(Topic ID: 295170)

I like those odds - The Mandalorian Owners Club

By flynnibus

2 years ago


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  • 7,782 posts
  • 634 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by math08
  • Topic is favorited by 304 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

33 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #75 Custom apron card option (paid) for Mando Posted by Mr_Tantrum (2 years ago)

Post #170 Steps to access ball guide under right ramp Posted by Lermods (2 years ago)

Post #189 Adding washer under ball guide in U turn to prevent digging into PF Posted by flynnibus (2 years ago)

Post #260 Rulesheet published by Stern Posted by chuckwurt (2 years ago)

Post #325 zip tie hack for the broken ramp diverter Posted by bernieberg (2 years ago)

Post #463 Signs of premiums starting to ship and surprise Randy signature Posted by scootss (2 years ago)

Post #535 Photos of how the left ramp can crack past stock protectors Posted by Clytor (2 years ago)

Post #593 Rubber pad option to help bounce backs on scoop and diverter Posted by NightTrain (2 years ago)

Post #767 Dwight Explains the Top Post intended behavior Posted by Xaqery (2 years ago)

Post #965 Playfield Code Name for Mando - Jennie Posted by KnockerPTSD (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#393 2 years ago

Pics of the crap powder coating job... some build-up and pooling of material on the lockdown bar as well, made the radius too large for the round over on the cabinet and started to damage the cabinet - very noticable when looking at the machine.

Stern has not responded all week and my distro says open the ticket first with stern then they will be able to take care of things.

IMG_20210707_182305.jpgIMG_20210707_182305.jpgIMG_20210707_182310.jpgIMG_20210707_182310.jpg

#395 2 years ago
Quoted from Deadpool66:

To install cara dune graphic did you have to take off the shooter lane plate?

Nope

#399 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Mine looks the same. Take a small piece of sand paper and get ride of that rust if it bothers you. Problem solved.

I'm worried about failure of adhesion for the rest of my armor... unremoved oxidization is highly susceptible to adhesion failure in powder coating, thus the comment on the crap job - I can see the oxidation extends beyond what is visible under the coat.

#402 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

what cabinet issue are you referring to? doesn't sound quite right... the cabinet corners are mitred down at the front edges.

The miters left and right on the front of the cab are either too proud or there is too much material/inside radius of the lockdown bar is too narrow. When the lockdown bar is latched, it crushes the joint and came from the factory with splitting wood (minimally so, but it definitely is an issue). I'll post pics later.

#408 2 years ago

So here are three lockdown bars. Star Wars Pro in the back, Mando LE in the middle, and Rick and Morty up front.

Is there a reason why the powder coating is not on the entirety of the piece on Mando as opposed to Star Wars or R&M (and all my other machines)?

Also, you can clearly see how vastly different the finishing pass for the miter is from the Star Wars Pro to Mando. All my other Stern machines have perfect fitment, this one seems really off.

Anyone have any thoughts? I don't think this is normal (yes others have the same extent of powder coat on their LE lockdown bars but not oxidation) and am wondering how best to approach this. The miters on the cabinet are not finished the same as any other stern I own, it is comparable to using a bit setup for 1/2" material instead of 3/4".

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#413 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Can only say the application of crinkle paint is not the same as powder coating and the corner miter looks the exact same. Looks like a non issue to me personally.

Crinkle paint is not used on Rick and Morty, that is powder coat.

Rust under powder coating is a disaster waiting to happen, that is certainly an issue.

I've increased the exposure on the star wars cabinet, that is not the same as Mando.

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#417 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

What makes you think there is rust under the powder coating? To me it appears there is rust on the bare metal and happened after powder coating. Grab a little sand paper and clean her up.
As far as the corner of the cabinet goes, grab a sharpie and move on. Life is too short. Enjoy the game!

A sharpie won't fix the fact the lockdown bar does not fit - what if there is a void in the plywood where the locking miter edge is? Keep crushing the top of that joint whenever I need the glass off (which if you saw the other thread, is pretty often with stuck balls) and I could loose a section off the front of the cabinet.

