(Topic ID: 282308)

Thruster? I just met her!!!: Xenon Restoration

By mrm_4

3 years ago


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  • 377 posts
  • 32 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 31 Pinsiders

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#38 3 years ago

^ Even when you find them, they will be 1 or 2mm different in size from the originals, just to give you more work to do.

#42 3 years ago

You can boil most clear inserts in Methylene Blue dye if you want them blue, just like you dye playfield posts or pop caps.

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#49 3 years ago

Don't forget, there are translucent drop targets nowadays for maximum Bally sexiness. I'm going to put those on my Xenon soon, and light them in Red.

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-bally-star-trek-1979-drop-target-bally-classic-p-54.html

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#54 3 years ago

Spray wd-40 on that adhesive, then cover with a paper towel soaked with wd-40

Leave overnight

10
#57 3 years ago

WD40 sucks as a lubricant, but it's great at removing decal adhesive and getting chewing-gum out of pubic hair

#60 3 years ago

^ Kramer looks good!

#71 3 years ago

Make sure you stick it in the right hole

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4 weeks later
#121 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Thanks man
Majorly depressed tonight. The hardtop I have is part of “the bad batch” and tons of artwork has lifted and separated from the underside. I’m walking away from this for a while.

Pics?

#124 3 years ago

Wow, that sucks!

How are they suggesting you remove the Hard Top? Heat? Solvent? Household iron?

#126 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Just pull it and use goo gone to remove the adhesive. Another pinsider PM’d me how they did it. Basically said it sucks and takes forever.
I wondered myself if heat would help in this case. Seems like uncharted territory, any suggestions?

It's the same 3M 300LSE adhesive used on cellphones, and to replace the screens on those I set my heatgun to 100*C (212*F)

3M says it will stay stuck up to 300*F, but even at 200*F, it just peels away easy.

I'd think that a household iron could be used quickly before the insert glue gets too hot, maybe with a cotton pillow case between the iron and the Hardtop

Make a video for sure, and start in an area that does not have any inserts (till you get a feel for how much heat it takes)

#128 3 years ago

On a phone, the adhesive stays behind when you pull the broken screen off.

you roll adhesive onto itself while it's warm and make kind of a ball with it

#129 3 years ago

if all the ink comes off, I guess you'll have a playfield protector that you could sell to someone for a couple bucks to protect their genuine Xenon playfield

#149 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Still debating how I want to block off all the lamp sockets.. old bulbs which I immediately remove after I spray? Something else? Idk.

Yep, protect the lamp sockets with old incan bulbs.

Leave them until the clear dries. If you remove them when wet, trash will fall into the clear.

#193 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Guess that makes sense, just let it dry for 15 or whatever between coats...right? Then remove bulbs, buff/wetsand, put back in, spray more...rinse and repeat? Or am I still looking at it wrong?

Only put the bulbs in during spraying.

Remove bulbs for sanding or buffing

You will blow the buffing compound out of all the holes and sockets, before it dries.

Any bad sockets you will quickly find, because the little springs break off just from the compressed air.

#200 3 years ago
Quoted from Kderrick:

As a newb doing my first machine and know absolutely nothing about any of this, I’m terrified now.

Because they made 11,000 Xenons, every playfield restorer has a pile of old ones.

If you worry about spraying clear or applying a hardtop, you can have have it done by a restorer, and then have a ready-to-go unit on your doorstep in a week or so.

All the popular games, like Xenon, SBM and Playboy are like that........

#217 3 years ago

Vovex?

#239 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

This flipper mech design sucks so bad. I rebuilt these and it seems that a little knuckle has developed after about 25 games....
This flipper keeps hanging up because of it.

Linear flippers suck ass and pass blame.

1 month later
#276 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Only bummer is this water damage that I thought was smoothed out enough ended up showing. I’ll light sand the peaks down after a few days and see if another coat will cover. If not then maybe when I clear it’ll help. If not then fuck it, it’s the back. The wall will just have to deal with it.

That sucks when that happens.

You need something that will cure super quick, before it telegraphs though again.

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