Nip-It
Bally, 1973You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mbwalker.
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Evaporust for a win...
I do tend to sometime give it a polish to prevent any new rust forming
Sometimes I tumble the smaller pieces for a little bit with a small amount of Nu-Finish (similar) added to help coat the parts.
Still a newbie, so I'm still learning.
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Quoted from PinballGurus:Not too bad.
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Evaporust or something else?
Quoted from PinballGurus:So I got the score motor running, but one of the rollers on a leaf broke off immediately. Anyone know were to find more or is it even repairable? I doubt it.
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If you can't find one, just get another leaf and some small pop rivets - should get you going again.
Mind posting a pic of where it broke off from?
Quoted from PinballGurus:Can anyone tell me how this coin door is supposed to be wired? I’m having trouble understanding the schematic since there’s multiple coin switches and the schematic has Red/White and I have White/Red, but I’m assuming they ran out at the factory??? I only need one working. Thanks
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I have maybe a dozen high res pics of a Bally EM Freedom (Just sold it Sat, but can get more pictures) coin door guts. 1976 era, but looks the same. No clue if it is exact or not, especially the wiring. PM me your normal e-mail and I will send (sorry, can't attach pics to a PM).
Hopes this helps.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from PinballGurus:Anyone have any ideas on how I could safely replicate this before I put it back out into the world? I keep thinking plaster of Paris, but I’m a little unsure since there’s probably better products these days??? Mostly worried about the paint. I’m just trying to make a mold I can cast into brass or some metal later.
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Something like this? https://medium.com/jaycon-systems/the-complete-guide-to-diy-molding-resin-casting-4921301873ad
I've never done this, but looks like you could make the mold based on the inside of the part, leaving the painted side alone? Then by using the first mold, create the final mold from that?
Quoted from PinballGurus:This on the left here. DMM 1/2 WATT???
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What's the format of other resistors on the schematic?
Quoted from PinballGurus:Not sure what you’re asking?
Usually the schematic follows the same format. So the upper text might be a value, the next lower text could be a RefDes (i.e. R123) or location, while the 3rd down looks like it indicates the wattage. So check another resistor on the schematic to figure which text is the value and try to go from there.
Might be a moot point if you figured out the value. Looks like the upper text is '8200' ohms.
Quoted from PinballGurus:Ugh. Learning slowly...
Praying this is the solution.
Boy, I admit you really have 'dug your feet in' w/respect to fixing this pin. Kudos to you, been an interesting read. Ditto to everyone that helped too.
Guru,
Maybe you can try to look at it from a different angle. Hopefully this wasn't covered before and I missed it.
Instead of mechanically checking the switches, how about using your multimeter and measuring across relay contacts (looking for voltages or the absence of voltages) to try to narrow down the culprit? Would that help? i.e. "I shouldn't have a voltage on this contact because these other switches should be open." type of troubleshooting.
Quoted from PinballGurus:That’s initially how I started testing, but I quickly found that it’s not reliable on an EM game as a contact that’s not in contact will beep anyways if it’s connected down the line.
Got a scope?
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