(Topic ID: 221301)

Thinking about stenciling your pin?? Read this.....it might help


By timab2000

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 101 posts
  • 32 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 56 days ago by freddy
  • Topic is favorited by 47 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 45 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

VIfbH3od (resized).jpeg
t0ZvCvKy (resized).jpeg
PHTnvZYk (resized).jpeg
Ku_Ch2xw (resized).jpeg
f7llqE_Q (resized).jpeg
BgwtHHj3 (resized).jpeg
exfJjWFw (resized).jpeg
8WZh6yEY (resized).jpeg
0sp7S6Rg (resized).jpeg
0qnr8_wg (resized).jpeg
_fFfp93w (resized).jpeg
8760A171-1050-4D80-977C-FD591F1632DC (resized).jpeg
086AB9E3-C624-4399-A5AB-D82838C158BA (resized).jpeg
download (resized).jpg
20170907_101114 (resized).jpg
20170905_144618 (resized).jpg

There are 101 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 2 years ago
Quoted from timab2000:

Great idea but...how many times can you continue to paint the same machine?
I think this is where the vinyl stencil has the advantage. (business wise) You only get to use it once. It can't be re-sold to someone else You get one shot and that's it. Forcing the next person who has the same machine to go out and buy one for themselves. I hope that made sense.
But yeah the results you are getting are nice! Well done!

Ive repainted 5 KingOfDiamonds/Diamond Jacks... do have a set of oil board stencils I reuse. Kings and Queens is another popular tittle.

So it depends if its just for your self or you are doing work for others... Atlantis is another where I could use this...

#52 2 years ago

You mean your not going to repaint your machine as the original equipment manufacture suggest every 4000 miles?

1 year later
#53 11 months ago

This is a good thread Tim, picked up a couple good pointers.

Is there a recommendation for altering the stencil to make it easier to pull up? That’s the part I’m not fully grasping. Perhaps cutting it into 3 smaller sections to lift instead of one huge stencil?

How did you do your touch ups again?

#54 11 months ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

This is a good thread Tim, picked up a couple good pointers.
Is there a recommendation for altering the stencil to make it easier to pull up? That’s the part I’m not fully grasping. Perhaps cutting it into 3 smaller sections to lift instead of one huge stencil?
How did you do your touch ups again?

Depending on the art I have a pair of scissors handle and cut the stencil as to avoid dragging pieces thru fresh paint. Just need to look at which direction to start from. Pinbot is a tough one. Lots of little pieces to pick out.

#55 11 months ago

I’ve done 5 cabinets using Pimp stencils. What I learned:

Spray several light coats as opposed to flooding the cab with a heavy coat. Thick wet paint doesn’t separate well from the stencil material and will cause messy edges and poor lines.

You don’t have to rush pulling the stencils if you do lighter coats that dry quickly. So don’t panic about time.

Gloss rattle can paint drys very slowly. Again light coats are especially important using gloss paint.

Most 80’s and earlier pins did not have very glossy finishes. Closer to a satin in my opinion.

For the best results, scuff down the paint job after a few days with 600 grit paper and clear coat(you can even use rattle can clear). I use a low gloss clear. This gives all the colors a uniform sheen and levels the stenciled paint edges.

#56 10 months ago

I've done quite a few repaints with Pimp stencils. Tearing paint isn't from too much paint. It's from cheap paint. Use high quality enamel and it won't happen.

My latest

20190908_164026 (resized).jpg

#57 10 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I've done quite a few repaints with Pimp stencils. Tearing paint isn't from too much paint. It's from cheap paint. Use high quality enamel and it won't happen.

define "high quality enamel"

#58 10 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I've done quite a few repaints with Pimp stencils. Tearing paint isn't from too much paint. It's from cheap paint. Use high quality enamel and it won't happen.
My latest
[quoted image]

I’m not familiar with this cabinet, but what are all those black smudges and streaks in white areas. Is that high quality enamel ?

#59 10 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I’m not familiar with this cabinet, but what are all those black smudges and streaks in white areas. Is that high quality enamel ?

Looks like intentional “webbing” to me.

#60 10 months ago

Some sort of webbing I guess.

#61 10 months ago

Oh man this is gonna be fun

F166AE7C-0C2F-444F-9F44-E60E38EC071C.gif
#62 10 months ago

Shows over

#63 10 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

define "high quality enamel"

Not Krylon or Rustoleum. Montana is a good starting point.

Quoted from jj44114:

Some sort of webbing I guess.

