(Topic ID: 221301)

Thinking about stenciling your pin?? Read this.....it might help

By timab2000

5 years ago


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#2 5 years ago

Great post. If you do not mind, I'd like to add a couple of recipes since I just finished the repaint of a Mata Hari cabinet, using Pimball Pimp stencils.

1) Go slowly when removing the backing paper holding the stencils. As Timab very justly indicated, it is easy to forget a small detail and ruin the stencils, later on trying to fix it. I remove the backing paper very slowly, a couple of inches at a time, checking continually for pieces of stencils that could have been left stuck to the backing.

2) Paint a very light coat around your stencils. Paint horizontally as much as possible. Most of the second and third colors on classic pinballs, are dark colors and do not need a thick coat to show up. Original cabinets were painted with just a haze of spraying on less than airtight metallic stencils. The lighter the coat, the easier it will be to remove the stencils. Do not wait for the paint to dry before removing the stencils.

3) Have cutter (X-acto), scissors in your pockets, ready to be grabbed and trash-can near by. I also use a fine pliers to pick up pieces of stencils where my fingers could not fit or risk making a mess. After removing partially the stencils, make a ball with them and keep them in the palm of your hand. When panicking, just cut the stencils, and trash the piece that has been removed. Breathe and go back with your pliers, fishing for more stencils to remove.

4) When a line is not perfect or a piece of paint falls back on the edge, I use a cotton swab with Naphta. Place it very carefully near the blob. The cotton fibers will gently suck away the extra paint, leaving a perfect delineation. I saved my Mata Hari cabinet many times with that little trick, especially around the hair and face.

Pimball Pimp stencils are first class but require a lot of care to be used with success.

Yves

1 year later
#82 3 years ago
Quoted from belairjoe:

both..but i only have black and white in nitrocellulose lacquer. from the old days...you can not buy lacquer paint legally in the state of cal. but that is were they still make it and sell it from..look up autocolorlibrary on the net..they sell acrylic lacquer paint for cars and i have been getting it from them for years..they also sell a brand called restoration supply that is very good...i also discovered that if i am painting say a 1976 chicago coin shoot out arcade game,i can find the colors and paint they used by looking at the color charts of the paint used on most cars. from that year...mostly gm but other ford colors used on arcade games..no question the quality of todays lacquer paint is not as good as the old days but for arcade and pin cabinets its fine.to answer other question posted i have not had runs ever on cabinets as paint flashes fast enough to avoid this..i should also mention when doing stencil work i learned to fan the paint on in quick strokes instead of shooting one or two direct coats..sometimes 4 fan coats moving the gun very quickly..i remove stencils after maybe 2 minutes or so..i leave a bit of over spray same as the factory did....i read many threads on pinside on making stencils and how to paint etc..do not believe that there is only one way to correctly re-paint and stencil a cabinet..its just not so...new machines to make stencils,newer better paint.and a vast wealth of knowledge on how some people do it..it depends on what you are looking for in the end result..i like the factory look..that means not perfect with some over spray etc..but as example there is photos on pinside of game i helped a good friend paint.when finished i thought it looked fantastic as he made his own stencils and i just did the easy part and shot the color..he hated the over spray to the point of asking me if i could fix and remove all the spray..i removed all over spray and he was thrilled to death..i let him know that i thought it looked to good,not factory looking and i called it a "carnival" job as thats how i saw it....any of you that own 60s and 70s pins with orig. paint work can see for yourself the over spray and imperfections on the paint from the factory.i love this and believe it gives character to the machine.my son does not at all care for it and expects me to shoot paint perfect..i dont care really what paint is used,home made or store bought stencils..the key is to get off your ass and not worry and give it a try..you will learn whats the best way for you and what materials to use..it really is the only way..you have nothing to gain by not trying it yourself.very rewarding and how could the machine look worse?.think you should turn the cabinet so you can better shoot the color? then do it and dont concern yourself that some one else does not do it this way or that way.you will get better with practice and every time you re do a cabinet it will look better and go faster because of what you have learned on your own..again..do not hesitate or think you can not do this so it looks good..you will be your worse critic and others will ask you to help them....these lasts posts are the longest i have made on pinside.i had serious medical problem 8 years ago.my grammar,memory,and other brain functions are almost gone so i dont make long post or posts to show how or what i have painted or built etc as people dwell on my spelling and not what im trying to say..but i feel very very strongly on telling or helping others to paint,weld and try new things instead of just dreaming about it..i am not trying to hijack this thread in any way...get a piece of plywood,make some stencils and start to practice until you feel like shooting color on your cabinet

WOW!! You need to learn how to use the RETURN key and create paragraphs. After a few lines, I lost my interest to read, even though it may have been interesting.

Yves

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