(Topic ID: 295170)
Linked Games
The Mandalorian (LE)
Stern, 2021-
The Mandalorian (Premium)
Stern, 2021
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The Mandalorian (Pro)
Stern, 2021
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Quoted from PinBackpacker:Lermods will you guys be at Allentown with some of these kits?
We will be at Allentown, but to be honest we won't have much inventory on hand and will just be taking orders as we've been pretty swamped. If you know you want something, let me know and I'll make sure we have it on hand for you.
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:Chipping spotted on my routed game that's been on location less than 2 weeks.
[quoted image]
Thank you for posting that. I just went and checked my game and I could see it would start to do the same thing. Seems stern still has not learned that they are tightening the ball rails down too much and allowing them to dig into the playfields. Washers should be under every single ball rail guide. I did check the rest of the game and the ball rail is raised everywhere except for this spot, which is on the left side of the hairpin turn. To prevent further damage, I loosened the nut underneath a few turns and used a punch to raise the guide. Luckily no paint chipped off. First pic shows it starting to dig in, second pic shows it raised with no damage.
PXL_20210625_172403786 (resized).jpgPXL_20210625_172727649 (resized).jpghere's an example...
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-66175-16-Inch-Alignment-Punch/dp/B00QV2I242/ref=sr_1_9
Quoted from flynnibus:Are they light pipes like the tron kits?
I think the Tron lights are El wire, but am not really sure what they used. these are led tube lights.
Quoted from flynnibus:Solid tip! I certainly wasn't looking forward to disassembly just for this.
You dont have even need a washer, just loosen the nut underneath holding it on, tap the screw up and the guide will rise. Don't retighten the nut. It won't fall back down again.
Quoted from cooked71:Or will they start using washers - my guess is they will once the complaints start coming in. Mind you, the ball guides chipping is not a new problem.
Been happening since at least Deadpool. Doesn't seem they care if they haven't fixed it by now. Maybe a bit harsh, but there is no excuse for this.
Quoted from Groo:Does anybody else have a cracked left ramp on the left hand side? The ram at the 2nd screw from the front of mine is broken, but the ramp seems to be firmly in place. The right side screw came out on mine this weekend, but ramp still seems pretty solid. Was a pain trying to get it screwed back in with the Razor crest in the way so will probably take that off to get is screwed back down tight.
I did notice a bit of a chip by the rail mentioned before so I loosened it so it's not touching the playfield anymore. I put a little piece of mylar over it and not too worried. Can't see it with the plastic ramps in the way anyway!
can you show a pic of where it cracked and I can check my game?
Quoted from Deadpool66:Be sure to raise the other end to I noticed it was starting to cut into the clear.
I just checked the other side of the ball guide and while it wasn't digging in, it was touching the playfield and I could not slip a piece of paper under it. I decided that was enough and removed the guide and put a washer under each side of it. It's really easy to remove that ball guide.
1. Remove the two screws on the top of the ramp that connect to the two hex posts. This will free the ramp.
2. Remove the two hex posts (and washers underneath the hex posts) and this will then free the plastic so you can access the ball guide.
3. Lift the playfield and remove the two nuts and washers holding the ball guide in place.
4. Gently tap the screws to loosen them so it will be easier to pull the ball guide out.
5. Lower the playfield and pull the ball guide out.
6. Add two small washers and reinstall.
took me less than 10 minutes.
Quoted from flynnibus:Just completed this on our game… thank you for taking the time to write it out so i knew i had time to get it done today!
Super easy and highly recommend all owners do this. I used simple M5 washers i had in my toolbox. They are nice and wide throat so they sit under the tapered bolt well.
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This is what the pf looked like.
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And what it looks like after…
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Glad it was helpful. I have no idea how stern is letting games go out the door like this, but after the ant man scoop, it’s really disappointing. The clear coat is good, no pooling, but any time you drive a metal wedge into a clear coat finish it’s going to cause issues. the fix is so simple.
Quoted from Deadpool66:As far as the chipping caused by the guide lane is it worth contacting Stern?