It is webbing. Find an original EM cabinet with base white and you'll find webbing or spatter to break up the expanses of white.

I realize in the era of decals on cabinets a lot of you guys don't know how it was done back then.

#64 10 months ago

This one was a tough one for pulling the stencils but I did not tear any paint in doing it. 20170905_144618 (resized).jpg20170907_101114 (resized).jpg

I had to totally rebuild the backglass surround on this one. They made that from MDF at the factory. There's no filling that. Tore all of it off and replaced with real wood.

#65 10 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Not Krylon or Rustoleum. Montana is a good starting point.

I've heard good things about Montana paints as well. They have some pretty crazy lines for getting unique effects.

Have you ever used their varnish for clearcoating a cabinet? I've heard some people get good results with this stuff as a final stage after applying your satin sheen base coats.

https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-tech-sprays/varnish-400ml/montana-varnish-400ml

They also make a spider effect can apparently, among other products.

https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/black-50ml-600ml-graffiti-paint/montana-black-spider-150ml

#66 10 months ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I've heard good things about Montana paints as well. They have some pretty crazy lines for getting unique effects.
Have you ever used their varnish for clearcoating a cabinet? I've heard some people get good results with this stuff as a final stage after applying your satin sheen base coats.
https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-tech-sprays/varnish-400ml/montana-varnish-400ml
They also make a spider effect can apparently, among other products.
https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/black-50ml-600ml-graffiti-paint/montana-black-spider-150ml

I have never used anything to clear a cabinet other than Minwax Polycrylic. Works really well.

I've never seen any kind of webbing that comes out of a can that approximates what the factory did. Inevitably the webbing comes out way too thick and it ends up getting way too much on the cabinet. That's the main issue with webbing. There were a few games where they for some reason went heavy but for the most part it's very thin and not applied heavily all over the cabinet.

#67 10 months ago

U can get Montana webbing / marbleizing spray in a can. Take it dilute with lacquer thinner, then spray in spray gun to achieve old thinner effects. Messy process, but I have done a couple of times. There are a couple of other posts about it on here.

P

#68 10 months ago
Quoted from perryd:

U can get Montana webbing / marbleizing spray in a can. Take it dilute with lacquer thinner, then spray in spray gun to achieve old thinner effects. Messy process, but I have done a couple of times. There are a couple of other posts about it on here.
P

I could, but I can do the webbing just fine with a Weiler brush and a plain old bottle of Americana lamp black. It's simple. No mixing, no gun, no compressor, none of that stuff. I can do a cabinet in probably 15 minutes and all I have to clean up is the brush.

#69 10 months ago

I have also tried this method first time I did a gott. Cab many years ago. Worked okay, but I found with the air compressor and gun, results were more consistent to original than using the wire brush and black paint. To each their own however. Good luck!

#70 10 months ago

When it comes to stencils, forget rattle cans and all that jazz. Use a two stage automotive paint, typically I use PPG shop line. Just use the right kind of paints and all these issues people keep experiencing go away.

#71 10 months ago
Quoted from gamestencils:

When it comes to stencils, forget rattle cans and all that jazz. Use a two stage automotive paint, typically I use PPG shop line. Just use the right kind of paints and all these issues people keep experiencing go away.

Yeah. And I didn’t feel like investing in a huge air compressor tank, a proper spray gun, expensive automotive paints, a proper ventilated spraying area, proper body protection, etc etc. Not everyone has the means to do that, nor the space, etc. Especially if this is your first restore.

People have gotten good results using the rattle can methods with stencils. That’s what I’d like to hear.

#72 10 months ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Yeah. And I didn’t feel like investing in a huge air compressor tank, a proper spray gun, expensive automotive paints, a proper ventilated spraying area, proper body protection, etc etc. Not everyone has the means to do that, nor the space, etc. Especially if this is your first restore.
People have gotten good results using the rattle can methods with stencils. That’s what I’d like to hear.

Nonsense. A small pancake compressor, 16.00 gun at harbor freight is all you need. No more overspray than rattle cans and a fraction of the problems. Kills me to read all these stories of people restoring games worth thousands of dollars complaining about cheap paint

8 months later
#73 63 days ago

Loads of good info on this post as we have a Firepower to do soon and will try these

download (resized).jpg
#74 62 days ago

Pinball Pimp uses and recommends Krylon and Rustoleum rattle can paint in his instruction sheet.

#75 62 days ago

I have done around 30 stencil jobs on my games, customer games etc so far. I have used stencils from Pinball Pimp, cut my own, Classic Arcades, Twisted Pins and Pinball Pal. Here are a few things I have learned.

