(Topic ID: 295170)

I like those odds - The Mandalorian Owners Club

By flynnibus

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

33 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #75 Custom apron card option (paid) for Mando Posted by Mr_Tantrum (2 years ago)

Post #170 Steps to access ball guide under right ramp Posted by Lermods (2 years ago)

Post #189 Adding washer under ball guide in U turn to prevent digging into PF Posted by flynnibus (2 years ago)

Post #260 Rulesheet published by Stern Posted by chuckwurt (2 years ago)

Post #325 zip tie hack for the broken ramp diverter Posted by bernieberg (2 years ago)

Post #463 Signs of premiums starting to ship and surprise Randy signature Posted by scootss (2 years ago)

Post #535 Photos of how the left ramp can crack past stock protectors Posted by Clytor (2 years ago)

Post #593 Rubber pad option to help bounce backs on scoop and diverter Posted by NightTrain (2 years ago)

Post #767 Dwight Explains the Top Post intended behavior Posted by Xaqery (2 years ago)

Post #965 Playfield Code Name for Mando - Jennie Posted by KnockerPTSD (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5529 1 year ago

Hey gang, joined the club recently with a routed premium that has just under 800 plays, part of a package deal. This game is by far the worst shooting of the group I bought and I've been putting off working on it because time.........but I finally got all the other things done I needed to on location and was able to bring this game home and can now really dig into it. I have played a few pros and a couple LEs previously, so I kind of know what a decent version feels like. I haven't had time to read all 111 pages of the thread yet, but surprised to not see sticky posts addressing the common problems like in most other threads.

Specifically:

1) the right ramp rejects balls and the plastic above the entrance feels loose although the screws are all there and tight. Seems like a simple place for a good mod (similar to AIQ/BW ramp?) is there anything out there or a good how-to on hacking this ramp to work better? I previously adjusted the ramp on location, loosened bolts and tried to align and tighten it properly.

2) the right scoop doesn't flow well for shots and has a sticking / grinding feel when I push it manually to fully retracted. Sometimes it gets stuck in the up/retracted position and you can hear the coil buzzing when it's not going down (not good lol) and it also has a small buzz even when it’s working properly. (Probably not normal?) I suspect it needs some adjustment which looks like a painful tear down to remove it. Anyone done this before? Any tips on adjusting?

3) The right scoop shot when the scoop is retracted returns to a SDTM pretty frequently, especially when backhanding and as key as this shot is to scoring I know this isn't how most others I have seen in the wild play. Adjustment advice?

4) I'm going to tear out the upper PF this weekend and start there with new coil stops and cleaning, it sounds super hollow. I was kind of surprised to see that the upper PF is always on / lit up / flipping though, is that correct? I would have thought the code would disengage those flippers when a ball isn't up there. YouTube seems to indicate that's normal, just want to verify I don't have a switch issue. I don't remember that on the LE I played, but the sound of the stock coils may be whats drawn my attention to this.

5) Thoughts on flipper and sling power adjustments also welcome…….

Thanks in advance!!

1 week later
#5623 1 year ago

Backhanding left ramp from a stopped ball? Seems like a 5% shot………….what am I missing.

3 weeks later
#5783 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikew492:

Wondering if someone may be able to shed light on something I noticed with my Mando pro. A nut was halfway unscrewed from what looks like the coil for the stop in the back center of the playfield. Is this normal? Doesn’t seem to be affecting anything from what I can tell…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks like it’s the height adjuster for the up post. You want to dial that in to level with the playfield then tighten the nut.

#5785 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikew492:

Yes I think so! The nut is not able to unscrew any further than it already is ( so I’m not concerned about the nut falling off) but the bolt is able to thread closer to the coil stop which I thought may be the remedy, if any is needed.

If your ball is not rolling smoothly through that section it’s probably too low, based on your photos I would check the height and then snug the nut up to the base.

