Quoted from MaxIsDead:Just throw the Cliffy’s on, its cheap insurance
Yes good call.
Quoted from MaxIsDead:Just throw the Cliffy’s on, its cheap insurance
Yes good call.
Quoted from madamyates:That didn’t work. I’m going to replace the switch entirely. Also, the right ramp opto isn’t triggering in game or in test. Haven’t examined it in detail yet.
Yep, when in doubt, replace the switch. The
opto dying at the same time is a strange coincidence. If replacing the switches doesn’t fix it, try re-seating the molex connectors in case there’s fretting.
Quoted from Xelz:Yep, when in doubt, replace the switch. The
opto dying at the same time is a strange coincidence. If replacing the switches doesn’t fix it, try re-seating the molex connectors in case there’s fretting.
Replaced the switch and that’s good now. However, the optos aren’t registering and even when I plugged it brand new ones, nothing.
Quoted from MaxIsDead:Just throw the Cliffy’s on, its cheap insurance
There's a 4 week wait for his though (
Quoted from ArmyChris:There's a 4 week wait for his though (
Get your order in ASAP and be prepared to wait!
Quoted from madamyates:Replaced the switch and that’s good now. However, the optos aren’t registering and even when I plugged it brand new ones, nothing.
Have you confirmed that the optos red light is on and it goes out when you block the light from the transmitter. If that is working properly, then the problem is most likely downstream somewhere. A stab in the dark since it is unlikely a new opto is defective.
I had a problem on that right ramp where the opto would only register sometimes. But the times it wouldn't register, the red light would stay on even when the beam was blocked. Replacing the opto fixed it as it was clearly an opto problem.
Quoted from Insanity199:Have you confirmed that the optos red light is on and it goes out when you block the light from the transmitter. If that is working properly, then the problem is most likely downstream somewhere. A stab in the dark since it is unlikely a new opto is defective.
I had a problem on that right ramp where the opto would only register sometimes. But the times it wouldn't register, the red light would stay on even when the beam was blocked. Replacing the opto fixed it as it was clearly an opto problem.
Unfortunately, the red light isn't on at all. I am going to mess with it more today.
Quoted from madamyates:Replaced the switch and that’s good now. However, the optos aren’t registering and even when I plugged it brand new ones, nothing.
Yikes. That sounds like a bad wire, connector, or board. If re-seating all the connectors from the optos to the board doesn’t fix it, then check with Stern’s support. Also, check to see if any wires accidentally got crimped.
Quoted from madamyates:Unfortunately, the red light isn't on at all. I am going to mess with it more today.
If that is the case, sounds like the opto pair isn't getting power (or is truly another bad opto). That red light should always be on if the pair are pointed directly at each other. I can't remember if the connectors are the same, but are you sure that the opto transmitter is plugged into the transmitting connector and the receiver is plugged into the receiver connector? I saw at least one post where the connectors were labeled improperly.
Just throwing you some ideas as I have gone through this before.
Quoted from Insanity199:If that is the case, sounds like the opto pair isn't getting power (or is truly another bad opto). That red light should always be on if the pair are pointed directly at each other. I can't remember if the connectors are the same, but are you sure that the opto transmitter is plugged into the transmitting connector and the receiver is plugged into the receiver connector? I saw at least one post where the connectors were labeled improperly.
Just throwing you some ideas as I have gone through this before.
I feel silly but I was replacing the left opto when it was the right opto that was bad. Everything works now.
Quoted from OriginalFresh:Just installed the Flamin Frames from DugFreez of Speaker Light Kits. Jaw dropping when I “fired” it up! I forgot to order the acrylic backing to spread the lights out more thoroughly but it’s still great lighting.
[quoted image]
How long did you have to wait to get the light kit?
Noticed something yesterday.
When I turn the game on and it goes in attract mode everything works fine.
When I open the coin door, obviously the lights go out.
But as soon as I close the coin door everything goes on again except for all the GI on the left side.
As soon as I start a game it pops back on and everything works fine.
So it is not a big thing, just strange.
Never once have I seen the left side GI acting strange while playing the game.
