One of the first games I ever played as a kid was Sorcerer. For some reason, I always remembered the eyes in the back of the cabinet flashing at me. As a 10 year old in an arcade, this was both mesmerizing, and creepy.

Fast forward 30+ years: a good friend of mine brings home an entire container of termite eaten pinball machines. Among them is perhaps the most decrepit Sorcerer machines I have ever seen. You could practically put your hand through the cabinet, and the backbox has split at the hinges. The whole rotten mess was sitting outside it was so bad.

So I looked at it. All the boards were there, and except for the legs, the whole thing was complete. I was going to pass on this one when fate seemed to intervine: Planetary pinball announced the release of a new backglass (the backglass on this machine was peeling badly), and a friend ( cosmokramer ) of mine was just starting to build cabinets, and he committed to building to building me a new cabinet. So I decided to take the dive... I was going to save this Sorcerer.

Here is the starting point (those with weak stomachs should look away)....

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Lucky for me, unlike other games that came out of this shipment, the playfield has been spared the termites wrath. However, it doesn't mean the playfield was perfect. No, it has more than it's share of wear spots, and lifted inserts. For this restoration, I am going to hold off on the playfield until the very last, and hope I can locate either a new one, or at least one in better condition.
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I picked up the machine in early March of 2018, and stripped out the cabinet and took it to see CosmoKramer after the Golden State Pinball Festival in May, with the promise of a new cabinet in August.

So in August, cosmokramer came through for me in a big way. Sorcerer had a new home!

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One of the things I learned in past restorations is that old plywood just sucks up the paint. However, this one is all new wood!

I honestly don't plan on spending $3,000 restoring this, but knowing me, by the time I am done, I will have close to that amount into her. Lucky for me I at least have some parts on hand to start with. I had left over high build primer from my Funhouse pinball machine, so after filling a few holes with bondo, the primer went on the machine.

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I did make one mistake during the priming process. I though my primer would last a few hours in the pot of my HVLP spray gun. Nope! It set up in under 45 minutes....
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So I got to clean a lot of gunk out of my priming gun, but I got it working again, and was able to finish.

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So this brings me to the main event... Cabinet color. I came across some oil based enamels at my local tractor supply I wanted to try out on this project.
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The stuff is priced about the same as water based acrylic paint, but is oil based. There is also a reducer and hardener available for the paint. The original was painted in oil based enamels, and the colors I will be using with the stencil are oil based enamels, so I though I would give this stuff a try.

According to the directions, you are supposed to mix this 8: 1 with the reducer. When I popped open the paint, it was nearly as thick as tar! To get it to flow, I ended up mixing it about 6: 1 with the reducer. When I sprayed it, the temperature in my shop was 90 degrees, and about 20% humidity. I did the head first as I wanted to start with a small batch. I sprayed this with my 1.4mm tip HVLP gun at about 45 psi.

The results were OK. The paint as expected took a long time to dry. Even at my high temperatures and low humidly, it took about 4 hours to dry to the touch.

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The finish was nice a glossy, but it did have a bit of orange peel in it. I blocked the sides of the head, so I know that if I had used the more expensive single stage auto paint, it would have been very shiny. At least the finished product will be very hard, and hopefully will take the stencil paint well.

Oh.... that looks nice having primered a few cabinets now, I will have to give this a try! Thanks.

Well progress has been made on the main body of the cabinet. The few nicks I found after priming were easily dealt with.

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And then came the color. I learned a lot painting the head, so this time I thinned out the paint 4: 1 with the reducer, and it flowed a lot better. I still had some orange peel, and some wood grain showed through where I missed it while sanding the primer, but overall it looks pretty good. You can definitely see the difference in the coat between the back where I only did minimal sanding, and the front and sides where I tried to block it smooth.

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I am still working on what color to use with the stencils. I painted a piece of plywood to use a test bed for the spray paints I hope to use with the stencil. I think I have found an burnt orange that will work, but I am still working on the yellow. My first attempts at using an 'almond' look too much like white. There is a 'tuscany yellow' that I am going to try next, hopefully it will be closer to the yellow on the cabinet.