I make my own stencils for games I paint frequently or for EM's, buy the others for one offs.

Best rattle can paint from my experience:
Ironlak
Montana
Rustoleum 2x

Best Stencils:
My own (reuseable, softer lines)
Pinball Pimp (excellent alignment, reproduction of the color traps)
Pinball Pal (reusable a few times, but no longer available)

I used to pull stencils as soon as I was done spraying but now I just let them sit for 24 hours and then pull. You don't have the stress of sagging vinyl or the risk of broken/stringy paint. Also the temperature/humidity in which you paint in plays a big role in how the paint will dry.

Don't try to get full coverage in one pass when the stencils are applied. Light mist coats until you just have enough paint to not see the base coat underneath is how they did it at the factory. It will also help you reduce/eliminate that raised look along the edges so many games that get restenciled have.

If you have to paint Yellow over a darker color, lightly spray the section with white first so you don't have to spray the yellow so thick.

Try to use all of the same brand for all colors and primers. This helps eliminate some weird issues you will see when paints of different brands have bad reactions with each other.

Prep is key and the longest part of the process by far. Relax and enjoy the process, these games are gorgeous when painted properly back to their previous glory.

#76 61 days ago

first time i post on this subject anytime on pinside as everyone will use what they find best for them and what materials they can find easy....i have been doing stencil work for more than 40 years...cars,bikes,custom signs and for the last 7 years or so pinball and arcade cabinets..i use lacquer paint only..this was the paint that was used on most pinball cabinets and arcade games thru the early 80's..there is a reason for this..lacquer paint dries within minutes and you will not get raised stencil lines or choppy edges..i understand most of you will never get the chance to try lacquer paint but this was the paint used when your cabinet left the factory so if you want a true restoration this is the paint to use..no real waiting time when shooting multiple stencils and colors..i have always made my own stencils from cereal boxes..yes im sure many here will laugh hard at this but this type of heavy card stock is easy to work with.i was taught this way of painting and stencil making from a long dead custom car painter in the middle 70's..i helped a few pinsiders paint their cabinets but they insisted i use enamel based paint and i was happy to help as thats what they wanted..best advice is to practice,practice and then practice some more until you see and feel how the paint you are using reacts..no matter what you paint you use dont be critical of your own work.more than likely you are the only one to notice your flaws and most people never see the mistakes,only the painter see them..good luck

#77 61 days ago

When you are painting the stencils - it sounds like it would be good to lay the cabinet flat and do a single side (face up) at a time. Is that what most/some of you are doing?

If you are trying to remove them while the edge is still wet, it sounds like that would be easiest. I would also think that runs would be minimal also as gravity would not be your enemy.

#78 61 days ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

Pinball Pimp uses and recommends Krylon and Rustoleum rattle can paint in his instruction sheet.

Quoted from Xenon75:

I have done around 30 stencil jobs on my games, customer games etc so far. I have used stencils from Pinball Pimp, cut my glory.

top noth info there and taking it all in

Quoted from belairjoe:

first time i post on this subject anytime on pinside as everyone will use what they find best for them and what materials they can find easy....i have been doing stencil work for more than 40 years...cars,bikes,custom signs and for the last 7 years or so pinball and arcade cabinets..i use lacquer paint only..this was the paint that was used on most pinball cabinets and arcade games thru the early 80's..there is a reason for this..lacquer paint dries within minutes and you will not get raised stencil lines or choppy edges..i understand most of you will never get the chance to try lacquer paint but this was the paint used when your cabinet left the factory so if you want a true restoration this is the paint to use..no real waiting time when shooting multiple stencils and colors..i have always made my own stencils from cereal boxes..yes im sure many here will laugh hard at this but this type of heavy card stock is easy to work with.i was taught this way of painting and stencil making from a long dead custom car painter in the middle 70's..i helped a few pinsiders paint their cabinets but they insisted i use enamel based paint and i was happy to help as thats what they wanted..best advice is to practice,practice and then practice some more until you see and feel how the paint you are using reacts..no matter what you paint you use dont be critical of your own work.more than likely you are the only one to notice your flaws and most people never see the mistakes,only the painter see them..good luck

So I am assuming that you need a lot of decent equipment to use lacquer paint etc?

Quoted from DougZ3:

When you are painting the stencils - it sounds like it would be good to lay the cabinet flat and do a single side (face up) at a time. Is that what most/some of you are doing?
If you are trying to remove them while the edge is still wet, it sounds like that would be easiest. I would also think that runs would be minimal also as gravity would not be your enemy.

