" - they do immense work. It will take some time until ipdb shows a donation --- in the meantime we may use the PDF I show here --- it is "post-9-PDF with added information from pbm3-schematics", You may have to copy-down to Your computer so You can look at the schematics. Greetings Rolf

0Toledo-pinside-supplemented-orpalis.pdf

Hi pbm3
(snippet from Your schematics) When You start a new game - and the Bonus-Unit happens to not beeing resetted: The pulling-in of the Reset-Relay (red dot) and the switch on the Bonus-Unit (red dot) should make the Bonus-Relay to pull-in - it should stay pulling (switch named "Bonus Re.", red dot) - the relay must be pulling until the Bonus-Unit is stepped down to Zero.

Blue dots: The pulling Bonus-Relay closes a switch - the motor is turning - motor-IMP-B pulses the Bonus-Unit-Reset-Coil rhythmically.

Question - You have some bonus on the Bonus-Unit - You start a new game - the Reset-Relay pulls-in - NOW: DOES the Bonus-Relay pull-in and stays pulling ? Greetings Rolf

0Toledo-Work-02 (resized).jpg

Hi pbm3
do You have the manual to the pin ? "Later Williams Pins" have an very good manual --- in the last pages we see drawn all relays and all the switches mounted on the relay.
Also we see in the JPG in post-20 the information: The "Normally-Open-Switch on Reset-Relay with wire-color-grey-green, wire-color-grey-blue --- locate this switch and clean the contact-points - is the switch truely closing when the relay actuates ? wires soldered-on ?
Maybe You find the fault --- maybe we must look further --- we always have to consider: A wire connecting "AA to BB" may have broken-off at the solder-lug on "AA" - but may have been broken-off at solder-lug on "BB". AND: When the "AA" is mounted on the playfield and the "BB" is mounted on the bottom-board in the cabinet: The connecing wire runs through an Jones-Plug and THERE may be the fault. Greetings Rolf

Hi pbm3
many ways to use Jumper-Wires. One way to use is: I have an connecting wire in the pin in question (good or not good) - wire-grey-green running from "Switch on Bonus-Unit" to "Switch on Reset-Relay". I have another connecting wire in the pin in question (good or not good) - wire-grey-blue running from "Switch on Reset-Relay" to "Coil on Bonus-Relay".
I toggle-off the pin, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - one Jumper-Wire and another one --- I jumper what should have permanent connection in the pin --- original wire(s) and Jumper-Wire(s) do connect the same lugs --- I plug-in, toggle-on and start a game and try - what is the pin doing ? Greetings Rolf

Hi pbm3
I gladly accept when a pin all of a sudden is fully running. Nice - You had the idea of taking one of the jumpers off to find about which side is faulty - or are accidentally both sides faulty ?

The theory "spark across" I do not believe --- electrons take the path of "less resistance" so they gladly run (99.99% of the electrons) through the jumper-wires. Another theory (right or wrong) is: "bad / cold solder-connection - and You have fumbled there attaching and taking away jumper-wires - and the solder-connection was getting a bit better - good enough".

ipdb says "Toledo, Dec 1975" and my Space Mission is "Jan 1976" - look in the manual http://www.ipdb.org/files/2253/Williams_1976_Space_Mission_Instruction_Manual_Jan_1976_no_schematics.pdf on page-16 (ori-14) and the following pages: The Jones Plugs - and in Your Toledo-Manual ? Greetings Rolf