Absolutely, you should contact stern. If for nothing else, they catch it at the factory and other games going out don’t suffer the same problem.
I will file my own ticket so they are aware.
Quoted from Vino:You may try reimaging a brand new SD card.
Had similar issue twice on EHOH as Sterns were crap.
Directions on Sterns site.
https://sternpinball.com/support/sd-cards/
Yeah, was going to suggest checking the sd card. Maybe pop it out and pop it back in and try rebooting again.
Quoted from mbl1116:Does anyone on this thread have a Pro with zero issues at this point? Not trying to be snarky I just genuinely want to hear about the good experiences so far
i haven't had any issues other than a guide rail that needed to be raised. The only game that I think I have never had an issue with out of the box was LZ (i had a pro, now have a premium), but outside of that, don't think I've ever had a game with literally zero issues out of the box. Stern is really very good with parts, just pick a distro that is easy to work with and is response. Cointaker has been great getting me parts when I need them.
if you are worried, wait for a later run game or find one second hand.
After hearing about some diverters breaking, I took a quick look at mine. It was very loose with a lot of back and forth play. I tightened up the screw on top and most of the play is gone. Not sure if it will help, but we will see.
Game needs a lot more code, very repetitive and pretty basic from what I can tell. Hoping next revisions make the game come alive more.
Quoted from Waxx:I don’t know what “more code” people want. The game feels pretty feature complete to me.
Feels kind of shallow and repetitive, a bit flat to me. Just doesn't click with me yet. Had same issue with Munsters,.TMNT and star wars, never clicked.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Sounds like you’re just not a fan of Dwight’s games. No big deal.
Also, if you ignore the foundry and the breadth of the game, I can totally see how this would seem shallow. Path to the ends of his games are relatively achievable, it’s the stuff you do along the way that’s got the meat.
Yeah, I'm not really complaining, it's a fun game, just feel like it needs more. Not quite sure what that more is though, maybe it's just the repetition getting to me as I find myself skipping through the animations on screen a lot.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Don’t do that! Turn that setting off and allow yourself to actually watch the cool moments they created.
Start digging into what everything in the foundry does and the best way to use them.
Dive deeper into the encounters to see what great play in those will do for you.
Play games where all you do are side quests (hunter, scope, ambush) and really learn what those are doing for you.
Thx. I’m going to read the rule sheet and see if I can get into this more. Like I said, it’s a fun game and has that push the start button again type feel, but it’s not a game that gets your heart pumping, hence my comment about it feeling flat. In my collection, I find LZ, AIQ, GnR, and Metallica to be much better at that.
Quoted from Xelz:Out of curiosity, how smoothly does this shoot compared to EHOH?
It’s not really close, Ehoh is a much better shooter. Mando shots are very close to the flippers so if you brick a shot, the ball is all over the place. Ehoh has longer and more forgiving shots.
Quoted from Bmanpin:Just received mine today and it looks identical to yours
Thats common across games. I think my aiq le looks like that too.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mbl1116:After a refused delivery over a month ago and a few weeks at Stern getting patched up, my Pro should finally be arriving Monday or Tuesday
I’ve seen a handful of recommendations on what to do before playing the first game (flipper and trough strength/washers under guide, etc). Anything I’m missing? What were the strength settings people are having success with?
I feel like someone had recommended making the “initial adjustments” a key topic on this forum which I would definitely find helpful
I haven’t made any adjustments to my pro. If you lower the flipper strength you may not be able to make the center ramp, particularly backhanded off the left flipper.
1 week later
Quoted from douglasHicks:Apologies. It doesnt plunge at all. I get a multiball and the balls all hang out in the plunger lane.
go into switch test mode and see if the shooter lane switch registers (use a ball not your finger). the ball won't be shot on to the playfield if the shooter lane doesn't see a ball sitting there and it only sees a ball there if the switch is working.
if the switch does work, then it is a coil issue, potentially a broken wire off the coil lug or unplugged connector. look around underneath the playfield around the coil.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jerickso77:I bought the control knob one from Ler Mods which is similar to the stern one. It's pretty heavy though so had to get a stronger spring
Hmmm…I have it on my game and didn’t need to change the spring. It has some weight to it, but I just plunge a little easier.
