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(Topic ID: 238603)

To Fix or Not to Fix?


By PinballGurus

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 254 posts
  • 35 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PinballGurus
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Fix?”

  • Yes 40 votes
    75%
  • No 13 votes
    25%

(53 votes)

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There are 254 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 6.
#1 1 year ago

I have a Nip It machine a guy wants fixed and has a $1k budget. The machine is in good condition externally, but internally it’s has moisture and mice chewing wires. The wires I can deal with, but is the rust fixable? Or where can I find these parts to replace or an entire internal board, etc.

Any advice would he appreciated.

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#2 1 year ago

Certainly some pretty strong rust (seaside location?) on various components but in my experience Evaporust (lots of posts on Pinside) would do the trick although I would be fairly cautious with the transformer. It looks to be all there so certainly fixable but it comes down to how much time you want to put into it. Is it a friend or commercial transaction re the $1k?

#3 1 year ago

Kinda both, so I wanted to give it the college try. Ultimately he just wants a playable game, doesn’t mind the rust, etc.

Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll see if I can find some.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGurus:

Kinda both, so I wanted to give it the college try. Ultimately he just wants a playable game, doesn’t mind the rust, etc.
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll see if I can find some.

Pep Boys carries Evapo-Rust

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGurus:

Kinda both, so I wanted to give it the college try. Ultimately he just wants a playable game, doesn’t mind the rust, etc.
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll see if I can find some.

27.99 / gallon at Harbor Freight, and don't forget to use their ubiquitous 20% off coupon.

#6 1 year ago

Rust doesn't really 'need' to be fixed.

#7 1 year ago

That's easy money. Parts won't be that much. Most of the bill will be your hourly rate.

#8 1 year ago

Go for it, 'specially since he's not concerned about looks. Very satisfying to get a game going again!!

#9 1 year ago

Oof, looks rough, but to be honest it’s easily fixable by the looks of it.
Underside of playfield looks good, and most of the rust doesn’t need to be dealt with to be honest.
Clean the relay plates where they come into contact with the coil, the rust interferes with that. The switches don’t really rust, and the transformer looks shot, replace it.

I just finished my Mars Trek and I’m posting the thread soon. The rust inside it was worse than this. I actually went extremely deep and derusted almost every part and sanded and ground everything down to bare metal. I’m
Neurotic like that. But if it is merely a bracket and doesn’t provide a “function” AND you don’t see it then I left it rusty.

The game simply needs to play, and not look like shit. If the underside is in proper working order, then I don’t mind some rusty screws and some brackets that won’t interfere with the operation at any time.

Save it and make the money! Evaporust is amazing, only you have to treat the metal immediately after it’s removed, else it rusts again right before your eyes.

It’s mainly going to be a lot of time, I made sure my game worked properly before disassembly and rust removal.

Good luck!

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I made sure my game worked properly before disassembly and rust removal.

Good advice from isochronic_frost . I upvoted your post.

#11 1 year ago

Exactly what I wanted to do was test the machine to see if I could get anything going before spending the hours on the rust. Does anyone have a “readable” schematic link? The one I found is too small to read after printing. I really appreciate the help on this and will be sure to update my progress as I go.

#12 1 year ago

Found it at Walmart online and had my local auto parts store, O’Reilly, price match.

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#13 1 year ago

Is that rust from mouse pee??

Playfield looks good. Workings in the cabinet look horrible. Doesn’t look salvageable IMHO.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Evaporust is amazing, only you have to treat the metal immediately after it’s removed, else it rusts again right before your eyes.

I've seen this posted before. I'll say this. I've restored many machines, most all of them with varying levels of rust. I have used Evaporust on every single one of them and not in one single case has the rust returned, much less rusted right before my eyes. I think sometimes people don't leave the parts in long enough. I never leave them in less than 24 hours.

On this game, I'd fix it in a heartbeat, especially if the balligator is present and working. I restored a Bally Odds and Evens that is not nearly as desirable as Nip It and the rust was way worse. Game looked like it had been in a flood. I got rid of all the rust on every relay and stepper and it played great.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I've seen this posted before. I'll say this. I've restored many machines, most all of them with varying levels of rust. I have used Evaporust on every single one of them and not in one single case has the rust returned, much less rusted right before my eyes. I think sometimes people don't leave the parts in long enough. I never leave them in less than 24 hours.
On this game, I'd fix it in a heartbeat, especially if the balligator is present and working. I restored a Bally Odds and Evens that is not nearly as desirable as Nip It and the rust was way worse. Game looked like it had been in a flood. I got rid of all the rust on every relay and stepper and it played great.

I left a pair of legs in a solution of evaporust for a week with a circulator pump and a heater at 160F
Took the legs out and wiped them down and immediately they started rusting in a room with less than 10% humidity.

How do you treat the parts after you remove them from evaporust? Any particular oils or anything you put on them?

#16 1 year ago

I have found on certain parts eg lockdown receivers if I clearcoat after evaporusting it gives good protection without return of the rust.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I left a pair of legs in a solution of evaporust for a week with a circulator pump and a heater at 160F
Took the legs out and wiped them down and immediately they started rusting in a room with less than 10% humidity.
How do you treat the parts after you remove them from evaporust? Any particular oils or anything you put on them?

Nothing. I take them out of the Evaporust, wash them off with water, and then dry them thoroughly. I have found that if you leave any of the solution or water on them, they will rust a bit, but it's basically surface and it will wipe off.