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I have a new respect for the guys who can stencil a pinball machines. I think it is about four times the work then putting a decal on a machine. Tonight was the first time I’ve ever tried to apply and paint on a stencil. I think the results were OK and I hope to get better with practice.22342AD9-FF69-48AB-84C2-D820830745CE (resized).jpeg

The first problem I had was getting the stencil packing to come off. There were a few areas around the head that I had wrinkles I could not get rid of. The more complex the pattern on the stencil is, the harder it is to pull the backing off without lifting the stencil.ED9DC696-85B1-429A-AEB9-8FB0B690CE8D (resized).jpeg

After I applied the paint,I waited about 10 minutes to let it set up a little. Then I remove the stencil. A little bit of paint did bleed off onto the black, but it was nothing I could not clean up with a Q-tip dipped in thinner. There are a few spots I may go back with an X-Acto knife after the paint sets up to scrape it back. I am hoping to make all my mistakes on the head, so the body will look much better.
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I will probably let this paint set up for a week or so before I add the orange.

I put it on in about three passes. You can’t wait for the paint to dry before you remove the stencil or it will tear along the edges.

I may have laid the paint on too thick as I was trying to put down yellow over black.

One thing I learned working with neon colors on playfields, is that I tend to get the worst raised edges when I have to use two layers of paint. Most neon colors I have used are transparent paints applied over an opaque base color.

So I was really trying to avoid a dual paint setup. So much so that I choose my colors based on how they looked with a black base.9F628456-9B8B-4B53-827E-22824525951E (resized).jpeg

One think I found doing this is cheap spray paint goes on very thin. I got more color in fewer passes using rustoleum in all cases.

Ok, I took on the left side of the head this morning, and the results were much better. I really took my time taking the backing off the stencil, and I had a lot less problems with it pulling up.
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After reading through the suggestions, I decided to put the paint on in 5 lighter coats with about 7 minutes between coats. The raised edges were not as bad as the right side, but there were some. I pulled the stencil off after about 10 minutes, and had only minor tearing around some of the heavier edges.
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I am really liking this color. The color is a dark yellow that with the black under it almost looks tan (Rustoleum Tuscan Sun). It is pretty close to the stock color.

More progress today. One thing I discovered is that some rustoleum paint dries fast! I had issues with edges tearing for the first time.

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So I finished the stencil painting on the cabinet today.

The head was a lot easier to paint compared to the cabinet. I tried painting the cabinet in the upright position, but what I found is that it was a lot easier for the paint to run. I found the best way to paint was with the surface flat, and then turn it upright to remove the stencil.

The paint job is far from perfect. I keep having to remind myself that it looks miles better than the original cabinet.
It could best be described as a '5 foot' paint job. Meaning it perhaps looks best from 5 feet away.... There are a few minor runs I may try to sand down after the paint cures, and recoat them with my airbrush.

I have come to a couple of conclusions after working with the spray paint and old school enamel on this one.

1. It is pretty difficult to get uniform coverage from spray paint without putting too much paint on. My best coats were the last couple I put on. The volume of paint coming out of the spray can varies as the paint runs out.

2. Don't expect a show quality paint job from cheap paint. I think I spent a total of $70 on the paint for this cabinet, and it shows. One reasons so many people use automotive paint is that is lays down better, dries quicker, and overall gives a better finish.

3. Cabinet stenciling is wayyy harder than applying a decal.

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Just a reminder, this is the 'before' picture.
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Update:

Well I have put a hold on this project for the moment. I have a Funhouse I would really like to get done so I can focus my full attention on Sorcerer. I also need to save up some funds for the rails and legs. I was going to buy them last week, but then my computer had to go and eat it's own video card.

I am also hoping during my wait that CPR will move forward with a playfield. I understand there are overlays out there, but I have experience with the vendor who sells them. It was not a good one, and I have (like so many other) been banned for life from buying from him.

Unless you have better information that I do, I was under the impression he was considering it, but had not committed to doing a run yet. He even admitted he didn't have a good playfield to scan yet.

Well here it is straight from the horses mouth... Im looking forward to seeing the new playfields.

While I appreciate Mirco's efforts on the behalf of Sorcerer owners everywhere, I have had fate intervene on my playfield situation. Yesterday a box arrived from Canada with one very nicely restored Sorcerer playfield.

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Yes, this is the very last Sorcerer playfield that John Greatwich restored. He was kind enough to sell it to me for my restoration. While it may not look as good as the upcoming Mirco playfield, I think it will go very well with my new cabinet.

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So now at last the new legs and rails are on order from Pinball Life, and as soon as I get Funhouse wrapped up, Sorcerer will be the next on on the rotisserie.

There is still one piece of the restoration puzzle I need for this game: New plastics. I am hoping CPR or Mirco will come through soon with new reproductions. At least the plastics will be something that can easily be added later if they are not available in time for me to finish this restoration.