That's the way I would have thought is best to do it but as I know diddley squat I am probably wrong

#79 61 days ago
Quoted from belairjoe:

first time i post on this subject anytime on pinside as everyone will use what they find best for them and what materials they can find easy....i have been doing stencil work for more than 40 years...cars,bikes,custom signs and for the last 7 years or so pinball and arcade cabinets..i use lacquer paint only..this was the paint that was used on most pinball cabinets and arcade games thru the early 80's..there is a reason for this..lacquer paint dries within minutes and you will not get raised stencil lines or choppy edges..i understand most of you will never get the chance to try lacquer paint but this was the paint used when your cabinet left the factory so if you want a true restoration this is the paint to use..no real waiting time when shooting multiple stencils and colors..i have always made my own stencils from cereal boxes..yes im sure many here will laugh hard at this but this type of heavy card stock is easy to work with.i was taught this way of painting and stencil making from a long dead custom car painter in the middle 70's..i helped a few pinsiders paint their cabinets but they insisted i use enamel based paint and i was happy to help as thats what they wanted..best advice is to practice,practice and then practice some more until you see and feel how the paint you are using reacts..no matter what you paint you use dont be critical of your own work.more than likely you are the only one to notice your flaws and most people never see the mistakes,only the painter see them..good luck

Are you shooting acrylic lacquer? Or are you talking about the old nitrocellulose lacquer? If you are talking nitrocellulose lacquer, where are you finding it?

#80 61 days ago
Quoted from DougZ3:

When you are painting the stencils - it sounds like it would be good to lay the cabinet flat and do a single side (face up) at a time. Is that what most/some of you are doing?
If you are trying to remove them while the edge is still wet, it sounds like that would be easiest. I would also think that runs would be minimal also as gravity would not be your enemy.

I prefer to shoot on the vertical surface. You can do single sides as you speak of but I would suggest you roll the cabinet back over and pull your stencil when it is on a vertical plane so you don't drop peeled stencil material into your fresh paint.

#81 60 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Are you shooting acrylic lacquer? Or are you talking about the old nitrocellulose lacquer? If you are talking nitrocellulose lacquer, where are you finding it?

both..but i only have black and white in nitrocellulose lacquer. from the old days...you can not buy lacquer paint legally in the state of cal. but that is were they still make it and sell it from..look up autocolorlibrary on the net..they sell acrylic lacquer paint for cars and i have been getting it from them for years..they also sell a brand called restoration supply that is very good...i also discovered that if i am painting say a 1976 chicago coin shoot out arcade game,i can find the colors and paint they used by looking at the color charts of the paint used on most cars. from that year...mostly gm but other ford colors used on arcade games..no question the quality of todays lacquer paint is not as good as the old days but for arcade and pin cabinets its fine.to answer other question posted i have not had runs ever on cabinets as paint flashes fast enough to avoid this..i should also mention when doing stencil work i learned to fan the paint on in quick strokes instead of shooting one or two direct coats..sometimes 4 fan coats moving the gun very quickly..i remove stencils after maybe 2 minutes or so..i leave a bit of over spray same as the factory did....i read many threads on pinside on making stencils and how to paint etc..do not believe that there is only one way to correctly re-paint and stencil a cabinet..its just not so...new machines to make stencils,newer better paint.and a vast wealth of knowledge on how some people do it..it depends on what you are looking for in the end result..i like the factory look..that means not perfect with some over spray etc..but as example there is photos on pinside of game i helped a good friend paint.when finished i thought it looked fantastic as he made his own stencils and i just did the easy part and shot the color..he hated the over spray to the point of asking me if i could fix and remove all the spray..i removed all over spray and he was thrilled to death..i let him know that i thought it looked to good,not factory looking and i called it a "carnival" job as thats how i saw it....any of you that own 60s and 70s pins with orig. paint work can see for yourself the over spray and imperfections on the paint from the factory.i love this and believe it gives character to the machine.my son does not at all care for it and expects me to shoot paint perfect..i dont care really what paint is used,home made or store bought stencils..the key is to get off your ass and not worry and give it a try..you will learn whats the best way for you and what materials to use..it really is the only way..you have nothing to gain by not trying it yourself.very rewarding and how could the machine look worse?.think you should turn the cabinet so you can better shoot the color? then do it and dont concern yourself that some one else does not do it this way or that way.you will get better with practice and every time you re do a cabinet it will look better and go faster because of what you have learned on your own..again..do not hesitate or think you can not do this so it looks good..you will be your worse critic and others will ask you to help them....these lasts posts are the longest i have made on pinside.i had serious medical problem 8 years ago.my grammar,memory,and other brain functions are almost gone so i dont make long post or posts to show how or what i have painted or built etc as people dwell on my spelling and not what im trying to say..but i feel very very strongly on telling or helping others to paint,weld and try new things instead of just dreaming about it..i am not trying to hijack this thread in any way...get a piece of plywood,make some stencils and start to practice until you feel like shooting color on your cabinet

