The Mandalorian (LE)
Stern, 2021
The Mandalorian (Premium)
Stern, 2021
The Mandalorian (Pro)
Stern, 2021You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider flynnibus.
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The games are landing - and I don't see a club thread in the search... so here goes!
Our game landed yesterday and setup without any problems. Opened it up, cleaned the balls, and went right into play!
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One thing we heard from another op who setup their game yesterday... it looks like the opto at the feed to the mini playfield might be a bit suspect. And some rubbing on the swinging target. I'll try to take a closer look at the game today.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I guess they finally deleted the other one. People start like 5 clubs when they pay the deposit, lol! Glad that you’ve actually got it in hand! Thanks for sticking to the rules.
I bet it’s gonna earn like a monster!
It's a quick one for sure!
The mode hole feels like Indiana Jones all over... alot of shots like to bounce out of it (it has a factory metal 'cliffy' like surround). But you can backhand it from the left flipper a bit more reliably.
I probably should watch deadflip's stream again... there can be alot going on!
On the crossing ramps... they are pretty in your face as you look at the game, but I didn't really notice a problem with them blocking views during play except the right right. That area with the 3 blue scope shots is pretty hard to see. I don't think they are all that ugly, and would have a hard time justifying a few hundred to replace them. Maybe once they get really dirty my mind would change 
Walk up players should like the ease of starting multi ball.. the center lane/ramp shot is pretty easy to shoot. You'd think you MIGHT be able to backhand the left ramp... but its so tall, and I just don't think the geometry is quite there.
The 'dying power' on the upper flipper is a bit wonky right now. Wish there was maybe more audio or visual feedback on it happening. Tho I definitely felt it's impact. The mini PF was fun to try to complete.
I setup the game at about 6.8 deg mainly because that's where my first guess on the levelers put it and I didn't change it. The only shot that I think would be at risk for too steep is the tall left ramp.. but I still made it up there pretty reliably.
Quoted from TheLaw:I heard a straight shot to the u turn is trouble.
No obvious SDTM returns in our play so far. But honestly that area is so covered I'd probably have a hard time telling you exactly what was hit 
You can short plunge into the encounter mini-pf too.. tho it didn't really seem adventagous to do so.. I didn't get anything special for it and the points were not great for 'sneaky encounter' as it calls it.
Quoted from GravitaR:Very advantagous as target hits add up as a secret encounter value of some sort.
I'm still trying to make sense of that though. There didn't seem to be any objective or carry over or progress from it. You scored for hitting the targets and would get something on the order of 50-60k or so.. but when I did finish it.. it didn't seem to be any big payoff or reward. Its like 'heres some pitance points.. move along'. And doing it multiple times on different plunges didn't seem to have any cumulative or additive value.
Quoted from GoodOmens:What code is shipped on the pros? .91 or .95? .96 dropped today and mentioned the addition of the sneaky skill shot in .95 - I'm sure more tweaking is in order.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/mando_PRO-0_96-README.txt
Yeah i was hust coming back to say that. Just updated to .96 (was .91) and there is plenty of reason for the sneaky encounter now. Big points possible
So a thing to watch for… the hanging target can actually impact the mini pcb that measures the target.
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The slop in the mount allows the pin on the swing arm to actually contact the board. Will have to see what stern says about it.
Oh and the divertor on the center ramp was almost completely loose after 1 day. Just a screw to tighten, but it looks like it screws into plastic. (The plunger tip)
We had some streamers tonight on our game - https://m.twitch.tv/videos/1057455576
Game performed flawlessly.
Think there are some software issues still. If you get a weak left ramp that drops to the mini pf instead of making it to the return… the game doesn’t seem to know you made it to the mini pf and does nothing on the mini pf. We had one time we swore the ball save on the outlane didn’t register but that could have gone either way.
If anyone knows how the playfield multipliers work… please speak up!
It seems sometimes completing an objective will boost the multiplier… but we had a hard time getting it past +1x
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:I set up ours on location on Monday. I noticed that the ball doesn't always feed cleanly to the upper flipper - sometimes it just dribbles out with no way to hit it.
I think I measured the pitch by the flippers to be around 6.7. Is the pitch the issue? Anyone else have this problem?
It's just about how much energy the ball has coming into the mini PF. You don't get a full feed to the meat of the flipper all the time. A bit of umph/slack is often needed to get the initial contact. I see it as just part of the play of the mini.
Quoted from Thomas3184:What, no poll? What kind of owner’s thread is this…
Poll asking what?
Quoted from JPloof:Anyone with a pro able to post the rubber schematics from the manual? Manual isn’t on sterns website yet and I’d like to get a titan order- ready for my pro when it arrives.
manual? what manual? They are online only these days.
Took the diverter off today and realized the black 'post' is really just a stand-off. the screw is a long bolt that goes all the way through to the metal plunger. Recommend locktiting that bolt. It's coming loose within 50 games or so for me.
Quoted from mbl1116:Can anyone confirm the backbox width is the same as the other recent releases (27.75")? Believe it or not the entrance to my gameroom is just larger than 28"
Standard cabinet - nothing unique.
So i said there was a concern about the swinging target hitting the pcb. This was just a simple video i had taken to document the concern.
No issue with it yet… still waiting to hear stern’s response.
Game has held up pretty good so far. Only concern has been the divertor working its way loose every few dozen games. Added loctite to it now. Its holding so far
Quoted from Waxx:Has anyone noticed a clean left ramp shot can hit the diverter with enough force to bounce back and come down the ramp? I think something may need to get added to the metal stopper to deaden the bounce.
It happens - but low percentage on ours. The guy who posted a billion point video had it happen a lot more.. but he was also able to backhand the ramp at will.. which is something you can't do on our example.
The divertor already sits pretty loose (it floats and is only held by a loose guide hole and the coil plunger mount) so it kills alot of energy when the ball hits it.
I haven't seen it enough to be concerned IMO.
Quoted from Jerickso77:Could you just put a little mylar over the pcb or is that a bad idea?
Would instantly get chewed up. The swinging post has a metal bolt stud on the side.. I assume that is the part intended to trigger the proximity switch. That is the part that hits the component side of the PCB. Because it's the edge/side of the bolt/stud hitting.. it would chew through mylar I think.