The corners of the cabinet are both this way, they need sanded to the proper angle to accommodate the lockdown bar and prevent further damage. This should have been done when those miters were created and fitment at the factory saw how off this is.

Some of the powder coating flaked off right where it appeared the oxidation was tracking under the coating, revealing even more oxidation. The extent of oxidation is unknown, which is why I am concerned.

Over nine grand for a pinball machine. This is the only expensive luxury we have where it seems I'm supposed to just "move on."

It's not like I'm complaining about adjusting roll over switches, moving opto sensors to actually be in-line with the hole so they could see the sending unit, unscrewing lane guides because they were torqued into the clear (and to place washers), having to tighten posts that were holding on by a thread, tightening all the flippers because with each flip the flipper shaft rotated from the ideal position.

We are doing what our distributor said, wait to hear back from Stern before doing anything to remediate these issues.

rust on my NIB limited edition with flaking powder coat is not acceptable and neither is screwing up the finish on those mitered edges - that lockdown bar barely fits and is crushing the corners of the cabinet.

Apologists can feel free to downvote this ad infinitum. I know the story, "this is pinball" and "you are ruining this hobby."

#419 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

30 seconds of dremel and some black paint… and this goes away

can't touch anything until I hear back from stern. though it is concerning the powder coat continues to flake at all the spots with rust, revealing more rust underneath.

#429 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Installed both LE’s today and both had the same miter and a few brown spots on the non coated clamp like yours. Oddly when I installed it both games played perfectly so I’m good.

You might be cool with what I received but I am not. What kind of help is that to say "oddly" with respect to the games playing perfectly? This isn't about how our game is playing. I'm concerned with cosmetics and potential future issues with my powder coat because it is flaking off. Is your powder coat coming off?

I have purchased your products before and the fit/finish has been great. Based on your response (mocking of our troubles), should customers of your Mod Couple products expect similar standards/response if a product you ship out has cosmetic or manufacturing defects?

Try to minimize our trouble and Stern's oversight all you want - these aren't brown spots, they are oxidation and one of the biggest issues with adhesion of powder coated metal. I know Stern will make it right by swapping out lockdown bars but I am still going to vent here. I expect more for the price of these machines. Thankfully this isn't a huge issue like a playfield with delaminating ink.

As far as the joinery and finish, the angle is too proud and does not accommodate the lockdown bar on either side without damaging the cabinet. The geometry is significantly different from every other modern Stern we own. Again, if you are okay with the cabinet being damaged and your lockdown bar not fitting properly from the factory, on a game this expensive, that is on you. We should all expect more with respect to fit, finish, and quality control for the price we pay.

#435 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Can you share how that is done? Change tracks. I recall this in BKSOR though I don’t remember how to do it.

There is a setting intended for streaming on YouTube or the like that changes from copyright music to generic (but thematically appropriate) music. It is buried in the settings somewhere, I think it is where you can enable/disable the DJ mixer feature found on freeplay machines.

#439 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Is there a way to adjust the audio in the game at all? Any amp settings anywhere? Bass, trebble, mids?

Yup - settings then utilities then volume. Lots of great settings, shelf versus 10 band equalizer and a host of other stuff.

The default from factory is to have treble playing through the cabinet speaker, first thing I do on sterns is turn off the highs to the cabinet speaker - 250hz and lower for that free air mamma jamma.

We like our home arcade loud and our factory amp was clipping at volume of 40 - turned down the sub's gain to 4.125db or something like that (from 6ish) and it hasn't happened again.