1 month later
Quoted from thekaiser82:New code running. Got to the foundry and every time I select something it would make a weird rejection sound. Just had to pick what I wanted and let it auto select after the timer runs out. Will see if this is a fluke or repeat issue.
Edit: Yep. I can no longer select items in the foundry any longer. My action button does work as well so that is not the issue.
Same issue here, action button would not allow me to select items.
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Did u do a full install? I did the FULL install of 0.98 version game code and do not have the foundry issue.
What do you mean full install? I only recall being asked to verify, which I never do. Admittedly, I kind of go through it quick so maybe I missed the option.
Edit: just checked their instructions and there is a full install option. Will try that.
Quoted from spidey:I had just one game last night and also saw the Foundary button bug as well, but I did *something* that got around it. I don't know if I held the button in longer, or double tapped, or what exactly but I didn't have to wait for 10s.
I’ve seen this too, double taps or long presses, but only on some selections.
1 month later
Quoted from thekaiser82:Guarantee it is the grogu spotlight.
Or right side upper playfield spotlight flasher.
1 week later
Thought some of you guys might like seeing this. It's called silver artery and is really a great match if you are thinking of getting powder coating done.
PXL_20211117_000025721 (resized).jpgPXL_20211117_000033270 (resized).jpgPXL_20211117_000146233 (resized).jpgPXL_20211117_000153403 (resized).jpgPXL_20211117_000218876 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
Anyone else finding this game to be particularly brutal? The shots are so close and tight, bricks go right to the outlanes. The slings too are like magnets for the outlanes, even when I turn them down. I know I need to play better, but it’s really hard to string good games together, few and far between. Contemplating moving the outlane posts in a bit. I think my high score is around 500 mil, but most games are under 100 mil. My best games are when I can combine a mb with the missions.
Curious if others have a similar experience.
1 month later
Updated the code on my pro today, all good. Game really feels complete at this point and I like it a lot. One thing I did notice is when I matched 90-90, there was no knocker sound.
Quoted from J85M:Can this be done in blue?
Yes, but I wasn’t really offering it for sale, just kind of showing the possibility. Can pretty much do any color. No soldering needed. I suppose if someone wants one, I can make it for them. it utilizes an optical sensor.
1 week later
Quoted from BrandonLaw:I spoke too soon. 100 balls in and the protector failed us in an odd way possibly taught when installed and plastic finally gave way:
[quoted image]
is that the stock stern protector? The cliffy protector is longer and runs to the screw further up on the ramp. It's a mistake to use that screw if that is what Stern is using because there is no support for it, it's just plastic standoff holding it on. The screw further up has a nut on it.
Quoted from JonCBrand:Still having issues with horseshoe shot under right ramp on pro. Shot will register 50% of the time. I have checked the switch solder joints, switch test and such. I feel that the switch slot is poorly placed.
I'd say most of the time ot doesn't register is a fast backhand shot from right flipper.
Any fixes out there?
Felt or magnetic tape on horseshoe ball guide?
Unscrew the switch from under the playfield and then bend the switch by holding the switch down at the base and then pulling up on the end of it.
1 month later
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Finally got my Boba Fett ship mod installed on my Mando LE. It looks great. The ship hangs over the right ramp return wire form, so the ball goes underneath the ship nose. This is the Bandai 1/144 scale model, I built it painted it and decaled it. It has a cool detailed cockpit that I still need to light from inside the ship, Fett can be seen in the pilot's chair. It looks cool with the Razor Crest ship and Fett's ship hunting the Tie Fighter I have installed as well.
The ship shakes when the shaker on on.
If anyone needs direction on making this happen for their machine let me know. I am not a mods for sale guy, just did it for our home machine. The ship install bracket is custom and I got it 3D printed at XOMETRY for $20 or so. The other parts are probably another $20. The ship model is $80 to $100ish. Probably need 7 different paint colors, $2.75 per little bottle I guess. Hull Red, Red, White, Black, Military Green, Medium Olive and Sand Yellow. I used Vallejo 17 ml bottles.