Solution should be to move the swinging post further away from the board... but there is a bit of slop in the mech. Putting a washer to position the swinging art out further on the pivot rod and take out some of the slack maybe the best strategy right now. I haven't tried because I didn't want to take the mech apart at the time.
Quoted from Lermods:For those not liking the plastic ramps on the pro or thinking they might want the wire forms, we developed an interactive ramp light mod option that triggers with the upper left dome flasher. This flasher is active when the left spinner or pops are hit.
[quoted image]
Are they light pipes like the tron kits?
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:Chipping spotted on my routed game that's been on location less than 2 weeks.
[quoted image]
put a thin washer under the guide post like most WPCs have. A dab of paint and no one will see it.
Quoted from Lermods:Thank you for posting that. I just went and checked my game and I could see it would start to do the same thing. Seems stern still has not learned that they are tightening the ball rails down too much and allowing them to dig into the playfields. Washers should be under every single ball rail guide. I did check the rest of the game and the ball rail is raised everywhere except for this spot, which is on the left side of the hairpin turn. To prevent further damage, I loosened the nut underneath a few turns and used a punch to raise the guide. Luckily no paint chipped off. First pic shows it starting to dig in, second pic shows it raised with no damage.
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What's interesting is it looks like the hole for the ramp post is bigger. Often the spread of the bolt where it opens up for the rivot was too big to fit in the playfield holes. Here, the guide goes all the way to the PF surface w/o any issue and lots of room around the bolt. Yes, should have the thin washers to prevent this easily avoidable scenario.
Speaking of, I need a ready source to find those super thin washers again...
Quoted from EaglePin:You can use a fiber washer and snip a wedge out of it to slide it around the guide post without having to remove the guide. Here's what I did on my JP2:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/66#post-5328991
Solid tip! I certainly wasn't looking forward to disassembly just for this.
Quoted from Lermods:I think the Tron lights are El wire, but am not really sure what they used. these are led tube lights.
Thx
Tron kits are light tubes. Two light blocks are mounted below the PF.
Quoted from nick_k:Wish I had my phone out to capture it but I think...maybe...possibly? that I had a bug today. I had a mission going but was locked out of multiball. Can't remember what mission it was but Razorcrest was not lit. This wasn't the wizard mode and I didn't have the Razorcrest wizard ready to go. Are there certain missions that cannot stack? Has this happened to anybody else? I played a few games after that and couldn't replicate it so that's why I'm on Pinside seeing if it has happened to anybody else.
Did you start ambush? The hit the white arrow mode? (Started by enough shots to the u turn when lit)
Quoted from silver_spinner:anyone elses ramp diverter break in half already? any quick fix ideas?
[quoted image]
1) Epoxy/jbweld - but you don't have a large amount of contact area. Weld, if you have the tools.
2) Get in touch with Stern asap to get a replacement sent.
Quoted from mbl1116:I gotta say these posts are giving me some pause on this game. I understand that all machines require regular maintenance but this seems like a ton of early issues with minimal plays
Nah - this is pretty typical and the issues being found so far are readily addressable.
Every title has them... when you are on the leading edge and watching.
Led Zep has problems with the lifting spinner mech
Jurrasic Park had issues with the rotating truck and captive ball
Stranger Things had magnet-toy issues and moving ramp issues
etc etc
The critical point is how easy things are to resolve or if they are lingering issues. So far, nothing stands out as 'how/when will they be able to fix THAT?'.
Quoted from Lermods:I just checked the other side of the ball guide and while it wasn't digging in, it was touching the playfield and I could not slip a piece of paper under it. I decided that was enough and removed the guide and put a washer under each side of it. It's really easy to remove that ball guide.
1. Remove the two screws on the top of the ramp that connect to the two hex posts. This will free the ramp.
2. Remove the two hex posts (and washers underneath the hex posts) and this will then free the plastic so you can access the ball guide.
3. Lift the playfield and remove the two nuts and washers holding the ball guide in place.
4. Gently tap the screws to loosen them so it will be easier to pull the ball guide out.
5. Lower the playfield and pull the ball guide out.
6. Add two small washers and reinstall.
took me less than 10 minutes.
Just completed this on our game… thank you for taking the time to write it out so i knew i had time to get it done today!
Super easy and highly recommend all owners do this. I used simple M5 washers i had in my toolbox. They are nice and wide throat so they sit under the tapered bolt well.
This is what the pf looked like.
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And what it looks like after…
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Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:This is ridiculous. Why would they keep doing this. I have a new JP2 playfield coming. Ball guides are driven like someone hammered them in.
Its only a risk where ball guides don’t use flanges
Quoted from mbl1116:Does anyone on this thread have a Pro with zero issues at this point? Not trying to be snarky I just genuinely want to hear about the good experiences so far
My experience has been great. Don't take people documenting the finer details of tweaks or issues to mean the game is plagued. It's just part of the new game experience. Want a game where everything has been figured out already... wait for later runs.
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:The second paragraph summed up my thoughts. The 5 modes to the first wizard mode feels very much like Munsters to me and is just as attainable. You get 2 more wizard modes for multiballs and the mini playfield which add depth and options. Then the foundry, hunter, scope are good side things to do. There is a good bit to do but still feels based on the core 5 modes and let's face it, the large scores are going to be in how you use the playfield multipliers.
Anyway, I see core similarities. It's not a bad thing.
Its about the right stacks.
Get a good mission… get your scope and hunter multipliers and cash in with the spider mb… add a flamethrower and wooosh
But its hard to aline all those things
not every game needs to be TWD hard to qualify things.
And if people really think the game is too easy for them, then change the settings.
The one that is kinda frustrating right now is ambush… you can build shot values in it, but its a tough mode for what seems like little payoff right now
Quoted from splitcms:I don’t think he’s saying it’s too easy. The code just isn’t that deep. That is just a Dwight Sullivan thing. Fairly basic, straight forward and not too deep. Definitely not a bad thing, just not everyone’s style.
The comment included things like “obtainable”… people get bored because they feel like they’ve done everything there is to do. My comment was highlighting this isn’t always just about what to start… but what to achieve.
BSD is a great example…. The three multiballs are easily obtainable and the vast majority of the game. Too simple and boring right? No… the lure of the game is not just doing a mb… but getting all three together the lucrative stack.
