(Topic ID: 247113)

To do or not to do!


By bssbllr

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by bssbllr
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 1 year ago

    Just curious of others fellow pinsiders thoughts on cleaning up the inside of the cabinet. I have seen some post say they would walk away if it had been restored and that they like the smell of cigs, mold and beer. I’m not sure about that because the final look when restored just blows away what you start with being over 25 years old.
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    #2 1 year ago

    Nice work looks great!

    #3 1 year ago

    Thanks man I remember buying it and it was my first pinball machine. I was really Not that impressed and to tel you the truth a little scared. But on the spot decided to buy it and after having it for 5 years and retiring due to a terminal illness I had the time to clean it all up. Very excited with the outcome.

    #4 1 year ago

    You did a great job! Looks fantastic. Nice work

    #5 1 year ago

    Excellent work!

    #6 1 year ago

    Thank you fellow pinballers.

    #7 1 year ago

    Looks great

    #8 1 year ago

    Looks Good!!

    #9 1 year ago

    That clean cabinet makes me happy... Great job!!!

    #10 1 year ago

    Looks incredible! My STTNG looks like yours did! What paint did you use btw?

    #11 1 year ago

    Great job, looks showroom new! How & what did you use to achieve that NIB look?

    #12 1 year ago

    I stripped and sanded with an orbital sander with 220. Had to fill gouge on side from playfield with Elmer’s wood filler. Then applied three coats of satin or semi gloss rattle can. I have to look at the can witch I will grab and post a pic tomorrow. I grabbed from Lowe’s they used to carry valspar in spray can but switched suppliers I think it’s rust oleum.

    #13 1 year ago

    Nice work!
    Looks Great!
    A not so Dirty Harry anymore.

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    I have seen some post say they would walk away if it had been restored and that they like the smell of cigs, mold and beer.

    Yeah.... Anyone that says that still thinks games are worth $1500. Besides, we do this becasue it's fun, not because we are trying to fund retirement.

    #15 1 year ago

    That looks fantastic! If I was interested in an older game, I would always prefer a restoration like this. I smelled enough cigarette smoke growing up - don't need any more!

    Fresh beer is lovely, but don't need the stale old pub / frat house beer smell!

    -Adam

    #16 1 year ago

    I Definitely smelled way to much cig smoke as a kid lol.

    #17 1 year ago

    Definitely better cleaned up, and much more appealing to the vast majority of buyers.

    #18 1 year ago

    Tidy. I like it.

    #19 1 year ago

    Yeah I was cringing when I first went to see it. But the title and price were appealing so went for it. Had fun fixing it up now enjoying playing it.

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    #20 1 year ago

    I guess the seller made your day?

    #21 1 year ago

    Yes he did!

    #22 1 year ago

    Looks amazing!Would to love to come across a DH for myself someday,love the theme and gameplay looks good too,id say you've increased its value for sure

    #23 1 year ago

    Thanks I tore it down which was for a deep cleaning ended up clear coating, buffing and polishing a lil airbrushing and fixed eject holes as well. Did it more for the challenge but I guess your right I will take the increase in value all day. I also added a drop target to the warehouse which was left out of production.

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    #24 1 year ago

    Better than calling you a punk!

    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    Thanks man I remember buying it and it was my first pinball machine. I was really Not that impressed and to tel you the truth a little scared. But on the spot decided to buy it and after having it for 5 years and retiring due to a terminal illness I had the time to clean it all up. Very excited with the outcome.

    Sorry to hear about your terminal illness. I hope things have improved for you.

    #26 1 year ago

    Or meat head

    #27 1 year ago

    Appreciate the thoughts. Been battling for five years. Stage 4 colon cancer with Mets on my liver and lungs. I am very upbeat even with my diagnosis and continue to stay positive for my family. Thanks again.

    #28 1 year ago

    I wish you the best.

    #29 1 year ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    Yeah I was cringing when I first went to see it. But the title and price were appealing so went for it. Had fun fixing it up now enjoying playing it.[quoted image]

    Does your DH have the warehouse drop target? Wasn’t that removed from production games?

    Oh never mind I see you added it. Bad ass dude.

    #30 1 year ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    Appreciate the thoughts. Been battling for five years. Stage 4 colon cancer with Mets on my liver and lungs. I am very upbeat even with my diagnosis and continue to stay positive for my family. Thanks again.

