(Topic ID: 221301)

Thinking about stenciling your pin?? Read this.....it might help


By timab2000

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 72 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by gamestencils
  • Topic is favorited by 27 Pinsiders

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There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago
Quoted from timab2000:

Great idea but...how many times can you continue to paint the same machine?
I think this is where the vinyl stencil has the advantage. (business wise) You only get to use it once. It can't be re-sold to someone else You get one shot and that's it. Forcing the next person who has the same machine to go out and buy one for themselves. I hope that made sense.
But yeah the results you are getting are nice! Well done!

Ive repainted 5 KingOfDiamonds/Diamond Jacks... do have a set of oil board stencils I reuse. Kings and Queens is another popular tittle.

So it depends if its just for your self or you are doing work for others... Atlantis is another where I could use this...

#52 1 year ago

You mean your not going to repaint your machine as the original equipment manufacture suggest every 4000 miles?

1 year later
#53 8 days ago

This is a good thread Tim, picked up a couple good pointers.

Is there a recommendation for altering the stencil to make it easier to pull up? That’s the part I’m not fully grasping. Perhaps cutting it into 3 smaller sections to lift instead of one huge stencil?

How did you do your touch ups again?

#54 8 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

This is a good thread Tim, picked up a couple good pointers.
Is there a recommendation for altering the stencil to make it easier to pull up? That’s the part I’m not fully grasping. Perhaps cutting it into 3 smaller sections to lift instead of one huge stencil?
How did you do your touch ups again?

Depending on the art I have a pair of scissors handle and cut the stencil as to avoid dragging pieces thru fresh paint. Just need to look at which direction to start from. Pinbot is a tough one. Lots of little pieces to pick out.

#55 8 days ago

I’ve done 5 cabinets using Pimp stencils. What I learned:

Spray several light coats as opposed to flooding the cab with a heavy coat. Thick wet paint doesn’t separate well from the stencil material and will cause messy edges and poor lines.

You don’t have to rush pulling the stencils if you do lighter coats that dry quickly. So don’t panic about time.

Gloss rattle can paint drys very slowly. Again light coats are especially important using gloss paint.

Most 80’s and earlier pins did not have very glossy finishes. Closer to a satin in my opinion.

For the best results, scuff down the paint job after a few days with 600 grit paper and clear coat(you can even use rattle can clear). I use a low gloss clear. This gives all the colors a uniform sheen and levels the stenciled paint edges.

#56 7 days ago

I've done quite a few repaints with Pimp stencils. Tearing paint isn't from too much paint. It's from cheap paint. Use high quality enamel and it won't happen.

My latest

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#57 7 days ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I've done quite a few repaints with Pimp stencils. Tearing paint isn't from too much paint. It's from cheap paint. Use high quality enamel and it won't happen.

define "high quality enamel"

#58 7 days ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I've done quite a few repaints with Pimp stencils. Tearing paint isn't from too much paint. It's from cheap paint. Use high quality enamel and it won't happen.
My latest
[quoted image]

I’m not familiar with this cabinet, but what are all those black smudges and streaks in white areas. Is that high quality enamel ?

#59 7 days ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I’m not familiar with this cabinet, but what are all those black smudges and streaks in white areas. Is that high quality enamel ?

Looks like intentional “webbing” to me.

#60 7 days ago

Some sort of webbing I guess.

#61 7 days ago

Oh man this is gonna be fun

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#62 7 days ago

Shows over

#63 6 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

define "high quality enamel"

Not Krylon or Rustoleum. Montana is a good starting point.

Quoted from jj44114:

Some sort of webbing I guess.

It is webbing. Find an original EM cabinet with base white and you'll find webbing or spatter to break up the expanses of white.

I realize in the era of decals on cabinets a lot of you guys don't know how it was done back then.

#64 6 days ago

This one was a tough one for pulling the stencils but I did not tear any paint in doing it. 20170905_144618 (resized).jpg20170907_101114 (resized).jpg

I had to totally rebuild the backglass surround on this one. They made that from MDF at the factory. There's no filling that. Tore all of it off and replaced with real wood.

#65 6 days ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Not Krylon or Rustoleum. Montana is a good starting point.

I've heard good things about Montana paints as well. They have some pretty crazy lines for getting unique effects.

Have you ever used their varnish for clearcoating a cabinet? I've heard some people get good results with this stuff as a final stage after applying your satin sheen base coats.

https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-tech-sprays/varnish-400ml/montana-varnish-400ml

They also make a spider effect can apparently, among other products.

https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/black-50ml-600ml-graffiti-paint/montana-black-spider-150ml

#66 5 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I've heard good things about Montana paints as well. They have some pretty crazy lines for getting unique effects.
Have you ever used their varnish for clearcoating a cabinet? I've heard some people get good results with this stuff as a final stage after applying your satin sheen base coats.
https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-tech-sprays/varnish-400ml/montana-varnish-400ml
They also make a spider effect can apparently, among other products.
https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/black-50ml-600ml-graffiti-paint/montana-black-spider-150ml

I have never used anything to clear a cabinet other than Minwax Polycrylic. Works really well.

I've never seen any kind of webbing that comes out of a can that approximates what the factory did. Inevitably the webbing comes out way too thick and it ends up getting way too much on the cabinet. That's the main issue with webbing. There were a few games where they for some reason went heavy but for the most part it's very thin and not applied heavily all over the cabinet.

#67 5 days ago

U can get Montana webbing / marbleizing spray in a can. Take it dilute with lacquer thinner, then spray in spray gun to achieve old thinner effects. Messy process, but I have done a couple of times. There are a couple of other posts about it on here.

P

#68 5 days ago
Quoted from perryd:

U can get Montana webbing / marbleizing spray in a can. Take it dilute with lacquer thinner, then spray in spray gun to achieve old thinner effects. Messy process, but I have done a couple of times. There are a couple of other posts about it on here.
P

I could, but I can do the webbing just fine with a Weiler brush and a plain old bottle of Americana lamp black. It's simple. No mixing, no gun, no compressor, none of that stuff. I can do a cabinet in probably 15 minutes and all I have to clean up is the brush.

#69 5 days ago

I have also tried this method first time I did a gott. Cab many years ago. Worked okay, but I found with the air compressor and gun, results were more consistent to original than using the wire brush and black paint. To each their own however. Good luck!

#70 5 days ago

When it comes to stencils, forget rattle cans and all that jazz. Use a two stage automotive paint, typically I use PPG shop line. Just use the right kind of paints and all these issues people keep experiencing go away.

#71 5 days ago
Quoted from gamestencils:

When it comes to stencils, forget rattle cans and all that jazz. Use a two stage automotive paint, typically I use PPG shop line. Just use the right kind of paints and all these issues people keep experiencing go away.

Yeah. And I didn’t feel like investing in a huge air compressor tank, a proper spray gun, expensive automotive paints, a proper ventilated spraying area, proper body protection, etc etc. Not everyone has the means to do that, nor the space, etc. Especially if this is your first restore.

People have gotten good results using the rattle can methods with stencils. That’s what I’d like to hear.

#72 4 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Yeah. And I didn’t feel like investing in a huge air compressor tank, a proper spray gun, expensive automotive paints, a proper ventilated spraying area, proper body protection, etc etc. Not everyone has the means to do that, nor the space, etc. Especially if this is your first restore.
People have gotten good results using the rattle can methods with stencils. That’s what I’d like to hear.

Nonsense. A small pancake compressor, 16.00 gun at harbor freight is all you need. No more overspray than rattle cans and a fraction of the problems. Kills me to read all these stories of people restoring games worth thousands of dollars complaining about cheap paint

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