(Topic ID: 231802)

TMNT Ninja Turtles GI Illumination Burnt Pin


By durgee7

4 months ago



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  • 32 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by TheLaw
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#1 4 months ago

Hello Pinside Friends,

I had help discovering a GI issue with my ninja turtles pinball machine from another pinside Forum. Before I purchased this game in 2017, I should have listened to my gut and had the owner snap a picture of this connector. I was foolish and assumed the owner was honest or at least aware of all issues. Anyways, I've been trying to tackle all issues that I've encountered over the past year. I'm hoping to get some feedback regarding repairs for the pins shown in the attached photos. 1st question: Is the PPB board beyond the point of repair? That burn mark going to the brown-white wire (for the lower string of backbox lights) looks pretty serious. 2nd question: If repair is possible, can anyone here recommend the parts needed for replacement? Do you guys have experience changing the pins and connector? I really appreciate everyone's time, and hope there is a way to get this connector repaired/replaced. I have a soldering station, which should help (vs. Cheapo soldering iron from Radio Shack).

Thanks!!!

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#2 4 months ago

Very common issue/fix.

You'll need to use a soldering gun/sucker to remove the old pins from the board.
Then you'll need to replace the female connector. IDC is what you have and are the easiest to deal with, but some people like to upgrade them

https://www.pinballlife.com/molex-156-idc-connectors-and-parts.html

Now that you're more familar with the names you can search fro them and theere are a ton of topics to help you through

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/molex-vs-idc-replacement-connectors

#3 4 months ago

Board is fine just need to do as @thelaw said new connector and header. If you own a dataeast game you will have to do this on every gi harness unless it was replace by prior owner. These connectors were under rated for the load and now time has taken its toll on pin and connector surface causing it heat up and burn up. Also check your power supply connectors too those can be a problem also. I see a wire nut in that 2nd pic also

#4 4 months ago

TheLaw and cp1610, I greatly appreciate the support. I think this is something I can fix now that I have some direction. As for the wire nut, I noticed it as well. I'll make sure to check the power supply connectors.

As for everything else, the machine operates as intended. Sound effects, noises, everything seems to work except those string of backbox lots that are powered through the brown-white cable.

#5 4 months ago

I found another burnt looking connector on the PPB and it not coming off. Should I put a little more effort into getting this connector off the board? Maybe I need to remove everything except this connector, then somehow desolder the header pins to get it completely removed? Or, I could pull out the wires and remove connector once board is removed from backbox?

cp1610 - The wire nut you mentioned contains 2 wires, one of which (red) goes behind the ppb. The other wire is brown-white, matching the other wire in that GI burnt connector location. Not sure what it could be.

Thanks!

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#6 4 months ago

looking at the pic i bet they ran the red spliced wire to back side of board to fix gi works but not proper repair. As to the other connector looks like you get to do some more header connector work pinball life has the idc tool you will need did it the hard way for to long and bought the right tools goes way faster and less fussing. desolder the header from board them you can work at getting wires out of header connector easier. Also check the back side of ppb board for cracked joints on all header pins replace any discolored headers or connectors otherwise you will be back changing that next time.

#7 4 months ago

cp1610, excellent advice! Thanks for the input. I'm going to follow your advice on removing header first, then wires using the pinball life tool. I was just trying to visualize how to desolder while the wires were still attached, keeping the board in the backbox...unless there is a disconnect somewhere upstream from the connector. I would very much prefer removing the PPB before any soldering is performed.

Thanks again!

#8 4 months ago

After doing a lot of research, I'm still leaning towards IDC since this machine is not in a heavy use environment.

I was looking at a pinside thread posted by TheLaw mentioning the use of 18/20 gauge connectors for GI instead of 22 gauge. I received conflicting info regarding use of 22 gauge connectors since my wires appear to be 22 gauge. Do you guys recommend using one size over another? I appreciate your help!

#9 4 months ago

IDCs are fine, quick, and easy. They aren't as good true, but they did just fine for a couple decades.
Hmmm... I don't Remeber smaller gauge discussion of mine but that might might have been aboot pinball magic which is a Capcom issue not Sega?

Anyway, enough thinking, let's start working. Take pics, Remo r connectors and remove the board then you csn start getting those pins out.