Cheers!
[quoted image]
Looks nice. For those inclined, there are a few Slave 1 ships you can print (not sell) from thingiverse.
4 weeks later
Don't want this to come off as complaining, but do others find this game as frustrating as I do? Miss a shot and it's in outlane, hit the slings and it's in the outlane. Just when I get something going, it's in the outlane. I'm on factory outlane settings and 7 degree pitch, hesitate to move the outlane posts in. It's so brutal, to the point of wanting to sell it, which I really don't want to do, but I just may do it. Just played like 10 games, high was 187, but most were like 10-40 mil. My high i think is around 400 mil. When you do have that one great game, it's really satisfying and it does have that push the start button one more time feel to it, but man is it a frustrating game. It's as if the geometry is off, forcing the ball to the outlane more than any other game I've played. Likely because the shots are just too close.
One question, what are the ways to collect Beskar? TILT forum rules say hunter, scope and mystery...anything else?
Ok, so changed the pitch to 6.5, I which is the lowest I could get it, back legs all the way down. I was actually at 7.3 before. First two games were better, not quite as furious. Third game...bam! Pitch really does matter for this game..most of my games are set between 7-7.5. not going to touch the outlanes for now. Thanks for the advice.
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:Mandalorian is really fast and if you play it that way, you drain fast. It's fun, but very difficult as you said. I have a lot more success since I try to control ball more and play backhand everything that's possible. The vuk is safe with backhand, right ramp and horseshoe as well. Razor crest is easy from any side. Even left ramp is easier and more safe with backhand left flipper. Typical combo is backhand right ramp, razor crest, stop ball with left flipper, backhand vuk or left ramp. It's hard enough if you need the orbits, scope mode is very dangerous as well.
You are a mandalorian and get bescar mainly from hunter. You need hunter to re start Multiball modes without draining. Very dangerous, would not play just for bescar if you want good scores. If you can buy something, take random and use what u get... And well, if you can buy extra ball... I always need it
I tend to take the whistling birds smart bomb as my first choice.
Quoted from Wildbill327:Hunter is the quickest and most consistent way to earn Beskar but as you read on TILT forum the child(mystery)and scope will also give you a decent chunk of Beskar…but at random. If you really want to maximize your Beskar during a Hunter mode try hitting the ramp that’s flashing orange(opposite side of the lite orbit shot)to build up your Beskar before you finish Hunter. I love Hunter because it lets you decide to be greedy or safe and if you choose to be greedy it will help you to buy cool stuff in the foundry. If you just want to get a high score I suggest working on getting all multipliers running at the same time…then try to start jetpack multiball(my favorite or any multiball)and try to maximize you super jackpot(50 mil is max for jetpack)when you drain down to one ball shoot that super jackpot… but don’t forget to use your flamethrower to add to your multiplier. This shot and build up of the shot is one of the best in pinball IMHO…it also feels really rewarding to collect.[quoted image]
Ok, so I see the multiplier number in the upper right of the screen, can you explain what it means? I rarely look up when playing.
Quoted from T3quila:Mine is at 7.1* and I have the same experience as you: It's just brutal. I bought it off a show and it was at 6.5 there and it played a lot more forgiving. I'm almost there to bring it down to 6.5* as well. The reason why I haven't yet is, that usually at location they are that steep and I wanted to get better at it, but I'm at a point where I'm just frustrating myself.
definitely do it, the game is still not that easy, mainly because shots are not forgiving if you miss, but it's a lot less crazy. I have a pro and the upper playfield is pretty nice now with the shallower pitch. I literally was about to take pics to post a FS ad, but now I am much happier with it.
1 month later
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:Interested in hearing thoughts/reviews from those that bought the Grog mod....
I guess my one concern is that thing will be going off like crazy during attract mode. That doesnt really bother me, im just concerned it will wear out quickly. Looks like there's a way to turn that on off, but that seems like a bit of a pain to constantly doing.
