(Topic ID: 202128)

Thinking of buying a Wizard of Oz

By VintageSlots

6 years ago


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  • 141 posts
  • 66 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Nepi23
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#24 6 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Light boards, light boards, light boards. If they're the unbuffered 5v or 7v ones you're looking at $500-700+ to replace them all out of warranty, and you WILL eventually have to replace them all.

I don’t agree. I haven’t had an issue with my 7v boards since the day I got it. That’s YEARS (3 or 4?) without a problem. Sure, maybe way down the road I might have to replace some, but I can say that about my TH 2.0 light boards too.

Quoted from libtech:

I hear avoid the green LE, go for a ruby red or standard, the LEs had lots of playfield wear (the whole sticker cover up stuff) and lightboards too of course on them as well.

False. There was like two or three early, heavily routed machines with specifically Balder pf problems. Most early games used Mirco pfs and they are solid.

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

Frank at JJP told me if you don not get the 75th WOZ RR 2.0 with a new power supply and monitor and totally redesigned chip for the light boards I was making a mistake that the 2.0 is the way to go. Good luck I hope that helps .

Of course. They want to sell you a new game!

#37 6 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

I bought the WOZ RR edition in West Virginia, picking it up in a couple of weeks. I believe it has the 7.5 boards. Build date is 10/01/14

I believe all RRWOZ have 7.5v boards or the new 2.0 system. The last ~25% of the ECLE version has 7.5v boards too. I believe that date is +/- a month of my ECLE (which was one of the last off the line).

Quoted from PinMonk:

Once they go, they all start going. I was rock solid for a couple years, then almost a year of replacing boards as one after another failed. Even after replacing everything, 5 of the replacement 7v buffered are out now. They do fail, and once it starts, it's a hassle.

That’s a little scary, but I’m not too worried. I’ll be worried when more than one fails. I’m not sure why they would all start going at once...doesn’t make sense unless the environment they are in at the time is the cause (I’ve heard dry winter is bad due to more static possibilities).

#39 6 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I’m not sure what the exact cutoff was but I’ve got the 7.5 boards and production date was late Oct of 2013
They changed boards during that month

Ah, yeah mine is 2013 too I think.

Edit: Nope, mine is end of Aug 2014.

#93 6 years ago
Quoted from RobKnapp:

(Pimp77) you always down vote any post I make regarding being mindful of purchasing a older WOZ . But you never are specific or explain why you down vote. I have done my research on everything WOZ . I am just posting what I have learned and why I personally want an updated 2.0 WOZ . Older WOZ machine can not even run the new 6.5 code. It causes lockup my friend owns a 2013 and he has to run an older version of code . Will we ever get to install a lockup-free version of WoZ 6.xx on the original run machines that have problems with the newer Linux kernel introduced in all 6.xx versions (5.xx and below were fine)? .

I know 3 people with ECLE WOZs (4 counting myself) and none of us have light board issues. All of us are running the latest code with no lockups or issues. The only issue I’ve had with the game is a bad LED strip under the wizard head and that was a 5 minute replacement. The downvote means I disagree with your statement to avoid the “early” games. Later run ECLEWOZs are solid. There were many RRWOZs made before mine in fact. I know because it pissed me off at the time. JJP had issues with their direct print cabinet maker that delayed a big chunk of ECLEs, so they cranked out Ruby Reds instead. In any case, maybe the REALLY early ones have some issues (Bader pfs, lower rez monitors, light boards, apparently issues loading the latest rev software(?), etc) but not that many I’d venture to guess. How early is your game?

1 week later
#111 6 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I picked up a RR WOZ today, manufactured 12/2015. Its working fine, but I wish I had found this thread before the purchase. I was already talking to a distributor about a NIB purchase (Black Friday) when one popped up for sale near by so I jumped on it to save $1300 plus a few mods. I sure hope I didn’t buy myself a bunch of problems. If I end up having to buy an upgrade kit for $700, I surely would have bought new.

You’ll most likely be perfectly fine. Don’t let the “sky is falling” crowd get to you.

#121 6 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Ruby Red has newer a newer PC board and probably the newest light boards before the 2.0 system. I would say 80% or more of the light problems I've seen/heard of are ECLE early run games, and ALL the lockup problems are on the ECLEs.
You're fine with a RR, most likely.

Again...not totally true. I’ll repeat: MANY RRWOZ machines were built before all the ECLE games were built. As long as you don’t have a game that has the lower resolution vga output or a Bader pf then you’re good.

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