(Topic ID: 238603)
Linked Games
Nip-It
Bally, 1973
Topic Gallery
Salem, OR
Quoted from PinballGurus:Can anyone tell me how this coin door is supposed to be wired? I’m having trouble understanding the schematic since there’s multiple coin switches and the schematic has Red/White and I have White/Red, but I’m assuming they ran out at the factory??? I only need one working. Thanks
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I have maybe a dozen high res pics of a Bally EM Freedom (Just sold it Sat, but can get more pictures) coin door guts. 1976 era, but looks the same. No clue if it is exact or not, especially the wiring. PM me your normal e-mail and I will send (sorry, can't attach pics to a PM).
Hopes this helps.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngNot seeing anything about the player unit. #6 says the “with score reel and bonus stepper reset, the reset relay will de-energize and the score motor should stop.”
Quoted from PinballGurus:[quoted image]
it may be that extra spring in the armature is causing the motor to "over-run"
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#motor
Score Motor Brake.
Bally and Williams used a different brake system where the motor's armature disengages from the gear box when power is cut to the motor. This way the armature can continue to spin without turning the gears.
If I hold in the armature when the score motor is running it will not stop (I have to do it with my slippery fingernail, if I use my fatty finger it will stop)
it appears that is some kind of spring-clip that holds the brass bushing the the housing & there is also a washer in there
hope this helps
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I tried several different springs. Nothing... on my machine originally the bushing held the motor in place, but the teeth broke off so that’s why I added the spring. Honestly, I don’t see it being able to be pushed in with the original bushing entact. I’m really thinking the issue is my player unit since it doesn’t seem to respond to anything.
Quoted from PinballGurus:After the paper towels failed. It’s been sitting it a bath now for 13 hours, still tons of rust, been brushing it off every so often. I’ll check again tomorrow afternoon and report back.
I did the the scoring reel to finally start spinning, but the motor seems difficult to turn, better after oiling; hoping that’s normal?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
https://i1.pinside.com/4/02/4022e56d8af02ec0170326d0408b74dd7d885309/resized/740/4022e56d8af02ec0170326d0408b74dd7d885309.jpeg.jpg
the image in this post looks correct.
when I reassembled the parts from the pics I just posted I tested the machine and things seemed sluggish so I un-loosened the two screws a bit & ran until things meshed better. after that I snugged them down again and things worked smoothly again.
My finger on the shaft shows me pushing in the shaft in to engage the gear. you should see it pull in on its own when power is applied. The original spring disengages the gear when power is removed.
When I was asking about "the extra spring" you mentioned, I was referencing from the video you posted in post #48
I just noticed your motor is different or I’m understanding it incorrectly. My motor shaft doesn’t spin freely in the brass; it’s stuck in it. I’m assuming the brass piece is supposed to float in the bushing and the motor spins inside it?
Thanks for your help. What you’re saying makes perfect sense now that I understand the motor spins in the brass, the brass doesn’t spin the motor in the bushing. Derp!
Quoted from chas10e:https://i1.pinside.com/4/02/4022e56d8af02ec0170326d0408b74dd7d885309/resized/740/4022e56d8af02ec0170326d0408b74dd7d885309.jpeg.jpg
the image in this post looks correct.
when I reassembled the parts from the pics I just posted I tested the machine and things seemed sluggish so I un-loosened the two screws a bit & ran until things meshed better. after that I snugged them down again and things worked smoothly again.
My finger on the shaft shows me pushing in the shaft in to engage the gear. you should see it pull in on its own when power is applied. The original spring disengages the gear when power is removed.
When I was asking about "the extra spring" you mentioned, I was referencing from the video you posted in post #48
Quoted from PinballGurus:Alternatively, does anyone know where I can get the bushing for that motor? This entire part in photo? Not sure if it’s called a bushing?[quoted image]
Try Grainger they might have parts for those type motors.
Quoted from PinballGurus:Alternatively, does anyone know where I can get the bushing for that motor? This entire part in photo? Not sure if it’s called a bushing?[quoted image]
Try pinball resource - you won't see parts necessarily on their pages but if anyone has it, they will.
that spring doesn't belong in there, that is what is causing to motor to "over run".
further reading http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#motor
""The Motor's Brake.
If your motor has this spring loaded armature system, it is *very* important to check that this is working! If the spring is broken, the motor can coast past the position it was intended to stop. This can cause all sorts of problems (like a motor that never stops running, or game features that don't reset properly). ""
I see what had broken , looks like some kind of "internal tooth lock washer" but kind of large.
