(Topic ID: 191646)

Tilt Immediately at game start but no stuck switches??

By cjs001

6 years ago


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  • 59 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by terryb
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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There are 59 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 6 years ago
Quoted from cjs001:

I am getting 114.9 now at pins 17&16 with the PIA out currently.

That's a pretty good sign.

Out if interest, what do you measure on the actual PIA chip (pins 17&16) out of circuit?

#52 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

That's a pretty good sign.
Out if interest, what do you measure on the actual PIA chip (pins 17&16) out of circuit?

On original one out of circuit I am getting nothing. Meter just stays at 1.

Have one dip switch to go. I may be able to try it back in game tonight with all dip switches removed.

#53 6 years ago
Quoted from cjs001:

On original one out of circuit I am getting nothing. Meter just stays at 1.

That's what I get - it's probably safe to say it's not the PIA chip at fault.

#54 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

That's what I get - it's probably safe to say it's not the PIA chip at fault.

Drum roll please.... board back in game with out dip switches and it is not faulting. Has been on for a good 10 min. Played two games, did the switch test twice. All switches are showing with their correct number. The right pop bumper if firing again.
Not going to burn the midnight oil, so ill solder in the new dip switches over the weekend. And resolder all the capactiers under the playfield I disconnected. Few more pics of under the other dip switches, the one nearest the top I didn't photo bc it was clean no issues under it.
Will report back once new switches installed.

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#55 6 years ago

Great stuff. Sounds very promising. Those switch block areas on the board definitely needed attention.

#56 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Great stuff. Sounds very promising. Those switch block areas on the board definitely needed attention.

Finished cleaning the film off the solder pads and reattached the dip switches. Resistance now at U10 pin 17&16 is right around 100. Booted it up and all appears to be working correctly. No issues in switch test or in gameplay. Have a bottle share here tomorrow so the game will be on for awhile and see some playtime so will report back on how it does. Thank you so much again!!!!

#57 6 years ago

Did u find it easy removing those dip switch's from the board

1 week later
#58 6 years ago
Quoted from Raff:

Did u find it easy removing those dip switch's from the board

They didn't give me too much trouble. Flowed some fresh solder on most of the pins then used my hakko to remove the solder. Had to pry gentle even with the legs clearly free to get them to lift of the board, no damage came to the traces/solder pad. So far still working okay since replacing them.

#59 6 years ago
Quoted from cjs001:

Had to pry gentle even with the legs clearly free to get them to lift of the board, no damage came to the traces/solder pad.

There's often a little bit of trace solder holding the component leads to the board. Either grab the component with a pair of pliers and rotate clockwise and anti-clockwise gently or use a spudger to break the contact point.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1/page/3#post-2755985

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