(Topic ID: 4031)

To Mylar or Not To Mylar


By CplusE

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by examiner
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    #1 9 years ago

    New Question!

    Is it better to play your pin with or without Mylar? I thought Mylar was to protect the playfield but I’m reading some are saying it slows down the ball. The reason I was asking I’m about to fix my bumper and both sling shots. So I decided to clean the playfield to and im seeing dirt on the edges of the mylar in some area’s, and little bubbles where the lights are. So first im waiting to find a new mylar to replace the old. But in the mean time I was thinking is it ok to play without it once I’m done. Or am I asking for trouble.

    I bought Navus 2 and California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax, to clean and wax the field.

    #2 9 years ago

    Mylar is fine - until dirt gets underneath or the inserts start bubbling. That's when it starts to drive me crazy. Yes, it's there to protect the playfield, and yes - I think it slows down the balls. But sometimes you gotta give a little to get a little....

    You'll be fine to play without the mylar protectors. Wax the area and you are good to go. As far as replacement, that's up to you - a lot of folks will recommend replacement of the high wear areas (like in front of slings), but others don't think it's necessary in a home use environment.

    Just be careful and research the methods for removing the mylar. Don't just grab a curled corner and pull or you will regret it immensely......

    #3 9 years ago

    Ok thank you. Ya i have been watching as much as i can about removing it with air dust cleaner.

    Thanks again.

    #4 9 years ago

    Mylar is not my favorite, I only like to have it in high traffic areas (pop bumpers) that are not visible. It does affect the play and look of a machine especially one that was not well cared for. Removing it can be tricky patience is key if you don't want to lift up paint.

    #5 9 years ago

    after removing mylars and searching for various parts i came across a product made by pinball pal called stealth protectors. i have some on my fishtales it does not seem to slow the ball as much. here is the link. http://pinballpal.com/stealth/. they say they do not stick as bad if you have to remove them i havent had any problems yet.

    #6 9 years ago
    Quoted from cevans82:

    http://pinballpal.com/stealth/. they say they do not stick as bad if you have to remove them i havent had any problems yet.

    Good call! I also have used these without any issue. I put them on any spot that gets a lot of ware and they stay down pretty well but also come up super easy when you are trying to remove them.

    #7 9 years ago

    Mylar sucks! Slow and gets dirty quick.
    I just removed the play field mylar from Diner tonight. I started using the freeze spray but it left too much glue to clean so I used a hair dryer and that worked good. I did lose some of the insert art but I'm replacing all the insert art decals so I didn't care if some came off. I'll be clear coating later this week. It's a lot of work to get the glue off with goo gone.
    I've been taking alot of pictures to get it back together so I will have alot to show you when I'm done. So far so good.

    #8 9 years ago

    I second the stealth mylar. Have had no issues yet after a year and half.

    #9 9 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    I second the stealth mylar.

    Same. I also like the flipper button protectors. Same material but you can get in black or clear.

    #10 9 years ago

    cevans82 SOLD!

    Great info, everyone has been really helpful , more then all of you can imagine. Makes it more exciting.

    The info helps in taking the fear away of taking the pin apart. If i have any issue i can come back here. I'm going to order the stealth today and test dust freeze, and goo gone. If i have any other issue i use hair dryer.

    I agree on flipper button protectors great for when my hand are wet and putting my beer in holder great site.

    #11 9 years ago

    NO PROBLEM! glad i could helpits a great product. goodluck with your project. i had help from some friends on that sale so i wont take full credit

    #12 9 years ago
    Quoted from CplusE:

    and test dust freeze, and goo gone

    I did a full mylar removal on my Pinbot last week using freeze spray. I just found it to be real important to get a good "edge" lifted. Once I did that, it was a piece of cake. About 4 hours with goo gone (PITA) and I was done.

    For my purposes, I'm not putting any replacement mylar down or CC the playfield. But it's a lightly played machine. It'll look so much better when you are done (and play better too). Good luck!

    #13 9 years ago
    Quoted from cevans82:

    after removing mylars and searching for various parts i came across a product made by pinball pal called stealth protectors. i have some on my fishtales it does not seem to slow the ball as much. here is the link. http://pinballpal.com/stealth/. they say they do not stick as bad if you have to remove them i havent had any problems yet.

    i've installed 3 flipper button protector kits on 3 machines..and i do use their sheets. i enjoy this material...but i do use the 'real' mylar as well. good way for saving your decals and playfields.

    1 week later
    #14 9 years ago

    Needing a little help!

    I got the Mylar off. But I'm going to have to take some partS off to get the rest. But I started on main middle pin, and I'm having a hard time getting this glue up. I'm spraying go gone , gel spray version. And it hard to get up. Is there a better way or what kind of rag would help pick up the glue better because at this rate I been here doing this for a week. HELP!

    #15 9 years ago

    I've heard of using dryer sheets to get up the glue. Seems it is abrasive without being too abrasive.

    #16 9 years ago
    Quoted from CplusE:

    what kind of rag would help pick up the glue better

    I told CplusE in a PM that rags typically won't cut it until the very last stage. For the first couple of passes at the glue, you need to carefully use a plastic scraper of some sort. Let the goo gone sit for awhile (up to 30 min) then attack it (gently) with a scraper.

    After about 2 cycles of that (gg/scrape), you should have 99% of it off, and then you can tackle it with a rag and a quick naptha rubdown.

    Then - if you take the time to hit it with a quick coat of wax - if there is any glue left, the wax won't stick to it, and you can easily see whatever little spots you may have missed. At that point I just rubbed the remaining glue off with my fingertips.

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