That objective… not just the modes themselves part of the big lure that keeps you coming back
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:I played a pro again last night for the 2nd time, really liking this game. I got over 800 million, but since I'm still learning the rules I'm not sure how. I think it was the 3rd multiball, I bought it from the foundry. It must be much more valuable than the first 2?
Also, not sure if there's a bug list or this has been discussed but we had an odd one. Friend ended the game with 130 million. It asks for his initials. We were confused because we didn't think it was enough to get in the board. He puts them in and it shows him as encounters champ with 203 million. What? This should probably be reported to stern unless they're already aware
I saw the same with encounter champ. When testing encounters and sneaky encounters the game awarded me champ at like 430mil for a game that was only like 200mil score total
Quoted from sepins:Think it's OK for a couple of weeks in my garage sealed in box??? Brick construction so garage never gets over 80 degrees
And not really humid in garage.
its no worse than in the back of a truck, or in a container, or in some distribution center. It will be fine.
Quoted from JPloof:I wonder if anyone with an LE now, also has access to a pro? Would be interesting to know if the metal ball ramps are a simple drop in and could replace the plastic ramps.
The attachment points are all the same.
as much as people woe over the plastic ramps obscuring the right ramp area... I think the crossing metal ramps are just as bad blocking the approach to the u turn.
Quoted from Phbooms:I haven't seen a pro but I can see the right ramp pretty good
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not the ramp.. the left blue arrow and u turn shot. The approach to it (and how you aim) is quite obscured.
Quoted from P1nhead:Pics of the crap powder coating job... some build-up and pooling of material on the lockdown bar as well, made the radius too large for the round over on the cabinet and started to damage the cabinet - very noticable when looking at the machine.
Stern has not responded all week and my distro says open the ticket first with stern then they will be able to take care of things.
[quoted image][quoted image]
what cabinet issue are you referring to? doesn't sound quite right... the cabinet corners are mitred down at the front edges.
Quoted from Yelobird:Can only say the application of crinkle paint is not the same as powder coating and the corner miter looks the exact same. Looks like a non issue to me personally.
30 seconds of dremel and some black paint… and this goes away
Quoted from P1nhead:can't touch anything until I hear back from stern. though it is concerning the powder coat continues to flake at all the spots with rust, revealing more rust underneath.
If your PC is pealing away certainly pursue that with stern. It should stand up to normal handling without issue. Plus they can drop a lockdown bar in a ups box on a whim… much faster resolution
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Can someone explain the playfield multipliers? I know I've started them occasionally, but I'm not sure how
green - started by hitting the standup targets next to it. Times out after about 30sec first time used, times out quicker on subsequent uses. Completing targets again extends time.
blue - awarded by successfully making a sniper shot
orange - awarded by successfully completing a hunter sequence
Blue and orange both run much longer.. like nearly a minute and half on first time. I don't know if they can be extended.
The lights will switch to blue/purple as the countdown gets near.. and speed of flashing increases as well.
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Thanks. So after completing one of those 3 then you you have to hit both multiplayer targets on the side of the right ramp to start it? Or does it start automatically? Maybe those targets just extend the time
Scope and Hunter both start automatically immedately after completing the objective. Green (the targets) starts automatically after the required target hits. There is no separate 'start the multiplier' like say.. Maiden has.
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:What do the 2x and 3x targets by the ramp do then? Chuck said he thinks the boba targets extend time. I play on route so I can't pull the glass to test unless I happen to catch the owner there.
Those targets are still a mystery. Honestly I think they don't do anything at this point in the code besides blink Maybe they have more intent in the prem/le given the ramp effect there.
Even glass off it was kind of hard to time the multipliers exactly. They reduce in time on multiple uses in the same ball. I know for sure the targets extend time on the green multiplier (approx 15 seconds), I just didn't have hard data on the others. Figuring out the target sequence needed was also kinda wonky. I'm sure they extend the other timer, but I didn't get a chance to try to work how how the multipliers might change when stacked.
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:It's very confusing. You're right, maybe with a code update we'll get better info on it. This is key to a great score. I started it the other day and went into a multiball, scored 300 or 400 million very quickly. Wish I could have looked up to see what some of the shots were scoring
The stern rulesheet says "2x Ramp" specifically - so I guess they temporarily 2x the value of the right ramp shot. Seems the most potential if playing the ambush mode... otherwise right ramp points are really only mission points (or ice spider mb points)
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Good to know. So just max the playfield multiplier, get the ramp to 3x and blow the game up. Collecting a mode shot along with a multiball shot on the ramp should be huge points. I can't think of a game offhand that uses the 2x and 3x like this. I thought they worked like they do on GB
I'm more of the mindset of... get PF multis up... start lucrative mode like mudhorn... and if you got icespider... then light flamethrower.... now you're cooking.
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:What are your scores like? Hit a billion?
That's my plan... I have not yet fully mastered it yet
Gotta figure the best way to manage which MB and mission to start. To force the opportunity vs waiting for it.
Quoted from Apinjunkie:This is an issue that's come up for a number of owners, sounds like a design flaw or it may just be that those guides are just too tight from the factory. Seems like it needs a little wiggle room, adding a rubber grommet between the ramp and guide might be a simple fix.
Looks to me like the flange is too small vs the screw size and the protector could have been longer to avoid having the mount point still in the line of fire from the flipper. Longer cliffys maybe the answer in the future.
Now that LEs are in hand... how about some nice close-up shots of the wireform attach points. Loganpinball is making sets, but would help for posterity if we had some good images of Stern's ramps and how well they are secured or not at the ramp transitions. The pro's returns can slide around a good bit.. curious how tight the wire rod mount is in comparison.
Quoted from bernieberg:I received my replacement diverter from stern today. It took just over a week to get it. It looks to be the same welds as the one that broke. Hopefully they make stronger welds in the future. I think I will just stick with my zip tie solution for now, as it seems to be working well and is getting plenty of plays on location.[quoted image]
Man from that side it even looks like spot welds with almost no penetration. Guess no changes yet :/
Quoted from Phbooms:Is there any scenes or assets shown on the screen during ambush and if you complete it?
Yes its a whole mode of its own. You should see the screen saying how many shots left after making the successful combo to progress towards it
Quoted from Chetrico:The bounce back from the center ramp wouldn't bother me so much if the ball didn't go SDTM every stinking time!!! That ramp takes no prisoners!
yeah normally that ramp isn't that mean.. half missed shots happen all the time.