I’ve noticed two different types of lightshows in attract mode.
There is one where the child letters are blinking from left to right and there is one where the blinking of these letters is in a more random manner.
The issue I’m describing happens only during that first light show where the child letters move from left to right in attract. If I open and close the coin door during the second light show, the left GI does turn on normally.
I like to confirm if something is wrong with one of my LE’s node boards or that all the games share this behavior.
Latest software installed.
Thanks for the feedback!
Quoted from acedanger:I think it's a code bug same here... first time it happened I freaked out :O
Quoted from livetowin:I have the same issue as above. Mine is a nib from the Feb run.
Ok, thanks!
This was what I wanted to hear.
It will probably be fixed in an upcoming update.
Having the same issue with the left lights and coin door too. Freaked me out then realized it’s a bug lol
I had installed the foundry mod around the same time which is straight forward but definitely had me stumped checking everything for 30 mins or so.
Quoted from Beez:JOINING THE CLUB !!!
Ordered a NIB Premium - shipping tomorrow )
Also, ordered Cliffy's & a full playfield protector
Congrats!
It's wild/cool/refreshing to hear about people ordering a machine and just having to wait for it to ship, rather than having to wait 8 months for it to be made.
Don't want this to come off as complaining, but do others find this game as frustrating as I do? Miss a shot and it's in outlane, hit the slings and it's in the outlane. Just when I get something going, it's in the outlane. I'm on factory outlane settings and 7 degree pitch, hesitate to move the outlane posts in. It's so brutal, to the point of wanting to sell it, which I really don't want to do, but I just may do it. Just played like 10 games, high was 187, but most were like 10-40 mil. My high i think is around 400 mil. When you do have that one great game, it's really satisfying and it does have that push the start button one more time feel to it, but man is it a frustrating game. It's as if the geometry is off, forcing the ball to the outlane more than any other game I've played. Likely because the shots are just too close.
One question, what are the ways to collect Beskar? TILT forum rules say hunter, scope and mystery...anything else?
Quoted from Lermods:Don't want this to come off as complaining, but do others find this game as frustrating as I do? Miss a shot and it's in outlane, hit the slings and it's in the outlane. Just when I get something going, it's in the outlane. I'm on factory outlane settings and 7 degree pitch, hesitate to move the outlane posts in. It's so brutal, to the point of wanting to sell it, which I really don't want to do, but I just may do it. Just played like 10 games, high was 187, but most were like 10-40 mil. My high i think is around 400 mil. When you do have that one great game, it's really satisfying and it does have that push the start button one more time feel to it, but man is it a frustrating game. It's as if the geometry is off, forcing the ball to the outlane more than any other game I've played. Likely because the shots are just too close.
One question, what are the ways to collect Beskar? TILT forum rules say hunter, scope and mystery...anything else?
Quoted from Lermods:Don't want this to come off as complaining, but do others find this game as frustrating as I do? Miss a shot and it's in outlane, hit the slings and it's in the outlane. Just when I get something going, it's in the outlane. I'm on factory outlane settings and 7 degree pitch, hesitate to move the outlane posts in. It's so brutal, to the point of wanting to sell it, which I really don't want to do, but I just may do it. Just played like 10 games, high was 187, but most were like 10-40 mil. My high i think is around 400 mil. When you do have that one great game, it's really satisfying and it does have that push the start button one more time feel to it, but man is it a frustrating game. It's as if the geometry is off, forcing the ball to the outlane more than any other game I've played. Likely because the shots are just too close.
One question, what are the ways to collect Beskar? TILT forum rules say hunter, scope and mystery...anything else?
I've only broken 500M a handful of times in a lot of plays. It's frustrating, but I like that it is-- balances out the long-playing BM66 sitting next to it, and keeps me interested in playing it. I'll admit that sometimes that boils down to a love/hate relationship, but I think at the end of the day the difficulty gives it staying power for me. Having it has definitely made me a more accurate shooter and a better player.