Quite often I will finish off with metal polish so maybe that's part of it too, but I've never had any issues with flash rusting.

#18 1 year ago

IF you have an Ollies store location near you, usually they stock Evaporust for very cheap.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I left a pair of legs in a solution of evaporust for a week with a circulator pump and a heater at 160F
Took the legs out and wiped them down and immediately they started rusting in a room with less than 10% humidity.
How do you treat the parts after you remove them from evaporust? Any particular oils or anything you put on them?

I dont think they need a week. 24 to 48 hours max. Take out and immediately flush the legs (parts) free of all solvent. Immediately dry with old towel. Lay in sun and go get your wax. Wax the legs and that seals out all moisture. I've done this and have legs that were fugly rust encrusted and they are still shiny chrome more than a year later. clearcoating lockdown receiver metal on old EMs also makes sense

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdog50:

I dont think they need a week. 24 to 48 hours max. Take out and immediately flush the legs (parts) free of all solvent. Immediately dry with old towel. Lay in sun and go get your wax. Wax the legs and that seals out all moisture. I've done this and have legs that were fugly rust encrusted and they are still shiny chrome more than a year later. clearcoating lockdown receiver metal on old EMs also makes sense

Reading other posts above reminded me -- after drying I use Mothers Mag Polish (that I use for ALL metal clean up and shine) first to bring out the bright finish THEN after wiping all that off do the Wax

#22 1 year ago

For those of you that use the Evapo Rust, do you typically remove the parts and soak them or place paper towels over them while in the machine? I’m likely planning on pulling and soaking them, but time is money. Perhaps only the parts that are not functioning like the score motor?

#23 1 year ago

Anyone have a good schematic for printing?

#24 1 year ago

I soak them. But make sure you rinse them off good afterwards.

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGurus:

Anyone have a good schematic for printing?

I would imagine Steve Young at Pinball Resource sells a nice copy , ask for manual & other paperwork as well if available. (about 20 bucks)

At a glance looks like the right flipper coil may be burnt, I'd check with an ohm meter. New fuse holders needed, Bally use junk ones I guess.

I would think just soaking a rag with evaporust WOULDN'T work, it would evaporate (no pun intended) perhaps the owner could deal with that with either evaporust or a media-tumbler.

Clay's guide is a good read: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

Was cool seeing the grabber working in the video

#27 1 year ago

Evaporust for a win...

I do tend to sometime give it a polish to prevent any new rust forming

Sometimes I tumble the smaller pieces for a little bit with a small amount of Nu-Finish (similar) added to help coat the parts.

Still a newbie, so I'm still learning.

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#28 1 year ago

After the paper towels failed. It’s been sitting it a bath now for 13 hours, still tons of rust, been brushing it off every so often. I’ll check again tomorrow afternoon and report back.

I did the the scoring reel to finally start spinning, but the motor seems difficult to turn, better after oiling; hoping that’s normal?

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#29 1 year ago

For the bigger pieces I soak in Evaporust, I use PVC tubes. Flat bottom cap, removable top.

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#31 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

For the bigger pieces I soak in Evaporust, I use PVC tubes. Flat bottom cap, removable top.[quoted image]

I do that also. Works great.

#32 1 year ago

Anyone know how to remove the plastic dial the numbers mount to? I’m assuming I’ll need to hammer it out with a punch, after removing the circuit board? I’ve tried to pull it straight off, but it’s rusted and barely turns. Thanks.

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#33 1 year ago

I would keep turning back and forth to loosen it up, and work its way off the shaft as you pull and turn.. I've fought with a few.

#34 1 year ago

Never did this, so complete WAG here...almost looks like a screw head slot there. No?

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#35 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGurus:

Anyone know how to remove the plastic dial the numbers mount to? I’m assuming I’ll need to hammer it out with a punch, after removing the circuit board? I’ve tried to pull it straight off, but it’s rusted and barely turns. Thanks.
[quoted image]

Supposed to be a little hairpin clip there http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1976/index.html#/114/zoomed

I wonder if heating the plastic with a hair dryer would help it expand just enough to help unloosen-it

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#36 1 year ago

It’s slowly pulling off. Rust sucks.

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#37 1 year ago
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#38 1 year ago

Not too bad.

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#39 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGurus:

Not too bad.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Evaporust or something else?

#40 1 year ago

So I got the score motor running, but one of the rollers on a leaf broke off immediately. Anyone know were to find more or is it even repairable? I doubt it.

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#41 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Evaporust or something else?

Evaporust and wire brush on a drill.

#42 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGurus:

So I got the score motor running, but one of the rollers on a leaf broke off immediately. Anyone know were to find more or is it even repairable? I doubt it.
[quoted image]

If you can't find one, just get another leaf and some small pop rivets - should get you going again.

Mind posting a pic of where it broke off from?

#43 1 year ago

(Too many pins)Skip here on pinside has all kinds of EM parts.Very good guy!

#44 1 year ago

He also has an Ebay store.Pinjunk

#45 1 year ago

More results.

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#46 1 year ago

Backglass was lighting up before cleaning plugs, now nothing. Hmmm...????

#47 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

If you can't find one, just get another leaf and some small pop rivets - should get you going again.
Mind posting a pic of where it broke off from?

It broke off one of the scoring reel leafs.

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#48 1 year ago

The bushing on the motor was bad, so I was actually able to use a larger spring combined with the original spring to hold it in place in lieu of replacement.

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