For all the people concerned about frequency of bouncebacks... I'd suggest people consider the slope of their game and the flipper power. On ours I think it's about 6.8+ and default flipper power and maybe... 1 out of 6? might bounce back.. and I'd say it's probably lower than that. And it's not usually a SDTM risk.
Multiple ops around us have turned the default flipper power down - on ours it just hasn't seemed really necessary, but that would be my first option.
Quoted from Chetrico:I found the culprit for the STDM. Rejected ball bounces off this guide to the the right guide and draino. Looks like a little bend ahould fix it.
[quoted image]
This is what another poster suggested is breaking the ramps... the fact the ramp protector isn't flush to the ramp. So hits to the protector go all to the screw hole. May want to enlong the screw hole in the protector so it can sit flush against the side of the ramp.
Quoted from Clytor:We had the diverter break on our Mando at the club. Stern sent out a new one. When I bolted the new one on, it wouldn’t sit all the way down onto the ramp. It binds against the left wall of the ramp, about half way down. I can see why the ramp is getting marred up(less of an issue) and why weak welds might break by binding there. Anyone else have this issue?
30 seconds against the grinding disc to shorten it
(Or just reshape it by bending the end in)
Quoted from dtrimberger:How many of you immediately changed out the plastic ramps?
No one has because there is no means to yet. One guy is making them and the stern pns are known… but that’s it
Quoted from attyrhodes:Did anyone else who picked up their LE notice that they went through and reinforced the weld on the diverter for the upper playfield? I noticed it on both of the ones I set up, looked like they went through and doubled up on top of the old joints.
pix?
Quoted from thekaiser82:How many plays and at what power?
Default - over 1200 plays
Other sterns in the row were also at default without the same quick wear. But several default at like 225… (if the scale is the same). Mando default is 255
Quoted from Trekkie1978:On location or do you play a lot of pinball?
This example we have on location.
Quoted from PaulCoff:Pics of your ramp near Carl Weathers, please. What did you do to protect it in location play?
You mean the left ramp? We’ve had no issue. I believe some had the ramp protector not flush with the ramp so all impact force was going to the screw hole and the lip of the ramp is pretty narrow.
Quoted from Jerickso77:What about just removing the screw and gluing the protector to the ramp?
If the protector won't sit flush, just elongate the hole in the tab so you can sit the protector flush against the ramp. People are making this way too complicated...
Quoted from OriginalFresh:May need to check the screws that hold the upper playfield plastic down. All of them were loose. The upper left screw fell out while I was playing and rolled towards the flippers. Further inspection I noticed a smaller black screw was missing on the front end of the angle brackets. For the life of me I cannot find this screw.
[quoted image]
I know they use small black screws in some of the plastics. Check for holes in the flat plastics around the game.
Quoted from BWelch:Anyone have issues with the right scoop sticking? Noticed mine wasn’t firing in test, the scoop sticks on the inside on a weld. Notified my distro who is reaching out to Stern. You can see in the pics where the welds are, and it dips into the scoop. Other than that, have been having a ton of fun with this pin!!
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That kind of weld look is normal - those photos don't really show anything abnormal. Is the divertor physically binding?
something to watch for... our left orbit guide keeps working its way outward... leading to the orbit shot hitting the post as it exits the orbit and thus bouncing towards the center of the PF. Fix is to just remove the plastic, and reset the guide's position with the wood screw holding it in place.. but it's happened a few times now.
Quoted from douglasHicks:Anyone having trouble with the left orbit? On my Pro , *every* ball coming down the left orbit hits the little rubber post and drains right down the center. Its damn near unavoidable. I don't *think* it's by design, but I could be wrong.
[quoted image]
Undo the plastic on top of the guide... like 2 screws and a nut. Move to the side, loosen the screw holding the ball guide to PF, push guide towards the middle of the PF a bit till balls don't hit the post, retighten screw and put back together. The guide likes to work its way outwards
Quoted from Waxx:It is not, you need to take off the lane guide and bend it a little at a time until it feeds correctly.
Don't even need to bend.. the 1/16" or so the guide moves in the existing screws is all you need. Just reposition and re-tighten the screw holding the guide down.
Quoted from chickenscratch:Alright, don’t rip me a new asshole for this, but I have my verdict after a full week of play in-home; and no, it’s not going away.
Day 1, not knowing the rules or shots, I loved the pin. When it flows, it feels really good, but there is a reason for that… cause it doesn’t really flow.
The geometry, on nearly all shots, is just… off. Nearly anything is not consistently backhand-able, and even when you nail shots, it often rejects. Because of the angle issues, the pin is more brutal than it should be; I’d 9.5/10 play BKSOR over this. Both brutal, but I never feel like I make a shot and miss on that pin.
Going to try a variety of fixes, a I notice my right flipper hides all the underneath black, and that it’s the reason for being unable to consistently backhand the right ramp.
But beyond that, the math just feels off. And I hate it. It doesn’t feel like JP where it rewards difficult shots, but instead punishes you with a made shot and ooooops… reject!
Now, I can nearly never get rid of this pin as my wife adores it and makes her want to play pinball (theme, theme… THEME!), and it’s “her pin” and thus it stays.
Man I really want to love this pin, but the maths, just no - I think I kinda hate it.
The art means nothing on its own - thats just simple registration. Cnc cuts all that stuff uniformly regardless of where the art is. The ramp entrance (at least on pro) is on a slide… maybe try tweaking that or the flipper bat angle.
Right ramp, razor crest, and left scoop are really the main shots that should be consistent backhand. The super jackpot can be too but is tighter and on some games the left ramp.
Quoted from Tigetoo:Ok need to hear thoughts how to handle this one. New Mando le and out of the box chips on a NEW LE. I’m sure there is it to find.
What would you expect done?
[quoted image][quoted image]
That's not even from play - that's just due to the bolt in the PF. They'll tell you to put some spot clear on it (hard as nails polish) and call it a day.
Quoted from GoodOmens:So Stern is sending me a warranty replacement for the left ramp. They are claiming they are looking into any other causes for the ramp cracking but believe it was "an issue with the way the ramp was originally assembled on production"
Good to hear the confirmation of what has been said from the start and people can be at peace as long as their guide is flush and supported.
Quoted from PismoArcade:I’m thinking you’re right. It seemed to come from this area.
