This is what it looks like on mine
Looks like you neeed to bend that over maybe so you can get that screw in?

IMG_20220318_132308 (resized).jpg

When you use the whistling birds in a mission to spot you the shots, does it also give you the points for those shots or does it just advance the mode.

I usually hit it when I'm about to drain but if i don't get the points for the shots it spots, I will have to alter my strategy.

The whistling birds animation replaces the end of mode animation where it would show the point total, so I can't really tell if i got extra points, or not.

Brand new Mando Premium owner here.
Stupid question: What issue fixes this kit? Anything I should look out for?

Thank you for the explanation. I'll keep an eye out to see if I have the same problem. So far I didn't notice it, but since I'm not a good player, the machine keeps me busy otherwise and I just may have missed it.

Anyone using Titan rubbers on there and if so, do you like it? On my previous machine it came with Superbands and they made it play a lot easier because the ball would just drop dead on the flippers, but I want to get better so I'm looking for an alternative that plays truer to regular rubber without all the dirt. Friend of mine suggested going all transparent. Any opinions on that?

From the right, I get rejects every now and then unless I grace the posts- those get always rejected. I still can make it with the backhand from the left, though that needs to be pretty accurate to go all the way up.

I added armor, art blades, shaker and shooter rod and like it so far.

That support bracket for the orbit is brilliant. I have that problem that it hammers it back after a few games regardless how much I crank down there. Am trying a dab of gorilla super glue right now to affix the screw to the tab. If that breaks lose I'm gonna print one like that. PETG hopefully should not disintegrate, PLA is too brittle I would presume.

Was just fighting with exactly the same issue. Friend of mine gave me the following advise:
Use a dab of gorilla glue to fuse the screw to the tab.

I bought the gorilla super glue gel because it has a very fine applicator. I bent the guide a little so it's natural resting position without the screw is pretty much where I want it to be. That's important, because the glue sets pretty quick so you don't have a lot of time to fiddle, and additionally you don't want extra strain while it is curing. To bend it, I used two pliers - one to hold the guide in place and one to actually bend it right next to the first one - and bent it right below the next tab up, a few inches up the guide that's screwed down.

I put the screw in a magnetic nut driver and put just a couple of small dabs of the glue on the underside of the screw head and screwed it down. Magnetic setter is nice, because you won't drop the screw with the glue anywhere and make a mess.

Let it cure for 24 hours.

I tried it and it held up through a handful games so far but I have no idea how long it will hold yet.
E6000 glue is the next step up, but it's application is a nightmare, because once you start it, it just keeps squirting out of the tube and you'll likely glue the screw to your nut setter.

I used very little glue, cause I didn't want to glue the tab to the clear coat.

I may print a standoff bracket like in that kit mentioned above if all else fails.

Mine is at 7.1* because I reused my legs from my AIQ that I traded for at a show which was set to 6.8 and it came out to be 7.1* on this machine.
Plays fairly brutal this way. I can just about make the left backhand ramp shot. At the show where I got it from it was set up significantly lower and played more benign. I may lower it but currently I'm still willing to fight it.

It seems only one out of five times I get actually one of the rollovers. Most of the time its middle or back to the right orbit, and 1 out of 5 it's SDTM. I was hoping they are going to fix the algorithm pulsing the magnet that at least more than half the times you have a chance to get anything else than the last item on the list.

Make sure all plugs are seated on the boards if you haven't done that yet. They have a tendency to rattle loose during transport. Unlikely that that is the issue, but might as well look if you have the playfield up.

I see on your pictures too that you have damage on the wireform above the weld spots. On my AIQ it was so bad that the ball would drop off if it was fast enough because it jumped there. The replacement was smooth. On my Mando I have that too but the it's not to a point where the ball falls off at least not at the pitch I have. I wonder if they switched the manufacturer for the wireforms, or due to supply chain issues they simply don't sort the damaged ones out anymore.

Curious myself, wondering if you have to play around midnight.

Mine is at 7.1* and I have the same experience as you: It's just brutal. I bought it off a show and it was at 6.5 there and it played a lot more forgiving. I'm almost there to bring it down to 6.5* as well. The reason why I haven't yet is, that usually at location they are that steep and I wanted to get better at it, but I'm at a point where I'm just frustrating myself.

I have occasionally that issue as well, I thought it originated from some of multi balls that allow you to get in there. I had it on some occasions that it was so vertical the flippers could barely reach the switches anymore after I drained out of the MB.

Anyone trying to update 1.30 to 1.31 via the built in OTA code updater?
It finds there is a new version, but the speed is so slow it seems to just give up after a few minutes at 0% and 1000+ hour estimate.
This worked before with the update to 1.30, and i have free bandwidth galore. My AP says it's connection is decent to the machine.
Is just Stern's servers overloaded? I tried last night and today.

Supposedly it is like the bounty puck with a "hologram" coming out of it - 1k price tag or something. Just rumor though.

I finally gave up and just connected an ethernet cable to it - still took several hours on a 1GB line but at least it finished. I can't imagine that this is feasible if you have a dozen machines on location.

Try coop mode, my skill level is not anywhere near where it needs to be to ever beat that machine. Every now and then I just start a coop mode game and essentially double / triple / quadruple the amount of balls to see the different wizard modes.

I think that is a design flaw - the left ramp will break after a while on any machine.
I assume it is cost prohibitive for Stern to make new protectors and throw the protectors that they have already in stock / on order away especially considering the cost for development and testing cycle of a new part.
Rather unfortunate, but they did send a replacement ramp fairly quick.

No that is not normal. It sounds like one of the switches is registering over and over. If it is points and beskar i would guess it's one of the pop bumpers.
Go into the service menu switch test and see if there are any switches closing that shouldn't be, nudge the machine a little bit. That should help you track it down. That's the first step, figuring out which of the switches it is or even more than one.
Once you've figured that out we'll help you fixing it. There are tutorials how to go about adjusting switch gaps. It's very easy once you know how. Keep us posted and if the finding steps are too general i can make some pics.

Super glue maybe?