You can open up a whole new world of fun and excitement.

Except the plastic score reels ( unless your EM has light up numbers on the backglass ) just about everything in there can be fixed with a spot welder.

If you can read a schematic, can clean and adjust points, you can learn EM repair.

And you can experience a game, designed by one guy. Art work, shot layout, rules, cabinet art. There is something magical about those games and time and place that can still be savored and enjoyed today.

LTG

1. Yes and no. If you need Gottlieb EM parts, there is only really one vendor. Troubleshooting...it's all mechanical. As long as you have a schematic and know what state everything is supposed to be in when it's reset it's pretty simple to weed out stuff IMO. It's not like you can diagnose IC issues without a ton of specalized equipment, but switch stacks? Psh.

2. Just as heavy IMO. Less on the playfield, a lot more under the PF and in the cabinet and head. Usually smaller height-wise but just as wide.

3. A lot of them can be. Expect prices to be roughly proportional to if it's B/W or Gottlieb (Gottlieb being higher), if it's a wedgehead it's higher, if it's a lot of drop targets it's probably going to be higher priced. If it's got interesting rules or backbox animation, price accordingly...

Good deals come and go all the time
are you looking for a non working project?
or a working to semi working game?
when I had the fever I only bought projects that looked good but were DOA.
A good way to get into it is to find a single player like a 70s Wms for $200-$300
with a good BG & PF - good luck in the hunt

Have to call BS on that one. You know how, you just don't know it yet.

Long straight line - that's a wire. Two upright lines ll means a set of points that is normally open, two lines ll with a / through them means a set of points that are normally closed.

Schematic usually has a number chart in a corner and uses numbers on the long lines. That helps you figure wire colors.

Now you know enough about EM schematics to get into trouble and learn about fixing them.

LTG

You will learn schematics pretty quick. Once you see the mechanics and look where it is on the schematic it all makes sense.

I like Bow and Arrow. Fun Machine

Bow and Arrow would be a good start for an EM. I have not played it for 35 years but was OK back then. I think I would like it a lot better now as I didn't quite understand it as a kid, goal wise but love the art work. Currently I do not own any Bally's, but I have considered a Hokus Pokus.

A 4 player EM will be a lot of work if it has not been fully shopped in 35+ years. I always go through my EM's completely and spend on a 4 player an easy 100+ hours into it. All those score wheels, steppers, and relay switches to clean/adjust and that's just the half of it! Then there is working on the Playfield and Backglass if needed.

Knowing your way around a schematic is a must but I did not know how to read one over a year ago and now it's all good, so you will learn too. I suggest you also always get the Owners manual with an EM purchase as it has more useful information about how the game works as well.

Once you get in with the EM crowd they can direct you to parts, etc. so generally not a problem unless you need a new/used Playfield and/or Backglass and even then some people reproduce them.

Prices depend on if you want a project pin or a collectors. I have bought an EM for as little as $100.00 but they will be totally beat, but a great full on project. A rare EM in excellent condition could run you thousands of dollars. Middle of the road pins about $500.00 to $800.00 in good shape for average titles. Just like your DMD's, what's your budget and the quality you are looking for will dictate what you will want to get.

Not sure on the weight differences but someone else said it was about the same as a DMD pin.

Note: There is no Test Button to push on EM's like on a DMD as YOU are the test button!

Also, we now have a new EM sub-forum on Pinside so I suggest you start posting there for EM related topics to help that sub-forum thrive.

Ken

I always suggest to anyone getting into EM's that they start with a single player Gottlieb or Williams, they are less intimidating than the 2 and 4 player's to the novice. Most of them are great games too!!

You can learn the basics without feeling overwhelmed by all the banks of relays that you see in the 4 player models, some of them can be downright frightening

Hey Charles, pick a fun playing EM (check IPDB ratings for a rough idea, read the comments, watch youtube videos for game play) Set it up at the right angle, maybe high tap it or hop up the bumpers, and you'll love it. I agree, single player machines are easier to figure out but multi-players really aren't that much harder. Plus, multi-players are generally less expensive than their single or two player siblings.