So what do you think? Is it worth worrying about? I’ve owned pins with plastic ramps in the past without a problem. Don't want to bug my distro unless it's something serious.
[quoted image]
That looks pretty normal - they are talking about the left ramp entrance.
Quoted from SNES:I think I saw someone posted about this before, but I got my game yesterday and think I found a bug. I got Encounter Champion at 56 million and my total score was only 26 million. I assume others seeing this type of issue right?
Yes been there since launch. Bug
Quoted from KSP1138:What was the build date and does it have insider connected installed?
Games coming in now don’t have any insider changes yet
Quoted from bigfatdaddy:I just unboxed my Mandalorian LE last night. Rather disappointed. Both flipper buttons stick, the scoop ejects more than half of the shots into it, and even the big ramp to the tilting head kicks back balls. Any suggestions? I have it totally level with the bubble level in the machine and even checked sideways level.
None of this is woe-ful.
If the flipper buttons bother you, pop them out and sand the barrel of the shaft. Apparently they have some flash/casting on them that is dragging. Play with them easily with the flipper switch out of the way and you can experiment to your heart's desire. Only requires pliers and a hex driver.
The scoop will reject shots -- this is pinball. You can also dial back the flipper power some from the default which will improve this.
Same with the left ramp -- rejects are common. Dialing down the flipper power is the first most effective step. The default flipper power is way higher than needed. You can add some deadening foam to the divertor's stop point if it bothers you more.
Quoted from TigerLaw:There is a chance they won’t grandfather in old orders that were in prior to the increase? I’d go bonkers if that is the case. Stern allowed their distributors to market and advertise prices and accept and backlog orders once the game was announced. Stern legally is stuck with honoring those prices for fully paid in orders, at least under Louisiana law they are…your mileage may very based on where you live and where your distributor may be located.
I think it will boil down to people who have actually made a purchase, including a partial payment with invoice... vs people that are 'on a list' or maybe just completed a deposit to secure an order/spot - but not actually completed a sale.
Obviously it's in everyone's interest to honor the old price for orders already taken for committed lots (at both stern and distros). 'demand orders' that aren't booked would likely goto post-increase prices.
Quoted from Waxx:Hello Everyone, I am not the first person do to this but I don't see it recommended enough as a possible solution so I thought I would post with visuals.
Problem:
Mando Pro upper playfield ball releases sometimes can dribble out when you can't get a good nudge to bounce it over to the flipper, so you never get a single shot.
Possible Solution:
Remove the two screws holding a plastic guard that stops the ball dead so it can dribble out (see photo)
Video of possible fix:
I was debating trying other things to get more rubber or nudge on with the plastic still on but this seems to be really working well to always get it to the flipper.
[quoted image]
I still think this is cheating/dumbing the game down. I never bother trying to nudge the ball over, I have more success just doing more of a slap save flip if the ball comes up short. If it doesn't work, that's pinball... it's not a controlled feed.
Quoted from Waxx:Cheating seems strong as you are assuming the design intention was to not feed the flipper. If you like it that way that is totally cool but I think they intended the ball to make it to the flipper as on the Premium it goes directly to the left every time.
The premium also has other elements of difficulty/randomness due to the movement -- the Pro compensates differently with more randomness in the feed. It's supposed to be a difficult thing - not a gimmie.
Quoted from Rooniedoodle:I also am having some issues on the poorly welded piece that diverts the ball to the upper play field. Whilst it has not broken yet their is a lot of right to left horizontal play. In fact they unit is making a significant “TING” sound and you can see it moving
Is this normal and or is their away to tighten the unit up as I don’t believe it was like this to start with.
Normal - The bracket floats there in guides, it's only attached by a post.
Quoted from JayLar:New to the club, trying to learn this game. What is the best usage for the flamethrower?
I like using it on spider multiball and mudhorn mode.
Remember you gotta hold it to let it lite all shots. So do it while the video is playing when the mode starts
Quoted from JayLar:Didn't know you're supposed to hold it. Will try!
Yes, you will watch the 'fire' effects pan over the arrow inserts from right to left. Only hitting it quickly will only lite one shot! You have to hold it a good bit, probably a good 4 seconds or so to get all the way across the PF.
Quoted from PismoArcade:I've had my Mando pro for over a month and although I'm enjoying it, I'm finding the game is more difficult than I had hoped.
Either that or my skills have really diminished in the last few years that I haven't owned a game.
I'm seriously humbled by how shitty of a player I've become. My top score is 260 mil which compared to others is pretty pathetic.
Dropped more "f bombs" since I've owned it than I normally do in a year.
260m is a solid score. I think our best location players are only doing like 350-650 on their best games.
I don't take most of the pinside scores to heart at all... people set their games up ridiculous so they can 'enjoy it' more.
It's hard to grind a high score on the game. The big scores come from the lucrative stacks. Focus on earning a scope or hunter multiplier, and get a mode+MB going and scores will jump dramatically. You'll fall into the fett multiplier while playing the stacked stuff.
Quoted from Axl:Pinball Universe just announced new products for Mando. Mezelmods will probably start selling them soon.
https://pu-parts.com/the-mandalorian-upgrade-kit_1
https://pu-parts.com/mediafiles/pdf/swtm-pu-upgrade-kit.pdf
https://pu-parts.com/the-mandalorian-pro-ramp-upgrade-kit
https://pu-parts.com/mediafiles/pdf/pu-mandalorian-ramp-upgrade-kit.pdf
https://pu-parts.com/the-mandalorian-plastic-no-38
Should fix a lot of the problems with the game.
I read through their installation guide of their 'upgrade' kits and don't know why anyone would need any of these things.
None of them have been issues we have seen from day 1 ownership.
Played a friends LE the other night...
The garbage flipper buttons Stern got into are legitimately crap.
The rotating PF is harder than I thought it would be... two flippers is nice, but I think I still kinda prefer the pro's Mini PF style.
But I could backhand his left ramp way easier than our pro. I'm gonna have to look at flipper angles really closely.
Quoted from digitaldocc:I just can't understand godzilla shipping before they fulfill Mando orders. Makes no sense unless stern is purposely delaying Mando to hike the price up.
No - this is always the way... Stern builds in batches and interleaves products in their build schedule so they aren't always building one thing and they don't keep building until all orders are filled.
So they plan on building X number of mandos and then switch to next game.. even if there are more than X games sold and have it on the schedule to come back to build the next batch.