#10 4 months ago

TheLaw,

Thanks! This project may not start until after Christmas. I'll try getting the board removed and take photos, in the meantime.

Yeah, you're probably right about the smaller gauge wire referenced to a different game. I attached a screen shot of the post that confused me.

I'll assume 22 gauge for the burnt connectors wires.

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#11 4 months ago

Yeah just get whatever gauge your wires are.

#12 4 months ago

TheLaw motivated me to at least get the board out. Check out my pics! The hack was for that brown-white wire that connects to the non-working string of backbox lights. I'm gonna ask again: Can this be repaired using new pins (male and female)?

Thanks Guys!

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#13 4 months ago

Well, everything can be repaired with jumper wires
I'm sure gonna try to fix it cheaply before buying a new board. Do you have a Multi Meter? AS long as there is continuity betwixt the pin and where the trace goes it should be doable.

Look at the back of the pin next to the missing one...see that little circle in the solder? That's a cold solder joint right there just FYI

EDIT: might as well replace the pins on the other side too.

#14 4 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I'm gonna ask again: Can this be repaired using new pins (male and female)?
Thanks Guys!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Easy peasy. You will likely need one jumper wire, but you can hide it on the back much better than the last guy did

#15 4 months ago

I do have a multimeter, but I'm inexperienced with using it. This process will be tough for a newbie like me. I'll keep looking for examples on jumper wires. Also, I need to figure out how to effectively use my mastech digital multimeter.

Good catch on the cold solder.

Agree. Repair cheaply first, then buy new board when all else fails. Hope they still sell these boards in case I really mess up.

I tried attaching just one pic showing my multimeters but 3 other pics hitched a ride.

Thanks again!

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#16 4 months ago

Well what wont be hard is continuity.
AS you can see the green DMM it seems is already pointing toward the continuity selection in the picture, which looks like a little speaker or wifi signal. Selecting that and putting the leads on 2 ends of a wire or trace it will beep, this both shows things that are connected are actually connected. Also useful for testing if things that shouldn't be connected are.

You can practice by putting 1 end on any pin, and then following the trace in the board to where it ends up, and putting the other lead there....BEEEEP, continuity. A jumper wire is just an alternate way of getting the connection from 1 thing to the other.
The traces are basically just wires inside the board if you want to be simple aboot it. You can see from your pic above, since the pin was missing, the person just scraped some of the board away to expose the lead, and then soldered the wire onto it...skipping or jumping the pin.

Not familiar with DE boards...those are some chunky ass traces!

Check out some continuity videos on youtube for a more in depth lesson (and probably much better than me 'explaining' it).

#17 4 months ago

Excellent! I checked continuity in the current condition and everything checked out, even the ugly azz red jumper cable. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I used one MM lead at the frayed end of the red wire and the other MM lead at the corresponding fuse connection (and fuse end). I checked all the suspect connections and they beeped during continuity check.

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#18 4 months ago

Just to let you guys know, I'm planning to push back this project until Christmas break is over. From my previous post, it seems the red wire hack has continuity from exposed wire end to the respective fuse. This has me wondering if the issue is still due to this wire. I guess it's hard to tell unless you have all the information, but it seems more than a coincidence this wire, which was attached to the brown-white wire via wire nut, wouldn't be causing the issue, since the string of backbox lights not working are connected to this brown-white wire. I'll keep doing my homework and hopefully avoid causing further damage. I'm also planning to order all IDC connectors, and maybe some extra 22 gauge wire for jumpers. Thanks for all the support! This is a great learning experience.

#19 4 months ago

I'd check continuity through the fuses using the pins on the connector. With these DE boards, that corner is basically just a fuse hub. Power for the GI cimes in on one end of that connector goes through its corresponding fuse and then exits the other end of the connector. Pretty easy to follow the traces on the board. Check for beeps from the start pin, through the fuse, to the exit pin on each of those traces. The DE fuse holders were junk, possible issue there. Best of luck.

#20 4 months ago

GLSP3022, thanks for your feedback!

#21 4 months ago

Every board connection checked out for continuity. I did find an issue with the brown-white wire inside the cabinet (spliced portion). It was not reading as continuous between the exposed end and at the z-connector pin. I did check the other side of the z-connector and the actual bulb and it was continuous. Could the wire not have enough surface area within the z-connector for conducting? Should I just pull out the seated end of brown-white wire and reseat with z-connector for continuity? This is getting interesting.