#486 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

I’m also having issues with rejects on the right orbit with child kit. I have an LE though. So the ball hits the up post and dribbles back down the right orbit, instead of being diverted to the child magnet. Doesn’t happen every time, but a good clean shot will make it happen. Super annoying. Especially since that shot it pretty tight. Getting punished for a good shot drives me nuts.
They did make a different post for Metallica. I think it was metal. Seems counter intuitive, but that actually dampened the force better. I think it was a thinner post in Metallica than it is in Mando though. I’d have to check. I believe I actually may have a spare metal one lying around. Now I know what I need to do tomorrow.
Anyone else running into this? Any other ideas and fixes for it?

I responded in the other thread too. Don't think this is the post all the time. I get balls stuck there.

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#488 2 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Is Stern replacing the rusted our lockdown bars?
Or should I just remove the rust myself?

Make sure it is not actually flaking off where the rust is tracking under the powder coat - if it isn't, then I'd just sand it off and be done. But if it is flaking and peeling off like mine is, I'd reach out to stern and enjoy the wait to hear back.

#494 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

I don’t think this is the issue on mine. Mine, the ball it hitting the up post like it’s supposed to, then going back down the right orbit.

Maybe it still is the post on mine then too - nothing more frustrating then have those balls roll back at you after a perfect shot.

#504 2 years ago
Quoted from Waxx:

Does anyone have the issue where the menu buttons in the coin door need to be pressed as hard as possible to get them to work?

Yes.

#506 2 years ago

Going to update code now... I did some high speed recordings of the orbit and post behavior on 0.96 - hold the left flipper will appropriately keep the post down on plunge for super skill shot. Sometimes the plunge will cause the ball to roll back in the orbit due to the post.

Most issues with the post occur with shots to the right orbit. In the cases I recorded, child is not lit, hitting the orbit rollover causes the orbit post to raise and depending on how tight the ball is hugging the guide, it will bounce back down the right orbit. I am not sure why the post is going up on right orbit rollover without child being lit. (New game code references fix for child being lit when it shouldn't be)

Too bad pinside won't allow MP4 to be uploaded. Maybe I will convert tot gif if I have time later.

#519 2 years ago

Updated code fixed the right orbit issue. Smooth as butter now (when child is not lit). Still getting rejects just as frequently with child lit on the right orbit but that's okay - the flow on this game is so freaking smooth (don't read that as too easy) once you get in the groove.

First game after new code: Super skill shot, hit all shots and finish with a shot hits right orbit, left flipper to right orbit again, left flipper hits the razor crest to start a razor crest multiball and the last shot coming down the left orbit to feed the U-turn scoop then feeds the left flipper then shot hits the right ramp to feed the right flipper then shot hits the left ramp to mini playfield - all the while not a single launched ball made it to my flippers yet. It was that fast.

With how happy we are with gameplay, Stern is going to have a VERY tough time matching, let alone topping, this machine. It is THAT GOOD.

Well done.

#571 2 years ago

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0100M67A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C00BQCCQA4T7J2P4HMN0

A little square of this on the catch of the diverter causes the balls to stop dead. No more bounce backs, even with flipper power at factory default.

I used some 3M VHB squares I had on hand to make sure this stays put.

#601 2 years ago

Just made these flipper toppers. They are 3D printed using SLA and the beskar/Damascus steel effect looks great in-person.

Of course, they will be airbrushed and cleared when finished.

Played about 20 games with them attached and no issues came up.

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#666 2 years ago

For the post #.

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#677 2 years ago

Gotta let the clear coat dry before I install them.

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#698 2 years ago

Installed - looks pretty good imo. I've been working on other flipper topper designs as well (pulse rifle, blaster, extending the artwork from the lane guides, etc).

thinking about making a small run of these if anyone is interested.

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#707 2 years ago

Not sure if this has been mentioned... Mando's helmet on the LE back glass is pretty much the proper distance, height and proportion to be as if the player is wearing the helmet.

#754 2 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

My LE is like yours. Not sure what they changed yet but I dont like it.

My LE is the same as well.

#802 2 years ago

Test fitting pop bumper caps. I haven't used translucent resin before. Dimensions are perfect.
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I will probably just use the normal opaque white, transmits light well enough and would provide a good contrast, especially when airbrushed. Thoughts? Thicken the prints and stick with translucent?