Keeps inventory stocked and moving vs having one title busy out every other title.
Quoted from J85M:Shit didn’t know that!
I was about to post how do you get all 3 multipliers lit on the right.
Get one from completing boba stand ups (green), the other from competing all 3 shots of scope? How do you get the orange x1?
1 from targets
1 from completing hunter
1 from successful scope shot
Quoted from alex_m:Are Stern's notorious factory coil stops an issue with this game? Supposed to be getting my NIB this months and wondering if I should order replacements ahead of time.
They must have used up the stock of crap parts. We haven’t had the premature failures in games after JP release
Quoted from Waxx:I’m wondering if there is a better solution involving the right ramp to horseshoe for a similar flow.
Unless the goal is to not have Ambush ever happen. I think I have done it once in hundreds of games.
It's certainly something you need to focus on if you want to play it on the pro. The biggest issue seems to be the hard return from the U shot as it can be risky in how it bounces off the side and can go SDTM.
I think most people just don't realize what shot qualifies it
Quoted from kempsuk:OK. Its just started happening (been fine up until today)... as the ball goes round the orbits (right to left), comes down the left orbit and SDTM. This has only just started happening... the Pin is level. Anyone??
Move plastic over left orbit (2 nuts one screw) to expose screws holding ball guide. The guide likes to move inward at the last mounting point allowing the ball to clip the sleeved post at the end of the guide. Reposition guide so ball doesn't touch post and tighten. Replace plastic
Quoted from Xelz:Replacing a stop is very simple, though I don't have my Mando yet to know how easy it is to access the upper playfield coils. These stops take a beating and will wear down over time, but some new pins seems to have stops deteriorating faster than than better quality third-party stops. Coil stop quality from manufacturers these days sound almost like flipper rubber and ball quality - you almost want to consider replacing them straight away.
It seems like any pin with coils between the main and upper playfields is going to have this problem if users don't replace the coil stops as soon as they go bad. Any signs of metallic dust under a coil means its time to check the stops.
Don't generalize too much here.
Factory coil stops are fine - the issue was Stern went through a period where they had a batch of complete crap stops and kept using them even though it was known they were failing prematurely. Do not apply that issue as a general rule of thumb.
And as noted earlier, Stern seems to be past that now with at least flipper coil stops. It's possible other coil sizes may still have some bad stock, but that hasn't been noted as an issue in general.
Lastly - coil stops on anything but flippers are going to last longer than most people in this hobby. Even pop-bumper coil stops will go for decades of use without being replaced.
The last thing we need is people now thinking they gotta replace all coil stops in their games before they play them... after they've put on their protectors.. replaced all the rubbers.. and changed all their balls.. and rebuilt their flippers after 50 players.
R-E-L-A-X
Quoted from Apinjunkie:Okay, I give up... What am I doing wrong? I'm trying to upgrade my Mando pro to the new code and just can't get it to do it. I have downloaded the files from Stern onto a USB stick. The files are unzipped on the stick but the machine does not acknowledge anything different when it boots. I am currently using the port at cn9 but I've tried others as well. I have tried reloading the files from Stern but still nothing. Short of just banging on the monitor I'm not sure what else to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Format the USB drive as 8 or 16gig using a PC and fat32. Copy the unzipped files to the drive, plug in USB, power cycle the game.
Formatting of the drive into a partition the platform recognizes is almost always the problem. Windows will do it cleanly w/o much error. OSX disk utilities have masked so much it's a pita to get reliable. diskpart or something would be advised if you didn't have a windows box available.
Really big partitions have also been a problem in the past. Partition to 8 or 16 and it will work w/o issue
Quoted from FamDocKevin:Anyone know anything about the Mando shooter rod from Stern. Got mine today and there are divots all over the surface. Is this an intentional look?[quoted image]
yes.. 'weathered'
Quoted from John1210:The new code really adds some polish. Such a great title to have in a line up with the strategy and layout.
Only gripe I have is I think scope should continue to a roving shot for the 4th attempt. Now after you've hit your 3 scopes for the playfield x the only way to get full 6x is purchasing x from foundry. I guess it just means more strategy and forward thinking.
Finish hunter for a playfield x... finish scope... hit targets.. 6x
Quoted from crujones4life:What kind of bulb is this? It was in the board in the back of the playfield (the 5 or 6 lights across the top). I'd like to get the exact same bulb as a replacement. What brand, brightness, color warmth (looked like maybe warm white)? I thought Stern used Comet but there are no markings on this bulb.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Stern used Cointaker for a long time. I'd guess 2 SMD frosted cool white. Either way, its up under the cabinet, you don't see them directly when standing at the game. Don't sweat it and just put in the right color temp.
Quoted from JStoltz:This is probably Stern ownership 101 for most, but figured I would share since it was a first for me. The adjustable position outlane posts are pretty tough to move if you don’t have the right tools. It’s worth a trip to the hardware store to get a set of “deep well sockets” for the job.
Use a deep well 1/4” for the top side. Bottom side is 3/8”, but no need for a deep well socket there.
Buy a set of 'ignition wrenches' - they are basically pocket sized combination wrenches. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W30681-Ignition-Wrench/dp/B01GGV21V2/ref=asc_df_B01GGV21V2/ (not the ones I use, just example)
The 1/4" wrench is essential and works perfect for these kinds of post jobs. The reason for recommending these kinds of tools is because you frequently the posts are blocked from above and you can't get a socket on them. These pocket wrenches are used all over the place for small parts on the topside. Great thing to have in your toolbox.
Quoted from JStoltz:Good call! Smallest wrenches I have atm are metric and only down to 7mm, hence my decision to just get some SAE deep well sockets.
I hate the idea of backing out ~1 inch of threads using a wrench (time consuming) but definitely see where it’d sometimes be necessary. Glad the outlane posts are exposed!
back in the day, these kinds of mini-wrenches would be part of your '300pc automotive toolkit' or whatever and what I have my originals from. When I went to buy a set to put in my route bag, I found the current Craftsman sold are garbage compared to the original.. but they still are functional enough.
For instance I just used them last week to put nuts on the diverter on whirlwind.. which is INSIDE the ramp and in a vertical position. Mini-sized tools are the only option. I use them all the time for playfield posts. Usually you can screw them in by hand for those that are tight enough the thread bites, or they just push through without the threads biting. They also work great for reaching nuts that are on the UNDERSIDE of things.. like under plastics, ramps, etc.
