(Topic ID: 320327)

Time Line Power Supply

By tcw16505

3 months ago



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  • 5 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by tcw16505
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#1 3 months ago

Hello,

I am just starting work on a Time Line and noticed that one of the LED's is out, the +5VDC. Any suspect I should turn my attention to? I looked for a rebuild kit but PBR doesn't sell them any more, Marcos just sells the three caps, and bigdaddy is out of stock. I'm guessing a transistors gave out, T107 (SCR1)? Anyone have an opinion on what I should be looking at?

Thanks guys, Tom

#2 3 months ago

Iirc there's a diode that often burns up on these, not sure the exact number off hand, but check them for cracks or burn marks

#3 3 months ago

SCR1 is a power failsafe, called a crowbar circuit. That isn't the problem.

Here is the definitive guide for updating your System 80/80A power supply.
I've done hundreds of these. The job is not hard, even for beginners.
The toughest part is heating both leads of the 2N6057 at the same time so that the PCB can be separated from the cold plate.

Check it out here:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board

Here is a video I made of one rehab:

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#4 3 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

SCR1 is a power failsafe, called a crowbar circuit. That isn't the problem.
Here is the definitive guide for updating your System 80/80A power supply.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Hi Chris, Thanks for the link. It suggests a mandatory parts list. Will the mandatory parts list get me back my 5V again or is that part of the Optional parts list? - Tom

Mandatory parts list:

.156 male header pins without friction lock, 9-pin, 7-pin, 6-pin, or break to size.
500 ohm resistor cermet trimmer potentiometer. A quality sealed one like the one pictured is advised.
3 inches of 18 gauge wire
680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (470, 510, 560, or 620 works also) replacement for R10, originally a 30 ohm 2W resistor and must be replaced if CR7 is replaced with a 1N4738 (below)
1N4738 8.2V 1 watt Zener diode (CR7, originally a 1N3445 8.2V 2W Zener)
12K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (R3)

#5 3 months ago
Quoted from tcw16505:

Hi Chris, Thanks for the link. It suggests a mandatory parts list. Will the mandatory parts list get me back my 5V again or is that part of the Optional parts list? - Tom

Answer, NONE of the above.

For the record it was Q3, PMD10K40. The 12.4 Volts went in and 0.7121 volts came out so that's the deal breaker for the 5V and also why the 5V LED was out, and why the CPU would not boot. I'll try not to be so lazy next time, though honestly I was really tight on time was all. This transistor can be cheaper and more easily available as a 2N6059 and is what bigdaddy uses.

Actual reading at the 12.4V was 14.83VDC
Actual reading at the 5.6V was 0.7121VDC
Actual reading at the 7.0 V was 13.18VDC ( high because it was unloaded due to open Q3, PMD10K40).

Tom

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