(Topic ID: 105791)

Time Warp Starting a Game?

By TimeWarp1

9 years ago



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  • Latest reply 9 years ago by TimeWarp1
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#1 9 years ago

I tried scouring the Internet but perhaps my question is too simple. How do you actually *start* a game of Time Warp? I set the game to free play (#18 set to 00), It's in attract mode when I turn it on, I press the white credit button on the left, the game tone (that increases in pitch as your score points) starts, player one glows and I assume at that point the ball is supposed to pop out in front of the plunger correct? I'm able to select additional players without issue. Also, when I press the credit button and the unknown red button next to the coin door I get a 1000 points. Thanks!

<EDIT> Found out that the "unknown" red button near the coin door was actually hard wired to the left credit switch to easily add credits. Must have been put in before the days of the Internet and finding out how to get it on free play.

#4 9 years ago

Well I certainly got the project pin on the cheap I was looking for. Turns out the only solenoids that would fire are the ones for sound as the 10Amp solenoid fuse that's supposed to be a 2.5A Slow Blow was blown. I decided to take the liberty of checking the rest of the fuses and found three more for a total of 4 incorrectly speced fuses. Before I did all that however I did go to the switch test and found "36"-3 Bank Drop Target Series was "stuck". I actually didn't find this "series" switch so I think I might need to take it out and get a closer look. I already ordered a set of proper fuses and am going to wait for those to come in before diving in any farther. I do plan on doing the "bulletproofing" treatment on this game so this should turn out to be be fun (hopefully not too fun).Thanks!

1 week later
#5 9 years ago

Got a nice update on Time Warp. I completed Vid’s bullet-proofing guide found here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6
The only thing I didn’t do in the guide was replace the RN sockets as the ICs were in nice and tight. In addition to that though I did replace C23 on the MPU and was going to replace C15 on the Driver board but my little 25W iron couldn’t handle the big traces. I also took a fiberglass pen to all the male connector pins on all boards and put in a remote battery holder.

After that was all said and done I got everything into the backbox and started it up. All the solenoids fired immediately just like in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/all-solenoids-fire-on-time-warp-when-turned-on
Fortunately for me all I had to do was actually put batteries in my new holder, replace the now blown 2.5A SB solenoid fuse and I was back in business. I even got a couple games in before bed.

The only big problem I have now is all the non-GI lighting doesn’t light even when the game’s first turned on in "game over/attract mode". I metered F3 on the power board and it read as good so I’m wondering if I botched the IRF9Z34NPBF MOSFET upgrade on the driver board as they are responsible for the lamp columns and they worked well before the upgrade. Thanks!

UPDATE: I found a nice schematic here:
http://www.firepowerpinball.com/
of the power wiring to diagnose the non-GI not working issue. I turned on the pin and decided to start testing at the big cap and found no juice coming out. From there I metered the bridge rectifier and again no juice. I went yet futher up the line (that is, close to the transformer) and realized I forgot to re-connect the blue quick disconnect on the fused bridge rectifier mod. Opps! Everything's mostly working now. Few stuck switches; should be easy. Kind of a weird thing going on though with the left most digit on the player two scoreboard. It flickers but only when showing "1" and "7".
END UPDATE

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