#807 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Translucent light blue would be nice.
Paint insignia silver/beskar

Quoted from kidchrisso:

I agree on some sort of blue color.

Quoted from jrockne:

I like this idea with blue and beskar, but I would paint the cap and leave the insignia blue (or red). I think it would "pop" more that way... Sorry couldn't help myself

I'll see what I can do. Since red translucent and white/gray/black opague are what I have on hand... I'll do the signet in a beskar style and then glue it to the top of the red translucent top.

Also, check out the grav charger for the popper (my own design from scratch... they all tend to look the same).
IMG_20210731_144209__01.jpgIMG_20210731_144209__01.jpg

I also have a custom mushroom cloud/explosion as a popper topper - it is TOUGH to airbrush right where I would feel confident in selling them (it took me 2 hours today and I'm not happy, so you probably wouldn't be happy). That said, I'd be willing to make them for minimal cost so anyone could finish it on their own.

#855 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

If I were to take the metal off and bend it such that it makes solid contact with the ramp do you think I could spare myself this eventual break?

I had a piece of neoprene behind there to distribute the impact, it worked well but causes more rejects by also moving the protector from the front of the ramp as well.

Recently, I took the screw out all together. I will make a clip available for free to the community and at a cost if you don't have a 3D printer that should be able to be removed and replaced many, many times that will hug that part to the ramp plastic and remove the problem of the screw bearing the brunt of force and transmitting it to that small area of plastic.

I'll probably put it up in my store in pinside and thingiverse this weekend after I get a couple hundred plays on it.

I also have a spacer for the left orbit plastic as well that has solved those hangups. Will do the same with that one, thingiverse for free and a fee if you don't have a printer.

#861 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

If the protector won't sit flush, just elongate the hole in the tab so you can sit the protector flush against the ramp. People are making this way too complicated...

Yeah, the engineer in all of us lol

#960 2 years ago
Quoted from Dexter:

Has anyone made a mode to cover up this VUK? Would be nice to not have this so in your face when looking at the playfield.
[quoted image]

I made an ice cave that goes back there and effectively covers that - need more plays ( some airballs from the ramp and grogu flinging that ball to test impact resilience).

13
#1022 2 years ago

Coming soon to a center ramp near you...

IMG_20210811_194453__01.jpgIMG_20210811_194453__01.jpg
#1036 2 years ago
Quoted from djsoup:

Nice! A couple Ice spiders attached to some new popcap cover replacements would be sweet!

I could probably do the caps for that as well... that ice spider I put up there is going on that center ramp.

If it is a crappy day Saturday I'll likely spend most of it making things.

#1037 2 years ago
Quoted from TTARider:

Using Ninjas... thought about magnetics.. Think that could be it?

I use Polaris from ball Barron and they are perfect.

#1038 2 years ago

Attempting flat resin prints without any support is as much of an art as modeling itself. Pretty close, not quite there.

These will be added to our store on Pinside and for sale this weekend.

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3 weeks later
#1470 2 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

Damn would've been nice to have them on my Star Wars built 3/29/21.

You can add them.

#1540 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

I may have missed it but is anyone making a foundry mod?

I have one as well but not quite ready to ship. If you take a look at our mod thread you can read about it there.

IMG_20210826_212243__01.jpgIMG_20210826_212243__01.jpg
1 week later
#1715 2 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

Not to sound facetious... but how is the skill shot in any way relying on skill?
First on my machine it's sheer luck if the ball is diverted from the upper post into the CHILD area, or just rebounds off the post and down the right orbit. Second it then has to fall over one of the rapidly flashing CHILD lights. It's a poor implementation and skill has nothing to do with it.
Is there any chance the post can be fixed by a code update? Also what about the centre shot fouling on the left plastic? I can't believe some of these issues didn't get picked up in the first 5 minutes of play testing.
Also looking for an option to keep the upper post down during an auto-plunge, just to keep play going.

