Quoted from mrm_4:Got some Mother’s polish to try out.
Pretty good stuff
Before
Mothers Mag? By hand or did you use a buffing wheel?
Quoted from Colsond3:Mothers Mag? By hand or did you use a buffing wheel?
Just by hand. I need to invest in a wheel my wrists and fingers are fusing together in the joints
Quoted from mrm_4:Just by hand. I need to invest in a wheel my wrists and fingers are fusing together in the joints
Haha. You do. My old one burnt out and I just picked up a new one off Amazon for $65 that’s pretty decent. Now I need to use it.
15CAADAD-1684-4F3D-8CE7-7E63588D8C22 (resized).jpegI went with @zitt’s transparent yellow targets. I realized after I installed them that these don’t have the tab at the bottom to solder the wires to.
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So I stole a blade off an old switch from an extra firepower harness.
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I installed 6 post lights on the left side of the playfield that are meant to be attached to the GI.
I did my best to keep the new wires organized.
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I tied them all into 2 jumpers that I also stole from my extra Firepower harness.
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I was able to disassemble and reassemble the original roll overs. I was worried that the hardtop was going to mess with the height and what not from reading other’s experience but these are fine they sit high and the switches are adjusted to make contact with no problem.
Maybe I’m missing something or will notice something during game play.
The final pieces of random cleaning.
The tube was filthy man oh man.
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Any screws that are top side I put in the drill and spin on wet 1000 grit sand paper long enough to realize I have an OCD problem and need meds
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The support posts that grip the arch were pretty gross looking so I sanded them a little and spray painted them gloss white.560EC28C-94D3-45D8-893D-6669615159B9 (resized).jpeg33A33A55-7C3B-4899-9E4B-A452FFEC652F (resized).jpeg
Bottom side is done!
Cleaned up the harness
All metal cleaned and polished
New caps
New coil wrappers
Fixed lighting hacks
Added mech labels
Flex tubing added to harness where it feeds to the head and cab
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Top side is good minus the back rail and arch plastics due to the rotisserie clamps.
I’m going to add a spot light up by the tube and I want to mask the black areas of my modified plastic and add a mini strip of LEDs under the new part.
Still a little list but it’s good enough to show off until then.
Quoted from mrm_4:Top side is good minus the back rail and arch plastics due to the rotisserie clamps.
I’m going to add a spot light up by the tube and I want to mask the black areas of my modified plastic and add a mini strip of LEDs under the new part.
Still a little list but it’s good enough to show off until then.
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Could you take a few more pictures? Thanks!
I’m not happy with the bleed water slides let through with the light.
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I took the original photo paper print and exacto knifed out the gaseous clouds. Similar to how I masked the coin plates I made.
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Really makes a difference.
Really nice job so far...as usual. I like what you did with the lighted posts at the ball lock saucer. I put some on my Embryon & tied them into the pops. I love the effect when they turn on. A little pricey but worth it for some standout areas.
I hope you are keeping this one
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Really nice job so far...as usual. I like what you did with the lighted posts at the ball lock saucer. I put some on my Embryon & tied them into the pops. I love the effect when they turn on. A little pricey but worth it for some standout areas.
I hope you are keeping this one
Thanks man
Majorly depressed tonight. The hardtop I have is part of “the bad batch” and tons of artwork has lifted and separated from the underside. I’m walking away from this for a while.
Quoted from mrm_4:the bad batch
So sorry to hear this. I don't know anything about how they mark their products. Makes me wonder if they can do a recall based on serial numbers, etc.
-mof
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks man
Majorly depressed tonight. The hardtop I have is part of “the bad batch” and tons of artwork has lifted and separated from the underside. I’m walking away from this for a while.
Well that sucks. Did you buy direct, or on the secondary market?
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Oh no! How could that have happened? Bad printing process with the inks?
Quoted from mof:So sorry to hear this. I don't know anything about how they mark their products. Makes me wonder if they can do a recall based on serial numbers, etc.
-mof
Quoted from Colsond3:Well that sucks. Did you buy direct, or on the secondary market?
Yeah its a bummer but the good thing is Bruce and rest of outside edge is an amazing company. I'm working details out with him for a replacement, we had a nice conversation on the phone today.