Quoted from Lermods:Don't want this to come off as complaining, but do others find this game as frustrating as I do? Miss a shot and it's in outlane, hit the slings and it's in the outlane. Just when I get something going, it's in the outlane. I'm on factory outlane settings and 7 degree pitch, hesitate to move the outlane posts in. It's so brutal, to the point of wanting to sell it, which I really don't want to do, but I just may do it. Just played like 10 games, high was 187, but most were like 10-40 mil. My high i think is around 400 mil. When you do have that one great game, it's really satisfying and it does have that push the start button one more time feel to it, but man is it a frustrating game. It's as if the geometry is off, forcing the ball to the outlane more than any other game I've played. Likely because the shots are just too close.
One question, what are the ways to collect Beskar? TILT forum rules say hunter, scope and mystery...anything else?
Mandalorian is really fast and if you play it that way, you drain fast. It's fun, but very difficult as you said. I have a lot more success since I try to control ball more and play backhand everything that's possible. The vuk is safe with backhand, right ramp and horseshoe as well. Razor crest is easy from any side. Even left ramp is easier and more safe with backhand left flipper. Typical combo is backhand right ramp, razor crest, stop ball with left flipper, backhand vuk or left ramp. It's hard enough if you need the orbits, scope mode is very dangerous as well.
You are a mandalorian and get bescar mainly from hunter. You need hunter to re start Multiball modes without draining. Very dangerous, would not play just for bescar if you want good scores. If you can buy something, take random and use what u get... And well, if you can buy extra ball... I always need it
Ok, so changed the pitch to 6.5, I which is the lowest I could get it, back legs all the way down. I was actually at 7.3 before. First two games were better, not quite as furious. Third game...bam! Pitch really does matter for this game..most of my games are set between 7-7.5. not going to touch the outlanes for now. Thanks for the advice.
Quoted from Lermods:Don't want this to come off as complaining, but do others find this game as frustrating as I do? Miss a shot and it's in outlane, hit the slings and it's in the outlane. Just when I get something going, it's in the outlane. I'm on factory outlane settings and 7 degree pitch, hesitate to move the outlane posts in. It's so brutal, to the point of wanting to sell it, which I really don't want to do, but I just may do it. Just played like 10 games, high was 187, but most were like 10-40 mil. My high i think is around 400 mil. When you do have that one great game, it's really satisfying and it does have that push the start button one more time feel to it, but man is it a frustrating game. It's as if the geometry is off, forcing the ball to the outlane more than any other game I've played. Likely because the shots are just too close.
One question, what are the ways to collect Beskar? TILT forum rules say hunter, scope and mystery...anything else?
Hunter is the quickest and most consistent way to earn Beskar but as you read on TILT forum the child(mystery)and scope will also give you a decent chunk of Beskar…but at random. If you really want to maximize your Beskar during a Hunter mode try hitting the ramp that’s flashing orange(opposite side of the lite orbit shot)to build up your Beskar before you finish Hunter. I love Hunter because it lets you decide to be greedy or safe and if you choose to be greedy it will help you to buy cool stuff in the foundry. If you just want to get a high score I suggest working on getting all multipliers running at the same time…then try to start jetpack multiball(my favorite or any multiball)and try to maximize you super jackpot(50 mil is max for jetpack)when you drain down to one ball shoot that super jackpot… but don’t forget to use your flamethrower to add to your multiplier. This shot and build up of the shot is one of the best in pinball IMHO…it also feels really rewarding to collect.
82BC03F9-7C48-432E-B252-EB9A7D96ABD5.jpegQuoted from TrekTobbyGermany:Mandalorian is really fast and if you play it that way, you drain fast. It's fun, but very difficult as you said. I have a lot more success since I try to control ball more and play backhand everything that's possible. The vuk is safe with backhand, right ramp and horseshoe as well. Razor crest is easy from any side. Even left ramp is easier and more safe with backhand left flipper. Typical combo is backhand right ramp, razor crest, stop ball with left flipper, backhand vuk or left ramp. It's hard enough if you need the orbits, scope mode is very dangerous as well.
