Sounds about right. What other input are you looking for?

good luck
post some pics

here is a good video showing the wet application method, a more forgiving method

I've just done RFM and FT, and posted. I found it hard to do in1 go,and spread it over a week or so. Total time was only about 1 hour per side to heat/ peel old decals, 20 mins per site for sanding/plugging. 15 mins decals on, 10 mins trim and finish. This doesn't include time to dissasble the machines!

Just try to enjoy the process.

The end results are usually great so if you aren't on a tight schedule, don't cut any corners (nearly every step has a corner you can cut).

Shortcuts don't end well with this job.

When you get it looking right, the time taken is quickly forgotten.

19 hours prep and 1 hours putting down the decals and trimming.
Prep is everything and don't rush it.

he makes it look easy I'm almost ready to give it a try

Prep is everything... if you read closely from all these homemade decal applications... the cabinets are often not smoothed out correctly... and decals do not stay like they should...and then bad things happen...

I used the dry method and followed the video by Tattyadams..... Worked very well.

Dry method all the way. I don't care what primer you use, with the wet method you risk swelling the cabinet. Just use multiple clamps and the dry method is easier than wet too.

That's a good video? No offense but that looks like a pretty hacky method. Use soft edge clamps on your art, not a friggin' transformer.

This is the best art installation video that I have ever come across. It's on an video game but it applies. Perfect results every time:

Application fluids were developed for application of graphics and it works well. It gives the person some wiggle room for positioning. If you want to roll them out dry then great, its what method you prefer and applying graphics on a flat surface is pretty simple vs a vehicle that is vertical with compound angles and surfaces. I prefer a bottle of Rapid-Tac and my trusted squeegee.

If your cab is prepped correctly it should be sealed and perfectly flat for decals wet or dry.
Polyurethane for wood floors is right at home on cabinet wood.

http://www.signindustry.com/installation/articles/2009-04-01-JL_Application_Fluids_for_Preparing_and_Installing_Vehicle_Wraps_Or_other_Vinyl_Graphics.php3

I am in the middle of this right now. I have totally disassembled, sanded, filled, and am now doing some final sanding and wondering what to paint them with. The worst part so far is getting the old decal glue off, its nasty shit. I am doing 3 cabs in one shot but only doing the head on one and then painting the inside. the other two are total decal and restore jobs.

I usually hit flea-bay to check the quart size prices and go for who has it for the lowest total cost shipped.

Not a fan of the dry method . No wiggle room. I feel the same way about decals in pinball.

If someone would show the correct way of decaling dry, you would never do wet again .

I can have a large side decal laid down and trimmed before you could open a bottle of rapid tac.

The dry video posted is not the ideal way of doing decals dry. The wet method shown is , SCARY.

Would you show us. I am always up for learning a better way.

Yes, we would appreciate a video from a know pro on the subject.

Thanks.

QSS

The dry method I used was clamps, peel and cut the backing paper in sections, smoothing as I go. I used the edge of this box to smooth as I laid the decal down - did a great job without any scratching. Once the fist part of the decal is laid, the rest of the clamps can be removed.

IMG_0791.JPG IMG_0794.JPG IMG_0795.JPG IMG_0796.JPG IMG_0798.JPG IMG_0805.JPG

I'd be a nervous wreck trying to bull’s-eye a start button doing a cabinet dry.

Would love to see a video that makes it look easy.

I'd still be freakin' though.

There are a few tricks to get things lined up ! Paying attention is one of them .

I am doing a cab in a few weeks . We will see if a video is made.

The coin door is the key decal to get right. I shine a strong light from inside the cab to line it up. Seemed to work very well for me.

Yes please, I would like to see a video of yours, it would be invaluable like the rest of your threads.

QSS

IMHO that is the hardest decal to set. I have seen people use dummy door fillers and similar to apply but getting the door decal right is a must especially if the side are lines up with it.

I might try my next set of cab decals dry on the sides but the front I will still do wet.

Would definitely appreciate a video like this. Wouldn't want to miss an opportunity to learn from someone who's pretty damn good at this.

use a mini mag light, you can put it in the hole and it will shine through the decal so you can get it aligned perfectly.

just saw this so I'll confirm your great suggestion.

need to save this topic

As others have said, all the work is in the prep. I fill and sand a few times and then primer and sand a few times. If the cabinet is not perfect, you will see it. I spend about 40 hours doing a re-decal and I don't rush.

looking forward to seeing a video Jim! It would be greatly appreciated!!!!

The light can be a bit misleading , if the light it not perfectly straight,you could get your alinement off.

do people always do the coin door last?

I thought the coin door was first. I'm planning on new decals for FT in the fall. I'll be attempting the dry method for my first. One of the previous owners got creative with a ballpoint pen. Safe to say that anything will be an improvement.

oops.JPG

I thought on certain machines you are better off doing the coin door first so you can match the sides to it.

but she's such a pretty girl. in the words of mitch hedberg:
"My sister Wendy has a husband and two children, and they have a family photo on top of the VCR, where they're all looking slightly to the left. As though something is going on over there! I guess something happened over to the left that made everybody happy! Except my sister is cross-eyed, so she can't quite pull it off. One eye is right-on."

Yes, if you are not careful your alignment may be off. The mini mag will fit in the start button hole making it easier. I had great success using this method.

Jim- how do you do it?

BIG mistake.

I would love to see any video of a professional cab restorer that would help with the overall process of doing cabinet refinishing. I would pay money to get videos of the step by step process of refinishing a cabinet. I know a guy or two out there were considering doing this.

Chris (HEP) did a great video of a Bally Playboy cabinet restore. Awesome and very informative.

When you have the front decal laying in place, just rub your finger around the start hole and it will leave a slight circular ridge. That's all I do to line things up.

Just like Bryan does . I have done the light thing too but results can very depending on light angle and shadows. The impression method is spot on.

Gotta love it when KISS theory applies..

20 hours seems like too few if you ask me.

I would say it took me around 100 hours to do the cabinet sand, fill, prime, sand, fill, prime, sand fill, prime, sand, paint, decal, paint process.

I do move slow though.

Ive owned a sign shop for 22 years now and never use bought solution. Watered down windex ( half and half ) is all Ive ever used. And with a porous surface the vinyl doesn't stick right away so you have a little time to mess with it so I wouldn't do the wet method. On the applicator I have plastic squeegees with felt on them. In a crunch Ive used bondo squeegees with a sock over them.

I can't wait!!