Gonna take a little breather. Get mentally prepared to pull the bad one, and press forward...
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks man
Majorly depressed tonight. The hardtop I have is part of “the bad batch” and tons of artwork has lifted and separated from the underside. I’m walking away from this for a while.
Pics?
So capturing pics is a little difficult because of the shiny surface but it’s basically like a kind of ghosting. The issue has been identified and obviously Bruce is helping those that have it so I’m not going into more around that but this is what it looks like.
Shit happens but it’s being made right and once the few stragglers left that have it are replaced it’ll never happen again!
#longlivehardtops
Wow that's really surprising, and quite a kick to the nuts after putting in all that time, hard work & assembly. I'm sure people would hear me dropping F-bombs two states over if that happen to me. Deep breath, count to ten, and then back to work I guess. I feel your pain. At least Outside Edge making it right.
It sure looked pretty for a while there tho!
Quoted from vid1900:Wow, that sucks!
How are they suggesting you remove the Hard Top? Heat? Solvent? Household iron?
Just pull it and use goo gone to remove the adhesive. Another pinsider PM’d me how they did it. Basically said it sucks and takes forever.
I wondered myself if heat would help in this case. Seems like uncharted territory, any suggestions?
Quoted from mrm_4:Just pull it and use goo gone to remove the adhesive. Another pinsider PM’d me how they did it. Basically said it sucks and takes forever.
I wondered myself if heat would help in this case. Seems like uncharted territory, any suggestions?
It's the same 3M 300LSE adhesive used on cellphones, and to replace the screens on those I set my heatgun to 100*C (212*F)
3M says it will stay stuck up to 300*F, but even at 200*F, it just peels away easy.
I'd think that a household iron could be used quickly before the insert glue gets too hot, maybe with a cotton pillow case between the iron and the Hardtop
Make a video for sure, and start in an area that does not have any inserts (till you get a feel for how much heat it takes)
Quoted from vid1900:It's the same 3M 300LSE adhesive used on cellphones, and to replace the screens on those I set my heatgun to 100*C (212*F)
3M says it will stay stuck up to 300*F, but even at 200*F, it just peels away easy.
I'd think that a household iron could be used quickly before the insert glue gets too hot, maybe with a cotton pillow case between the iron and the Hardtop
Make a video for sure, and start in an area that does not have any inserts (till you get a feel for how much heat it takes)
I’m just wondering how well the ink will hold onto the plastic. I can see the plastic pulling away and leaving a nice bed of inked adhesive. Once I get the replacement I’ll begin the top side tear down and show you what I end up doing.
On a phone, the adhesive stays behind when you pull the broken screen off.
you roll adhesive onto itself while it's warm and make kind of a ball with it
if all the ink comes off, I guess you'll have a playfield protector that you could sell to someone for a couple bucks to protect their genuine Xenon playfield
Quoted from vid1900:if all the ink comes off, I guess you'll have a playfield protector that you could sell to someone for a couple bucks to protect their genuine Xenon playfield
HAHAHAHA that one got me
So to keep pressing forward I’m gonna tackle the coin door.
Every single piece except the skin is soaking in evaporust and will be ran through the tumbler.
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The skin impresses me. For being routed there’s hardly a dent or a scratch on it.
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I’ll take a pad to it and run through a ton of grits of sand paper until I like the sheen. Going to try to match the reflection of the new Bally decal85193879-8960-4227-8A74-FB439882A048 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from mrm_4:Hot Damn!
At least the door will look good
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What grit did you take it to?
Quoted from edward472:What grit did you take it to?
Set a timer for 5 minutes on each grit and jumped quite a bit.
600
1000
2000
3000
Mother’s Mag
Could’ve probably stepped through more in between and sanded longer but by hand the end result is the same without buying a wheel. Or some other tools.
My ebd did the same thing. Someone removed the adhesive from between the art and the PETG without telling OE is what i was told. Removal sucks balls but I had mine done in a few days. Just tedious as all hell. I'm slowly puttering toward being ready to shoot clear..need to wrap up a couple of inserts..
I may finish it someday, if I don't light it on fire first.