#82 60 days ago
Quoted from belairjoe:

both..but i only have black and white in nitrocellulose lacquer. from the old days...you can not buy lacquer paint legally in the state of cal. but that is were they still make it and sell it from..look up autocolorlibrary on the net..they sell acrylic lacquer paint for cars and i have been getting it from them for years..they also sell a brand called restoration supply that is very good...i also discovered that if i am painting say a 1976 chicago coin shoot out arcade game,i can find the colors and paint they used by looking at the color charts of the paint used on most cars. from that year...mostly gm but other ford colors used on arcade games..no question the quality of todays lacquer paint is not as good as the old days but for arcade and pin cabinets its fine.to answer other question posted i have not had runs ever on cabinets as paint flashes fast enough to avoid this..i should also mention when doing stencil work i learned to fan the paint on in quick strokes instead of shooting one or two direct coats..sometimes 4 fan coats moving the gun very quickly..i remove stencils after maybe 2 minutes or so..i leave a bit of over spray same as the factory did....i read many threads on pinside on making stencils and how to paint etc..do not believe that there is only one way to correctly re-paint and stencil a cabinet..its just not so...new machines to make stencils,newer better paint.and a vast wealth of knowledge on how some people do it..it depends on what you are looking for in the end result..i like the factory look..that means not perfect with some over spray etc..but as example there is photos on pinside of game i helped a good friend paint.when finished i thought it looked fantastic as he made his own stencils and i just did the easy part and shot the color..he hated the over spray to the point of asking me if i could fix and remove all the spray..i removed all over spray and he was thrilled to death..i let him know that i thought it looked to good,not factory looking and i called it a "carnival" job as thats how i saw it....any of you that own 60s and 70s pins with orig. paint work can see for yourself the over spray and imperfections on the paint from the factory.i love this and believe it gives character to the machine.my son does not at all care for it and expects me to shoot paint perfect..i dont care really what paint is used,home made or store bought stencils..the key is to get off your ass and not worry and give it a try..you will learn whats the best way for you and what materials to use..it really is the only way..you have nothing to gain by not trying it yourself.very rewarding and how could the machine look worse?.think you should turn the cabinet so you can better shoot the color? then do it and dont concern yourself that some one else does not do it this way or that way.you will get better with practice and every time you re do a cabinet it will look better and go faster because of what you have learned on your own..again..do not hesitate or think you can not do this so it looks good..you will be your worse critic and others will ask you to help them....these lasts posts are the longest i have made on pinside.i had serious medical problem 8 years ago.my grammar,memory,and other brain functions are almost gone so i dont make long post or posts to show how or what i have painted or built etc as people dwell on my spelling and not what im trying to say..but i feel very very strongly on telling or helping others to paint,weld and try new things instead of just dreaming about it..i am not trying to hijack this thread in any way...get a piece of plywood,make some stencils and start to practice until you feel like shooting color on your cabinet

WOW!! You need to learn how to use the RETURN key and create paragraphs. After a few lines, I lost my interest to read, even though it may have been interesting.

Yves

#83 60 days ago
Quoted from Arcane:

WOW!! You need to learn how to use the RETURN key and create paragraphs. After a few lines, I lost my interest to read, even though it may have been interesting.
Yves

i knew how to use return button at 6am when i woke up.by 1pm i did not remember.thats why i dont post so much

#84 60 days ago

Just so others don't get discouraged i broke it up a bit so its easier to follow.

both..but i only have black and white in nitrocellulose lacquer. from the old days...you can not buy lacquer paint legally in the state of cal. but that is were they still make it and sell it from..look up autocolorlibrary on the net..they sell acrylic lacquer paint for cars and i have been getting it from them for years..they also sell a brand called restoration supply that is very good...i also discovered that if i am painting say a 1976 chicago coin shoot out arcade game,i can find the colors and paint they used by looking at the color charts of the paint used on most cars. from that year...mostly gm but other ford colors used on arcade games..no question the quality of todays lacquer paint is not as good as the old days but for arcade and pin cabinets its fine.

to answer other question posted i have not had runs ever on cabinets as paint flashes fast enough to avoid this..i should also mention when doing stencil work i learned to fan the paint on in quick strokes instead of shooting one or two direct coats..sometimes 4 fan coats moving the gun very quickly..i remove stencils after maybe 2 minutes or so..

i leave a bit of over spray same as the factory did....i read many threads on pinside on making stencils and how to paint etc..do not believe that there is only one way to correctly re-paint and stencil a cabinet..its just not so...new machines to make stencils,newer better paint.and a vast wealth of knowledge on how some people do it..it depends on what you are looking for in the end result.

