(Topic ID: 326543)

SOLVED: Those darn kids killed my Meteor, can't get any power...

By DakotaMike

1 year ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by TheLaw
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  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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#1 1 year ago

SOLVED: Blown F6 fuse that was also slightly under-sized. Was 2.5A instead of 3A.

Okay, so I've got a Meteor that I can't get working. A couple of kids were slamming the flippers non-stop on Meteor, and it died mid-game. You know the ones, the kids that just bop bop bop non-stop the entire time the ball is in play. The problem is that so far I haven't been able to figure out what they blew when they killed it.

So here's what I've got:

-Switching the game on does nothing. No LEDs or beeps or GI.

-I verified with a meter that the power switch is working

-Service Outlet still has power and works

-All fuses tested good with a meter on board. I did not pull any fuses and re-check yet.

-I get no power at any of the test points on the rectifier board.

-Rectifier board has new headers and J-connectors

Frankly I'm stumped. Based on how it died, I would have thought that I lost a high-voltage fuse, or a part of the SDB (like the relay). But the fuses are checking fine, and if it was the SBD, I'd still get some power in other parts of the game.

Could the machine-gunning of the flippers have blown something on the rectifier board, or is my line fuse bad but testing good on board?

I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.

#2 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

-All fuses tested good with a meter on board. I did not pull any fuses and re-check yet.

You have to take them off the board to properly test them.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You have to take them off the board to properly test them.

This!!

#4 1 year ago

If you have power at the service outlet but no power at the rectifier board at all, it's likely going to be the main cabinet AC fuse (Fuse F6, 3A slo). The line filter, VR, service outlet all are before that fuse. If it's not that fuse, then I would ensure you're getting 120vAC at the transformer, then unplug J1 and J3 from the rectifier board and redo your testing of the test points.

#5 1 year ago

Damn chimp flippers

#6 1 year ago
76B7B7EA-9108-45DD-B203-CC116DDD0DB5.gif76B7B7EA-9108-45DD-B203-CC116DDD0DB5.gif
#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You have to take them off the board to properly test them.

Agreed. I had a fuse on Seawitch that was blown but tested fine. I was chasing the issue till I pulled the fuses and tested them. Pissed me right off!!

Also definitely check the VR, they are sensitive and can pop at the weirdest things!

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You have to take them off the board to properly test them.

I will next time I'm back at the location. I know that you need to pull them to be 100 percent sure, but never fully understood why. Since the fuse tested good, and didn't visually look blown to me, I wanted to save stress on the fuse holders.

Quoted from Knxwledge:

If you have power at the service outlet but no power at the rectifier board at all, it's likely going to be the main cabinet AC fuse (Fuse F6, 3A slo). The line filter, VR, service outlet all are before that fuse. If it's not that fuse, then I would ensure you're getting 120vAC at the transformer, then unplug J1 and J3 from the rectifier board and redo your testing of the test points.

Appreciate the advice. I'll be following those steps when I go back.

Quoted from TheLaw:

Damn chimp flippers

Quoted from Vino:

[quoted image]

Yeah, our location has cameras and when I went back and reviewed the footage I wanted to cry. We have plenty of new Sterns and JJPs that would probably have been okay with that abuse. But they picked our oldest game to do that to. Probably because it was the cheapest game at 50 cents-a-play.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

I know that you need to pull them to be 100 percent sure, but never fully understood why. Since the fuse tested good, and didn't visually look blown to me

Because it's measuring the resistance from one end of the fuse to the other. When it's in the circuit and the fuse is blown (open) it's measuring the resistance of the circuit now. Depending on the circuit, there could be little to no resistance making it seem like the fuse is good.

If you have a fuse that's blown due to an overcurrent condition you have a 70% chance of visually seeing that the fuse is blown. Sometimes you can't really see a visual indication of a blown fuse. Other times fuses just go bad from vibration and they look good. I'm guessing this might be your situation.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

I will next time I'm back at the location. I know that you need to pull them to be 100 percent sure, but never fully understood why. Since the fuse tested good, and didn't visually look blown to me, I wanted to save stress on the fuse holders.

Appreciate the advice. I'll be following those steps when I go back.

Yeah, our location has cameras and when I went back and reviewed the footage I wanted to cry. We have plenty of new Sterns and JJPs that would probably have been okay with that abuse. But they picked our oldest game to do that to. Probably because it was the cheapest game at 50 cents-a-play.

The kids are not the issue here. Pressing flipper buttons is a core function that you literally can do all day long if everything is working. It is likely the 40 year old components, connectors and header pins on the power board and/or end-of-stroke switches on the flippers. Blown fuses are a symptom of other issues.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Superchicken:

There is a flipper fuse on the playfield here:

That's not a flipper fuse. That protects all solenoids on the playfield except for the flippers.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Superchicken:

The kids are not the issue here. Pressing flipper buttons is a core function that you literally can do all day long if everything is working.

+1

I never give anyone a hard time for beating on my flippers. Mine are all rebuilt and they can handle it. Telling someone not to is like telling someone not to shoot the ramps in fear they might crack the plastic ramp on their next shot.

