(Topic ID: 240830)

To Clearcoat or Not to Clearcoat..? That is the Question..


By tscottn

37 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by rufessor
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 37 days ago

What are you thoughts on clear coating a freshly painted cabinet? Obviously non yellowing CC only.. but is it necessary for a wedgehead?

#2 36 days ago

Clear coat in semi-gloss will even out any gloss differential, smooth out edges and offer some protection for your hard won new paint job.

#3 36 days ago

Agreed!!

#4 36 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Clear coat in semi-gloss will even out any gloss differential, smooth out edges and offer some protection for your hard won new paint job.

thank you. thats what i wanted to know!

#5 35 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Clear coat in semi-gloss will even out any gloss differential, smooth out edges and offer some protection for your hard won new paint job.

what is the best clear coat to use on a cabinet from rattle can? Also, Im restoring a cabinet and im at the first color stencils.. should I cc before I add the next color..? I heard this might help protect the first color from lifting..

#7 35 days ago
Quoted from tscottn:

what is the best clear coat to use on a cabinet from rattle can? Also, Im restoring a cabinet and im at the first color stencils.. should I cc before I add the next color..? I heard this might help protect the first color from lifting..

Hell no. No outer coat will ever help adhesion below.
You can use rattle can clear lacquer (home Depot or paint store) if u want after finished with paint colors. Lightly sand between coats of lacquer (400 grit, or worn sanding sponge). 4 coats. More coats, even better. Only takes half hour between. Satin is best gloss IMO, at Sherwin Williams.

#8 35 days ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Hell no. No outer coat will ever help adhesion below.
You can use rattle can clear lacquer (home Depot or paint store) if u want after finished with paint colors. Lightly sand between coats of lacquer (400 grit, or worn sanding sponge). 4 coats. More coats, even better. Only takes half hour between. Satin is best gloss IMO, at Sherwin Williams.

Thank You. The info i needed..

#9 35 days ago

Yes! Definitely not necessary, but a good clear coat will look great, provide significant extra physical protection against scrapes and scuffs, will make the cab much more resistant to taking on stains, give it a much smoother surface feel and most importantly it will LOOK GREAT!

I used a water based flooring product to clear an older Gottlieb Bonanza that I fully stripped and restored. Sprayed 2 coats on and the result was absolutely perfect. This pin went on to win 1st Place for Best Restoration @ TPF and was cleared using a water based poly-crylic designed for flooring application. It’s tough as nails, sprays on easily and is relatively low cost:

Benjamin Moore “Stays Clear”
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It’s available in full gloss as well as satin and therefore any desired gloss level can be mixed and applied.

#10 34 days ago

Hi,

For all I have read, 2K is the only one not turning to yellow.
Yellowish is something really bad even in home DIY... I got hard experience for that...

For the quantity of layers, the more is not the better... For cabinet, the harder is the better...

#11 34 days ago

2k clear or no clear.

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#12 34 days ago
Quoted from kcZ:

2k clear or no clear.[quoted image]

Hum... Really glossy...

#13 34 days ago
Quoted from Leveeger:

Hum... Really glossy...

HEP does it less glossy but he is far more talented with a spray gun. Gloss comes from polishing, if you can spray like a pro then you can use a matte gloss with no polishing.

#14 30 days ago
Quoted from SilverWings:

Yes! Definitely not necessary, but a good clear coat will look great, provide significant extra physical protection against scrapes and scuffs, will make the cab much more resistant to taking on stains, give it a much smoother surface feel and most importantly it will LOOK GREAT!
I used a water based flooring product to clear an older Gottlieb Bonanza that I fully stripped and restored. Sprayed 2 coats on and the result was absolutely perfect. This pin went on to win 1st Place for Best Restoration @ TPF and was cleared using a water based poly-crylic designed for flooring application. It’s tough as nails, sprays on easily and is relatively low cost:
Benjamin Moore “Stays Clear”
[quoted image]
It’s available in full gloss as well as satin and therefore any desired gloss level can be mixed and applied.

I really like this product, unfortunately I don't have a gun, nor does it come in cans.. any good suggestions for a really nice rattle can clear coat for my cab?

#15 29 days ago

TSCOTTN - I personally haven't sprayed rattle can clear over such a large surface area. Too hard to get even coverage, and the rattle can stuff dries too fast. Plus at $8 bucks a can or so, you'll spend well north of $50 to do the whole job in just one thin coat.

