Built an Addams Family completely from parts this winter/spring. NLA parts that were handmade include wire harnesses, ball guides / metal parts, light insert panel, and Thing box. Have all guides and various metal brackets in CAD if anyone else needs them. Laser cut from 18ga stainless by HeMan40 (Dino) then bent with small brakes and hand tools. Converted to a “Stern type” slide out playfield system. Makes for easy access to playfield assemblies. Was able to make the backboard taller and added some graphics. Went with Fliptronics 2 and PBL flipper optos. Running ColorDmd LED display. Populated a bare sound board by Victor T (Dumbass) Most excellent Greed Book Mod from Mark Jenison. Pioneer backbox speakers w/Lpad.
Painted and decaled the head/cab using Phoenix Arcade silkscreened art. PinGraffix for PinBlades. Local dude, Bill Webb built the sweet bare cab. Bare head from Virtua Pin.
Used playfield from Pinside Market that was listed as touched up and cleared by HEP. Looks really sweet! Color scheme for jets/buttons inspired by HEP Thank you, Chris, for hosting your wonderful gallery of past restorations.
Thanks to Dankme (Steve) for drawing the lampboard PCB’s. Thanks to Greg Bitz for measuring guides/brackets on his TAF. Thanks to Gatordad (Mike C) for allowing me to check some of his TAF wiring. I have some really great pinball buds.
Wouldn’t be possible without these most excellent parts suppliers- Pinball Life, Marco, MantisA, PSPA, PBR, PPS, P Inc, Classic A, SF, MrP, Arakissun, Pinball Basement, Comet, Titan. Thank you IPDB for archiving parts lists, manuals, ROM images.
More pics on my OneDrive https://tinyurl.com/58um9vza (disregard date stamps)
Wally

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Yep, battery pack.

Thanks for all the nice comments, everyone. Love every aspect of this hobby from deciphering parts lists, looking for parts, to sanding/bondo/painting, making parts that aren't available, building wire harnesses, bending metal, everything. To top things off, along the way I’ve met some really good pinheads.
Wally

Thanks, Chris.
I was able to fit a 7 in x 19 3/8 in. backboard. Clearance from the top of the backboard to the cab neck ended up to be 3/16 in. The width is smaller than the original because it has to clear the slide and pivot support bracket when the playfield is in the fully raised position resting against the head. (backboard dips below horizontal)
Wally

Hey Yak
I uploaded pics to my OneDrive https://tinyurl.com/58um9vza (disregard date stamps)
Plays fast!
Wally

Thanks, Terry.
Also CC. Running with Eric P's CCC code. Sweet pin!

Hey ZZZ
Found a haunted mansion wallpaper graphic on line. My son, Gregg, color matched to the PinGraffix side blades and overlaid with a "grunge effect". Then printed on photo paper at Staples and glued to backboard with 3M spray adhesive.
Wally

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Yep, no problem. Happy to share.

Around $6000.
I generally start looking for parts years in advance of starting so I run into some really sweet deals. I was able to find some parts on Pinside Market, Ebay and from pinball buds (who know that I’m looking for parts) at very reasonable prices. For example, the used power transformer was $80, and a complete wiring harness (from a WPC-95 pin) was $50. Also, I bought quite a few "show specials" at Expo and TPF. Great deals are always found at the pinball shows. Marco always runs a free shipping incentive at shows. TAF topper was $100 at Expo. The Pinball Life open house during Expo is a great time to buy parts. I was able to find some parts from a TAF that was in a fire. (They still smelled like smoke) Somewhere around $1000 in parts if new for $300. Took time but everything cleaned up well. Pics are the bookcase, before and after. I restore many used parts like the coin door (the TAF one was recovered from a flood), pop mechs, sling mechs, flipper mechs and targets. If you want all new parts and you want them tomorrow, costs will be substantially higher. Could double easily. The only parts that I always buy new are the playfield (or pro restored original), anything plastic, glass, SS side rails and cab/head decals. New parts are sweet but taking old beat up ones and bringing then back to life is really rewarding.
I enjoy sanding/bondo/painting/applying decals to the cab and head myself. I find building wire harnesses a nice diversion. I also built the Sound Board and MPU from parts. Gotta’ love the smell of soldering in the morning.
Wally

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If you are referring to the bookcase shims, they are available at Marco. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10759

Wally

Gotta' stop over for a beer and check it out.

IJ would be sweet.

So far, I have met my desired results by tumbling or hand polishing. Have not had anything plated or powder coated yet. Sometimes after removing major rust I will lightly clear coat or paint. (the TAF bookcase brkt was lightly cleared) I have also become a big fan of Eastwood Silver Cad. Before and after on a used Thing Kickout.
Wally

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Hey Eli
MDF from Home Depot. I cut to size either on a table saw (sometimes with just a circular saw/guide) HD will cut to size if you wait. I drill holes with Forstner bits. Seems like I get cleaner holes with these. 5/8 in for GI and 7/8 in for flash. I have a couple of larger hole saws(McMaster) for the top-center hole to clear backbox lock/key . Always drill with a backer board so the MDF doesn't get damaged when the bit goes through. I just use standard metal sockets. For cutouts, I drill holes in the corners and finish up with my Bosch jigsaw. (really like that thing) Spray with Semi-Gloss White. Attached are pics of the TAF insert panel and some of the insert panel build when I did Scared Stiff. I have never had to make the cutout on the bottom of the panel like some originals. My straight across cut bottom always clears the ColorDMD.
Wally

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