(Topic ID: 7326)

Think I've finnaly landed my first pin. Incredible Hulk (Restoration in progress

By Whridlsoncestood

12 years ago


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There are 313 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.
#301 12 years ago

WOW man!! Are you sure you never done this type of thing before? Looks professional, and you have inspired me to do my HS! When you did your touch-ups on the playfield did you use brushes to do the black lines around the inserts? Machine looks new, and dont know about slow playing game, in the videos looks to be decently fast enough. Man, if I did this on my dining room table my 3 year old would have gotten hold of alot of parts and hid them, etc. I'am inspired big time. GREAT JOB!!! Impressed!!!

#302 12 years ago

Yes. Fine brushes 5/0 I believe. When you start getting good bounces off the pops with fresh clearcoat it can really start whipping around. Good luck with your high speed!

#303 12 years ago

This looks amazing. I have a Super Mario that could use a little bit of this magic, but that will have to wait until I have a spare pin to play. My second pin will probably be the fixer though and this thread will be very helpful and inspirational. Excellent work!

2 months later
#304 11 years ago

Two things that you probably already know. On the YouTube Vid I notice that you are missing the sounds from one of your boards. The Pascal solution is the PI-1FX4. ... or if your sound board is working, might just need to hook it up.

Also -- apron decals for the Hulk are available at www.pinballrescue.net . Lee is a great guy and will help you out.

5 months later
#305 11 years ago

not bringing up an old beat dog (or fu''ing the dog as people could say) but i'd like to thank whrilsoncestood for all his documentation on his process. the clear coat was also very helpful. if anyone has any future plan of pf restoration this is a great thread to reference. here is my finalized DH personal clear coated swap with some help from this great gentleman;

P1010861(1).JPGP1010861(1).JPG

#306 11 years ago

Wow, can't believe I missed this thread.

Amazing work!

Gonna start reading from page 1....

#307 11 years ago

Looks great balls. Glad I could help. Just saw this thread get resurrected and I miss this game now after reading everything. At least I know its in good hands with pinballerchef. It's amazing how quickly a year goes by and how much more I have learned/progressed. My new high speed project gets torn down next weekend and I'm going even deeper with this one, with lots of nice extras.

8 months later
#308 10 years ago

How has the spray can clear held up for you so far?

1 week later
#309 10 years ago

Your thread motivated me to pick up my own hulk today, hoping it comes out as nice as yours.

#310 10 years ago

Contact pinballchef on here. He's the owner now. Last I talked to him at Allentown its still looking great.

#311 10 years ago

Thanks....got really lucky turned out this game had really already been restored and then just put into storage for several years, once I got it put back together it fired up almost instantly....however using a lot of your guide on the World Cup I am working on restoring.

#312 10 years ago

Hope you don't mind me asking a few questions in this old thread. I'm restoring a Haunted House, so your restore is very similar to mine. Great job by the way.

1) How did you remove the wire guides on the playfield? Did they tear out a lot of wood? I'm afraid to yank mine out because I read they have cleats like I see on yours.

2) How did you get that rusty soda-encrusted metal piece under the lock bar so clean!? Mine looks exactly like that and I have no idea how to tackle that thing.

3) What did you use to polish your various metal parts? So shiny...

4) When I took out my posts, they were tight and pulled up some wood as you said yours did. Did you bother repairing that stuff or just paint it up and cover it with new posts? I was thinking I could get by with touching it up.

#313 10 years ago

Slide something strong and thin under the wire guides and pry them up a bit at a time on each end. Should come out clean enough. Also out a credit card under the area of te playfield you are prying against so you don't ruin anymore playfield art.

Lockdown bar receiver took lots of elbow grease. Sandpaper and wet sanding. Start with something like 400 and see how it does and then step up from there until you are wetsanding with 1000 or higher. Or you can get a bench buffing wheel with a wire wheel on one side and a nice buffing pad on the other. Saves time and effort but costs more if you don't have the buffer already. Buffer works great on metal rails and lockdown bars. Any big metal parts really.

All the metal posts and nuts can either be polished by hand with steelwool/neverdull(metal polish that comes in a silver container. Its full of cotton that is soaked in something kind of oily. Works great on chrome parts). It takes forever that way. Or 2 other options if you have a the buffer from the lockdown bar you an use that. Be careful. Hold parts with pliers as they will get hot. Or the third and easiest is buy a vibratory tumbler and tumble them with crushes walnut shell. Tumbler sold where gun supplies can be had or horror freight. Crushes walnut you can get for cheap at the pet store. Its used for lizard tank bedding.

As far as pulling up wood with the posts if its all hidden under the post you can just touch it up and be happy with it. If its a big chunk of wood I would fill it in with strong wood filler epoxy or something like dolphin glaze

Hope that answers all your questions. I have a couple other threads on a high speed and a xenon that would have a lot more info that may help you. About to start a Pinbot thread next for one in into now.

Jim.

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