Now, about that $450 Bow and Arrow you're talking about, I saw it on LA CL, I think it's priced too high. I've seen them locally (LA) for below that recently. Remember, a cabinet respray isn't cheap, figure approx $100 in materials alone. And, judging by the broken flipper rubbers, I'd say it hasn't worked in a while so you'll be working under the hood for sure. As long as all the parts are there and no one has monkeyed with it too bad, I'm sure you'll get it running, though. The playfield and backglass look nice, though.

There's a decent looking Gottlieb Jumping Jack on the San Diego CL for $400 that I think is a much better game at a pretty good price.

Anyhow, good luck, keep us updated and post away!

Art.

I'm in the same boat Charles.
After collecting about 10-11 DMDs I'm ready to add an EM to my roster.
They're sometimes simple but I find them very "pure" if that's the right word.
You can't coast your way to a high score on an EM. They force you to work at it and really develop some fundamental skills. Also, the artwork and sounds on some of them just transports you to another time.
I have two titles I like and am looking for, hopefully one will present itself near me soon.

Good luck!

True!

My fist machine was a 1976 Williams Space Odyssey which I still own and love, so when I was shopping it and cleaning/repairing score wheels I was able to look at player 2 score wheels to see how it went back together.

Once you own a few different EM's you will be needing less tech help from others because you usually have examples right in front of you from other machines you own to learn from, kind of like a hands on pinball repair school in your own home.

Ken

For a first EM, I would suggest a Williams or Bally single player game. Simple to fix, far less to go wrong. GTB can be more hair pulling, and 2-4 player games are 2-4X more complicated to clean and fix. Just a suggestion.

My first EM was a chicago coin. That was an adventure as they did things differently than the other 3

i don't think you're missing out on anything. there's a reason their cheap

unfortunately, the artwork is usually the best feature.

unless you grew up in the em age, i can't see the point of owning one. very slow and boring imo.

If you played one of my machines you might think different. My machines are not some sick EM's from a route. All my Gottliebs get Orange dot Coils and are fine tuned, so very peppy. My Williams machines are as fast as any SS game.

If you played my 1976 Williams Space Odyssey with DC Flippers and Pop bumpers you might end up scratching your head as you see your ball hit the pop bumper and rocket on down thru the Outlane before you can say "Holy Sh..!!.

Heck, one game the ball hit the Pop Bumper and went so fast SDTM that the ball ricocheted in the trough without hitting any of the 2 switches as it was air born and ended up in the shooter lane basically giving me a free ball! Only happened once so far but wow!

That happened soon after a good wax job.

Ken

I've watched CL for months regarding EM pin prices. The lower price "less perfect" ones tend to come and go pretty fast in my area.

I've done business every so often with CL, both selling and buying. Sometimes sellers don't check their email very often. I have about 7 items in CL now, and I tend to check that particular email account only a few times a week simply because I'm tired of deleting the numerous scammer replies.

But yea, I really love the EM's for their game play. It's a bat, a ball and a target(s). Good fun.

Open back door, unplug jones plugs, remove bolts inside on bottom. Remove head from body. 5 minute job with coffee break.

LTG

EM's can drive you nuts trying to trouble shoot as 1 switch (there are literally hundreds) stuck can take weeks to find.

Took 2 months to figure out the problems on my 4 player Segasa Monaco.

BUT any true pinballer should own at least one. Its where it all started and there is nothing like the clink and clank of score reels and bells!

I bring an adjustable wrench.

1. Remove the pinball off the playfield. Remove the cash box.

2. Remove the jones plugs in the head, grasping them with BOTH hands and work them loose little by little because if one side pulls out crooked the Bakelite "plastic" plug will crack/break in half.

3. Remove the 4 bolts in the bottom of the head. Be careful the head doesn't tip over and fall forward onto the playfield glass. Stuff the Jones plugs into the cabinet. Put the 4 bolts and washers into the cash box.

4. Place the head on the floor just behind the machine. Lift the back of the machine and put the edge of it on the top of the head, lifting the rear legs off the floor. Remove the rear legs. Put the 4 acorn bolts into the cash box.

5. Right the machine up and stand it on its back. Remove the front legs. Put the bolts in the cash box.

You probably already knew some of this but I just wanted to include it.

My favorite part of my 4 player EM is when you start the game all the reels resetting and making noise. Like something cool is about to begin.

Well, I'm not genius but it's how we used to do it a long time ago in the shop.. but I'll take the compliment. thanks.

I guess there's benefits to being an old fuddy duddy.