    Great attitude.

    Great work.

    You inspire in pinball and real life. Thank you.

    #31 1 year ago
    Quoted from bssbllr:

    Appreciate the thoughts. Been battling for five years. Stage 4 colon cancer with Mets on my liver and lungs. I am very upbeat even with my diagnosis and continue to stay positive for my family. Thanks again.

    Keep up the good fight!

    #32 1 year ago

    Wow thanks everyone for the support means a lot from my fellow pinballers. It’s real and sucks but never know when our time is so got to deal with what your dealt. I’m alive today so that’s what’s important.

    #33 1 year ago
    Quoted from EEE:

    I am pleased with my effort and the result is good in my humble opinion. The Warehouse drop target is one of the better examples of things lost in the transition from sample machine to production run machine. Game play is faster and improved with the drop target installed.
    For those of you that have the production machine, you may know that the current software supports the drop target. You can "mod" your machine with a few hours of effort and a few parts that are readily available.
    Instructions below are for reference only, and I will not be liable for any damage or harm to your machine or yourself.
    I suggest patience and going slow, so as to avoid any irreversible damages.
    You should see 4 factory dimples underneath the playfield around the Inspector badge for the Warehouse. You should also notice a 3-pin molex connector built into the wiring harness that has no match in that immediate area. The dimples are for the drop target assembly itself and the 3-pinner is for the drop target switch. You will need to build up the wiring for the two coils and create a connection from the switch to that 3-pin connector.
    The parts I used included a new single self-dropping target assembly (A-15211), the actual drop target itself (I used an AFM red #03-8750-2, but you could use black #03-8750), two pairs of 2-pin molex housings (male and female) that can accomodate 18 guage AWG wire along with two pairs of molex pins male & female (.093). These are for the 2 coils on the drop assembly to make removing the whole assembly easier, and any color of wires will do. I suggest 7' of each color, and you will have some waste at the end of the process. I used white with orange, white with black, blue and pink.
    You will also need a 3-pin molex connector (better to get both a male & female), to use for the drop target switch, and the wiring for this short run (two different color strands of 6" or less) uses a 22 guage AWG wire, along with a pair of male/female .062 housings (you may not use both sides). You might also want to have a supply of small zip ties if you prefer to snip the ones on the wiring harness instead of pushing the wires through.
    Tools that you will need include a drill and/or dremel, an IDC punch down tool and a molex crimper. I used a few different drill bits, a Dremel #453 sharpening stone (5/32"), a 2-pack of 3/8" x 1" Kobalt grinders (Lowes item #0236542). You will also need a soldering iron.
    I had recently shopped the machine, so I started by pulling the parts on top of the playfield that get in the way. It would be better to do this while the playfield is stripped down.
    I attached the drop target assembly using the 4 dimples and then held the loose drop target in the area of where it would pass through the playfield. I used a pencil to outline the area and then drilled my first hole from the top with a small drill bit to get a good bearing on where the center of the target, as well as the rest of it, would pass through the playfield when I was done. Basically, make the hole carefully, using the target and assembly frequently to check that you are lined up and sized up correctly. My finished opening is smaller than factory, but it is easier to enlarge it than to try and fill it back in.
    For wiring, build up the drop target switch and test it. The green wires go to the middle and the white wire goes to the non-banded side of the diode.
    I soldered the drop reset (green) coil to the right ball gate at the top of the playfield (see the white with orange band wire that I added to the same lug as the red with orange wires). For the small drop coil (yellow) I soldered it to the ball launcher coil (see the pink wire that I added to the same lug as the red with brown wire).
    For the other sides of the drop assembly coils, I used a white with black wire and a bluish-green wire. I pulled the wires all the way up the wire harness (new zipties would have been preferable and faster). When I got them into the backbox, I used an IDC punchdown tool to punch the white with black wire into connector J122, pin 1 for the green reset coil. I then inserted the bluish green wire for the small yellow coil into connector J130, pin 7.
    The process took me about 5 hours total, not including shopping for the parts needed. Shout outs to McCune and PinballHelp for their assistance in this project.
    [quoted image] [quoted image] [quoted image]

    These are the steps I followed to add the drop target.

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