.i like the factory look..that means not perfect with some over spray etc..but as example there is photos on pinside of game i helped a good friend paint.when finished i thought it looked fantastic as he made his own stencils and i just did the easy part and shot the color..he hated the over spray to the point of asking me if i could fix and remove all the spray..i removed all over spray and he was thrilled to death..i let him know that i thought it looked to good,not factory looking and i called it a "carnival" job as thats how i saw it....any of you that own 60s and 70s pins with orig. paint work can see for yourself the over spray and imperfections on the paint from the factory.i love this and believe it gives character to the machine.my son does not at all care for it and expects me to shoot paint perfect..i dont care really what paint is used,home made or store bought stencils.

the key is to get off your ass and not worry and give it a try..you will learn whats the best way for you and what materials to use..it really is the only way..you have nothing to gain by not trying it yourself.very rewarding and how could the machine look worse?.think you should turn the cabinet so you can better shoot the color? then do it and dont concern yourself that some one else does not do it this way or that way.you will get better with practice and every time you re do a cabinet it will look better and go faster because of what you have learned on your own..again..do not hesitate or think you can not do this so it looks good..you will be your worse critic and others will ask you to help them....

these lasts posts are the longest i have made on pinside.i had serious medical problem 8 years ago.my grammar,memory,and other brain functions are almost gone so i dont make long post or posts to show how or what i have painted or built etc as people dwell on my spelling and not what im trying to say..but i feel very very strongly on telling or helping others to paint,weld and try new things instead of just dreaming about it..i am not trying to hijack this thread in any way...get a piece of plywood,make some stencils and start to practice until you feel like shooting color on your cabinet

#85 60 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Just so others don't get discouraged i broke it up a bit so its easier to follow.
both..but i only have black and white in nitrocellulose lacquer. from the old days...you can not buy lacquer paint legally in the state of cal. but that is were they still make it and sell it from..look up autocolorlibrary on the net..they sell acrylic lacquer paint for cars and i have been getting it from them for years..they also sell a brand called restoration supply that is very good...i also discovered that if i am painting say a 1976 chicago coin shoot out arcade game,i can find the colors and paint they used by looking at the color charts of the paint used on most cars. from that year...mostly gm but other ford colors used on arcade games..no question the quality of todays lacquer paint is not as good as the old days but for arcade and pin cabinets its fine.
to answer other question posted i have not had runs ever on cabinets as paint flashes fast enough to avoid this..i should also mention when doing stencil work i learned to fan the paint on in quick strokes instead of shooting one or two direct coats..sometimes 4 fan coats moving the gun very quickly..i remove stencils after maybe 2 minutes or so..
i leave a bit of over spray same as the factory did....i read many threads on pinside on making stencils and how to paint etc..do not believe that there is only one way to correctly re-paint and stencil a cabinet..its just not so...new machines to make stencils,newer better paint.and a vast wealth of knowledge on how some people do it..it depends on what you are looking for in the end result.
.i like the factory look..that means not perfect with some over spray etc..but as example there is photos on pinside of game i helped a good friend paint.when finished i thought it looked fantastic as he made his own stencils and i just did the easy part and shot the color..he hated the over spray to the point of asking me if i could fix and remove all the spray..i removed all over spray and he was thrilled to death..i let him know that i thought it looked to good,not factory looking and i called it a "carnival" job as thats how i saw it....any of you that own 60s and 70s pins with orig. paint work can see for yourself the over spray and imperfections on the paint from the factory.i love this and believe it gives character to the machine.my son does not at all care for it and expects me to shoot paint perfect..i dont care really what paint is used,home made or store bought stencils.
the key is to get off your ass and not worry and give it a try..you will learn whats the best way for you and what materials to use..it really is the only way..you have nothing to gain by not trying it yourself.very rewarding and how could the machine look worse?.think you should turn the cabinet so you can better shoot the color? then do it and dont concern yourself that some one else does not do it this way or that way.you will get better with practice and every time you re do a cabinet it will look better and go faster because of what you have learned on your own..again..do not hesitate or think you can not do this so it looks good..you will be your worse critic and others will ask you to help them....
these lasts posts are the longest i have made on pinside.i had serious medical problem 8 years ago.my grammar,memory,and other brain functions are almost gone so i dont make long post or posts to show how or what i have painted or built etc as people dwell on my spelling and not what im trying to say..but i feel very very strongly on telling or helping others to paint,weld and try new things instead of just dreaming about it..i am not trying to hijack this thread in any way...get a piece of plywood,make some stencils and start to practice until you feel like shooting color on your cabinet

