(Topic ID: 221301)

Thinking about stenciling your pin?? Read this.....it might help

By timab2000

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by freddy
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#46 5 years ago
Quoted from timab2000:

No I do not have an airbrush. But I am working on figuring it out. Way too heavy on the coats of paint and not being patient enough on letting it dry somewhat, before peeling.
Practice make perfect I guess. Hopefully I'll do better on the next pin I find.

Practice makes perfect and all that jazz. I don'r know what you know and what you don't know so I will speak as if you know very little or nothing at all.

Painting is all with the wrist. The is a right way to swing a gun/can and a wrong way to swing.

The wrong way is to grab your gun or can and lock your wrist into a hard position. Then you fan the gun like it is on a string and you get uneven coats of paint because as you swing the gun away from your front and over to the side you wind up with heavy paint in front of your body where the gun is closest to your work. As you fan from side to side the paint will have lighter coats of paint because the gun alternates from being close to your work to being far from your work.

The correct way to swing a gun is to unlock your wrist and let it flex as you move from side to side with your body. You always need to think in terms of keeping your gun parallel to your work as you move from side to side. If you are holding your gun six inches away from work, flex your wrist as you move from one side of your work to the other, keeping that six inch (or 8 inch or whatever) distance all the way from end to end.

Fanning your gun is the easiest mistake to make. Flex your wrist and work for parallel action.

May be you already know this. Maybe you don't.

Pretend you are working for the man where you have to be fast and you have to be good. Paint is expensive so you do not want to use too much and the boss will only tolerate occasional touch ups.

Some of you talk about working on the horizontal. I understand that. But if you can find some cheap paint to waste, try painting a scrap vertical surface so you can get the feel of how much paint to lay down before you starting having problems with runs, sags, and curtains. Go for the gusto and try to make it run or sag. It will be the best teacher that you will ever have. There is no feeling of "aw, shit" like when you make that last pass and all you can do is stand there as your paint starts moving for the floor.

1 year later
#79 3 years ago
Quoted from belairjoe:

first time i post on this subject anytime on pinside as everyone will use what they find best for them and what materials they can find easy....i have been doing stencil work for more than 40 years...cars,bikes,custom signs and for the last 7 years or so pinball and arcade cabinets..i use lacquer paint only..this was the paint that was used on most pinball cabinets and arcade games thru the early 80's..there is a reason for this..lacquer paint dries within minutes and you will not get raised stencil lines or choppy edges..i understand most of you will never get the chance to try lacquer paint but this was the paint used when your cabinet left the factory so if you want a true restoration this is the paint to use..no real waiting time when shooting multiple stencils and colors..i have always made my own stencils from cereal boxes..yes im sure many here will laugh hard at this but this type of heavy card stock is easy to work with.i was taught this way of painting and stencil making from a long dead custom car painter in the middle 70's..i helped a few pinsiders paint their cabinets but they insisted i use enamel based paint and i was happy to help as thats what they wanted..best advice is to practice,practice and then practice some more until you see and feel how the paint you are using reacts..no matter what you paint you use dont be critical of your own work.more than likely you are the only one to notice your flaws and most people never see the mistakes,only the painter see them..good luck

Are you shooting acrylic lacquer? Or are you talking about the old nitrocellulose lacquer? If you are talking nitrocellulose lacquer, where are you finding it?

#80 3 years ago
Quoted from DougZ3:

When you are painting the stencils - it sounds like it would be good to lay the cabinet flat and do a single side (face up) at a time. Is that what most/some of you are doing?
If you are trying to remove them while the edge is still wet, it sounds like that would be easiest. I would also think that runs would be minimal also as gravity would not be your enemy.

I prefer to shoot on the vertical surface. You can do single sides as you speak of but I would suggest you roll the cabinet back over and pull your stencil when it is on a vertical plane so you don't drop peeled stencil material into your fresh paint.

#87 3 years ago

As mentioned, practice makes perfect. I learned to paint by painting model cars. I learned to paint by applying way too much paint and watching it turn into runs that ruined my paint job.

I learned to paint by doing a small amount of reading on the proper way to lay down a coat of paint. I learned by making a few mistakes.

The Walmarts in my town carry some cheap rattle can paint for something like 95 cents per can. Go buy some cheap paint, some some plywood, a piece of sheet metal, an old car door, and old refrigerator door, and have at it. It will cost you a few bucks but everything we do has the price of tuition involved.

Google up " proper spray can painting". Or painting tips and techniques.

Get some cans of cheap spray paint and push it to the limits.

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