(Topic ID: 59979)

Time to redecal a cabinet?


By lukerp

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 72 posts
  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Bryan_Kelly
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

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    There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 6 years ago
    Quoted from justjoe:

    Ive owned a sign shop for 22 years now and never use bought solution. Watered down windex ( half and half ) is all Ive ever used...

    Interesting; but if one is choosing to apply wet, wouldn't Rapid-Tac be even better in theory?

    #52 6 years ago

    I have used rapid-tac on my snow mobile graphics, it works amazingly well , I will use it when I do my machine .

    #53 6 years ago

    I was tempted to mix my own application fluid but when I look at a $300 set of decals I want to put on one time the $12 for a quart of Rapid-Tac is cheap. There is no adhesion difference I can detect using leftover scrap decals applied wet and dry on wood.

    Most car places sell window tint film application fluid and it works in a pinch but I am not ready to put down the Rapid -Tac bottle just yet.

    #54 6 years ago
    Quoted from smokedog:

    Chris (HEP) did a great video of a Bally Playboy cabinet restore. Awesome and very informative.

    Thanks for this! I am watching now and it may help me greatly.

    #55 6 years ago

    I'm the guy in the video doing the wet method. Appreciate feedback on what i could improve from those guys that do this professionally.

    My intent on making the video was to document and show some footage as there was none other (to my knowledge) of anyone doing cabinet decals via the wet method. I am in no way a professional restorer and only been in the hobby for a few years, and don't claim to be an expert. But i did want to show that applying decals can be done by the average bloke, as when i first joined this hobby, i appreciated info that was available, so wanted to share some of my experiences and learnings.

    I just would like some feedback on some of the comments made about that it was 'scary' or why people wouldn't do it that way.

    Some things i have learned is that when i did do a cabinet the dry method, i ended up with a few bubbles, which i was not happy with (i did pop them, and they were eventually unnoticeable). I also noticed the comment about the weight on the decals - note that it was on a towel and there was no way it could mark the decals.

    Thanks in advace

    Rob

    #56 6 years ago
    Quoted from NM:

    Interesting; but if one is choosing to apply wet, wouldn't Rapid-Tac be even better in theory?

    Ive used it before. It stays wet longer and the edges start to curl. And as much of it as I use, 99 cents a gallon cant be beat

    #57 6 years ago

    I did the dry method, have never done the wet method. I thought the dry method was easy and I had no problems with it.

    #58 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    Just like Bryan does . I have done the light thing too but results can very depending on light angle and shadows. The impression method is spot on.

    Good tip.

    The light I use is a circular fluorescent - the one that board repair guys use. It seems to put out a very diffuse light - maybe it helps??

    #59 6 years ago

    I just would like some feedback on some of the comments made about that it was 'scary'

    I said it was " scary" because I spend a ton of time on my cabinets to make them look new as possible and afraid the liquid could make a mess . I am not comfortable spraying any liquid on a cab that I have put this kind of work into.

    So the wet process is very scary to me ! Just my opinion.

    mb_cab.JPG

    #60 6 years ago

    that is a thing of beauty!

    PS mounted in the back? never seen that. What game?

    #61 6 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    PS mounted in the back? never seen that. What game?

    Monster bash, many games are this way 1994 and newer.

    #62 6 years ago

    Interesting, I guess I should pay more attention. Any idea why it was later moved to the back?

    #63 6 years ago

    Whysnow:
    later? I think that the location of the transformer varied by game (and designer) based on features in the game. many of the earlier WPC titles had the transformer in the front of the machine (WH20, CftBL, etc...)

    #64 6 years ago

    Looking forward to Jim's video, especially how he finishes corners.

    #65 6 years ago

    That MB is coming along rather nicely!

    #66 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    I said it was " scary" because I spend a ton of time on my cabinets to make them look new as possible and afraid the liquid could make a mess . I am not comfortable spraying any liquid on a cab that I have put this kind of work into.
    So the wet process is very scary to me ! Just my opinion.

    My thoughts exactly, Jim. The dry method is just too easy. Measure four times, double check, triple check, cut start edge, install, trim.

    #67 6 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    Interesting, I guess I should pay more attention. Any idea why it was later moved to the back?

    WPC games had it installed in the front directly to the bottom. The weight caused all kinds of issues. My buddy has a FT where the bottom is damn near falling out. Then they added the support piece that the transformer mounted to, but I would imagine they found that to be more work than simply mounting to the back like you see on WPC 95 games.

    #68 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    I said it was " scary" because I spend a ton of time on my cabinets to make them look new as possible and afraid the liquid could make a mess . I am not comfortable spraying any liquid on a cab that I have put this kind of work into.
    So the wet process is very scary to me ! Just my opinion.

    Damn, Jim. I just noticed what you do with the ground braid behind the leg plates. Looks better than original. I may try that on my next one.

    I have an IJ to do next that someone installed new artwork on but didn't do anything with the rest of the cabinet. It's kind of a shame cause it wouldn't have taken all that much more to do the job right. I've got no way to video, but I may take a bunch of pics on this one.

    #69 6 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Damn, Jim. I just noticed what you do with the ground braid behind the leg plates.

    I stole that trick from HEP . Thanks Chris!

    #70 6 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Damn, Jim. I just noticed what you do with the ground braid behind the leg plates. Looks better than original. I may try that on my next one.

    I had to pay extra for that.

    #71 6 years ago

    I've never had an issue with the dry method. Do the coin door panel first and the best recommendation I can make there is to get four hands involved. Just peel the side you're starting with first, but have someone else help to keep the sticker *taut* as you work over the big airspace for the coin door. Get it aligned the way you want, start one side and as you get it smoothed, slowly expose more of the backing and work your way across the section.

    I've had great results doing that. Sides and head you can do yourself. Put the pin up on it's back to do the sides, start with the front of the side for alignment purposes, then work down the side removing only a couple inches of backing at a time, smoothing that section on, then removing more. Once you get the hang of it it goes pretty fast and easy.

    Do heads from top down with the head in it's normal position.

    It's really not that hard, just don't remove huge sections of the backing at once, just a few inches at a time.

    The more important thing is how smooth you have the surface underneath. Any imperfection is going to show through the vinyl so take your time filling all those scratches and dents and make sure you're sanded very smooth.

    #72 6 years ago
    Quoted from RobT:

    I had to pay extra for that.

    LOL

    Jim needs to charge more to pay for his six wives. I've only got one.

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