(Topic ID: 251303)

Thoughts on Clear Coating a Backglass


By 850mph

36 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 35 days ago by wolverinetuner
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 36 days ago

    What is the current day opinion on Clear Coating a silk screened backglass?

    Good idea with modern clear coat products-- or not?

    I know it was popular 20 years ago.
    But there was some question as to the longevity of the clear coat products.

    How have these backglasses stood up to the test of time?

    Which products and what procedure would you recommend?

    Thnx--850mph

    #2 36 days ago

    What game? Older EM’s sometimes benefit from some triple thick on the back to keep from flaking

    #3 36 days ago

    I just patch spot with mylar on flaking areas.

    Soured on triple thick a long time ago. Messy and noxious and difficult to apply to bad areas without losing all the ink. Not to mention I've seen humidity do weird thing to Triple Thicked backglasses.

    #4 36 days ago

    Well... er, um...
    Thats the question.

    Is there really any reason to clear coat if machines are in a nice temperature controlled environment?
    Im not talking about storing in a barn-- but 15 of my 16 machines have silkscreened backglasses.

    My basement game room can fluctuate from 30-65 degrees F during the year depending if Im heating it or not.

    Way back in the 90s when I bought the machines (they have been in climate controlled storage for almost 20 years) clear coating EM backglasses was just coming into vogue.

    Im just wondering if there has been any residual problems (yellowing, disintegration, etc) from the older (and I assume still marketed) clear coat products...???

    Thnx--850mph

    #5 36 days ago

    Levi--

    Miss you on 29th Street!

    wink!!!

    850mph

    #6 36 days ago
    Quoted from Wickerman2:

    What game? Older EM’s sometimes benefit from some triple thick on the back to keep from flaking

    All my EM's get a coat of Triple Thick either to preserve or part of the process of doing touch up to glass that is starting to flake apart.

    First solid state I have done was a Ball Star Trek which had a bad reaction to the triple thick that caused it to wrinkle like crazy where the sealer had been sprayed. Lucky the damage was confined to those sections that I was trying to lock in that had already peeled and cracked and I was trying to save them. If I had done the whole glass I would have been left with a ruin.

    #7 36 days ago
    Quoted from 850mph:

    Levi--
    Miss you on 29th Street!
    wink!!!
    850mph

    Yeah if you noticed the old building is now a condo construction site. They made us an offer we couldn't refuse!

    Quoted from 850mph:

    Well... er, um...
    Thats the question.
    Is there really any reason to clear coat if machines are in a nice temperature controlled environment?
    h

    Personally, I do not believe so. I only mylar spot patch on flaking areas. Beyond that, I'm doing LEDs behind the backglasses on EMs these days also to reduce heat.

    #8 35 days ago

    Im avoiding it. Too many mixed results to risk my glass going to shit because Im scared.

    #9 35 days ago

    I've had good success, but I only use it on backglasses that need repairs (flaking or delaminating). If a backglass is fully intact, I won't touch it.

    #10 35 days ago

    Just don’t use this stuff. I ruined a perfect Shangri La backglass trying to “preserve” it. Didn’t even need done. It was fine but I saw so many posts about clearing old backglass I thought that’s what I HAD TO DO. Almost threw up after it dried and pulled the art. Now all the art is spider webbed and flaking.

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    #11 35 days ago

    I've used Triple Thick now for 18-19 years. Zero issues. I still have a couple of glasses I sprayed from that long ago, they haven't changed since they were coated.

    #12 35 days ago

    If they are nice leave them alone, if flaking triple thick with cardboard on the score windows held down with a weight like a scrap coil.

    Carefully! Remove cardboard while spray is still wet.

    #13 35 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    Just don’t use this stuff. I ruined a perfect Shangri La backglass trying to “preserve” it. Didn’t even need done. It was fine but I saw so many posts about clearing old backglass I thought that’s what I HAD TO DO. Almost threw up after it dried and pulled the art. Now all the art is spider webbed and flaking. [quoted image]

    Dang, I wish you had posted this sooner. I just sprayed this exact product on my haunted house backglass. It was damaged in a few small spots, but nothing too terrible. I just wanted to prevent any further damage. Once mine dries I’ll report back on if I had the same problems as you did.

    #14 35 days ago
    Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

    Dang, I wish you had posted this sooner. I just sprayed this exact product on my haunted house backglass. It was damaged in a few small spots, but nothing too terrible. I just wanted to prevent any further damage. Once mine dries I’ll report back on if I had the same problems as you did.

    Ahhhh Sorry man, I posted something in my 2X thread a while back but I think not many people saw it.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-major-recurring-problem-with-rustoleum-2x/page/2#post-5129729

    #15 35 days ago
    Quoted from mrm_4:

    Ahhhh Sorry man, I posted something in my 2X thread a while back but I think not many people saw it.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-major-recurring-problem-with-rustoleum-2x/page/2#post-5129729

    Oh no need to apologize. I had actually searched on pinside for threads about clearcoating backglasses yesterday before spraying, but I didn't find yours at that time.
    When did you start to notice it cracking like that? Mine has been drying for the last 17 hours or so, and it still looks quite smooth, with no new defects or cracking (yet at least). I read that I should leave it for 48 hours though, so it still has a ways to go. My spraying technique was a bit different than yours, so we shall see if that makes a difference. If I read correctly, you did a few thin layers a few minutes apart. I did a light spray first, waited 30 minutes, then a heavier spray, waited 30 minutes, and then another heavier spray. I had a few areas where the art was curling up, so I wanted to put a heavy enough clearcoat on to hopefully press it back down. I'm also using seran wrap and small wood blocks to flatten to raised spots. I'm most nervous about how well the seran wrap will pull off when the clearcoat has dried.
    I'm currently running a dehumidifier in the same room as the backglass, to maybe help the drying process a bit.
    I'll keep you posted on if mine cracks like yours. Sorry to hear/see that happen to you.

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    #16 35 days ago

    I have been Triple-Thicking my back glasses for the past 20 years. It is just perfect and does not budge.

    You have to apply a very light coat first , let it dry ...... and go with heavier coat later on.

    I have had these backglasses outside in a shed, in North Carolina where temperature varies from 105 down to low 30's, with no issues. That was for about two years. It is always better to keep them in controlled temperature and humidity.

    Yves

    #18 35 days ago

    I have all EMs and haven’t had any problems using Triple Thick. I’m now touching up one I just sealed. But, like forceflow , I only seal when there’s already been flaking.

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