(Topic ID: 141983)

Thoughts on preemptively replacing 5v TO-3 regulators?

By ForceFlow

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Patofnaud
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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    #1 8 years ago

    Power supplies and driver boards from various machines and manufacturers tend to use a TO-3 regulator for 5v (namely, classic Bally/Stern driver boards and Gottlieb System 1/80 power supplies).

    One school of thought seems to be that if the regulator is working and putting out good voltage, that it's fine to leave it. Another school of thought is that since you're rebuilding the board anyway, to just go ahead and replace it, especially since a replacement is typically rated higher voltage/amperage than the original.

    Any thoughts on going one way or the other?

    b-solehv3.jpgb-solehv3.jpg

    #2 8 years ago

    I've been upgrading. These ezsbc regulators are awesome. You do have to remove R49 and Replace R50 with a jumper.

    Pros:
    Less weight -- no heat sink needed.
    Less heat
    adjustable voltage

    Cons:
    have to remove r49 and jumper r50

    IMG_20151019_130125.jpgIMG_20151019_130125.jpg

    #3 8 years ago

    ForceFlow, I've been mentally taking notice of all the different machines you post about and tech help you give.. and just now noticed you have 25 machines listed in your collection. That's pretty crazy after only a year! And you look like you're getting pretty proficient with a lot of them too. That's how it was for me.. only it was my father's doing.. getting an assortment of machines very quick and then realizing I needed easier ways to work through issues (thus the test equipment I make). Wish I could say I knew any one system really well.. but just been so scattered with what I'm fixing over the years.. most eras of pinball machines up until WPC and then stuff like Skee-balls, Baytek alleys, Smart Ball, shuffle alleys, occasional arcade game.. it's been a journey Anyway kudos on how far you've come in such a short amount of time!

    Sorry not really adding to this post, I like the idea of these EZSBC regulators. Linear are putting off more heat (wasted $$$), so the switching regulators probably pay for themselves fairly quick... it's less heat for the backglasses and other components in the back box. Been thinking this is the way I'd go with classic machines I'm keeping. Just makes too much sense not to for the people that have decent soldering experience. For people that don't.. well.. if the power supply doesn't have an issue then it may not be worth the cost to have someone change it out unless it goes bad.

    ---
    http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
    Kits, upgrades and test equipment for pinball machines

    #4 8 years ago

    If you're repairing a board don't worry about it. If you're rebuilding a board (and know how to solder) I would do the replacement.

    The problem is that we see a ton boards where people are replacing components that are not failing and end up trashing the board. Unfortunately the clause I added above isn't enough because there seems to be a lot of people who don't know how to solder, but think they do.

    #5 8 years ago

    Replace the regulator with EZSBC because you want lower current draw not because the LM323k might fail. If you want a preemptive fix, replace the filter cap with a high quality japenese brand. It feels like i find 10 out of spec filter caps for every bad lm323k regualtor.

    LM323K has been proven reliable for the most part over 30+ years. EZSBC probably is just as reliable, but they havent been out that long. Something to consider.

    #6 8 years ago

    And if you do replace and use the EZSBC, keep the heat sink on for looks. Else its a WTF factor IMHO.

    #7 8 years ago

    One trick when rebuilding your own supplies to keep in your long term keepers, use the EZSBC. Then keep the still working LM's for future 'repairs' of random boards.