#5788 1 year ago
Quoted from pinopinballmods:

Hi everybody,
I have imagined an other mod to fit with the entry of the foundary. You have just to replace the original plastic by my mod. This mod includes the plastic and the figurine in one package and the entry of the foundary make sense now
Video is here :
You can order here : https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/07151-foundry-armorer[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great!! Nice work-

2 weeks later
#5875 1 year ago
Quoted from taylor34:

You can't see it from the picture, but it angles down just like the real plastic to stop ball rejects. It actually works really well. I painted it like sand and added the speeder to replicate the existing plastic, only better. I think I get less rejects from it than from the original plastic ironically, I think I've gotten zero rejects since I installed it while I was getting some rejects from the original plastic before it broke (could have been because it was weakening though).

I did the same with a 3D printed version, helps with rejects a ton! Gave up on the speeder bike idea but the prototype looked cool just couldn’t keep the bikes in place for location play.
1250C8F4-2490-4DDF-B7EB-6A270692313E (resized).jpeg1250C8F4-2490-4DDF-B7EB-6A270692313E (resized).jpeg3C41E97F-1B26-4A7C-93C8-9FCBFD67E009 (resized).jpeg3C41E97F-1B26-4A7C-93C8-9FCBFD67E009 (resized).jpeg

3 weeks later
#5968 1 year ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

I was quite hesitate to make the change, but just followed what you recommended and can say without a doubt its pure nirvana now for everyone in my family and me. The most critical shot in all of the game, just became 90% of the time back handle-able from the right flipper from the cradle position. Its almost like I can’t miss now! Before I had to really be on my game to get that shot much of the time. For family members back handing, forget it. If everyone made this simple change from the fat star posts to the skinny posts, it changes Mando shooting experience from frustration to absolute joy! So much more fun, can’t recommend it enough.
It only makes sense geometry wise. I’m sure Brian Eddy did not design that shot with a star post in mind, since its so critical to the game to advance. Trying to hit that shot from the left flipper is very dangerous and the reason some people give up on the game imo. Players become too frustrated when they don’t need to be and its not cheating in any way. Sure it was a factory decision to put the star post in after Eddie had already designed the layout. Brain wouldn’t make Mando that frustrating on purpose.
Prior layouts at the time he was designing were all installed with slimmer posts on the slings. Just fix the geometry of the right flipper shot by reducing the blatant right sling lower post obstacle and wow, night and day experience. The shot is just too close to be otherwise and only becomes a pros timing shot of letting it roll down the flipper, then shooting and even then, its quite tough. If those that wrote off Mando tried this, they’d be back in for sure, imo. Thanks for the suggestion JSholtz! (I did add a small nylon washer under each of the slimmer posts.)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Key here is everybody enjoys the game more. It’s a replaceable part with many varieties to suit your own taste and not a layout change.

#5998 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

I did the same with a 3D printed version, helps with rejects a ton! Gave up on the speeder bike idea but the prototype looked cool just couldn’t keep the bikes in place for location play.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey friends, I'm looking for Mando owners who might be headed to expo and interested in helping me play test the mod linked in my prior post. I have it on a premium on route and have a local pro lined up to connect with next week but looking for a few of each to further test and get feedback on the visual aspects. Routed games would be great, or heavy home players.

View of upper playfield on the pro is my main concern, but also the lack of view when the ball goes through the ramp. I got used to it very quickly but casual players may not like it. I'm bringing a handful of the grey ones pictured in my linked previous post so hit me up with a DM if you're coming to expo and interested. Thanks!

FWIW this mod goes OVER the factory plastic, it does not replace it. if you've patched or modified your factory plastic to make due it may not fit. These are PLA in a silver grey, but I can run a few in ABS as a straight replacement if someone has a messed up plastic and wants to really check the durability. That's not a version I plan to move forward with but I would definitely be interested to see how that would go especially in a route setting.

Thanks all-

2A522FFA-8B95-4332-8FC6-28F528D1D078 (resized).jpeg2A522FFA-8B95-4332-8FC6-28F528D1D078 (resized).jpegB3FD78DC-236A-4B3C-9E94-7C96AD9780A2 (resized).jpegB3FD78DC-236A-4B3C-9E94-7C96AD9780A2 (resized).jpeg
#6002 1 year ago
Quoted from Nds777:

What does it do?