You are a mandalorian and get bescar mainly from hunter. You need hunter to re start Multiball modes without draining. Very dangerous, would not play just for bescar if you want good scores. If you can buy something, take random and use what u get... And well, if you can buy extra ball... I always need it
I tend to take the whistling birds smart bomb as my first choice.
Quoted from Wildbill327:Hunter is the quickest and most consistent way to earn Beskar but as you read on TILT forum the child(mystery)and scope will also give you a decent chunk of Beskar…but at random. If you really want to maximize your Beskar during a Hunter mode try hitting the ramp that’s flashing orange(opposite side of the lite orbit shot)to build up your Beskar before you finish Hunter. I love Hunter because it lets you decide to be greedy or safe and if you choose to be greedy it will help you to buy cool stuff in the foundry. If you just want to get a high score I suggest working on getting all multipliers running at the same time…then try to start jetpack multiball(my favorite or any multiball)and try to maximize you super jackpot(50 mil is max for jetpack)when you drain down to one ball shoot that super jackpot… but don’t forget to use your flamethrower to add to your multiplier. This shot and build up of the shot is one of the best in pinball IMHO…it also feels really rewarding to collect.[quoted image]
Ok, so I see the multiplier number in the upper right of the screen, can you explain what it means? I rarely look up when playing.
Quoted from Lermods:Ok, so I see the multiplier number in the upper right of the screen, can you explain what it means? I rarely look up when playing.
That’s the timer for your multiplier which you can keep adding time by hitting the Boba Fett targets.
Quoted from Lermods:Ok, so I see the multiplier number in the upper right of the screen, can you explain what it means? I rarely look up when playing.
To start your multipliers you will need to complete Hunter…complete a scope shot…and hitting the Boba Fett targets which can be started at anytime but Hunter and Scope get locked out during multiball and modes.
I always try to start Hunter and/or Scope then start a mode and bring in a multiball and Boba Fett last since it’s the only time me you can start during modes and multiballs.
Quoted from Lermods:I tend to take the whistling birds smart bomb as my first choice.
Try grabbing armor for your first choice at the foundry since it gives you extra time on all you ball saves and it will last the whole game. I usually go for that first then the helmet(add-a-ball during multiball)and then I work on my extra ball. That’s what’s cool about the foundry so many different ways to spend that hard earned Beskar.
I might try lowering my pitch, too. I also find the shots tight, and it’s the hungry outlanes that really get me.
I’ll admit, though, that I kind of like the brutality of Mando, and I’ve learned better ball control thanks to it. To me it feels like a shootout: pause with the ball cradled, take a shot, live through a hectic adrenaline rush until I can regain control, then catch my breath with the ball cradled, proceed to take my next shot. Rinse, repeat.
Quoted from Lermods:Don't want this to come off as complaining, but do others find this game as frustrating as I do? Miss a shot and it's in outlane, hit the slings and it's in the outlane. Just when I get something going, it's in the outlane. I'm on factory outlane settings and 7 degree pitch, hesitate to move the outlane posts in. It's so brutal, to the point of wanting to sell it, which I really don't want to do, but I just may do it. Just played like 10 games, high was 187, but most were like 10-40 mil. My high i think is around 400 mil. When you do have that one great game, it's really satisfying and it does have that push the start button one more time feel to it, but man is it a frustrating game. It's as if the geometry is off, forcing the ball to the outlane more than any other game I've played. Likely because the shots are just too close.
I completely agree. Most games...the more I play it...the more I like it. With mando...the more I play the more frustrated I get.
I'll give the 6.5 degree pitch a shot...
Honestly I’ve felt like this game is a clunk fest. I’m not talking missed shots, but made shots that don’t flow well or rattle around and reject for no reason. The main cuplprit was the left orbit coming off the razor crest shot. A lot of people reported it was bouncing off the plastic tab there and wrecking the glow. So I finally did the plastic trim mod on the left orbit plastic. Amazing difference!! I also moved that ball guide out a bit so it doesn’t clip the slingshot and get all crazy. My game finally flows!!! Thanks to all who posted about it. I’m excited to play!