Quoted from Jamwin:Thoughts on using loctite for the screws that hold the left orbit rail in place so it guides to left flipper? Having to readjust it again. Gotta say, of the Sterns i've owned, this one requires the most tinkering and constant adjusting.
You don't loctite wood screws. Usually more tension is the answer. So lock washers, etc might help. Or giving the screw more bite into the guide to prevent slipage.
Quoted from crujones4life:Noice! When did they start adding the Stern logo to shooter housing?
last few games.. I forget when... maybe avengers? It's just an insert decal - not too unlike most of the 3rd party stuff that is often 3d print.
Quoted from crujones4life:My Mando doesn't have one...[quoted image]
Going back through my photos, I first took a picture of it on Godzilla - so when GZ Pro shipped in October 2021 should be when it started
Quoted from thekaiser82:If you remove the stern decal on the shooter housing there will be two holes. These are holes for the lighted shooter rods like JP. Rather than have two shooter housings they just use the one with holes and cover it with a sticker if lights aren’t needed. I powdered my B66 housing and you can see the holes that were under the Stern sticker I removed. The stern decal covers the whole face of the shooter.
[quoted image]
Makes sense if they had the new shooter rod assembly and wanted to unify on it. Thx for sharing.
Remember everyone... everything from a node board requires the 48V and interlock. So everything on the PF, or connected through it
Quoted from TrixTrix:This is *mostly* true. Some nodes, like the QR scanner do not require +48V, and get their (low voltage) power directly from the nodebus cable. There is a Standard Adjustment "COIN DOOR OPEN NODEBUS POWER", that controls whether the nodebus power should be present when the interlock switch is open. You can set this adjustment to YES to keep the Scanner powered when the coin door/interlock switch is open.
thx for that clarification. hadn't noticed the adj option for enabling that low power before!
Quoted from monsterbaldy:Warning, old man rant here, but my mando premium came with the Stern Insider kit thing and I totally hate it. I don't like the stupid bright red nonsense and QR codes on my pin and I don't like a bright white square while I am playing a game. I can take the crap off but it looks like I will need to order a new apron and right decal?
Or just cut out a printed card and put it over it?
Quoted from ticktockman:I am having a hell of a time getting INSIDER CONNECTED to work on my new Mando Premium. It's connected via wifi but every time I scan my phone's QR code the machine's LCD screen says the machine is not registered. It does not prompt me to then go and register it (I have looked for how to do this and cannot find anywhere other than to just register my machine on Stern's website using the serial number).
If I go into the settings and go to NETWORK and then ABOUT it gives my a QR code on the screen to scan to go register all machines on the wifi network, but the QR code keeps reading as invalid.
Help??
The steps are
1) Have your insider account on the website complete - where you can log in, and you have your personal QR code. You should setup a 'location' to represent where the game will live (your home arcade, etc)
2) In the game, setup your network connection, do test connection and ensure it gets good values
3) In the Stern Insider Connected Menu option, Scan your ---personal QR code---. The game will eventually say connected and DIRECT YOU TO GOTO THE WEBSITE TO COMPLETE THE REGISTRATION -- This is the step everyone seems to get excited and forget to read
4) In the insider connected WEBPAGE, you will get a notification you have a game trying to be registered, you will acknowledge it and it will assign the game to your location
(in a pro account you can have multiple locations and you can pick which to assign it to)
Then you will be able to use your personal QR code to scan into the game to play.
The QR code for wifi is just a simplified way to setup your wifi connection - you can create a set of wifi settings in the website and it will generate a QR code for that. Then when setting up wifi in a game, you can opt to scan that QR code instead of manually entering the wifi settings.
Everyone forgets the accept the game in the website step and the game itself doesn't give good feedback it hasn't been confirmed.
Quoted from spicekabay:All settings are factory default. My idea was maybe the ball guide has come loose, so I have tightened all screws, fingers crossed...
Your flipper pawl is probably adjusted to rest too high.. hence the end of the travel is too far as well. Or, your coil stops are junked.
any concensus on best solution to the U turn shot on the pro just resulting in immediate drains? It just seems the ball slamming off the side rail after exiting is like 50% death on our example.
Quoted from shaub:I was having that issue and was thinking about installing some sort of 1 way gate that would slow the ball down but before I did that I adjusted that rollover switch to be as sensitive (high) as possible without becoming a ball trap (I also don't think that switch has missed registering a shot since either) and after that, the ball feed became much more consistent for me so I never bothered.
Yeah its the speed that seems to be lethal. Which is annoying as the cleanest shot often is the deadliest :/
Quoted from madamyates:Other than Stern (maybe), anybody know where I can get a replacement plastic for the right ramp?
[quoted image]
just trace it and make it yourself from a piece of lexan from the hardware store. You could use screws and nuts if you don't have a rivet tool.
Quoted from drwicket:Anyone had any issues with insider connected? Mine keeps saying “check qr scanner ribbon cable”. Had no issues with my other 3 games.
That suggests it is talking to the node board, but not the scanner. The scanner is connected to the pcb node board with a flat cable. I’d pull the board off the apron and inspect
Quoted from Georgiapinball:https://www.facebook.com/groups/1023787114975227/?ref=share_group_link
Just started a Mandalorian Pinball group on Facebook if anyone is interested.[quoted image]
facebook is the worst platform out there for anything revolving around 'prior knowledge', searching for knowledge, or organizing any of it. It's purpose in life is to create engagements - not categorize/organize info.
Quoted from PaulCoff:Quick Question:
I’ve got a Mando LE without stern insider connect.
At this time my code is 1.01 and I’m trying for the past 3 days to upgrade the code to the latest 1.30.
Do I need to buy Stern insider connect to upgrade the current code to 1.30? Every time I insert the thumb drive with an unzipped code there is nothing to upgrade and the machine doesn’t register the thumb drive. Any help? [quoted image]
No - you can upgrade via USB.
You must have an issue with the files or drive format. Format as fat32 and keep to 16gig or less partitions. Make sure your files are properly unzipped and at the top level of the drive.