It helps prevent the rejects that are frequent from the right ramp, takes the flex out of the plastic. My prior post linked above had some interest from others so I'm trying to move this forward for the benefit of the community.

Quoted from flynnibus:

[quoted image]
The solution to the problem is just having another piece of lexan cut to replace any factory piece that breaks. That doesn't obscure anything and is a good solution. Your print blocks everything and makes a big hood in the center of the game that could not be unseen.
Just sell a piece of plastic if people don't want to make their own or can't rivet.

I was personally frustrated with the the rejects, I should have stated that here since the prior discussion was awhile back. It does give the added benefit of protecting the plastic, but that's not the main objective. Some would argue if you're watching the ball go through the ramp you're not watching the right things anyway, but to each their own. I am considering other alternate solutions that would be a better visual as well as prevent the rejects and reinforce the plastic, but this is where the project stands for now.

1 month later
#6445 1 year ago
Quoted from math08:

Someone stole my Beskar!!!
Have the topper installed. The Beskar display was up to 2500. I understood that this was supposed to be a cumulative number working towards 20,000. I came back home tonight, turned on the machine and I have no Beskar. If I misunderstood the Beskar, please let me know, otherwise this seems to be a code problem that Dwight needs to take care of.

Logged in?

1 month later
#6815 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Got a very weird problem on my Pro. The 'Mini PF Enter Opto' (keep in mind I have a Pro, but Stern still labeled it as if there's a mini PF) is doing something strange.
First off, the optos themselves appear to be OK. I can block/unblock the beam and I can see the Rx opto indicator LED indicating it's sensing an object. I can also measure the RX opto output wire (yellow) and it does switch between 0 an ~4.12V. All appears to be in order.
Here's the weird thing: I can go into the switch test and it registers working. But the catch is it might just be once, sometimes more (I think I got to around 6 times once) then it just stops registering. Opto light still blinks, and the 0V or 4.12V output is switching. I'm literally not touching anything...it just stops indicating a switch changed state in the switch test menu.
I'll wiggle connector C12 on Node 9 next just for the heck of it.
I'm an electrical engineer, so I know my way around the electronics and have test equipment...but this is odd.
Apologies if this has been seen before, I searched this thread but didn't find anything. Plus I just got the pin, so everything is new for me.
Could it be a memory card issue? I just loaded the latest code (1.41.0 Pro).

Reloading software is always a decent first step with a new SD card. Presuming no screws are loose physically and the line if sight is open / clear it sounds like a bad opto. You can swap those around to check with another similar opto if you're comfortable with that as an electrical engineer, if you do that and prove it's the board it's usually pretty quick to get one from stern via your distributor.

1 week later
#6875 1 year ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

It would be better if the plastic was formed properly over the ramp instead of stress inducing rivets. Or better yet, if it was a metal piece like a habitrail type design. If someone decided to make this...

I have a 3D printed one that goes on top of the existing plastic and supports it fully, look back a few months in this thread. Wasn’t much interest at the time, my premium on route shoots great with it but it is visually restrictive.

1 week later
#6914 1 year ago
Quoted from BrokenChair:

Made by the same guy as medieval madness I believe ;
Mando is all short shots fantastic game !

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/brian-eddy

1 month later
#7038 1 year ago
Quoted from BrokenChair:

I thought the diverter is supposed to freely spin around ? If it’s the one I’m thinking of when you hit the giant middle ramp to the top is it that piece that spins?

If your diverter (top of center ramp feeding mini PF) is spinning it's loose or broken.

4 weeks later
#7164 1 year ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

It would be easy to modify that STL to take a small slice out of that side, but on mine it doesn't come anywhere close to making contact

Or just Dremel off the offending edge if it’s causing any issues.

2 months later
#7389 10 months ago

I’m having a strange issue with my diverter on the premium, the coil will pop it down in single coil test but won’t move in the game specific test menu. Diverter fails to work in game, all optos seem to be fine. Anyone seen this strange behavior? Probably willload a fresh SD card next, appreciate any input here.

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