Hold the left flipper on plunge, goes around left orbit, then you have to hit the right turn/scoop, then the right ramp, then left orbit/left ramp/razorcrest to achieve the super skillshot.

Also, if you time the above just right for when C is lit, you collect that skill shot as well... so plenty of skill required.

#1725 2 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

What you describe with the combos is not the skill shot, that's the super skill shot and yes there is plenty of skill involved to do that.
Please read the manual, the skill shot is plunging any lit CHILD lane, not just the C. You can plunge the C while going for the super shot, but that's about the only letter you can realistically plunge, anything else is luck not skill.
I'm fine with the super shot, but the skill shot is poorly implemented. This game is sort of a take on CFTBL skill shots, however both of those work fine in terms of skill required and timing.

I identified that much when I posted "to achieve the super skillshot."

And it bears repeating again, if you hold the left flipper to keep the post down and time the plunge for the C, it is a skill shot. Skill is involved to time that plunge.

#1750 2 years ago
Quoted from OriginalFresh:

Ahh I see. Thanks for the clarity! Makes much more sense.

If you do run into trouble ever, I use Ball Barron Polaris for all games with magnets and never have any issues.

1 week later
#1850 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Raise it with a couple of spacers worked like a charm, rejects from the left are my trouble, then when your too clean you get bounce back off the diverter even with dead stop foam on it.

I angled the catch more towards the front of the machine with dead stop neoprene type material (I linked to it many, many pages ago) and I haven't had a single reject since on our LE.

#1896 2 years ago
Quoted from kempsuk:

Yep, so its hitting the back of this diverter and bouncing back round right?
[quoted image]

Yup, that seems to be the case with most LEs - ours is #169.

#2049 2 years ago
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#2061 2 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

I really like that. Can you squeeze an LED under the helmet?
J85M This is better looking than the foundry mod IMO

Yes, it was designed with that in mind. Though I know nothing about spike/spike 2 and how to appropriately integrate additional lighting. I wanted to run from the foundry insert to the scoop, helmet, and area behind the scoop to have it light up when the foundry is lit.

Quoted from J85M:

Nice but I think the Foundry mod is best suited at the foundry scoop. Could this be mounted anywhere else without looking out of place, love the look but already committed to putting the foundry there.

I think it fits well there because she's the Armorer. Where on the playfield did you have in mind? I can make a mount for anywhere.

1 week later
#2155 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Wonder what the topper could be doesn’t give much away the icon for it.
[quoted image]

Click it. The settings are the same as that for R2D2 - so the topper is probably IG-11, the nurse droid variant of course.

1 month later
#2675 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

These are great to print yourself. Painting is just fun. The speeder bike is also free on thingiverse and there are some real good ones for a few bucks. If you are into 3d printing this is great to do yourself.
The only thing that is in my eyes a problem is that the speeder bike is clearly this version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4625615
It is clearly stated when using this file from thingiverse not to sell. - You are not allowed to copy or distribute them in any way. You are not allowed to sell them or parts you printed from them or models you build with the use of this files.
I understand printing this model and painting this is a lot of work, for which a fee is in place, but please state the source of your model and keep with the terms of the designer. Tip the designer or agree with him/her.
Sorry to bring this up but I see a lot of designs abused by others who make a lot of cash, which is not the way.

Important to point out. Just to be clear with my mods, if I did not do the design personally from start to finish or if it was a derivative, it was licensed/contracted with one of the artists that I have a personal working relationship with.

As the modder in question has noted, if he doesn't actually design the part himself, he pays a license/royalty. Unless his contract or CC license requires him to attribute, he is free to leave that information out of any post about the item or for sale listing.

Odds are, if you saw the speeder bike on thingiverse, the original designer decided to post it there for free under a non-commercial CC editorial license... or someone else managed to bamboozle them for an stl/3mf and reposted it without permission.

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