I might be biased since we sell them, but here’s a few quick thoughts. We offer an on/off switch that makes it very easy to turn him off in attract mode if that bothers you. Personally, I like him moving. He doesn’t move like crazy, we have slowed him down with a voltage regulator and he triggers off the child insert instead of one the letters in the lanes. Lastly, we have sold many of these and there has not been a single reported failure. Hope that helps.
2 weeks later
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:I've seen it mentioned several times in this thread, that the game is perceived as "hard". Really?
Here's the thing from my perception: I'm a good player, so maybe I don't personally find it hard, but I don't think that matters when assessing if a game is hard or not. This game doesn't have a single "dangerous" shot. What do I mean by "dangerous"? I'm defining that as a shot that you're required to make (see, not optional), where when hit, comes back at you dangerously or is out of control. All main shots in Mando are pretty damn safe if made.
Contrast that with a game like Metallica or Walking Dead (or nearly any Borg game, LOL). You HAVE to hit Sparky, but that's a dangerous shot that comes back unpredictably. In that situation, you successfully made the shot, but can get punished severally. This is not the same as missing a shot and getting punished.
Now in Mando, all main shots are safe. Sure, you have to catch an orbit, but that's not the same as a Sparky shot, Well Walker, Prison, etc. Even the turnaround shot on Mando is fine if your game is level.
Given that it's a fan layout with safe shots, the game becomes control and muscle memory. Over time, you'll be having longer games. I can routinely get to the mini wizard modes on this.
Now, there's a good deal of content here to get through, but again, I wouldn't call that hard per se.
I guess the difference with mando is because the shots are so close, if you brick it, you’ve lost control and there’s a good chance it winds up in the outlanes. Forget going for the targets on the right and left. With Metallica and twd, there’s more chance to nudge and regain control. I find mando to be brutal, frustrating and sometimes not so fun. But, when you do have that great game, it is rewarding.
Quoted from bigguybbr:I guess I measure brutal against the TMNT Pro I used to own as my first Stern. Mando seems much more forgiving by comparison.
Yeah, I’ll definitely not argue with that.
3 weeks later
Quoted from weaverj:new owner here; day one. installing a shaker and this cable came loose. it's coming from this blue board under the center of the playfield and i think it was hooked up to the board in the front left of the cabinet. any ideas?
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That’s for a mod, not ours as we enclose our electronics. Do you have a moving grogu? The wiring for that doesn’t look great as it looks like the screw terminals on the blue board are used instead of soldering and could come loose. As for the connector, it Might go on the ticket header on the coin door board. If that connector came off just because of the shaker, suggests the connector from the mod wasn’t done right, poor pinning or wrong pins used.
Quoted from weaverj:yep, i'm pretty sure it's grogu. it was on one of those ticket things. it came loose while i was installing the shaker. i don't know which one it was on or the pins used. the connector is looking for four, but those two areas on the board are five wide.
You can check the manual for pin positions to make sure the wire positions match and the connector should be keyed so you can only plug it in one way. I’d assume red is 5v and black ground, but can’t say for sure if that’s how it’s wired. If it’s not keyed, another red flag.
Quoted from weaverj:not keyed. this mod is a bit of a yikes.
yep, the ticket connector is cn11; that should be where it goes. pin 1 is 12v and 4 is ground. looking at the pic, i'm guessing pin 1 is on the left. make sense?
In the manual, look where the key is and compare that against your wiring.
Quoted from RedPlunger:I Bought a Pro the other day and the family is enjoying it immensely. A couple of minor tweaks (10pt leaf switch) and it’s running great. Are there any tweaks that are common? There’s not many key posts which is a good sign. As far as mods I bought a deluxe Rgb speaker light and a plastic ramp upgrade from Mezel. Thinking about the foundry mod as well. I think it’s an underrated title from Stern.
[quoted image]
Hairpin turn on the right may not register well. Fix is to bend switch up slightly. Haven’t any other issues on my pro.
