^ Even when you find them, they will be 1 or 2mm different in size from the originals, just to give you more work to do.
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^ Even when you find them, they will be 1 or 2mm different in size from the originals, just to give you more work to do.
WD40 sucks as a lubricant, but it's great at removing decal adhesive and getting chewing-gum out of pubic hair
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks man
Majorly depressed tonight. The hardtop I have is part of “the bad batch” and tons of artwork has lifted and separated from the underside. I’m walking away from this for a while.
Pics?
Quoted from mrm_4:Just pull it and use goo gone to remove the adhesive. Another pinsider PM’d me how they did it. Basically said it sucks and takes forever.
I wondered myself if heat would help in this case. Seems like uncharted territory, any suggestions?
It's the same 3M 300LSE adhesive used on cellphones, and to replace the screens on those I set my heatgun to 100*C (212*F)
3M says it will stay stuck up to 300*F, but even at 200*F, it just peels away easy.
I'd think that a household iron could be used quickly before the insert glue gets too hot, maybe with a cotton pillow case between the iron and the Hardtop
Make a video for sure, and start in an area that does not have any inserts (till you get a feel for how much heat it takes)
On a phone, the adhesive stays behind when you pull the broken screen off.
you roll adhesive onto itself while it's warm and make kind of a ball with it
if all the ink comes off, I guess you'll have a playfield protector that you could sell to someone for a couple bucks to protect their genuine Xenon playfield
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Still debating how I want to block off all the lamp sockets.. old bulbs which I immediately remove after I spray? Something else? Idk.
Yep, protect the lamp sockets with old incan bulbs.
Leave them until the clear dries. If you remove them when wet, trash will fall into the clear.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Guess that makes sense, just let it dry for 15 or whatever between coats...right? Then remove bulbs, buff/wetsand, put back in, spray more...rinse and repeat? Or am I still looking at it wrong?
Only put the bulbs in during spraying.
Remove bulbs for sanding or buffing
You will blow the buffing compound out of all the holes and sockets, before it dries.
Any bad sockets you will quickly find, because the little springs break off just from the compressed air.
Quoted from Kderrick:As a newb doing my first machine and know absolutely nothing about any of this, I’m terrified now.
Because they made 11,000 Xenons, every playfield restorer has a pile of old ones.
If you worry about spraying clear or applying a hardtop, you can have have it done by a restorer, and then have a ready-to-go unit on your doorstep in a week or so.
All the popular games, like Xenon, SBM and Playboy are like that........
Quoted from mrm_4:This flipper mech design sucks so bad. I rebuilt these and it seems that a little knuckle has developed after about 25 games....
This flipper keeps hanging up because of it.
Linear flippers suck ass and pass blame.
Quoted from mrm_4:Only bummer is this water damage that I thought was smoothed out enough ended up showing. I’ll light sand the peaks down after a few days and see if another coat will cover. If not then maybe when I clear it’ll help. If not then fuck it, it’s the back. The wall will just have to deal with it.
That sucks when that happens.
You need something that will cure super quick, before it telegraphs though again.
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