Can someone point me out to some good flipper rubbers to replace the factory sterns? Never really bought rubbers before, it just bounces around too much, no good ball control
Thanks
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Can someone point me out to some good flipper rubbers to replace the factory sterns? Never really bought rubbers before, it just bounces around too much, no good ball control
Thanks
Pretty much every type of rubber or silicone will be more bouncy than stock stern rubber.
Try super bands.
Hunter and scope are the 2 most crucial elements to blow the game up. Multipliers, beskar, and equipment.
I got my premium about 2 weeks ago and a couple of times I've got a ball stuck behind the upper playing field. But this has only happened during a multi-ball.
Behind the upper playing field, along the outer orbit, there is a plastic piece to make sure the ball doesn't get stuck under the upper playing field. But I've had a ball get stuck there and I can shake the crap out of the machine but it doesn't let go. The only way to get it out is to take the glass off.
It seems like the ball is stuck on a screw or something that is holding the plastic. But I can't see what is going on back there.
Has anyone else had this problem, and more importantly, has anyone fixed this problem?
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Can someone point me out to some good flipper rubbers to replace the factory sterns? Never really bought rubbers before, it just bounces around too much, no good ball control
Thanks
Perfect play feel great! Plus you don’t have to use a crowbar to force them over the flipper like you do superbands
Quoted from chuckwurt:Pretty much every type of rubber or silicone will be more bouncy than stock stern rubber.
Try super bands.
I wouldn’t recommend super bands on this one Erik. My Mando had super bands on it when I got it and played horribly!! Way to bouncy, as tight and close everything is on Mando, especially during multi ball, it was almost unplayable. I replaced them with my normal go-to Titans and it was much better.
Super bands are the only ones I’ve ever used that are less bouncy than everything else. Hmm. Maybe they play different on modern sterns I guess.
There’s a thread somewhere that explains the bounciness of different colored real rubber. Like red is the most bouncy and maybe purple or green is least? Cannot remember.
Titan also has those low bounce flipper rings.
Quoted from Lermods:Ok, so changed the pitch to 6.5, I which is the lowest I could get it, back legs all the way down. I was actually at 7.3 before. First two games were better, not quite as furious. Third game...bam! Pitch really does matter for this game..most of my games are set between 7-7.5. not going to touch the outlanes for now. Thanks for the advice.
[quoted image]
Mine is at 7.1* and I have the same experience as you: It's just brutal. I bought it off a show and it was at 6.5 there and it played a lot more forgiving. I'm almost there to bring it down to 6.5* as well. The reason why I haven't yet is, that usually at location they are that steep and I wanted to get better at it, but I'm at a point where I'm just frustrating myself.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Can someone point me out to some good flipper rubbers to replace the factory sterns? Never really bought rubbers before, it just bounces around too much, no good ball control
Thanks
I’ve found the low bounce Titan silicone rings to be fairly close to new stock rubber. Still a tad bouncier, though.
Quoted from T3quila:Mine is at 7.1* and I have the same experience as you: It's just brutal. I bought it off a show and it was at 6.5 there and it played a lot more forgiving. I'm almost there to bring it down to 6.5* as well. The reason why I haven't yet is, that usually at location they are that steep and I wanted to get better at it, but I'm at a point where I'm just frustrating myself.
definitely do it, the game is still not that easy, mainly because shots are not forgiving if you miss, but it's a lot less crazy. I have a pro and the upper playfield is pretty nice now with the shallower pitch. I literally was about to take pics to post a FS ad, but now I am much happier with it.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Super bands are the only ones I’ve ever used that are less bouncy than everything else. Hmm. Maybe they play different on modern sterns I guess.
There’s a thread somewhere that explains the bounciness of different colored real rubber. Like red is the most bouncy and maybe purple or green is least? Cannot remember.
Titan also has those low bounce flipper rings.
Yeah, I actually like super bands as a whole on classic Ballys. The clear super bands installed on my Mando were like trampolines.....
Quoted from chuckwurt:Pretty much every type of rubber or silicone will be more bouncy than stock stern rubber.
Try super bands.
Perfect Play silicone.
Quoted from Schaitas:Would you guys add Pinstadium to a Mando LE?
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