thanks!!

#86 60 days ago
Quoted from Arcane:

WOW!! You need to learn how to use the RETURN key and create paragraphs. After a few lines, I lost my interest to read, even though it may have been interesting.
Yves

Wow. You need to read the entire post to the last few sentences before you jammed your foot in your mouth. Cut the guy some slack.

#87 60 days ago

As mentioned, practice makes perfect. I learned to paint by painting model cars. I learned to paint by applying way too much paint and watching it turn into runs that ruined my paint job.

I learned to paint by doing a small amount of reading on the proper way to lay down a coat of paint. I learned by making a few mistakes.

The Walmarts in my town carry some cheap rattle can paint for something like 95 cents per can. Go buy some cheap paint, some some plywood, a piece of sheet metal, an old car door, and old refrigerator door, and have at it. It will cost you a few bucks but everything we do has the price of tuition involved.

Google up " proper spray can painting". Or painting tips and techniques.

Get some cans of cheap spray paint and push it to the limits.

#88 60 days ago

Pinball Pimp stencils are great and very easy to use. I used 2X paint and removed when wet.

086AB9E3-C624-4399-A5AB-D82838C158BA (resized).jpeg8760A171-1050-4D80-977C-FD591F1632DC (resized).jpeg
#89 60 days ago
Quoted from Jenniebear:

Pinball Pimp stencils are great and very easy to use. I used 2X paint and removed when wet.

Looks fantastic, did you use any sort of clear top coat?

#90 60 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Looks fantastic, did you use any sort of clear top coat?

No, I don't have the equipment for that. It's just Satin finish paint.

#91 60 days ago
Quoted from belairjoe:

both..but i only have black and white in nitrocellulose lacquer. from the old days...you can not buy lacquer paint legally in the state of cal. but that is were they still make it and sell it from..look up autocolorlibrary on the net..they sell acrylic lacquer paint for cars and i have been getting it from them for years..they also sell a brand called restoration supply that is very good...i also discovered that if i am painting say a 1976 chicago coin shoot out arcade game,i can find the colors and paint they used by looking at the color charts of the paint used on most cars. from that year...mostly gm but other ford colors used on arcade games..no question the quality of todays lacquer paint is not as good as the old days but for arcade and pin cabinets its fine.to answer other question posted i have not had runs ever on cabinets as paint flashes fast enough to avoid this..i should also mention when doing stencil work i learned to fan the paint on in quick strokes instead of shooting one or two direct coats..sometimes 4 fan coats moving the gun very quickly..i remove stencils after maybe 2 minutes or so..i leave a bit of over spray same as the factory did....i read many threads on pinside on making stencils and how to paint etc..do not believe that there is only one way to correctly re-paint and stencil a cabinet..its just not so...new machines to make stencils,newer better paint.and a vast wealth of knowledge on how some people do it..it depends on what you are looking for in the end result..i like the factory look..that means not perfect with some over spray etc..but as example there is photos on pinside of game i helped a good friend paint.when finished i thought it looked fantastic as he made his own stencils and i just did the easy part and shot the color..he hated the over spray to the point of asking me if i could fix and remove all the spray..i removed all over spray and he was thrilled to death..i let him know that i thought it looked to good,not factory looking and i called it a "carnival" job as thats how i saw it....any of you that own 60s and 70s pins with orig. paint work can see for yourself the over spray and imperfections on the paint from the factory.i love this and believe it gives character to the machine.my son does not at all care for it and expects me to shoot paint perfect..i dont care really what paint is used,home made or store bought stencils..the key is to get off your ass and not worry and give it a try..you will learn whats the best way for you and what materials to use..it really is the only way..you have nothing to gain by not trying it yourself.very rewarding and how could the machine look worse?.think you should turn the cabinet so you can better shoot the color? then do it and dont concern yourself that some one else does not do it this way or that way.you will get better with practice and every time you re do a cabinet it will look better and go faster because of what you have learned on your own..again..do not hesitate or think you can not do this so it looks good..you will be your worse critic and others will ask you to help them....these lasts posts are the longest i have made on pinside.i had serious medical problem 8 years ago.my grammar,memory,and other brain functions are almost gone so i dont make long post or posts to show how or what i have painted or built etc as people dwell on my spelling and not what im trying to say..but i feel very very strongly on telling or helping others to paint,weld and try new things instead of just dreaming about it..i am not trying to hijack this thread in any way...get a piece of plywood,make some stencils and start to practice until you feel like shooting color on your cabinet