Quoted from crujones4life:That was more of a bandaid for my Mando. The ultimate fix was a MRS.
Why? It has worked 100% on my game and it’s been many months since I’ve done it? It’s just a slight bend so it’s sits a few mm higher and the switch is easily accessible underneath to remove and bend.
1 month later
Quoted from Mikew492:Wondering if someone may be able to shed light on something I noticed with my Mando pro. A nut was halfway unscrewed from what looks like the coil for the stop in the back center of the playfield. Is this normal? Doesn’t seem to be affecting anything from what I can tell…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Tighten the nut or it’s going to fall off. It’s an adjustment screw and if your game is playing correctly, you don’t need to adjust it, just snug it up.
1 month later
Quoted from Corminos:I just downloaded and installed the latest code 1.31.0.
The first ball on the first game after the upgrade played fine. Then on the second ball, the game tried to put 3 balls into the shooting lane. I kept opening the coin door, then sending the balls back, but it kept doing it.
I then turned the machine off and on again. After that, I could not start a game. Hitting the start button wouldn't do anything, even though it still said it was on free play.
I then did a factory reset, set it to free play again, and tried again, but no luck.
Has anyone had a similar experience? If so, please let me know. I've sent a message to Stern support, but I don't know when they'll get back to me.
Check your trough connectors. Unplug and reseat them. Put game into switch test mode and feed balls into the trough to make sure they all register.
Quoted from Corminos:Turns out that trough 5 and 6 are not registering. I checked all the wires to the two boards to make sure that they were secure. When I put my finger in the trough I could see the lights on the sensor light up, but that didn't register in the switch test. Trough switches 4-1 and the jam all were registering fine.
Could the sensors on either side of the trough be bad?
Did you unplug the connectors at the trough?
6 months later
Quoted from Deadpool66:Just received my topper and it plugs in were my animated grogu hooks up. Any type of work around?
4 weeks later
Quoted from jbigdoggf:What is the best animated grogu mod?
Hard to tell from reading the thread.
Best is subjective, but here is ours. I currently have one left in stock.
https://lermods.com/products/the-mandalorian-pinball-animated-interactive-grogu
2 weeks later
Quoted from chubtoad13:Lermods sells a splitter for that
Here you go, cheaper than pbl when shipping and tax are factored in.
6 months later
Quoted from Falc0nWing:i'm lucky to have the topper and the animated Grogu also, but how can I connect both to the power supply?
thanks!
[quoted image]
With a 4-way splitter.
https://lermods.com/products/4-way-stern-spike-splitter
2 months later
Quoted from pinopinballmods:Hi Everybody,
About this last mod SPINNING AHSOKA TANO FIGURINE
Finally I have made that. Based on your feedback.
The rotation speed of the motor can be varied with a microvariator directly connected to the wire. (0 volt -> 5 volts)
And the power supply (5 volts) to the small motor is done - either by one of the two GI (General Illimunation) networks, white lights or red lights. - either through the central red dome flasher. All connectors are provided for both options. The motor can be placed anywhere on your pinball machine. It is stuck with double-sided adhesive tape.
You can order here :
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/10335-spinning-ahsoka-tano-figurine
Note : For the lights in the sabers today it is not possible you have to wait (Version 2, I hope )
[quoted image][quoted image]
How much power does your motor draw? You should never run a motor off the GI, the power budget is not that high. At a minimum, you should at least have a diode or better yet, a fuse. There are better places to draw power. I see you use this spinning motor in several of your mods, hopefully those aren’t also running off the GI.
Quoted from pinopinballmods:Hi, yes for the most of my mods, I have used the power supply of 12v in the back box with a card which can reduce the voltage from 12v to 1,5v. And classicaly you can do a variation of the voltage on the card directly. It is also protected by a fuse. But I have tried recently also on GI and it seems to run perfectly too. I have to check what you say. It is a very very small motor. I have to check the consumation of it. Thank a lot for your advice.
It would be better to run it off the coindoor board, there is 5v there. It is typically used for ticket dispensers so no issue using a small motor like you are using.
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