Again, if the alternative is rattle can, I'd still recommend using the water based flooring product. The Benwood product is also available in quart size and I think would roll on nicely using a very low nap foam cabinet roller. You'd wind up with a MUCH better clear coat, at a lower cost than rattle can. Keep a sharp eye out on your roller tracks, and stop rolling well before it begins to tack up which will take less than about 2 minutes. Buy a quart of high gloss and a quart of flat - then mix the sheen level you want. 50/50 is what I used on my Kings and Queens and it looks amazing. Go get a quart of gloss and experiment on a piece of wood. You'll immediately see what I mean.

Not the mile-deep clear you'll get using 2PAC auto clear but this level of gloss does suit the EM cabinets nearly perfectly. Here's the Bonanza done in full gloss (2 coats) which looked amazing:

IMG_5926 (resized).JPG
#16 29 days ago
Quoted from Leveeger:

Hum... Really glossy...

I dunno...really digging it. Looks eye catching! If I walked into that room, I’d see it up front! And makes the colors pop.

#17 29 days ago

I dunno... Once you do one... You need to do them all.

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#18 29 days ago
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#19 29 days ago
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#20 29 days ago
Quoted from kcZ:

[quoted image]

Anyone who doesn’t like full gloss hasn’t seen it in person. My wozecle with the cc’d cab was magic.

Hey KcZ, were these decals that were cleared? Teach me!

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#21 29 days ago
Quoted from underlord:

Anyone who doesn’t like full gloss hasn’t seen it in person. My wozecle with the cc’d cab was magic.
Hey KcZ, were these decals that were cleared? Teach me!
[quoted image]

None were full decals... I don't think I'd be able to do this with full decals... I'm not good enough putting on full decals.

Jurassic Park was decals but only the color portion was a decal, black areas were paint.

Silverball Mania was full paint. I used modified Pinball Pimp stencils to create the painted surface.

#22 29 days ago
Quoted from kcZ:

None were full decals... I don't think I'd be able to do this with full decals... I'm not good enough putting on full decals.
Jurassic Park was decals but only the color portion was a decal, black areas were paint.
Silverball Mania was full paint. I used modified Pinball Pimp stencils to create the painted surface.

So there were no issues clearing over decals?

#23 29 days ago
Quoted from underlord:

So there were no issues clearing over decals?

I've seen games that have had clear over full decals... Looked great. I don't know that I can get full decals down without little bubbles tho.

My JP was partial decals under the clear.

#24 29 days ago
Quoted from kcZ:

I've seen games that have had clear over full decals... Looked great. I don't know that I can get full decals down without little bubbles tho.
My JP was partial decals under the clear.

Looks fantastic. I can’t compliment enough. If you had no pf in it I’d still admire the work!

#25 29 days ago

Upcoming Bally 6803 Motordome with the generic decals shot with 2PAC.

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1 week later
#26 16 days ago
Quoted from SilverWings:

TSCOTTN - I personally haven't sprayed rattle can clear over such a large surface area. Too hard to get even coverage, and the rattle can stuff dries too fast. Plus at $8 bucks a can or so, you'll spend well north of $50 to do the whole job in just one thin coat.
Again, if the alternative is rattle can, I'd still recommend using the water based flooring product. The Benwood product is also available in quart size and I think would roll on nicely using a very low nap foam cabinet roller. You'd wind up with a MUCH better clear coat, at a lower cost than rattle can. Keep a sharp eye out on your roller tracks, and stop rolling well before it begins to tack up which will take less than about 2 minutes. Buy a quart of high gloss and a quart of flat - then mix the sheen level you want. 50/50 is what I used on my Kings and Queens and it looks amazing. Go get a quart of gloss and experiment on a piece of wood. You'll immediately see what I mean.
Not the mile-deep clear you'll get using 2PAC auto clear but this level of gloss does suit the EM cabinets nearly perfectly. Here's the Bonanza done in full gloss (2 coats) which looked amazing:[quoted image]

Thanks for the advice, this is exactly what I did.. However I couldn't find the Benwood stuff locally so I went with the Minwax Water Baaed Polyacrylic in semi gloss.. IMG_5674 (resized).JPGworked perfectly and much cheaper than a spray.

#27 16 days ago

Just to clarify- it was stated that gloss comes from polishing- this was with respect to the semi gloss/matte finish some use on cabinets (my preference is this). That statement is maybe misleading... depending on how you read it.

The matte finish coming from a spray gun and any 2-part clear coat is a different formulation than a gloss. Importantly- you cannot buff out a matte finish as it will become gloss. You can (and I always do) buff a gloss playfield to remove small imperfections and level it perfectly but this cannot be done to any semi/matte spray. That you need to spray right the first time- every time- because if you need to fix regions they will buff to gloss.

Hope this makes sense- just sayin if you want a matte finish you need to lay it down perfectly or you will need to resprat the entire job (more or less).

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