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#22 4 months ago

Hey Guys,
I'm ordering the following:

9-pin IDC connectors (header pin replacements)
Tool for pushing wires into IDC connector
5A s.b. fuses
22 gauge wire (jumper)
Fuse holders

Ok...I'm also thinking of replacing all backbox (non-blinking) incandescents with soft white LEDs. Do you guys think this will help reduce some of the heat at the GI PPB connection for those specific circuits? I know using crimped style pins (trifurcon) will be a good long term solution, but I'm sticking to IDC connectors. I know what many are thinking...if you're going to go through the trouble of repairing the board and buy new LEDs, why not upgrade everything?

I attached another pic of the wire hack. I'm planning to replace the 9 pins with new 9-pin header, then add solder to the backside of the new pin at burned hole. Then I will attach a jumper to that solder point and attach the other end at the location where red wire is currently attached. Do you guys see an issue going this route?

Thanks again for the help! I won't be home to make all these repairs until after Christmas. Stay tuned.

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#23 4 months ago

LEDs are fine for the backbox, you also wont need to fill every socket.
Remember the reason all these games burnt up was they were left on for 12+ hours everyday for years and years...you're not going to do anything anywhere near that (I ASSume). So a little caution is fine, but you don't need to go overboard.

Might look into ordering another set of male pins for that other set of browned pins...or just to have extras.

Once you have the new pins in your continuity might be fine heading to that fuse. I believe, if I remember correctly, the original wire in the female connector was twisted with the solderd wire....so really it's jumping the pin....so when that pin returns, and the original wire goes back inot the connector, you mihgt not need to use another jumper wire.

But, if it doen't work then you'll just be jumping the back of the pin to the solder point.

#24 4 months ago

I want to make a correction to my post #21. The brown-white wire that ties into the red jumper goes up to the power board. That brown-white wire is soldered to a green wire that plugs into the power board. There is continuity at all brown-white wires. Seems everyone was right about the root of this problem. Nee pins should solve the problem. Just. Owning up to my mistake.

Thanks again to everyone who has taken the time to help this stranger out.

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#25 4 months ago

No worries man, we all started off like you.

#26 3 months ago

I happened to buy a heat gun and shrink tubing for any possible wire-to-wire (splice) connections. I'm planning to twist together and solder the extension from the new idc connector to that splice point.

I forgot to ask you guys about removing wire from the original idc connector. Is it recommended to cut the wire so that the new connector has a fresh tip to use for conduction? I had a tough time trying to remove a wire from the tight grip of that idc connector, so I gave up on that task. Just wondering what you guys think. I haven't found much on the web regarding this subject of wire removal from idc housing. I have a feeling cutting wire close to the connector will be my best option. I'll just have to hope there is enough length to prevent splicing to those cut ends.

Thanks again!

#27 3 months ago

cutting is good...only issue is losing a little length but you should be ok.

#28 3 months ago

Started back on the project today. I successfully replaced the male header pins without needing a jumper wire. I'm currently stuck trying to insert wires into the new idc plastic housing. The tool doesn't seem to be enough to push these wires into a permanent choke hold. I'm all for any tips you guys have...unless I'm doing correctly. I had to push the tool with plastic connector on a flat surface. The instructions for the tool say to tap until it bottoms out. Seems I'm not putting enough force on the tool.

So close...

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#29 3 months ago

You def have to be using the whole thing against a very hard surface, and it will take force to push it in. You'll feel/hear it finally bottom out (good way of putting it) and it will look like it the other connections.

You're also letting too much hang out the end just FYI. Nothing you need to be concerned aboot just know that going forward.

#30 3 months ago

I did it!!! Yes!!! Thank you to all who helped!!!

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#31 3 months ago

Swapped incandescent with led. Love it!

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#32 3 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Swapped incandescent with led. Love it!

A common thing to happen when replacing backbox bulbs is the LEDs can be MUCH brighter. If you feel it's too bright, there's sort of a 2/3 rule where you can leave 1/3 (ish...not a science) of the sockets empty. It can be enough to evenly light it but not make it overly bright.

ENJOY!

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