(Topic ID: 321381)

Three Inch Feet on EM Pinball Machines?

By DanMarino

1 year ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by ChipS
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    #1 1 year ago

    Hi Guys,

    I have a Card Whiz that is playing pretty slow and floaty. I was looking at the adjustable feet on the machine and comparing it to my Flight 2000 and High Speed. Both of the solid state machines had 3 inch adjustable feet on them and the Card Whiz only has 2 inch feet. Is it common practice to install feet with 3 inch adjustable bolts on the back of EM's?

    Thanks for your feedback.

    Tom

    #2 1 year ago

    It's your game, you can add more pitch to it if you want. However EM's by design are supposed to play more laterally than up/down like more modern games. There are many EM games that rely on the lucky bounce from a mech or a nudge from the player to complete a sequence and with more pitch you may not get those bounces anymore and it will be tough to complete the goal of the game.

    #3 1 year ago

    When I replace leg levelers, I always get 3" ones just for flexibility alone. At the end of the day, pitch the game as to how you like it. If you prefer more floaty playstyle, you do you. I personally prefer a faster ball, EM or not. If the next person wants to lower it, there's room for that too. No wrong answer here.

    #4 1 year ago

    I always buy the 3" levelers even if I don't utilize the whole length.

    #5 1 year ago

    Last time I tried to buy 3" levelers for an EM Steve Young nearly blew a gasket.

    #6 1 year ago

    I use 3” in the back, 2” in the front. I once asked Clay Harrell if he had a preferred slope, and he said “All the way up in the back and all the way down in the front.” I assume he meant 2” levelers all around, so I start with the 3” levelers in the back adjusted roughly as high as the top of a 2” leveler and the front levelers only one full turn above bottoming out, and adjust from there for balance (my basement floor is uneven) and slope if need be, but that’s usually close to how I like it. I like EMs to play fast.

    #7 1 year ago

    Great input guys and I was laughing about the Steve Young post. Thanks for filling me in on what you guys do.

    #8 1 year ago

    I have seen 3 inch extended start to bend. Not sure if it was the leveler itself or the leg bottom itself.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from wolverinetuner:

    I use 3” in the back, 2” in the front. I once asked Clay Harrell if he had a preferred slope, and he said “All the way up in the back and all the way down in the front.” I assume he meant 2” levelers all around, so I start with the 3” levelers in the back adjusted roughly as high as the top of a 2” leveler and the front levelers only one full turn above bottoming out, and adjust from there for balance (my basement floor is uneven) and slope if need be, but that’s usually close to how I like it. I like EMs to play fast.

    I also have 3” levelers in the back and 2 inch levelers in the front. I Jack the backs up as high as possible and adjust the fronts so that the game is level (pitched basement floor) and so all my games have 6 degree slope.

    I think what Steve Young blows a gasket about is when EM people order 3” levelers all the way around, when the 2” ones are all that’s needed in front.

    #10 1 year ago

    EM manuals on my games say to level the bottom of the cabinet front to back and then adjust for level side to side. The slope is built in. That's how the game was designed to be played for maximum profit and enjoyability.

    As mentioned above, there may be some shots that cannot be made if the slope is too far off what it was designed for. An example is Heat Wave. You cannot make this skill shot - hit all five buttons- if the slope is wrong.

    Play it how you like it or how it was designed to be played. It’s your call.

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    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from wolverinetuner:

    I use 3” in the back, 2” in the front. ...

    This.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    EM manuals on my games say to level the bottom of the cabinet front to back and then adjust for level side to side. The slope is built in. That's how the game was designed to be played for maximum profit and enjoyability.
    As mentioned above, there may be some shots that cannot be made if the slope is too far off what it was designed for. An example is Heat Wave. You cannot make this skill shot - hit all five buttons- if the slope is wrong.
    Play it how you like it or how it was designed to be played. It’s your call.
    [quoted image]

    This.

    But I also use 3" on the rear legs of my EM's, I like the added speed. But it is something you have to play around with a bit as the slope, ball speed and angles all change how the game plays from the original intent.

    #13 1 year ago

    I prefer to put 28-1/2" legs on the front and 31" legs on the back. Levelers all the way in and the game is a solid footing instead of on stilts in the rear.

    Boom.

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ballypin:

    I prefer to put 28-1/2" legs on the front and 31" legs on the back. Levelers all the way in and the game is a solid footing instead of on stilts in the rear.
    Boom.

    I'm about to do this with my Argosy. Gonna put some tall Gottlieb legs in the back for extra pitch.

    #15 1 year ago

    I didn't expect this many replies. Thanks for making pinside better by having helpful posts.

    #16 1 year ago

    I recall reading somewhere that Gottlieb recommended the decline be set at 3.5 degrees. Modern games are set at about double that, I believe.

    You can use something like this to measure the angle of decline: https://www.amazon.com/Trend-DLB-Digital-Level-Box/dp/B01HF9FJJU/ref=sr_1_5

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from ChipS:

    I recall reading somewhere that Gottlieb recommended the decline be set at 3.5 degrees. Modern games are set at about double that, I believe.
    You can use something like this to measure the angle of decline: amazon.com link »

    They did recommend the 3.5% slope. I can’t imagine how slow that would be especially on Gottlieb EM games which for the most part weren’t noted for being fast playing to begin with.

    For me 6% feels right but to each his own.

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    #18 1 year ago

    3" feet also allow more versatility for leveling on an uneven floor like mine.

    #19 1 year ago

    The bit about having the leg levelers all the same assumes a level building. They haven’t been to my place.

    #20 1 year ago

    Steve told me EM leg levelers, with minor corrections for uneven surfaces, should be at or near the bottom on all four legs.

    Blech! Nobody got time for dat!

    #21 1 year ago

    After reading this post, I did an experiment with my Gottlieb Atlantis. The slope was set at 4 1/2 degrees. So I lowered the back legs and set it at 3 1/2 degrees. It was a COMPLETELY different game. It was slower, for sure. But it also made the game BETTER. Some examples:

    - At 4.5 degrees, the top three rollovers have very little "play" in them. You gotta really nudge it hard to make the ball move into a different lane. Not so at 3.5 degrees. It bounces all around the top three rollovers.

    - Same thing with the bagatelle on the right side of the playfield. There's a lot more play and nudging ability at 3.5 degrees versus 4.5 degrees.

    - At 4.5 degrees, if the ball exits the bagatelle at the #2 or #8 rollover, 90% of the time it's going SDTM. But at 3.5 degrees, if the ball exits the bagatelle at those spots, it's more than likely gonna make it to the left flipper.

    I gotta believe Ed Krynski factored all of this into his design for the playfield and that's why Gottlieb suggested the 3.5 degree pitch. I'm gonna try to same experiment on my other EMs. Curious to see if there are similar effects.

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