Quoted from slochar:Try pinball resource - you won't see parts necessarily on their pages but if anyone has it, they will.
I would imagine Stave Young at Pinball resource would have that part. but I don't know what it would be called exactly. perhaps "end bearing yoke assembly" ? for a Bally Nip-It score motor ?
Could also ask in the EM parts request thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-em-seeking-parts-thread
The motor works great now, but still won’t stop. Going to try to add two washers as a spacer to compensate for the width of the washer in case it’s not allowing it to move left enough, etc.
1 week later
I’ve unplugged all the Jones plugs, replaced motor, and game still won’t stop. Any ideas where I should start now?
Quoted from PinballGurus:I’ve unplugged all the Jones plugs, replaced motor, and game still won’t stop. Any ideas where I should start now?
Quoted from PinballGurus:I’m assuming the issue must be in the score motor stack?
These are the switches that keep the score motor running. If it's not a mechanical problem put slips of paper in them to find out which one is the cause.
Pinball (resized).pngQuoted from HowardR:These are the switches that keep the score motor running. If it's not a mechanical problem put slips of paper in them to find out which one is the cause.
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I looked at the schematic here & tried something, I opened the coin door to my Wiggler and held the coin switch down and that kept the motor running as it activated the knocker & the credit wheel. ( it was the only machine I had without the wire guard.)
When the credit wheel reached its limit(25) the knocker stopped, the credit wheel stopped trying to advance but the motor kept spinning.
You’re the man. That schematic really helped me understand how it works; got it stopped. It turned out to be the 500 point relay. I had no idea all of those switches controlled the motor, but I do now. Thanks again!!!
Quoted from HowardR:These are the switches that keep the score motor running. If it's not a mechanical problem put slips of paper in them to find out which one is the cause.
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Quoted from PinballGurus:You’re the man. That schematic really helped me understand how it works; got it stopped. It turned out to be the 500 point relay. I had no idea all of those switches controlled the motor, but I do now. Thanks again!!!
Glad I could help and thanks for upvoting my post!
Now I’m just down to a few easy problems.
It’s popping out two balls, so I’m assuming that’s an adjustment issue.
The EM pinball guide recommends using high tap and lots of waxing if you do. Anyone else have an opinion on this?
Quoted from PinballGurus:The EM pinball guide recommends using high tap and lots of waxing if you do. Anyone else have an opinion on this?
With your customers budget, and all your work, are going to make anything on this?
Not so much. 
I learned a ton though and got to restore an old vintage pin. I like Solid State, but I had so many people with EM’s, I had to try it.
Quoted from Daditude:With your customers budget, and all your work, are going to make anything on this?
Anyone have any ideas on how I could safely replicate this before I put it back out into the world? I keep thinking plaster of Paris, but I’m a little unsure since there’s probably better products these days??? Mostly worried about the paint. I’m just trying to make a mold I can cast into brass or some metal later.
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Quoted from PinballGurus:Anyone have any ideas on how I could safely replicate this before I put it back out into the world? I keep thinking plaster of Paris, but I’m a little unsure since there’s probably better products these days??? Mostly worried about the paint. I’m just trying to make a mold I can cast into brass or some metal later.
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Something like this? https://medium.com/jaycon-systems/the-complete-guide-to-diy-molding-resin-casting-4921301873ad
I've never done this, but looks like you could make the mold based on the inside of the part, leaving the painted side alone? Then by using the first mold, create the final mold from that?
Pinball Life has repros, not particularly inexpensive, however.
https://www.pinballlife.com/nip-it-alligator-plastic.html
Don C.
Quoted from PinballGurus:Anyone know what causes two or more balls to pop out?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1972-fireball-puts-2-balls-in-shooter-lane-at-once
I had this problem before and it was a bad saucer (ball lock). The machine would put a ball in the shooter lane then immediately think it got locked in a saucer & launch the 2'nd ball in the shooter lane.
Quoted from PinballGurus:The EM pinball guide recommends using high tap and lots of waxing if you do. Anyone else have an opinion on this?
member @nicovolta made a post here about "high tapping" https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nics-american-pinball-tour-aka-im-coming-to-fix-your-games/page/21#post-3870907
Back in the day the power grid wasn't as stable as it is today and high tapping was a possible solution for an actual low power situation in some seedy bar.
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