(Topic ID: 304357)

TMNT pinball troubleshooting

By soccerdog0203

2 years ago


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#1 2 years ago

I have a data east pinball machine that is malfunctioning. The dot matrix screen stopped functioning, it turns on, seems like it really tries to work, but only turns on half to 3/4 of the way and flickers. One can also not get a game going, just says bummer dude when the button is pressed. Upon inspection it was found the resistor and chip on this board are burnt. Which board is this/what does it do/replacement part suggestions?

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#3 2 years ago

Thank you, I’ll get to purchasing a new one asap and see if all my problems go away and keep you posted here. Thank you for the super quick reply

-3
#4 2 years ago

It sounds like you need to employ someone with the knowledge and skills to repair your machine. That resistor looks perfectly OK to me BUT you can't tell by "looking" - you need to know how to use and how to interpret multimeter readings.

You are in for a world of hurt and expense unless you accept your current level of knowledge and are prepared to study and learn over time to acquire the things you need to know to be able to repair anything electronic.

My comments might sound harsh but they are realistic.

#5 2 years ago

Pins4u. I have my masters degree in electronic engineering. I am well aware of the functionality of a multimeter. The way I found out that VR4 is blown was twofold. A. You can clearly see charring on the board beside the heat sink in the picture, B. The chip gets really hot/smells during power up, which is why I noticed the problem to begin with and opened up my machine.

Please do not post useless/rude comments. Knowing how to use a multimeter isn’t the only thing you need to know. Without a proper schematic or knowledge of exactly how the pinball machine functions I cannot even begin to diagnose errors down to the voltage level. Finding a chat mark and using an ir gun is a really easy first step in discovering a problem. I have no interest in attempting to fix a circuit board down to the part level when a new power supply board, which is known to fail on these machines, is merely $150.00.

-1
#6 2 years ago
Quoted from soccerdog0203:

Pins4u. I have my masters degree in electronic engineering. I am well aware of the functionality of a multimeter. The way I found out that VR4 is blown was twofold. A. You can clearly see charring on the board beside the heat sink in the picture, B. The chip gets really hot/smells during power up, which is why I noticed the problem to begin with and opened up my machine.
Please do not post useless/rude comments. Knowing how to use a multimeter isn’t the only thing you need to know. Without a proper schematic or knowledge of exactly how the pinball machine functions I cannot even begin to diagnose errors down to the voltage level. Finding a chat mark and using an ir gun is a really easy first step in discovering a problem. I have no interest in attempting to fix a circuit board down to the part level when a new power supply board, which is known to fail on these machines, is merely $150.00.

You didn't exactly tell us what your skill levels were in your post and it sure read to me like you knew ZERO. Would probably be better if you give as much info as possible when asking for help if you want the right sort of answers.

The board being a little 'charred' is pretty much normal when you have a stonking 10W resistor hovering above the board for 30+ years. But you already know that right?

I would have thought someone with a "masters degree in electronic engineering" would be well able to fix a simple regulated supply such as this one but, here we are!

#7 2 years ago

LTG already answered everything you need for your question. DE schematics and manuals are typically available on IPDB for future parts identification and reference as well.

#8 2 years ago

pins4u i would appreciate if you would stop leaving rude and unhelpful comments in this topic. I gave the information I needed to, got straight to the point, and received an excellent answer from another user, and am moving forward with fixing my issue. I again have no interest in fixing a broken power supply board, let alone wasting my time troubleshooting if a replacement board is only 150.00. I don’t quite understand why you do not recognize that. If the board cost 2k, then sure I’ll pull it out and troubleshoot. You can believe what you want as far as my degree, I really do not care. I kindly ask you stop being rude.

-1
#9 2 years ago
Quoted from soccerdog0203:

pins4u i would appreciate if you would stop leaving rude and unhelpful comments in this topic. I gave the information I needed to, got straight to the point, and received an excellent answer from another user, and am moving forward with fixing my issue. I again have no interest in fixing a broken power supply board, let alone wasting my time troubleshooting if a replacement board is only 150.00. I don’t quite understand why you do not recognize that. If the board cost 2k, then sure I’ll pull it out and troubleshoot. You can believe what you want as far as my degree, I really do not care. I kindly ask you stop being rude.

I was being helpful without any knowledge of your esteemed degree - the way you wrote - ASKING FOR HELP - sounded as if you had never seen an electronic component before? Your further writings confirm that to me!

"Which board is this/what does it do" - tells every reader that you have ZERO electronic knowledge. A first year apprentice engineer would instantly recognise that as some form of power supply I have no doubt whatsoever.

I suggest you seek some help if you think my responses are "rude". Also, reporting me to mods for trying to help you is well out of order!

I won't comment further at your request, good luck keeping your machine going.

1 week later
#10 2 years ago

Update: I replaced the power supply board, upon further inspection it was definitely blown, as expected. I installed the new circuit board and ran a test. My original problems have vanished, but I now am blowing the 4 amp, slow blow fuse. Looking up the data sheet it says “coils and flash lamps” is what is powered through this section. I will take some measurements and see if I can find the culprit/short, if anybody has suggestions please feel free.

Special thanks to LTG for the first problem solution!

Does anybody know the part number for the connector cn1, as I would like to replace that connector too.

Pictures below: blown circuit board shown, connector that needs replaced, and the new board in place.

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#12 2 years ago

Any updates

#13 2 years ago

@goob92, not yet. Purchased the required connector to replace the burnt one and a replacement fuse. It will be here in approx 5-7 days. I will continue to troubleshoot WHY the fuse blew and keep everyone posted within the next week.

1 week later
#14 2 years ago

Small update on what I have done thus far:

New connector came in yesterday. I grabbed the wrong extractor from work, so I will have to finish installing it later this week. I took some measurements on the input connector CN1 as a start. The data sheet is pretty hard to read but my values were:

Order: color, data sheet, measured
Violet, 18Vdc, 19.2Vdc
Orange(2), 32Vdc, 42.5Vdc

The orange wires from the bridge rectifier is high, so I am a bit concerned.

The remaining colors are transformer wiring measured in VAC, as seen in the attached data sheet screenshot. The voltages all were correct meaning the main transformer is working correctly.

The last thing I’ve done is check the resistance on all of the coils. They all read about 3-4 ohms, which means they are all ok.

My next steps are to put the new connector on, disconnect everything else from the power supply board and reconnect one connector at a time. This will help me diagnose exactly which circuit is pulling too much current causing the 4A fuse to blow. I will post further findings and troubleshooting efforts for anybody else doing so at home.

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#15 2 years ago

Day one I always replace the power board on Data east games.
I prefer the Xpin board.

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