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Quoted from mrm_4:Replaced the hacked up wire harness on the door.
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I love me a nice clean coin door
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So hott.
PS - KSUWildcatFan my shuttle had the same issue as you gents. It's not bothering me that much, so I have not replaced it yet. Looking forward to mrm_4 or Vid Guide on the process.
Quoted from misterhare:So hott.
PS - ksuwildcatfan my shuttle had the same issue as you gents. It's not bothering me that much, so I have not replaced it yet. Looking forward to mrm_4 or Vid Guide on the process.
I might just cut my inserts out and burn the bad one off
Quoted from misterhare:So hott.
PS - ksuwildcatfan my shuttle had the same issue as you gents. It's not bothering me that much, so I have not replaced it yet. Looking forward to mrm_4 or Vid Guide on the process.
Mine grenaded itself HARD, and in a hurry. Basically from the first play on. Super frustrating.
20201213_181556 (resized).jpgreceived_1032304613935117 (resized).jpegreceived_1570967649774134 (resized).jpegreceived_217611409742757 (resized).jpegreceived_393747268625275 (resized).jpegreceived_427864504914284 (resized).jpegreceived_719095808720562 (resized).jpegreceived_951421245678833 (resized).jpegI dug out the old side rails I pulled off my first resto (mata Hari) and took a stab at cleaning them up.
I stubbled across this video and decided to get the anvil and hammer.
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I started pounding the dents so they’d be proud on the top and then filed to find the low spots.
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After running 320 grit over the file marks it’s actually cleaning up pretty nice.5A593FC8-E49A-4CA6-887D-0FBCBD665C93 (resized).jpeg
I know I said I was going to step away from this game for a while but I just can’t. It’s too sexy....
I got an order from Comet and switched out the infinity bulbs to the retro bullet clear domes. I chose natural white to keep continuity in color with the bulbs in the playfield. I like the look.
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I also got a strip light to put against the rail under the modified plastic. Now the clouds are lit up and the pop bumper area has a little more light as well.
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I tried to tie in a spot light with the bulbs that flash when you hit the ramp switch but it ended up being pointless. Gonna remove this set up and put something else there.
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New hardtop is scheduled to arrive tomorrow
Awesome work!
How did you made the coil wrappers? Or did you bought them ready made?
Good luck with you new hard top. That machine will be just beautiful
Quoted from Bele20097:Awesome work!
How did you made the coil wrappers? Or did you bought them ready made?
Good luck with you new hard top. That machine will be just beautiful
I print from @inkochnito’s site:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
I outline it more in post #47
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/thruster-i-just-met-her-xenon-restoration-#post-5997460
Yellow paper, scissors, and double sided adhesive
Quoted from mrm_4:I print from inkochnito’s site:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
I outline it more in post #47
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/thruster-i-just-met-her-xenon-restoration-#post-5997460
Yellow paper, scissors, and double sided adhesive
Perfect!
Awaiting the follow up on your restoration log.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Mine grenaded itself HARD, and in a hurry. Basically from the first play on. Super frustrating.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Curious about this, did they offer you a replacement?
Quoted from bobukcat:Curious about this, did they offer you a replacement?
Yep, got a free replacement. I'm dragging my ass on getting the new one put down. Need to glue the four inserts I replaced, then start sanding with higher grit and naphtha the hell out of it so I can get ready to shoot clear. Still debating how I want to block off all the lamp sockets.. old bulbs which I immediately remove after I spray? Something else? Idk. I had no intention of shooting clear but that's what OE STRONGLY recommended I do, so I'm going to. If this second hardtop fails it may well get beaten with a sledge and then torched in my yard. I'm only half kidding.
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Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Still debating how I want to block off all the lamp sockets.. old bulbs which I immediately remove after I spray? Something else? Idk.
Yep, protect the lamp sockets with old incan bulbs.
Leave them until the clear dries. If you remove them when wet, trash will fall into the clear.
Quoted from vid1900:Yep, protect the lamp sockets with old incan bulbs.
Leave them until the clear dries. If you remove them when wet, trash will fall into the clear.
I knew you'd be prowling around; I hoped you'd chime in! As always, thanks vid.
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