Thank you for yout time and effort in writing that up it was read with interest and awe Ignore the (learn to use the return key) person I just thought that was rude as you could read your entire post as it was.

Wish there was a post on how to cut your own stencils, yes I expect it is very simple but it is nice to see others words on what to avoid doing to get youself a better start

#92 60 days ago
Quoted from jclocomotion:

Wish there was a post on how to cut your own stencils,

In one of my restoration threads, I put up some trial and error images with some narration...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania/page/2#post-3927310

In the CAMEO thread, I'm sure there is discussion on cutting stencils. With a CAMEO or Cricut, one has to piece them together since a 12" cut is all you get, not wide enough for cabs...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silhouette-cameo-pinball-restorers-club/page/7#post-4559282

#93 60 days ago

If people are looking for a more original spray look i can possibly look at making you guys some stencils from ABS plastic on my laser table.

f7llqE_Q (resized).jpeg0sp7S6Rg (resized).jpegKu_Ch2xw (resized).jpeg0qnr8_wg (resized).jpegVIfbH3od (resized).jpegPHTnvZYk (resized).jpeg_fFfp93w (resized).jpegexfJjWFw (resized).jpegBgwtHHj3 (resized).jpegt0ZvCvKy (resized).jpeg8WZh6yEY (resized).jpeg
#94 60 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

If people are looking for a more original spray look i can possibly look at making you guys some stencils from ABS plastic on my laser table.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WOW yes very interested but what sort of files/pictures etc would you require as we have just a Firepower/Fan-Tas-Tic and Locomotion in our personal collection that we would like to look nice

#95 60 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

In one of my restoration threads, I put up some trial and error images with some narration...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania/page/2#post-3927310
In the CAMEO thread, I'm sure there is discussion on cutting stencils. With a CAMEO or Cricut, one has to piece them together since a 12" cut is all you get, not wide enough for cabs...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silhouette-cameo-pinball-restorers-club/page/7#post-4559282

Cheers will take a look shortly

#96 60 days ago
Quoted from jclocomotion:

WOW yes very interested but what sort of files/pictures etc would you require as we have just a Firepower/Fan-Tas-Tic and Locomotion in our personal collection that we would like to look nice

That locomotion looks like it’s possibly applied with a silk screen. Hard to tell from the online pictures I see. It looks too detailed to be a free floating stencil, but I could be wrong.

#97 60 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

That locomotion looks like it’s possibly applied with a silk screen. Hard to tell from the online pictures I see. It looks too detailed to be a free floating stencil, but I could be wrong.

Yes I was thinking that myself so I think that it would have to be just touched up.
The Firepower and Fan-Tas-Tic are pretty simple graphics so would they be good candidates?

#98 60 days ago
Quoted from jclocomotion:

Yes I was thinking that myself so I think that it would have to be just touched up.
The Firepower and Fan-Tas-Tic are pretty simple graphics so would they be good candidates?

Pm me. I will tell you what I need.

#99 57 days ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

Wow. You need to read the entire post to the last few sentences before you jammed your foot in your mouth. Cut the guy some slack.

Agreed!!

#100 56 days ago

Kind of a pre-stencil question.. hoping this is still on topic...

So I see that most people seem to sand the cabinet to bare wood, and then fill it in and prime.

Is there any reason that you could not just leave the existing paint on, fill and prime (maybe with original kilz to lick it all in ?) then stencil? Of course you would want to smooth it out to some level but why to bare wood?

I can make some guesses, but when I paint my house, I don't strip to bare wood first, and my wife thinks it looks great

I am sure there are multiple answers to this too - but curious to learn what shortcuts I can take and still get an excellent result. Probably not many, but worth asking!

Thanks - this is a really useful thread. Lots of different opinions, but I am learning something from each of them.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 86.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
1,600 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Midlothian, VA
From: $ 14.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 149.00
$ 86.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 49.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
There are 101 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside