(Topic ID: 59979)

Time to redecal a cabinet?


By lukerp

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 72 posts
  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Bryan_Kelly
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 8 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    mb_cab.JPG
    oops.JPG
    IMG_0805.JPG
    IMG_0798.JPG
    IMG_0796.JPG
    IMG_0795.JPG
    IMG_0794.JPG
    IMG_0791.JPG

    There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 6 years ago

    Hey all,

    Question for anyone who happens to know. Simply put, how long (ballpark) does it take to do a good redecal job on a machine? I'm thinking at least 20 hours by the time I do teardown, removal of old artwork, filling, sanding, priming, filling, sanding some more, lining up decals? Any input would be greatly appreciated

    Luke

    #2 6 years ago

    Sounds about right. What other input are you looking for?

    #3 6 years ago

    Hey,

    Was more so just curious. Have the game, have the decals, just wondering if I'm biting off more than I can chew. Thanks for the confirmation!

    Luke

    #5 6 years ago

    here is a good video showing the wet application method, a more forgiving method

    #6 6 years ago

    I've just done RFM and FT, and posted. I found it hard to do in1 go,and spread it over a week or so. Total time was only about 1 hour per side to heat/ peel old decals, 20 mins per site for sanding/plugging. 15 mins decals on, 10 mins trim and finish. This doesn't include time to dissasble the machines!

    #7 6 years ago

    Just try to enjoy the process.

    The end results are usually great so if you aren't on a tight schedule, don't cut any corners (nearly every step has a corner you can cut).

    Shortcuts don't end well with this job.

    When you get it looking right, the time taken is quickly forgotten.

    #8 6 years ago

    19 hours prep and 1 hours putting down the decals and trimming.
    Prep is everything and don't rush it.

    #9 6 years ago

    he makes it look easy I'm almost ready to give it a try

    #10 6 years ago

    Prep is everything... if you read closely from all these homemade decal applications... the cabinets are often not smoothed out correctly... and decals do not stay like they should...and then bad things happen...

    #11 6 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    here is a good video showing the wet application method, a more forgiving method
    » YouTube video

    Based upon the video, the wet mood appears reasonable. However, it appears I need a wife who's in the second trimester? That's going to add some time onto the project...

    In all seriousness, thanks for the help. I'll let people know how it goes.

    Luke

    #12 6 years ago
    Quoted from lukerp:

    Based upon the video, the wet mood appears reasonable. However, it appears I need a wife who's in the second trimester? That's going to add some time onto the project...
    In all seriousness, thanks for the help. I'll let people know how it goes.
    Luke

    I used the dry method and followed the video by Tattyadams..... Worked very well.

    #13 6 years ago

    Dry method all the way. I don't care what primer you use, with the wet method you risk swelling the cabinet. Just use multiple clamps and the dry method is easier than wet too.

    #14 6 years ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    here is a good video showing the wet application method, a more forgiving method
    » YouTube video

    That's a good video? No offense but that looks like a pretty hacky method. Use soft edge clamps on your art, not a friggin' transformer.

    This is the best art installation video that I have ever come across. It's on an video game but it applies. Perfect results every time:

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinmods:

    Dry method all the way. I don't care what primer you use, with the wet method you risk swelling the cabinet. Just use multiple clamps and the dry method is easier than wet too.

    Application fluids were developed for application of graphics and it works well. It gives the person some wiggle room for positioning. If you want to roll them out dry then great, its what method you prefer and applying graphics on a flat surface is pretty simple vs a vehicle that is vertical with compound angles and surfaces. I prefer a bottle of Rapid-Tac and my trusted squeegee.

    If your cab is prepped correctly it should be sealed and perfectly flat for decals wet or dry.
    Polyurethane for wood floors is right at home on cabinet wood.

    http://www.signindustry.com/installation/articles/2009-04-01-JL_Application_Fluids_for_Preparing_and_Installing_Vehicle_Wraps_Or_other_Vinyl_Graphics.php3

    #16 6 years ago

    I am in the middle of this right now. I have totally disassembled, sanded, filled, and am now doing some final sanding and wondering what to paint them with. The worst part so far is getting the old decal glue off, its nasty shit. I am doing 3 cabs in one shot but only doing the head on one and then painting the inside. the other two are total decal and restore jobs.

    #17 6 years ago
    Quoted from cal50:

    Application fluids were developed for application of graphics and it works well. It gives the person some wiggle room for positioning. If you want to roll them out dry then great, its what method you prefer and applying graphics on a flat surface is pretty simple vs a vehicle that is vertical with compound angles and surfaces. I prefer a bottle of Rapid-Tac and my trusted squeegee.
    If your cab is prepped correctly it should be sealed and perfectly flat for decals wet or dry.
    Polyurethane for wood floors is right at home on cabinet wood.
    http://www.signindustry.com/installation/articles/2009-04-01-JL_Application_Fluids_for_Preparing_and_Installing_Vehicle_Wraps_Or_other_Vinyl_Graphics.php3

    Hey,

    What is your source for Rapid Tac, if you wouldn't mind?

    Luke

    #18 6 years ago
    Quoted from lukerp:

    Hey,
    What is your source for Rapid Tac, if you wouldn't mind?
    Luke

    I usually hit flea-bay to check the quart size prices and go for who has it for the lowest total cost shipped.

    #19 6 years ago

    Not a fan of the dry method . No wiggle room. I feel the same way about decals in pinball.

    #20 6 years ago

    If someone would show the correct way of decaling dry, you would never do wet again .

    I can have a large side decal laid down and trimmed before you could open a bottle of rapid tac.

    The dry video posted is not the ideal way of doing decals dry. The wet method shown is , SCARY.

    #21 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    If someone would show the correct way of decaling dry, you would never do wet again .
    I can have a large side decal laid down and trimmed before you could open a bottle of rapid tac.
    The dry video posted is not the ideal way of doing decals dry. The wet method shown is , SCARY.

    Would you show us. I am always up for learning a better way.

    #22 6 years ago

    Yes, we would appreciate a video from a know pro on the subject.

    Thanks.

    QSS

    #23 6 years ago

    The dry method I used was clamps, peel and cut the backing paper in sections, smoothing as I go. I used the edge of this box to smooth as I laid the decal down - did a great job without any scratching. Once the fist part of the decal is laid, the rest of the clamps can be removed.

    IMG_0791.JPG IMG_0794.JPG IMG_0795.JPG IMG_0796.JPG IMG_0798.JPG IMG_0805.JPG

    #24 6 years ago

    I'd be a nervous wreck trying to bull’s-eye a start button doing a cabinet dry.

    Would love to see a video that makes it look easy.

    I'd still be freakin' though.

    #25 6 years ago
    Quoted from NM:

    I'd be a nervous wreck trying to bull’s-eye a start button doing a cabinet dry.

    There are a few tricks to get things lined up ! Paying attention is one of them .

    I am doing a cab in a few weeks . We will see if a video is made.

    #26 6 years ago
    Quoted from NM:

    I'd be a nervous wreck trying to bull’s-eye a start button doing a cabinet dry.
    Would love to see a video that makes it look easy.
    I'd still be freakin' though.

    The coin door is the key decal to get right. I shine a strong light from inside the cab to line it up. Seemed to work very well for me.

    #27 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    There are a few tricks to get things lined up ! Paying attention is one of them .
    I am doing a cab in a few weeks . We will see if a video is made.

    Yes please, I would like to see a video of yours, it would be invaluable like the rest of your threads.

    QSS

    #28 6 years ago
    Quoted from NM:

    I'd be a nervous wreck trying to bull’s-eye a start button doing a cabinet dry.

    IMHO that is the hardest decal to set. I have seen people use dummy door fillers and similar to apply but getting the door decal right is a must especially if the side are lines up with it.

    I might try my next set of cab decals dry on the sides but the front I will still do wet.

    #29 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    I am doing a cab in a few weeks . We will see if a video is made.

    Would definitely appreciate a video like this. Wouldn't want to miss an opportunity to learn from someone who's pretty damn good at this.

    #30 6 years ago
    Quoted from NM:

    I'd be a nervous wreck trying to bull’s-eye a start button doing a cabinet dry.
    Would love to see a video that makes it look easy.
    I'd still be freakin' though.

    use a mini mag light, you can put it in the hole and it will shine through the decal so you can get it aligned perfectly.

    #31 6 years ago
    Quoted from lukex:

    The coin door is the key decal to get right. I shine a strong light from inside the cab to line it up. Seemed to work very well for me.

    just saw this so I'll confirm your great suggestion.

    #32 6 years ago

    need to save this topic

    #33 6 years ago

    As others have said, all the work is in the prep. I fill and sand a few times and then primer and sand a few times. If the cabinet is not perfect, you will see it. I spend about 40 hours doing a re-decal and I don't rush.

    #34 6 years ago

    looking forward to seeing a video Jim! It would be greatly appreciated!!!!

    #35 6 years ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    just saw this so I'll confirm your great suggestion.

    The light can be a bit misleading , if the light it not perfectly straight,you could get your alinement off.

    #36 6 years ago

    do people always do the coin door last?

    #37 6 years ago

    I thought the coin door was first. I'm planning on new decals for FT in the fall. I'll be attempting the dry method for my first. One of the previous owners got creative with a ballpoint pen. Safe to say that anything will be an improvement.

    oops.JPG

    #38 6 years ago

    I thought on certain machines you are better off doing the coin door first so you can match the sides to it.

    #39 6 years ago
    Quoted from MMP:

    I thought the coin door was first. I'm planning on new decals for FT in the fall. I'll be attempting the dry method for my first. One of the previous owners got creative with a ballpoint pen. Safe to say that anything will be an improvement.

    but she's such a pretty girl. in the words of mitch hedberg:
    "My sister Wendy has a husband and two children, and they have a family photo on top of the VCR, where they're all looking slightly to the left. As though something is going on over there! I guess something happened over to the left that made everybody happy! Except my sister is cross-eyed, so she can't quite pull it off. One eye is right-on."

    #40 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    The light can be a bit misleading , if the light it not perfectly straight,you could get your alinement off.

    Yes, if you are not careful your alignment may be off. The mini mag will fit in the start button hole making it easier. I had great success using this method.

    Jim- how do you do it?

    #41 6 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    do people always do the coin door last?

    BIG mistake.

    #42 6 years ago

    I would love to see any video of a professional cab restorer that would help with the overall process of doing cabinet refinishing. I would pay money to get videos of the step by step process of refinishing a cabinet. I know a guy or two out there were considering doing this.

    #43 6 years ago
    Quoted from Squeakman:

    I would love to see any video of a professional cab restorer that would help with the overall process of doing cabinet refinishing.

    Chris (HEP) did a great video of a Bally Playboy cabinet restore. Awesome and very informative.

    #44 6 years ago

    #45 6 years ago

    When you have the front decal laying in place, just rub your finger around the start hole and it will leave a slight circular ridge. That's all I do to line things up.

    #46 6 years ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    Jim- how do you do it?

    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    When you have the front decal laying in place, just rub your finger around the start hole and it will leave a slight circular ridge.

    Just like Bryan does . I have done the light thing too but results can very depending on light angle and shadows. The impression method is spot on.

    #47 6 years ago

    Gotta love it when KISS theory applies..

    #48 6 years ago

    20 hours seems like too few if you ask me.

    I would say it took me around 100 hours to do the cabinet sand, fill, prime, sand, fill, prime, sand fill, prime, sand, paint, decal, paint process.

    I do move slow though.

    #49 6 years ago

    Ive owned a sign shop for 22 years now and never use bought solution. Watered down windex ( half and half ) is all Ive ever used. And with a porous surface the vinyl doesn't stick right away so you have a little time to mess with it so I wouldn't do the wet method. On the applicator I have plastic squeegees with felt on them. In a crunch Ive used bondo squeegees with a sock over them.

    #50 6 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    I am doing a cab in a few weeks . We will see if a video is made.

    I can't wait!!

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 18.95
    $ 107.95
    Lighting - Other
    Hookedonpinball.com
    $ 26.95
    $ 26.95
    Playfield - Protection
    ULEKstore
    $ 7,299.00
    Pinball Machine
    Flip N Out Pinball
    $ 114.00
    Lighting - Backbox
    The MOD Couple
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 99.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 9.99
    $ 66.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    From: $ 18.99
    $ 5.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Pinball Haus
    $ 839.00
    Flipper Parts
    Mircoplayfields
    $ 9,500.00
    Pinball Machine
    Great American Pinball
    From: $ 34.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Medisinyl Mods
    $ 14.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    From: $ 8,500.00
    Pinball Machine
    Operation Pinball
    $ 248.85
    Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
    PinWoofer
    $ 12.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Flashinstinct
    $ 20.00
    Electronics
    Yorktown Parts and Equip
    $ 96.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 90.00
    Lighting - Under Cabinet
    Rock Custom Pinball
    There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside