(Topic ID: 282308)

Thruster? I just met her!!!: Xenon Restoration

By mrm_4

3 years ago


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  • 377 posts
  • 32 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by mrm_4
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#72 3 years ago

I was wondering if you started another hardtop project. I just stumbled on this thread. Looking good my man!

I commend your effort going the extra mile to replace all those inserts. Looks like a lot of frustration, but it will be worth it every time you look at the game. This one will come out looking even better than the Mata Hari.

Also nice to see Vid back adding helpful tips!

1 week later
#86 3 years ago

Well done on that shooter lane.

Now I can't recall specifically, but didn't we both use the Minwax wipe-on polyurethane for the shoot lane areas on our Mati Hari projects? I can't remember who I got the idea from, but I'm still very satisfied how multiple coats of that stuff has been protecting my shooter lane & saucer so far.

I'm just curious why you didn't use that brush-on Auto Urethane in the first place. Spraying clear seems like a lot of extra work when you're eventually just putting a hardtop on.

Keep up the good work!

2 weeks later
#115 3 years ago

Really nice job so far...as usual. I like what you did with the lighted posts at the ball lock saucer. I put some on my Embryon & tied them into the pops. I love the effect when they turn on. A little pricey but worth it for some standout areas.

I hope you are keeping this one

#117 3 years ago

Oh no! How could that have happened? Bad printing process with the inks?

#123 3 years ago

Wow that's really surprising, and quite a kick to the nuts after putting in all that time, hard work & assembly. I'm sure people would hear me dropping F-bombs two states over if that happen to me. Deep breath, count to ten, and then back to work I guess. I feel your pain. At least Outside Edge making it right.

It sure looked pretty for a while there tho!

1 week later
#151 3 years ago

So Outside Edge now recommends you spray clear to entire sanded playfield before applying hardtops? For better adhesion? For better binding surface? Perhaps I'm reading that wrong.

I can understand if you want to spray the inserts instead of sanding them, but spraying the entire playfield kinda defeats the whole purpose of a simple hardtop install.

I guess I'd just like to hear why OE feels your hardtop inks failed.

#163 3 years ago

All things considered, I'd say that technique turned out pretty well. Getting most that adhesive off on the initial pull up is a win.

I used Vid's flour method to get the mylar off on my Mata Hari. You could always give that a try instead of the goo gone.

Nice Boba btw

1 month later
#270 3 years ago

Yeah those metallic paints from a rattle can....they can be a bitch. I'd say try to avoid yourself some aggravation and only spray onto horizontal surfaces if possible.

The head was easier, but I had insane problems getting even coats when doing base coat passes over the entire side of the cabinet. It's a large area to cover. Even if my technique, speed & overlap were good (which it usually wasn't)....then then damn can would stop flowing evenly or spatter a drop of paint, which then drops on the sparkle flake & creates a defect. The metallic flakes just have a tendency to create a streaking effect. At least that was my experience on my QS. I just kept repeating passes until I ran out of paint.

If you had a proper paint gun setup, I think you'd have more success. The cans have their own issues. But I know you can do it for sure. Just have a clean towel to scream into nearby It was so frustrating for me that I would probably not use metallic paints again.

With that said, most people look at my cabinet & say it looks awesome. And none of it will matter when the lights get turned off.

1 week later
#288 3 years ago

Could it be that you're just moving way too fast? I couldn't imaging spraying primer, paint & clear all within an hour.

They say it takes a full 24 hrs or more for each layer to fully cure. I don't think you're giving enough time to let each layer adhere properly. You got a poor bond & that's why the stencils pulled the paint up?

Bummer man. Back to square one. I hate seeing stuff like this because cabinet prep & panting is the worst part of a restore.

#290 3 years ago

hmmmm.....well you could be right then. That's the primer brand I've always used, but I purchase the 2-in-1 Sandable Primer. Not sure the difference between the "2-in-1" vs the standard "sandable" primer cans though.

Or it could be that damn metallic paint throwing you an unexpected curve ball.

2 weeks later
#307 3 years ago

I was wondering how this was going. What a nightmare. You did a nice job saving it with the brush touchups though. Fingers crossed that the red stencils give you no further headaches. Quadruple check your alignment before laying the decal down.

That's crazy it dries that fast on you, considering it's not even that hot & humid outside yet. Those damn metallic paints. After seeing stuff like this, I'll never switch from using Molotow Premium paints. I've never had an issue with stencils lifting paint. Maybe give them a try on your next refurb.

#313 3 years ago

IDK what's more impressive..... the paint job or how green your grass is for April. Haha

Well done. What a relief!

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