Well the winter chill is finally leaving my shop. I was actually able to spend the day out there today and got a lot done.

I focused on the cabinet wiring today for the most part. I was able to get the transformers mounted back up, and the plate with the tilt and bell assemblies are also ready to be mounted back up.

IMG_8582 (resized).JPG The transformer board was pretty gross. I took everything off of it, and gave it a fresh coat of paint, and put all the wiring harness through my sonic cleaner. I then ran all new ground braid. The finished board looked much better.

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I also did some work on the cabinet side plat that holds the tilt, bell, and volume reostat. It wasn't in too bad of shape, and it cleaned up pretty easily.

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After the cabinet harness went through the dishwasher, I got everything mounted back up.

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I also got started on the ground strap in the cabinet, and got the transformer plate mounted back up.

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Tomorrow I am hoping to get the plate mounted up in the cabinet. I may have to take some measurements off my old cabinet to get it in the correct location.

At least you started with a decent cabinet... I got lucky with finding someone to build me a cabinet.

Well at least I got a solid chunk of this restoration done over the weekend. With the flu running through my house, I am not be this productive for another couple of weeks.

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After having successfully passed the National Land Surveying Principles and Practice exam, my weekends are now free again to work on pinball machines... That is until I get registered for the California State exam.

In the meantime I have returned the wiring to the head and unsuccessfully tried to power the Sorcerer up...C2EA6137-5E20-4138-9078-01E5C25616E0 (resized).jpeg

This is one thing I thought would be a problem when I decided to gut the old cabinet... I generally don’t like to gut a machine until I know it at least works. That was not really possible with this machine because of the poor condition it was in.

So the main board spent a week or so my bench getting straightened out.

The board would appear to boot, and a 0 would display in the status LED, but nothing else was working: no displays, no controlled light or coils... so it may have been booting, but nothing was working...

The problem turned out to be the Blanking signal was not present, and the board was jumpered wrong. If the blanking signal is missing, nothing will work. This is by design however. Williams designed the board to more or less shut down if the output P2 on U5 wasn’t present. So it the board crashes, or otherwise malfunctions, this is supposed to me a fail safe to keep all the coils from locking on, and doing damage.

Well P2 on U5 was floating... partly because U9 (the display strobe generator) was dead... so I replaced both U5 and U9... However the board still would not boot into audit mode.. The problem turned out to be the board was jumpered incorrectly. The Sorcerer U20 rom is only 64kb. To support this chip, W11 needs to be connected, and U12 disconnected. My board had U12 connected. So after I fixed that ... It booted!8E6D672A-E9C2-4E08-B42F-AA3509AD1C9C (resized).jpeg

I’m not out of the woods yet on the boards... I noticed when it boots the displays flicker when the switch is thrown, and the flipper relay clicks... this means the reset circuit is not working. I will have to figure that out before the playfield goes back in. Also I noticed someone has replaced the K1 relay with a 28v coil, the 5v power supply has about 1v of AC wave, and the +100v circuit is running at 118v under load.

So I need to rebuild the HV section of the power supply and recap it as well. I also and going to replace K1 with a proper 6v relay. I may take the opportunity to install mosfets in the lighting section to eliminate the large resistors. I also need to add fuses to the coil power supply to protect the transformers.

All of this will have to wait until after the Golden State Pinball Festival! I will be tech’ing, so say hi to me if you see me in my red shirt.

Yes, I bought one last year when Planetary Pinball did a run of new back glasses. It is still sitting in the a box in my shop.

Honestly I don’t know, I haven’t taken it out of the box.

Yup, I have a set of those sitting on my workbench, waiting for me to modify my rotisserie to fit 42" playfields.

Ok, the GSPF was a great time, but now it is time to get back to work on Sorcerer....

I have finally put the playfield on the rotisserie. I was delayed in doing this because I discovered that when I installed the rotisserie, I set it up for 46" long playfields, like the one found in my Funhouse. The Sorcerer Playfield is only 42 inches long. So I had to buy some more 1/2" steel pipe to get it to fit.

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I am not sure what bugs called this playfield home, but they made a mess...

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So new I need to pull everything off this playfield and start getting things cleaned up.

Progress...the wiring harnesses are off and ready for the dishwasher.
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And today the harnesses made a trip through the dishwasher.

