(Topic ID: 149792)

There's one more Wizard Blocks

By Compy

8 years ago


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  • 348 posts
  • 97 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Chosen_S
  • Topic is favorited by 139 Pinsiders

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#154 7 years ago

How are you doing your overlay, specifically, how are you getting it to stick to the playfield? I'm doing an EM project, and have had the cab/head done with vinyl decals. I prepped the surface with paint and then wiped it down with IPA. The edges are peeling in several spots. I don't want that to happen to the playfield and the clearcoat's job is not to fight edge curling.

So basically, where are you having your Mylar printed and can they cut out areas? Have you don't any tests on it?

#156 7 years ago

I recreated all of the art in AutoCAD. The paint had been dry to a while, but I'm wondering if the satin finish hurt the situation. It's not the best pic, but the close up one is of one of the edges on the head a few days later. Pretty bummed about that. I have cleared the PF with a few layers, filled all cupped and shrunken inserts, and have it sanded to 600 grit. It's ready for an overlay. I actually printed two, one as a test so I could practice cutting holes and seeing if you could sand at all (nope, ink comes off even with 2500 grit) before applying clear. I'm clearing a Taxi right now as well, so I just stuck the test piece to a board, cleaned with naphtha, and cleared it last night. I expect to need another coat or two, but today I will see how it looks. It's a long story, but I can actually have the place that printed these do another one and now cut out all of the holes, but if the material can't be sanded and hold onto clearcoat, what's the point? Pretty nervous to check on it today.

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#158 7 years ago

Mine is an ORAJET Rapid Air. ORAFOL is the manufacturer. Looking on their web page, there are many different part numbers in that line. The picture I have of the label (the back side) doesn't have a part number to know exactly which one I have.

On their page, in the FAQ, they say glossy finish wiped down with IPA is what they suggest. I did exactly that and am not satisfied with what's happening.

Where are you having your stuff printed? I wouldn't be opposed to trying again, as much as I really don't want to. PM me if you'd prefer.

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2 months later
#188 7 years ago
Quoted from Compy:

When tin snips just aren't enough to get a good cut on ramp mechs...
» YouTube video

We have an OMAX at work. It's a lot of fun to watch it work. No G-jobs though.

#208 7 years ago

While it is not very sexy, the sheetmetal module of CAD programs is very important. You design in 3D and then switch to the flat pattern for the version that gets sent to the waterjet.

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