Quoted from PaulCoff:Thanks. I’m using a Mac. Which file should I have a the top of the driver? There are two files,right? I also format the thumb drive before I install code. If been using 32 and 64 size thumb drives. Thx
Mac DiskUtility is a bit of flake when it comes to doing this authoritatively - they keep changing the UI - I prefer using Window's disk utility, but either work if the right settings are used. You want to ensure the disk is formated fat32 and with a Master Boot Record format (MBR). On Mac Can use diskutil to erase and format the drive or cmd line
diskutil list
(to find the device addresses for the drives ex: /dev/disk3 )
sudo diskutil eraseDisk FAT32 MBRFormat /dev/disk3
(change /disk2 to the location of your usb drive as found in the list command)
You want all the stern spk files on the top level of the drive.. not in folders. So extract the zip file on your computer, then copy the contents of the zip (not the folder your zip program probably created to contain the files) to the USB drive.
I suggest formating the drive to 16gigs or less. Easy to do in the GUI, but the command line should be something like this when creating the partition instead of using the whole disk (as the above example)
diskutil partitionDisk /dev/disk3 MBR "MS-DOS FAT32" CODE 16384M free "" 0B
Would create a 'CODE' partition of 16gigs and leave the rest of the disk freespace.
Quoted from PinballHaven:Hey friends, I'm looking for Mando owners who might be headed to expo and interested in helping me play test the mod linked in my prior post. I have it on a premium on route and have a local pro lined up to connect with next week but looking for a few of each to further test and get feedback on the visual aspects. Routed games would be great, or heavy home players.
View of upper playfield on the pro is my main concern, but also the lack of view when the ball goes through the ramp. I got used to it very quickly but casual players may not like it. I'm bringing a handful of the grey ones pictured in my linked previous post so hit me up with a DM if you're coming to expo and interested. Thanks!
FWIW this mod goes OVER the factory plastic, it does not replace it. if you've patched or modified your factory plastic to make due it may not fit. These are PLA in a silver grey, but I can run a few in ABS as a straight replacement if someone has a messed up plastic and wants to really check the durability. That's not a version I plan to move forward with but I would definitely be interested to see how that would go especially in a route setting.
Thanks all-[quoted image][quoted image]
The solution to the problem is just having another piece of lexan cut to replace any factory piece that breaks. That doesn't obscure anything and is a good solution. Your print blocks everything and makes a big hood in the center of the game that could not be unseen.
Just sell a piece of plastic if people don't want to make their own or can't rivet.
Quoted from Mikew492:I recently got the stern mando art blades but have not yet installed them. I was hoping that I wouldn’t have to take out the playfield to install but due to height of the right ramp, I may not have a choice. Anyone else successfully installed art blades without removing the playfield? If so, any tips or tricks?
You don't have to - using a wet method helps.
But taking the Playfield out is way easier than you might think and makes putting on artblades really easy too. Literally just take the balls out, put PF up in upright position and pickup.. or use two people to pickup if you fret.. and lead it against something setting it down on the apron/pegs because Mando has stuff coming out the backboard. Literally the hardest part is just deciding where/how to lean it up. Getting it in and out is easy.
Quoted from bigguybbr:You might want to disconnect the wiring harness too before you try to pull it out
The looms are usually long enough to place the PF near the cabinet without disconnecting them.
Quoted from BrokenChair:What is the correct verbiage for this slingshot adjustment since the posts are smaller the slingshot acts like it’s closed but it’s really not … I am just trying to find right words and vocab for this
"gapping the switches"
You are adjusting the point where the leaf switches engage and disengage.
Quoted from Burke1973:Anyone fill me in on this message? Just saw it and not sure what needs to be done.
[quoted image]
You start with the switch diagram in the manual if you are not sure which switch is #55 - in this case it's the opto for the vertical scoop next to the right ramp. Game maybe believing it's closed all the time. So go into switch test, make sure the coin door interlock is pulled out so the game has power, and try to test that switch position.. and see if the game records it changing at all. Then check the physical connectors from it.. you could have as simple as a connector loose, or an opto could be dead, or something came loose and not aligned.
Quoted from Y3AG3R:Anyone know where i can get this plastic assembly. I help maintain a location and it has broken in half. Without it the ball rockets straight up to the glass from the right ramp. I have reached out to several distributers and they were told it is backordered. Since it is a location i really don't even care about the art on the plastic just need a replacement for it. A custom plastic protector or something would work also. Anyone know where i can get something like that? I would be amazed if i am the only one having this issue.[quoted image]
Just make one with some lexan from home depot/lowes. If you don’t already have the rivet tools a good excuse to get them
You could even get by with screws and nuts if you were in a jam. Just trace the piece and cut with a jig saw or scroll saw
Quoted from JStoltz:Side Note: flynnibus would you be willing to make some of these answers to often-asked questions key posts? We don't have many at the moment but there's some good stuff in here.
Thx - will keep a better eye on it. I hadn't noticed they enabled that for the OP. Will do some housekeeping around it going forward.
Quoted from biglobstah:The hex screw on my Mandalorian pro left flipper post clamp piece is impossible to loosen. I stripped an allen wrench trying to loosen it, and may have stripped the screw head. I figured out how to replace broken linkage piece I needed, but in the future if/when the post bushing cracks I'm gonna need to get this screw loose. Lefty-loosey-righty-tighty amirite?
Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
[quoted image]
Those screw heads are easy to strip. It's best to ensure you use a true hex key (not rounded end) if you are uncertain or don't trust your tool. Make sure you seat the hex tool FULLY as well before cranking on it. Nothing fancy with the bolt (standard direction, etc).
If you've already stripped the bolt head, use clamping vice grips around the side of the head of the bolt and break it free. It should be easy to unbolt with a hex tool once you've broken the initial clamping forces. Just throw away the bolt and replace with a new one from another set of flipper parts.
Quoted from BrokenChair:my mando on location already has 2k plays ;
What kind of things do I need to replace at this interval?
So far I changed the coil stops they were literally falling apart . I change balls every 500 games ; wipe the playfield down once a month or two;
What else is there to look at around 2k plays;
Thank you
Let the game guide you.
Look for loose hardware
Look for split or broke rubber
Clean and make sure the main mechs don’t have anything hanging on a prayer
Check your flipper performance - linkage and eos arms still good.
You don’t have to proactively change anything- just do your cleaning and install whatever wear guards you prefer (shooter lane etc).
Balls every 500 games is excessive. Change them when they are nicked up, not just not perfect.
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Northfield, MN