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So on to the new playfield... First I wired up the GI..this is the first time I have worked with stapled GI wire. It went down easier than I thought it would.71A70F0D-0EA1-4516-BD52-3198B86CCAED (resized).jpegFF4C37BD-C6EB-49F5-B24E-F40CECAFA3D4 (resized).jpeg

Next I fitted the Reese’s rails I picked up a few months back. The stock rails are a light wood color, and the new rails are black. I really like the look of the black rails.
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Next the playfield will go back in n the rotisserie to start repopulating the backside.

It’s a John Greatwich restoration. Until this year, he was the only source for rested playfields.

I made some progress over the long weekend. The switch harness is back on this weekend.

I’ve run into an issue with the light harness. A lot of the light sockets are corroded pretty bad, so I need to order new ones.

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So I addressed something tonight that has been bugging me since I bought the new playfield from John. During the process of applying the overlay to the playfield, John first puts a coat of white paint on the playfield to make the colors stand out better. The results are pretty good, but the registration between the white paint layer and the overlay sometimes is not perfect. It was especially bothering me around the pop-bumpers and top roll overs.

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I thought about painting the white over, but worried about the paint not sticking to the overlay. So then I came across a post where someone had used wood grain vinyl to cover over the white in the pop-bumper area. I have an HP 4600 scanner I use when working on playfields, and I recently purchased a Cameo vinyl cutter. So I decided to combine the two and create covers for the white around the pop-bumpers and the top roll overs.

After I scanned the playfield, I used Cameo Studio to trace over areas I wanted to cut out. It took me about 30 minutes to get the vinyl ready to cut.
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It turns out the hardest part for me was finding a wood grain vinyl that didn't clash too much with the natural wood on the playfield. I settled on a maple vinyl I got from Amazon.

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The pop-bumper covers came out pretty well. I put them down much like you apply decals to a cabinet. I lined them up, and then taped them at one end. I then peeled them back and removed as much of the decal back as I could, and pressed the vinyl down. I then removed the tape, and removed the remainder of the decal backer, and pressed the whole thing down. I think the end results look pretty good.

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I pretty much followed the same procedure when laying down the vinyl around the top roll overs. I used tape to hold the vinyl in place, and then removed the backing.

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Having the pop-bumper areas match the roll overs I think makes it look a little more natural.
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I think once I get the pop-bumper bodies on the playfield, it will be hard to notice I used vinyl around the bumpers and roll overs.
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The roll overs at the bottom end of the playfield are not as bad as the upper ones were, but I did scan then, and I will be cutting vinyl to go around them.

that is a good idea. I have some mylar, I just need to figure out how to mount it in my Cameo cutter.

I think it is a personal preference thing. I didn't like the look of the white.

Well I got the light harness and power harness on the playfield today. The coils are also mounted, so it is about time to a power up test!
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So I was able to move the cabinet next to the work bench, and powered up my playfield.

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I started with just the GI, the. I connected the lights, the switch matrix, and finally the coil power.

Almost everything works! The only issue I found was I am missing a column of lights, and I’m about 90% sure the problem is in the MPU.

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So next the playfield goes back into the cabinet, and the long neglected coin door will get some attention.

The outside of the coin door was stripped and repainted with an initial coat of rustoleum hammer finish paint, followed up with a coat of satin black. The results were pretty good.97B769EC-517E-4BE9-84C9-D59B8391B203 (resized).jpeg

The inside of the door wasn’t as easy to fix up, I stripped down the whole thing to clean it, but I don’t think it will ever look new, unless all the parts are replated. Still, at least it is clean.36A1CA7E-8985-4CAA-876D-2DE486B8C9EE (resized).jpeg

So I did something today that I should have done 6 months ago... I unpacked my new backglass!

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Need less to say I was rather relieved that it was in one piece, and the proper backglass. I got it from Planetary Pinball, so I was not really worried that it was the wrong glass.

It mounted up pretty nicely. I do need to clean up and adjust my backboard through.

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I tend to cycle through machines pretty regularly. So once it’s done, I will probably hold on to it for 6 months and then sell it.

I got her up and flipping this evening. It was nice to finally get a few games in after nearly a year of work. So far I have found a few switches that need adjusting, but nothing too major.

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The next thing I want to address is the apron. The color on the existing apron doesn’t look bad, but the clear coat on it is pretty cracked up. Right now I have a choice... I know where I can get a nice looking near original apron for $50, or I could repaint the one I have. Decisions... decisions...271B510B-4173-44CA-B76E-5115CB3255EF (resized).jpeg

So we have decided to repaint the apron. I scanned the whole thing last night, and started the sanding. The paint was a lot thinner than I expected, and I am hoping to get the black base coat on tomorrow.