#13 1 year ago

Is this the meteor at the Pinball Room in Sioux Falls? I was there 2-3 weeks ago and it was down at that time too. I go there every time I'm in Sioux Falls, really good lineup of games. I miss the space invaders that used to be there.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from schudel5:

That's not a flipper fuse. That protects all solenoids on the playfield except for the flippers.

Correct. Flippers are fused at the beginning of the 43 volt power chain at the rectifier board. If the fuse at the playfield is popped you will have no slings, pops, drop reset but the flippers will still work. If the fuse is popped at rectifier, flippers and other coils will be dead.

Always check fuses in hand with ohm meter and in doubt swap out. Also easy to follow power with meter to see where it breaks off.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

Is this the meteor at the Pinball Room in Sioux Falls? I was there 2-3 weeks ago and it was down at that time too. I go there every time I'm in Sioux Falls, really good lineup of games. I miss the space invaders that used to be there.

Yep. It was down for a bad EOS switch that was keeping the upper-flipper from working. Took care of that, and it's been fine since until Saturday morning.

Quoted from Superchicken:

The kids are not the issue here. Pressing flipper buttons is a core function that you literally can do all day long if everything is working. It is likely the 40 year old components, connectors and header pins on the power board and/or end-of-stroke switches on the flippers. Blown fuses are a symptom of other issues. There is a flipper fuse on the playfield here: [quoted image]

I appreciate the comment; I know I always try to figure out why a fuse blew, because as you said a fuse blowing is a symptom not a problem. In this particular case, a blown fuse would be a symptom of a couple of kids slamming the flippers over and over non-stop. This wasn't normal play, or even over-excited play, this was one kid on the left of the machine, and one kid on the right, each of them using both hands to press the flipper buttons as fast as possible, even before a ball was plunged. It looked like they were playing Mario-Party! I don't know many early-SS machines that would be happy with that kind of behavior for any length of time.

That being said, I do agree that an older fuse and aging components would contribute to a fuse blowing earlier. But the fuses blow to protect the game, so a fuse blowing is technically a good thing.

I'll provide an update next time I get back to the location, as at this point I still don't know exactly why I don't have power. Could be the line fuse, but maybe not. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks.

#16 1 year ago

At the factory we tested games by double flipping continuously to make sure the game did not crash. If the EOS is adjusted right on all flippers and the line voltage is within tolerance then the game should not die. In your case it sounds like the line fuse may have blown which would explain why all the test points show no voltage.
Once you get the game back up go over the EOSs and make sure they are properly adjusted to open at about 80% of flipper stroke and the lower double flipper EOSs are set Break-Make.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

That being said, I do agree that an older fuse and aging components would contribute to a fuse blowing earlier. But the fuses blow to protect the game, so a fuse blowing is technically a good thing.

Early Sterns have issues with the power. Pull the connectors off and flip them over. If you see burnt or melted connectors that is the pins turning into resistors. Whenever I get a new old Stern game, first thing I do is rebuild the power and replace the connectors in the cabinet. I have found that you have to spend the money and get the correct crimper.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from schudel5:

That's not a flipper fuse. That protects all solenoids on the playfield except for the flippers.

Thanks. I've never had to replace one, just assumed it was for flippers.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Superchicken:

The kids are not the issue here.

Thank you. If you don't want kids playing your games, you're doing it wrong. When I operated games, I regularly asked kids to 'test' games for me with free credits after cleaning. Loved that.

Also, technically, Meteor is 43 years old. If the rectifier board is factory, it should be replaced on age alone. Great platform, but rectifier board is weakest link.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

If you have power at the service outlet but no power at the rectifier board at all, it's likely going to be the main cabinet AC fuse (Fuse F6, 3A slo). The line filter, VR, service outlet all are before that fuse. If it's not that fuse, then I would ensure you're getting 120vAC at the transformer, then unplug J1 and J3 from the rectifier board and redo your testing of the test points.

So you were correct, Fuse F6 was indeed blown. It tested fine on-board, but once I pulled and re-tested, it showed open. Also, once I pulled it, I could see a small bubble of melted metal in the very middle of the fuse that wasn't visible when it was on the rectifier board. But get this, the plot thickens, because the installed fuse was under-rated. Fuse F6 was only a 2.5A, when it is supposed to be a 3A. So that is likely part of the reason the fuse failed when it did.

Game now has power and works aside from the left flipper. Sadly, the left-flipper coil seems to have gotten overly hot and the sleeve inside is slightly melted. Plunger won't clear the coil, and sleeve won't come out, even with a hammer and chisel. So new coil time it is. But at least otherwise the game is good.

#21 1 year ago

tsk tsk when ya gonna learn how to test fuses?!

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

tsk tsk when ya gonna learn how to test fuses?!

Haha, yes, it is newb-ish behavior to not pull a fuse. But I'm sure I'm not the only experienced pinhead who's tested a fuse in the holder before. It's easy to get complacent because a lot of times it will work fine to test on the board, but there's a reason we stick to the fundamentals. A case like my Meteor being a great example of why you need to pull the fuse.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Ha But I'm sure I'm not the only experienced pinhead who's tested a fuse in the holder before....

You'd never hear the end of it where I'm from just pop up one side brother!

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