    #8 8 years ago
    Quoted from acebathound:

    ForceFlow, I've been mentally taking notice of all the different machines you post about and tech help you give.. and just now noticed you have 25 machines listed in your collection. That's pretty crazy after only a year! And you look like you're getting pretty proficient with a lot of them too. That's how it was for me.. only it was my father's doing.. getting an assortment of machines very quick and then realizing I needed easier ways to work through issues (thus the test equipment I make). Wish I could say I knew any one system really well.. but just been so scattered with what I'm fixing over the years.. most eras of pinball machines up until WPC and then stuff like Skee-balls, Baytek alleys, Smart Ball, shuffle alleys, occasional arcade game.. it's been a journey Anyway kudos on how far you've come in such a short amount of time!
    Sorry not really adding to this post, I like the idea of these EZSBC regulators. Linear are putting off more heat (wasted $$$), so the switching regulators probably pay for themselves fairly quick... it's less heat for the backglasses and other components in the back box. Been thinking this is the way I'd go with classic machines I'm keeping. Just makes too much sense not to for the people that have decent soldering experience. For people that don't.. well.. if the power supply doesn't have an issue then it may not be worth the cost to have someone change it out unless it goes bad.
    ---
    http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
    Kits, upgrades and test equipment for pinball machines

    [off-topic] Yeah, I'm not really locked into specific titles--I'm a bargain hunter, so I'll pick up anything. I was able to build on existing skillsets, so that helped with repairs somewhat. A lot of my fun comes from bringing these games back to life. Seeing all these different systems has helped a bit too since there a lot of similarities between them taken from a bird's eye view. It's interesting to see some of the designs and concepts that were "borrowed" from one manufacturer and used with another. The only downside is the ridiculous amount of space that parts take up to have on-hand for repairs.

    Unfortunately, I'm not a electronics wizard, nor have I had any formal training in the fundamentals of this area, so I still have quite a bit of learning to do. Either way, I'm always happy to pass on what I learn.[/off-topic]

    While the EZSBC component is a really neat item, it doesn't look like it works as a replacement for System 1 or System 80 power supplies. What would you do with the regulators for those? Would the regulators be fatigued after 30 years and is just one of those parts that is a good idea to replace, or is that just a silly thing to do when it seems to test good? Like I said earlier, I've read two different viewpoints on this, so I'm curious to find out what the best practice would normally be.

    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    And if you do replace and use the EZSBC, keep the heat sink on for looks. Else its a WTF factor IMHO.

    I actually have a few driver boards that were scavenged for parts at some point and are missing the heatsinks. Using an EZSBC would certainly save me the trouble (and expense) of trying to hunt some down. The boards themselves are in fairly good condition otherwise.

    #9 8 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    While the EZSBC component is a really neat item, it doesn't look like it works as a replacement for System 1 or System 80 power supplies. What would you do with the regulators for those? Would the regulators be fatigued after 30 years and is just one of those parts that is a good idea to replace, or is that just a silly thing to do when it seems to test good?

    EZSBC is a newer option, up until recently choices were an aftermarket board with its own custom switching regulator circuit or replace with another linear regulator. So it's nice more options are becoming available. Personally I haven't swapped EZSBC in anywhere.. I bought a few that could be used in Bally SDBs, but haven't swapped one in yet. Glad to see other people have & they are having good results!

    I've never replaced linear voltage regulators unless they were bad on Gottliebs. Usually have some spare boards around I can swap parts around with. The thing you'd have to watch out for nowadays is some of those regulators are getting hard to track down original good parts for.. and there's tons of that stuff available from HK/China sellers on eBay and elsewhere, but you have no idea if they're even up to spec or working parts. Could be doing yourself a great disservice replacing with unknown imported parts. So in terms of replacing a linear regulator with another linear regulator.. if it's working, I'd leave the original in there and just replace the recommended resistors/diodes/headers/etc that commonly fatigue while you're looking it over or fixing other issues (missing voltages, wrong voltages, etc). If EZSBC or someone else comes out with a full-blown replacement for the regulator though.. then it starts making sense to put a switching regulator in when the board's out for a rebuild. Of course yet another option if you don't care if all the boards are "original" is to buy one of the aftermarket switching power supplies & then sell the original to offset the costs some.

    Just my 2 cents

    #10 8 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I actually have a few driver boards that were scavenged for parts at some point and are missing the heatsinks

    That's a really good use of the EZSBC I never thought of.

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