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Repaint the apron has reminded me how much I dislike spray paint. The only way to get a decent finish is to spend time polishing between coats. But the black base coat is almost done.

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So I finally have the black base coat more or less finished. So I have turned my attention to the graphics on the apron. The apron was originally painted with a two color silk screen. My original plan was to use Silhouette cutter to cut the paint mask to put down the yellow, and then to put down the red. Then it dawned on me that if I am going to use the cutter for the paint masks, why not just cut yellow and red glossy vinyl for the graphics? It would save me having to try to use a stencil to paint the very small lettering.

So the first step was to convert my stencils to cut my stencil files out in yellow and red on my Silhouette Cameo. I added some more registration marks to make lining up the two colors easier.

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Then I had to cut out the files, and remove the extra yellow and red from the sheets so I just had the graphics and registration marks left on my paper. This turned out to be harder than expected, as the small letters tended to want to pull up with the extra vinyl around them. I ruined one set of yellow vinyl, and had to recut it. I ended up putting the small lettering on the right hand side on its own sheet so I could work with it alone.

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Finally I had the red and yellow all cut out and ready to go. The vinyl came on rolls, so I put the finished cut pieces between two pieces of pinball glass overnight to get them to lay straight, and not roll up on me.
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After the vinyl is all cut, you then have to apply the transfer tape over the top of the graphics. This is what will hold everything in place while you line it up. This is best done on a flat piece of glass (like a pinball playfield glass!). So today my fish tales pulled double duty as a workbench...
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Then comes the difficult task of lining everything up and applying the first layer of vinyl... I did it a lot like to do pinball cabinet decals. I lined every thing up, and held in place with tape while I peeled back the decal backing, and then smooted everything into place.
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So the yellow went down fairly easily. I just had to be carefully removing the transfer tape so I didn't take my graphics with it.

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And yes, my Black Hole pulled duty as a work bench to day as well... The lighting was better over the Black Hole.

Red was not as easy as the yellow was to put down. I tried alighning the red graphics with my registration marks and discovered they would not line up. I think the issue was the yellow graphics my had a slight fold in them when they went down. Do I decided to split the red graphics up into three separate sheets, and apply them one at a time. I cut little reference windows in the red vinyl backing to help me get everything lined up. Here is the largest sheet ready to go down. Notice the little holes around the circle? Those are my reference holes I cut to make sure everything lined up.

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After I got the first piece piece of red vinyl down, I was pretty confident I was going to be able to get the rest of them down without issues.

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And finally, I put put the small lettering in place. The only issue I had was with the 'TM' that appears after 'Lane Change'.. Other than that, it looks pretty good. I don't think I would have been able to do as well had I tried to paint on these graphics.
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So there it is, the apron is done...

That is correct. I’m using oracal 651 vinyl.

So I cleaned up and repainted the light board yesterday... It turned out pretty good.

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I typically do not replace the light sockets on the backboard unless they are really bad. In this case I just used a dremel tool to clean them out. I then replaced all the GI with LEDs. The GI circuits always pull the most amperage and produce the most heat, so I like to reduce the load on the circuit (and thus the heat it produces) by installing LEDs. I did not put LEDs in the light matrix circuits because it relies alot on fading when doing light shows.
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I think this one is just about done. I may do one more update with pictures of the final product early next week.

Thanks for the vote of confidence guys..

Yes, this machine will be going over the Pacific to Australia in the near future. I'm glad it will go to a collection where it will be played and appreciated.

Well I am closing the books on this one. I packed up Sorcerer last night and drove it down to LA to an exporter today.

Over all this was a fun restoration. It played fast and furious when it was done. If I got the chance, I’d restore another system 9 machine.

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I received word this morning that the machine is finally in Australia, and in punkin 's possession. It seems to have made it in one piece.

Wow, that machine really has gotten around.

I used gloss black spray paint. I think it way krylon. It worked out pretty well.

That is the ground strap that goes to the head. There should be threaded stud in the head with a wing nut on it. The loop goes over the stud, and is held down by the wing nut. Ive attached a photo showing where it attached on my sorcerer. Note: this photo was taken before I had the new cabinet built.

C597DE4D-7379-4E66-B8CE-891C912EF7AA (resized).jpeg